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Nice today, 14c. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

Oh, bugger. It's idling over 1000 on the tacho, haven't checked in GuzziDiag. Might have to go over this again.... Have I invented a new procedure, BTW? 😉 Thanks for all your help. In case anyone else is in despair and reads this, here are some things of note.... Things that were compounding the problem: Jammed up white knob and sync rod thread would not allow easy adjustment to get rod on the ball joint without putting something else out of adjustment. Fast idle had somehow crept in after setting idle screws, nudging the right throttle more open before attaching rod, make sure it doesn't nip up the throttle when tightening back up. Possible exhaust leaks. An ECU map that was richer than standard, making the left cylinder (which nearly closed) too rich at idle, therefore sooty. Possible air leaks around perished rubber intake. P.S. I saved myself £90 as well, which is how much a Guzzi specialist had quoted for a TPS reset, and I wouldn't have had the satisfaction of knowing I had done it myself, and knowing how everything was set.

You bet! And relays like this get sold as "35 amp" relays. It is totally misleading. One of the reasons the Best Relay thread is so long. The other was how steep that learning curve was for me. At this point, it would not shock me that what Grim is wrestling with is not a single source problem, but a combination of additive issues. Once sorted, these challenges often lack the satisfaction of a particular "Eureka!" moment, yet leaves us with an exceedingly well sorted V11 . . . Hang in there, Grim! You're on the right track and doing a lot of things right!

You are no doubt the first to have to deal with the fast idle thingy..

Is this hypothetical?

Maybe it was the other forum, but I recall some long threads about one cylinder misfires that were maddening. It was Tonti bikes, but perhaps the same applies here. On my '85 LeMans, I had a weak cylinder- don't recall left or right but to make the long story short, the positive feed to the coils came in on one terminal, then there was a short jumper wire from there to the second coil. A significant number of bikes had that jumper fail, which killed the secondary one. A simple replacement of the jumper wire fixed the problem, but it was a bitch to discover. If your coils are set up this way, a simple measure of resistance in the jumper wire might tell the story and make for a simple fix.

No the Stucchi. The Stucchi is the best, it fills in the hole in the middle of the torque curve and maintains the top end and is supported,robust and doesnt crack. Here's a link worth reading again from Brad Black....http://www.bikeboy.org/v11sport.html Plenty of other Guzzi tuning stuff of Brads to read as well. This was what I made my cross over decision on all those years ago and it proved to be right I think. Ciao

I was well prepared for releasing it, not letting it interfere with the TPS, making sure it was well out the way... Just didn't quite realise that tightening it back up would wind it on a tiny amount behind my back...

Let us know when you are completely satisfied with your repairs .

Great news, Grim! (Note that gstallons corrected the 450 mV to 540 mV. Likely give you a more stable, albeit higher, idle.)

See above, I got it running pretty well, I used a modified version of your idea, so thank you very much for the inspiration and guidance.

Ok, I have had some success. I swapped back in a Siemens relay, but noticed no difference. I wound the throttles back, disconnected choke and made sure I still had 157mv, yes I did. I went for 1 turn out on the newly cleaned air screws. I took off, and put back on the exhaust, I have this slight issue where the gaskets seem too thick, resulting in the crossover pipes not meeting the little nubs on the headers, but i can't compress them any more with the head nuts. Still, it all went back together. I took off the throttle sync rod and wire brushed and oiled the slider mechanism. ( I am using a locknut on it) I was thinking, I know what I (rightly or wrongly) want here, I want the right hand TB idle value to start off at 450mv. I did that. Ok got some calipers in between the right hand throttle stop plates, got 4.7mm. I went to the left and wound the screw out to achieve 4.7mm between the throttle stop plates. I then connected the left side of the sync rod, and hovered over the bike and carefully wound the nylon knob till the left hand side would pop on the ball joint without moving the idle off 450mv. So I definitely had the idle at 450mv and at least the same exact gap on the right, and the rod had not altered the idle yet. Started her up and... Running nearly balanced from the get go! Got it hot and wound it up to 3k, slightly too much air on the right, adjust the knob to perfect sync. Back to idle and... Slightly lumpy, very slightly. I'm going to live with that and not tidy it up with the air screws. Thank you one and all, thanks for the help

Primary for normal coils that I'm used to on Tontis and the like are usually a lot higher 5 Ohms, Guzzis don't need really fast saturation time AFAIK. There is still the perrenial threads about Dynas burning out with 3.0 Ohm coils on the older bikes However perhaps these coils are a different design but with no information I haven't a clue. Seems though a lot of modern coils seem to have lower primaries.

@WeegieYeah, we could take this back over to the (lengthy) Best Relay thread, but in short the NO contact of most micro relays (Panasonic included) is 20 amps. The NO contact on our #5 carries the injectors, coils, and fuel pump coming in at some 22.5 amps. Check how hot yours gets as an indication how well it's working. @Grim Those compression numbers seem fine. Certainly symmetrical. If your battery went flat that quickly, perhaps getting it well conditioned and swapping the relays (3<->5) is worth the small fuss. Otherwise, I still ponder about grooming your exhaust, getting all lined up and fully seated at every joint. The last time I had to set my air screws very much differently, I found the intake vacuum taps had loosed up enough to cause trouble.

The high idle follower was flapping in the breeze, and the right throttle stop was way out (someone had been here before and was only using the left for idle) it initially read 84mv. When I got 157mv the butterfly was sticking in the bore. I feel I definitely got that bit right.

Gotta love it when an OP drifts his own thread just to recover some perspective. We're not giving up on your left cylinder, Grim!

It will get easy after the 30th X. We give opinions and advice . It is up to you to diagnose and do the correct repairs . Have a seat and evaluate what you think is the problem .

At least we know why you're mad. Some people are mad, and no one knows why . . .

Ahhh , you haven't lived until something expensive hits the ground . Dwell meters , DVOMs , timing lights into the fan .

A priest , a minister and a rabbit walk into a blood bank , the rabbit says " I think I might be a type o " ?

Two-smokers are not often a delight to hear. But that maniac genius Allen Millyard created a 5 cyl 1250cc H3 Kawi. On the boil, danged if it does not sound like an F1 motor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a90677Qci3g