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Geez, I forgot it was on the TO checklist...don't get old, it sucks. Thank you! Art

Well , you didn't loan yours out either . I wasn't there to see how it happened and I got everything back but the Hg . Did you keep the Flintstone mobile dialed in ?

A buddy sent me the CL listing on this Sport a few days ago. I read through it and had to reply, "This V11 Sport totally checks out." Then I realized it is JBBenson's. So yeah, "This V11 Sport totally checks out."

Nearly fifteen years and 118 pages, I am impressed by how many of the older images still display (many don't). Every now and then, I enjoy scrolling through and looking at some awesome images that have been shared on this thread. Like this contributor, Daniel Kalal, who hasn't been on here for over ten years, but this image (on page 2) is just very moving, IMO:

After you have cleaned trottlebody's and AFC screws, I woud take OF the trottle linkage, and check TPS,,, like 3 times more, 157mv,, It's V imortant... so I've learned. Then I use a feeler gauge 0.05mm behind each trottle stop screws, and then each screws around a quartof a turn.. Adjust the trottle linkage with the white knob so it fits perfect on the trottle body. She can easily have misfires on one side if this is not correct. My Greenie did. This doesn't cost anything,, ah well a few beer's. IPA is of big help. Plugwires 5000ohm. Basicly every elec connnection needs TLC. It does feel V good when she is behaving again, Yu'l find it, cheers tom.

Well after all the anxiety it was very easy as posted earlier by another member. Support fitting in left hand and push back hose towards fitting while fiddling with the hose collar (again with left hand. Not hard) and pushing off. It was extremely easy......

Nice work, and sharing docc! The only datapoint which is troubling me is that despite all that you’ve wisely chronicled, I’ve run several odyssey’s and (older) westco’s On my bikes for around 10yrs at a whack, never with an issue, and always on a battery-tender (deltran) brand charger (all winter, always, and at times in the summer). No issues. Too many batteries that lasted too long for me to ignore. Now, I never killed one and had to bring it back, I don’t think.... so maybe the Deltran (batterytender brand) is ok for that. I’ll check the float voltage at least, and see how it compares to what you’ve shared here... I’ve got a shorai I inherited (I will not dive into that here) which would just drop off on voltage, but then come back alive after a brief hit with the li-ion charger, despite being told that it should be toast. Took it out of the bike and it now powers my home clay pigeon shooter, very nicely! Great covid activity [emoji41]

Well, yeah.. a guy would have to have a clue if he's using them.

Yessir! It is referenced in the Tank-off Maintenance Checklist, bullet (>) #19:

The Workshop Manual states the vacuum should be within 5mm Hg (mercury) as I recall. Again, no pure specification, only the maximum allowable variance. I am not sure if your gauges are already calibrated to display mm Hg? (Seems my Sport pulls the Hg columns into the 50s at around 2500-3000 rpm. Oh, and gstallons is right on about sucking the mercury. Chopping the throttle from 3000 would be a bad idea!

No matter the value, they should just be the same.

Just a heads up. I have the material now, but the water jet shop (and about all manufacturing around here) is still closed.

Yes Chuck, it's a nice system on the Daytona engine and makes valve timing easy. I dont think timings Johns issue though. I'm not sure the Australia with the fairings is a great suburban low speed proposition, I think these things need to be a naked to be an all rounder as they naturally run hot. All Guzzi's struggle with overheating at low speeds even the Grisso's. I remember riding my 2 valver home through the suburbs when I thought it was failing a drive shaft uni so I avoided any more than about 40kph and left it in 2nd or third gear for about 3 or 4 klms. It got pretty hot which surprised me at the time. Ciao

You need a degree wheel and a dial indicator. The top sprockets are vernier, and valve timing can be adjusted by them.

Hi John, I noticed your comments on overheating. I don't want to second guess the expertise on WG, but I hope that you are aware that a common cause of overheating is timing. Retarded ignition, injection, or valve timing cause overheating faster than lean mixture. The engine will run smoothly but sluggishly, and the headers will glow red in short order.

It only takes a minute Grim, if you’re concerned about your neighbours you’re probably a ‘good neighbour’ yourself and hopefully they’ll understand? You could knock on and explain the reasons for the ensuing italian music. Incidentally, I think i have a few intake boots spare- if you’d like i could post a couple down to you?

Don't worry , there will always be a third , then a fourth .

Okay, seriously, yes: synch the throttle bodies "at some rpm." Doesn't have to be 3k, but definitely not at idle unless that is where you expect to operate the engine most of the time. I tried synching at 4,500 once and the Sport spit my (former) voltmeter off onto the floor . . .

Do it now while they can't come over . . .

Heh, well we've been blowing that up pretty much from the start! Yet, in the spirit of the topic, here is the first image, posted oy Orson in July 2005 of his Tenni in it's natural habitat (the Alps!):

You might want to sit down for this. iPhone 11 Unretouched.

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Why does everyone else's bike look PERFECT ?