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Just following up... I took my bike for it's MOT (uk annual test) today, not sure what I was expecting, but it feels like a new bike. The sheer amount of tinkering has (I think) beaten everything into submission. No misfire on either cyclinder at idle No hot idle cough or splutter Smooth pull all the way to redline Can hold at part throttle (anywhere) and it sits happily and smoothly Drinks all the fuel.... So, all in all, doing all the tune up stuff, again and again until you get it right, makes a wonderful difference... Had an entire family stop and marvel as I rolled past, kids shouting nice bike, I put this down to my wonderful rattle can paint job.....

An Italian bike specialist 100 kms from where I live: http://hdeb.nl/ He is quite the grease monkey, but he really knows what he's doing

Nothing wrong with a rattle can. All the work is in the prep. And... sometimes they just want you to act like you care.

That 's a sharp looking shop ! [docc copied image location.]

Thanks docc.I've read the post many times and it got me to by the Mistral crossover.I really appreciate research like that,but I didn't have the same experience,maybe because I've done some higher compression-porting-job and also with a slightly different camshaft.I tried it with a Power commander but it seems I need something more full flowing.So the Stucchi actually works better for me and I guess I should just use that instead.But then I keep remembering the Staintune on my 1100 sport which was just perfect.It was more responsive and there was tons of torque from very low revs and up compared to both the Stucchi and Mistral.

This makes me feel like the Sport at 90mph in third gear, "Bitch on the Run!"

Room booked. Yamaha Bill will return as well!

I believe I see swooshbro has joined us! Hope to see you and the Café Sport at the S'xteenth South'n SpineRaid just over the mountains, bud!

Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaert seems to recall the early version ecus have something different about their baro sensor. He's going to get back to me when he has access to his info.Hopefully this just means for the moment the baro pressure is set to a default. The other odd thing about my ecu is it's loaded with a 2002 LeMans map. I've owned this bike for 10 years so pre Guzzidiag days so how this has gotten in there I dont know. Any thoughts anyone? Maybe this is why the baro info isnt displayed because that function of the early ecu isnt compatible with the later maps. Hopefully Paul can shed some light. I reset the CO trim to Zero from -12 and the bike seemed to idle fine on the V11 map. Starting's a bit ropey though. So out I went for a ride around the block. It didnt run that well to be honest, I mean it got me around the block a few times but you wouldn't go out for a ride like that. It did allow me to check the oil pressure though with the temp oil pressure gauge though with the oil a bit warmer and 60 psi @ 2500 rpm at around 52 deg C oil temp on 15W-40 which will be adequate. I believe that figure will turn out to be the relief valve setting. If I feel the need for more pressure I'll go to a 10W-50 but I'm OK with 60psi max. I came back and decided to load the map Gritman had sent me for his V11/Daytona and see what that was like. Out I went and it was way better, not really great but you could go for a ride at a pinch with this map although truthfully it will need to be a lot better than this. Gritmans bike has pod filters and I'm not sure what crossover so it was never going to be perfect. The gearbox shifted nicely and the bike went well in all other areas so now its just about the tuning. Hopefully I'll be able to get some help with that. Now Then. How it was when I bought it 10 years ago Ciao

See above, I got it running pretty well, I used a modified version of your idea, so thank you very much for the inspiration and guidance.

Ok, I have had some success. I swapped back in a Siemens relay, but noticed no difference. I wound the throttles back, disconnected choke and made sure I still had 157mv, yes I did. I went for 1 turn out on the newly cleaned air screws. I took off, and put back on the exhaust, I have this slight issue where the gaskets seem too thick, resulting in the crossover pipes not meeting the little nubs on the headers, but i can't compress them any more with the head nuts. Still, it all went back together. I took off the throttle sync rod and wire brushed and oiled the slider mechanism. ( I am using a locknut on it) I was thinking, I know what I (rightly or wrongly) want here, I want the right hand TB idle value to start off at 450mv. I did that. Ok got some calipers in between the right hand throttle stop plates, got 4.7mm. I went to the left and wound the screw out to achieve 4.7mm between the throttle stop plates. I then connected the left side of the sync rod, and hovered over the bike and carefully wound the nylon knob till the left hand side would pop on the ball joint without moving the idle off 450mv. So I definitely had the idle at 450mv and at least the same exact gap on the right, and the rod had not altered the idle yet. Started her up and... Running nearly balanced from the get go! Got it hot and wound it up to 3k, slightly too much air on the right, adjust the knob to perfect sync. Back to idle and... Slightly lumpy, very slightly. I'm going to live with that and not tidy it up with the air screws. Thank you one and all, thanks for the help