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Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaert seems to recall the early version ecus have something different about their baro sensor. He's going to get back to me when he has access to his info.Hopefully this just means for the moment the baro pressure is set to a default. The other odd thing about my ecu is it's loaded with a 2002 LeMans map. I've owned this bike for 10 years so pre Guzzidiag days so how this has gotten in there I dont know. Any thoughts anyone? Maybe this is why the baro info isnt displayed because that function of the early ecu isnt compatible with the later maps. Hopefully Paul can shed some light. I reset the CO trim to Zero from -12 and the bike seemed to idle fine on the V11 map. Starting's a bit ropey though. So out I went for a ride around the block. It didnt run that well to be honest, I mean it got me around the block a few times but you wouldn't go out for a ride like that. It did allow me to check the oil pressure though with the temp oil pressure gauge though with the oil a bit warmer and 60 psi @ 2500 rpm at around 52 deg C oil temp on 15W-40 which will be adequate. I believe that figure will turn out to be the relief valve setting. If I feel the need for more pressure I'll go to a 10W-50 but I'm OK with 60psi max. I came back and decided to load the map Gritman had sent me for his V11/Daytona and see what that was like. Out I went and it was way better, not really great but you could go for a ride at a pinch with this map although truthfully it will need to be a lot better than this. Gritmans bike has pod filters and I'm not sure what crossover so it was never going to be perfect. The gearbox shifted nicely and the bike went well in all other areas so now its just about the tuning. Hopefully I'll be able to get some help with that. Now Then. How it was when I bought it 10 years ago Ciao

Yeah, baby!

Here's the reading on the Odyssey on the Norton, as I mentioned I don't get it on the charger. So apparently this battery use to be used on one of my dad's BMWs and was switched out when it wouldn't reliably turn the starter. With the Norton that's not important because I stand on one of the starting devices... I keep the Guzzi on the charger all the time. So I pull the charger off and tested the voltage too. Normally I leave the charger on the 1amp setting. I'm sure this voltage reading is going to send @docc into a battery fueled rage. So now I put the Norton battery (12.90v) on the 6amp mode and charge it up and see what happens. Not sure what I'm going to do with the Guzzi battery as it obviously starts just fine. Now I am using the cheapest multimeter (free) possible so I don't know the accuracy of the reading. Let's see what happens...

I don't see any miles on that salvage bike. Not bad money, but too bad they are so disassembled with no TPS, no injectors, no linkage ball-end, missing fasteners. Let's remember that maxv11 still has his engine parts for sale . . .

Ok cool Thanks Jaap. EDIT......all good now thanks again. Ciao

I sold my V11 Sport, so now I'm selling all of this stuff. Discounts for bulk purchases! Best contact me through email: jessebenson(at)Mac(dot)com Omar’s Dirt Track Racing Fairing, Woodcraft clip-ons and mounting hardware: 200.00 + shipping Everybody wanted to know what fairing I had on the bike. Now, you can have it too! This fairing is solid fiberglass, not cheap flexible plastic. I had this painted to match the MG silver, it’s a perfect match. Has some nicks and scratches but I’ll bet your bike does too, right? Steel oil cooler mounts, LH and RH: 35.00 + shipping for the pair, will not split For some reason I have a second set, even though my OEM aluminum ones cracked and got replaced with steel a while ago. Have yours cracked yet? Don't worry, they will...!

Well done! That's a bike I'd like to own.

Hey, thanks Jaap! And thanks to LuckyPhil for this thread's continuity. Amazing-amazing V10 RedFrame!

Let me check all that.

Yeah, man, that is an excellent question. This is the regulator I use (OEM type). I replaced my first two at about 30,000 miles/ 50.000 km. Number two got a robust ground strap to the timing chest. I bought number three about a year after I changed the melty, charred 30 amp charging fuse to the Tyco circuit breaker and switched to High Current OMRON relays and for years after adopting this, admittedly meticulous, conditioning regimen. Not only has the replacement regulator been in the spares pile two years/ 10,000 miles beyond expecting to change it, my OdysseyPC545s are lasting longer. The regulator case ground is critical. Making sure your 30 amp charging fuse is not melting/ charring is, as well (while the "fix" for that is a bit more involved). My hypothesis that routinely conditioning the Odyssey to spec may relieve stress on the rather nefarious charging system/regulator seems to be paying off for me. [Full disclosure, I also have groomed and treated my entire wiring harness including the Battery Terminals and Ignition Switch with Caig DeOxit®, built terminal junctions to reduce the terminal stack on the battery, and installed LED headlight/taillight/rear signals. I still think that the ground strap, 30 amp fuse solution, and the routine battery conditioning have made the major difference.] Asking our weedy regulator/rectifier to bring an Odyssey up from below 12.65 volts is liking your stripper girlfriend to shovel snow in her work clothes. She'll do it, but she an;t gonna be happy . . .

FYI....This is a great place to rent a bike in Rome..Francesco the owner also has several drop off /pick- up locations around Italy so usually I fly into Rome..get a bike and ride up north to the Alps and later drop it in the North, or from Rome ride down south to Sicily and drop the bike there. He also gives tours all over Italy if you like..usually I just get a bike with a GPS and just take off on my own plan. I have found his prices extremely reasonable and he is very helpful by cell phone if you have any problems or questions while on the road..they have seveal packages you can see on their website..I'm not connected to them in any way other than have gotten great service there so just passing it on! Riccardo runs the Rome office"His claim to fame is being a Moto Guzzi rider and having been the President of the Italian Motorcyclist Coordination movement for 20 years. Riccardo will look after you when you reach our Rome office and solve any kind of issue you may have during your rental." http://www.cimt.it/aboutus.htm ciao!

A high idle on a V11 is vastly better than a low one. V11 idle adjustment is "Step 6" . . .

But I sneaked out and put a few miles on the Ballabio today! I think the engine is breaking in/loosening up, as the idle RPM has risen to 1400 or so. Gotta look in the manual and see how to lower it.

We could use some global drying here in Raintown USA. Something like 34 days straight. Had three days of sun, but it just could not stand it and began raining again.

Here's a place for us to help each other out on this important but oft-overlooked step. I am no expert, which might make me a good person to try to explain it. I've only done it a few times myself, and each time, it has noticeably improved the handling of the bike. Hopefully, some more experienced suspension guys will be along to add to the knowledge base. To me, the best explanation is in the Ohlins manuals, which are available for download in the Fileshare section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1427 The key is that you are looking for differences between pairs of measurements to be in the right ranges. The actual distances you measure are meaningless. The only thing that matters are the differences between fixed points under different load conditions. You need three sets of measurements on the front and rear: 1) Wheels up 2) Bike on the ground without rider (balanced, not on sidestand) 3) Bike with rider (again balanced, not on sidestand) So, you have measurements: Front: F1, F2, F3 Rear: R1, R2, R3 Here's how I took the measurements: I haven't seen any specs for the Marzocchi/Sachs setup, but I assume sag should be about the same as the Ohlins. The target sag ranges are as follows: Free sag, without rider: Front 25-30mm (this is F1-F2) Rear 5-10mm (this is R1-R2) Race sag, with rider (and gear): Front 35-48mm (this is F1-F2) Rear 30-40mm (this is R1-R2) Perhaps we can use this thread to share specs and help each other figure out if we need different springs, or can get ideal set-up by adjusting pre-load. I'll start off with the work I just did today.