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Classic Norwegian redneck repair.

Just the wear of the chain,sprockets and tensioner and associated timing shift. Plus the fact you have another failure point with the tensioner and when a chain is let wear badly they generally start contacting cases and producing metal. Then of course there is ease of maintenance. I was also surprised that I needed to crank the idle down 200 rpm on my engine when I fitted the gears which i assumed meant that there was less friction but it may have been timing related, dont know. Once you have a quality set of gears they should outlast the engine with regular oil and filter changes so there's no real wear related issues to consider. maintenance is easier in that if you want to remove the oil pump or cam retainer flange your not messing about with tensioners and pulling chains etc you just pull the retaining nut for what your working on etc. The only real advantages I can see for a chain is cost and maybe they are better able to handle debris in the engine oil if your a slack servicer or you have a significant internal failure the causes contamination. There's a reason high end engines use gear drives. You wont find an F1 of MotoGP engine using chain driven cams or chain driven anything really. Like gas turbine engine accessory drive gearboxes, no chains. Ferrari Ducati V4 Desmosedici Ciao

Back in February my brother came out for The One Show and despite it being a bit "brisk" we got out for a little ride. It was his first time on a V11 Sport. He didn't mind it. Fast forward to yesterday... He and a buddy went down to SC (not too far away) and snagged this thing. It wasn't expensive. Apparently the owner got some Italian lust and had to have it. Kept the bike inside the house. The master of the house (wife) wasn't too please with the new mistress and made him sell it. Very low miles. Engine paint is, of course, not good. The rest looks nice. Some sweet bits on those models. Olins and carbon everywhere! Not bad for not being green.

hard to beat the aerostitch. when i make my little complaints, they fall into the category of "1st world problems", or "jaded biker problems", as its truly great. i have the same setup, and its just as old or older, though a little worse for the heavy wear its received over the years. did the rebuild on the pants from aerostitch... came out perfect. And i agree, the easy on/off of the pants is a huge plus compared to most other pants i've owned. But As alluded to above in earlier post, on the jacket the overhaul didn't work out so well. the new velcro after just a year or two is now barely better than the old worn out velcro they replaced, the zipper wants to slither down if i have the jacket a little unzipped for airflow, the sleeve ends won't stay tight any more when i'm cold wx riding due to the those zippers also creeping, and that kind of thing. And as also mentioned, packing that stuff around on the airlines is a drag... its bulky. fine from home, but for travel its a pain. ya, i know, its good protection or lightweight... can't really have both. but i'm looking. i'll probably just end up using it forever, but am forever on the prowl for the perfect.... everything!

Nice! Welldone, footgoose! I realize Kane's thread has drifted from "Will an Centauro connecting plate fit a V11?" (nope) to "What are the driveline offsets of various SpineFrames and how is this accomplished?" I found another indication that the V11 driveline (at least my RedFrame) is offset right only ~5mm: The front engine mounts from the front subframe are asymmetric by about that amount (views from the front): Right: Left:

this frame is inverted, bracket is the smaller one top center right docc edit/ 15 November 2020 to restore image:

Well Dave, my brother tries to one-up me all the time too. Looks like he got a nice one. I think there are more V11 Sport/LeMans in houses and displays than any other motorcycle. Before I bought Brad's Greenie, I tried to get one that was in an Atlanta McMansion that was displayed next to a full grand piano. They are beautiful works of art aesthetically, well the Greenies are.

Yes its "my" bike ...lol...and she looks just as nice today as she did when Scud took the picture, with a funny yellow shock and spring he added later...Happy to say!

While it is apart is ideal. You will not be disappointed in a better shock. Yet, riding it a season with the Sachs will give you the joy of knowing the improvement!

The bracket is in place on mine, and the bike was so stock and poorly cared for when I bought it I have to believe it is stock.

Yes, it was. The guy apparently wasn't the most tech savvy so the ad was a little, ahem, sparse. And half in Spanish. I'm sure that threw off plenty of buyers. Not like there are a lot of buyers for a V11 Sport and not during these restrictions.

Oh yes, it's a tight space. I replaced mine yesterday. Took down the left coil, sprayed the tap with silicone spray, but still very hard to press the pipe over the tap due to tight space. An angled 19mm ring wrench worked literally as my helping hand:) A small tire lever could be a proper tool to make the necessary pressure to enter the stiff pipe.

The wife and I are also Aerostitch fans. I started wearing them when I was given a hand-me-down two piece suit from a good friend. I wore that suit for a long time, until I replaced it with a second hand-me-down suit, again from my friend. Then we bought one for the wife brand new from them (also two piece). Finally, I retired the hand-me-down suit and bought a brand spanking new one of my own. That was years ago and the suit is still working great. Every so often we wash in some more waterproofing to restore the waterproof nature of the suit. I was never a fan of the one piece version. My friend tried a one piece version, it seemed to work for him. But I prefer the two piece version. I find that even when I am wearing both jacket and pants I like to use suspenders with the pants vs having them zipped to the jacket. It improves air flow and makes moving around easier.

A buddy of mine had an old Aerostitch jacket he had owned for a long time w/a zipper problem . He sent it in for repairs & it came back no charge !

As from 2003 MG used the satin finish. But there are early 2003 models with the bad wrinkle paint. (Now I see Docc was way ahead of me with his answer )

I’ve got a call in to him. Will try again tomorrow and report back once I know.

I can not say enough good things about my Aerostitch Roadcrafter 2 piece (zips together as one) The only negative is it's too bulky to remove while riding, and store it on the bike... but you don't need to. First, it's a long ride (weekend) touring kit. Day rides for me take a Vanson leather and a rain shell packed, if required. Under the Stitch is whatever keeps you warm when it's cold. When it's warm weather I wear easy pull on shorts and an Under Armor tee. Good sox and boots. Vents zipped open and you're laughing. You kinda have to see the procedure to get how easy it is when you stop 'for lunch'. Unzip the jacket, unzip the pants - all the way down to the boot, zip down the other leg and step out. 30 seconds. Back on is about a minute and a half. I carry appropriate emergency layers. Easy to keep warm enough. Never been too hot, but for a few times doing the stoplight thing in a Tennessee tourist town on a very hot mid day misfortune. (keep moving=keep cool) Note: it's NOT black. Water resistance.... I got my suit 15 years ago used, on ebay for $400. Barely used and made in 1999. It has never been back to the factory for cleaning and re-waterproofing (a service they provide) and I'm not sure it needs it even now. Three years ago I rode 350 miles in mostly rain, much of it quite heavy. Such a downpour at times I thought the Guzzi might stagger for lack of oxygen, but she didn't (snorkels!?). I got a small amount of water in the crotch, and a bit down the neck, front and back side. Frankly, I was amazed at the protection. If I'd duck taped my neck to the jacket I would have been spared the upper leaks. The pant leakage was due, I think to the massive amount of water I was sitting in. My Alpinestar waterproof boots and gloves were overcome by the onslaught. Boots got a C- , gloves got an FF. I sold all my other crap and will stick with 'Stitch and Vanson. Oh yes... I had a fall-and-slide past autumn. Only had on the jacket. I took a hit on the right arm and shoulder. The arm was good in a few days. The jacket armor and shell worked quite well... the blue jeans and knee skin, not so much.

Oh great, now I need to drink enough to erase that Yellow image from my mind.... the dainese “sport master goretex” I tried last month (and returned) had some great sleeve and neck seal features that I was very fond of. Probably makes it legitimately water proof, inasmuch as such a thing exists. And great armor, and other great features. But very high price, the stormtrooper look, and imperfect fit for me resulted in a return.

From all I can see, the bracket welded to the underside of the RedFrame is centered to the spine. The welded bracket is shown in the early workshop manual, but not on the dimensioned drawing! @Pressureangle , is this frame-to-engine/gearbox plate present on the 1100 Sport-i ? Here is a reference image of the connecting plate added to my Sport. So hard to even capture an image, let alone sneak in a roll of toweling . . . (View looking up and forward from behind the right throttle body, both injectors and linkage rod visible):

40 or 45 a few months ago. I forgot. call him, they're nice folks.

He replied that he meant junk steel/aluminum gears, not Joe's gears.

An easy way to measure center to center , measure the inside edge of one hole to the outside hole of the other hole . Both holes must be the same diameter for this to work .

Wow, first two SpineRaiders from extreme opposite coasts of the country! Bravo, guys!!!

I'm supposed to be taking delivery on my "new" V11 LeMans in two weeks. I'd like to have it in hand before ordering, so will let you know then - thanks!

Following up on my quest to use Cali hubs with alloy rims to get spoked wheels... it can be done! The front wheel is straight forward except for the bearing thicknesses and depending on model year of v11, the axle as well. On my 2000 sport (with a 20mm axle) the total width between bearing surfaces narrowed by 5mm per side (even though the bearings themselves vary by only 2mm each) requiring a 5mm spacer on the left and a 20mm on the right (15mm was old spacer size). The california hub is laced true to center to an Excel 3.5 x 17 anodized rim. My stock brakes fit fine. The rear requires a bit more. The california hub is deeper on both sides requiring not only spacers but the hub outer rim on the shaft side needs to be shaved by 4mm to allow the final drive unit to fully seat with clearance. Rotate on a shaft and grind away! (ok, that sounds more obscene than intended). I used the cush drive plate from my bike since it had longer splines. The Cali part would have worked, but why not have stronger mating surfaces, eh? The hub gets laced with the 4.25 x 17 Excel rim's centerline at 67mm from the hub's disc mounting surface. This matches the stock 4.5" rims outer centerline (the 5.5 may be different). A 23mm spacer is required for the disc side and a 10mm spacer for outboard on the shaft side. Aside from being moved inboard by 10mm (no issues with alignment noted) nothing gets done to the final drive unit. Again, my stock brake worked without mods. These are very common supermotard sized rims so no problem getting tubes. Banke Performance laced the rims for me and was very easy to work with... it also didn't hurt that he is a guzzi guy and seemed interested in the idea. And the cost: $1250 for everything. I bought the hubs off of Ebay. Bearings were all of 20 bucks. Spacers were cut down from T3 units. The rims and spokes were from Banke Performance. Banke tells me though that Excel rims are going up in price for 2012.