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A Sport 1100, Centaro, and Daytona crossover will not fit a V11 or vise versa. With the Sport 1100 crossover mounting in the same support location as the V11 the headers are about 5in. (125mm) short. I just made this mistake on Ebay due to a bad listing and am trying to resolve it.

Uhh, maybe just buying their airline tickets would be cheaper?

This man , I started listening to yesterday and can't get enough !

Tried the speed bleeders many years ago, good idea in theory. After a time it is common for bleed nipples to become tight and difficult to remove, the problem with these is they seem to be weaker than standard nipples and shear off easily. This is probably due to the larger hole needed to accommodate the valve. Once sheared off difficult to remove as the hardened valve spindle makes it difficult to drill accurately for an eezy out stud remover.

I had a 'C' kit RS in a while back and had Phil Arnold come up from Tassie to assist with degreeing in the cams as it had never run right. It gave us kittens and while we knew we'd got it timed spot on it still wasn't right. The owner took it to a bloke whose name I know but can't remember and he pharted about and ended up graphing both camshafts and it turned out that this 'C' kit bike, that had never been apart, had come from the factory with one 'C' kit camshaft and one 'A' kit camshaft! No wonder we couldn't get it to run right! As Chuck says of bikes of that period the only reason they bothered assembling them at the factory was to make sure you got the right number of parts. No guarantee they'd be the right parts though.........

Today I finished the new motor transplant and took it for a nice long spin! Fresh oil lines and a sweet new roper plate

Probably the Moto Spezial 'V' sump. From memory it deleted the oil cooler but it did have the pick-up cast in to the bottom of the 'V' so exposing it was pretty difficult. When the CARC bike's were launched Guzzi actually said that the sump had been re-designed to prevent pick up exposure, (Although it was hidden way down in some press release. Heaven forbid they admit that the earlier design was shite!). The later system the pick up, although it still comes down from above, sits slightly recessed in the casting and has a cast in weir behind it to discourage the rearward slop of oil. It seems to work as I haven't heard of anybody having the 'Flickering oil light of death' on a CARC bike.

Ok, I'm pretty sure the statute of limitations are up. Wayne posted about this last winter, so I'm no longer sworn to secrecy. When the Daytona/Centauro etc. engines were certified, Guzzi, in their inimitable way screwed up and used the wrong chip. It was way too expensive to go through the certification process again, so they sent correct chips to Will on the west coast, Wayne Orwig on the east coast, and Karsten (from memory) in Germany. These were well known Guzzi Guys with electronic experience. They modified the chips and sent them all over the world. Naturally the epa, et al would have blown a gasket if known. (whistling) Will had a Daytona RS that he used to improve Guzzi's baseline chip, so I would expect he would know what you need. I would imagine Wayne could still burn you one, too. Probably it is still not general knowledge, though..

Yeah it's a Daytona RS lump 16M ECU, docc

I’d like to thank all that replied, the noise I’m hearing does appear to go away after a couple of quick clutch lever “flicks”. It’s hard to tell if it quiets down when increasing revs slightly as overall clatter, exhaust tone, and my poor hearing discrimination blend all together. Thanks for reducing my anxiety level down to near normal. Now to go for a ride, it’s 70f and sunny.

WOW, Thank you everyone for your input. I appreciate knowing the different ways folks tackle the task of brake fluid replacement. On a couple of my old /6 BMW's I've had the master cylinders freeze up from just sitting, be it Guzzi or BMW, none of these parts are cheap (when comparing to auto parts) so I'm trying to do a better job of doing regular fluid changes. Phil, thanks for the info on the fluid tester, and yet another tool I didn't know that I needed. Great approach to knowing the condition of the fluid, rather then guessing. I will look into getting one. Love this form ,a real wealth of knowledge!

I'm sure all these things are great, and I might sound like and stubborn old git (I'm actually 37, is there a youngest Guzzi rider trophy? ) but I have never had a problem with a loop of clear tube with one end in a glass bottle of old brake fluid; just pump out the old stuff and the air bubbles, it goes out into the bottle and the bubbles rise up, can't get sucked back in.

I am a religious changer of all hydraulic fluids. Every 2 years minimum. My first newish BMW got the factory annual treatment for awhile, per service spec, and that's what got me started. That and my vintage bike obsession. With most of the old bikes I acquired, it was apparently a 'thing' to never ever ever ever ever change it. After 20+ years it (and accumulating moisture) turns into something I call mashed potatoes( in the slave). Not pretty. Not safe. I do it the old way... pump - squirt. Some contortion involved, but it gets done. Everything works better with new fluid. Makes me feel better too.

I believe you are in this case:) The primary reason to change out brake fluid ( for normal road use) is moisture content which causes reduced boiling point and component corrosion. 2% is the maximum recommended contamination and a few years ago I was shocked to find my 2 year old car which I had owned from new was at 4% already. I then checked every vehicle I owned (7) and the only one that was ok was the 1 year old car. The rest got changed out. Invest in one of these, I checked the calibration and they are accurate. Cheaper and easier than changing brake components in the long run. The other advantage of using the pressure bleeder is that you dont need to stroke the master cylinder piston right down to a point in the bore where there may be corrosion damage that will ruin the seal. Especially a consideration in older vehicles that havent had regular fluid changes. This is just for a look at the tester. I dont know the efficacy of doing the test in conductive containers but you get the drift. I also did the cal with water but I used a measured qty of water and brake fluid so the percentages were correct and the tool was spot on. Ciao

Yes Chuck, I tend to agree. I must say the RAM clutch on the new engine is quiet as a mouse, engaged or disengaged. Ciao

Ok, had to listen. Other than the dog wanting some attention.. sounds normal to me.

Forget about these things and buy one of these....https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/power-bleeders-power-bleeders-domestic-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-import-bleeder-kits-power-bleeders-single-adapter-bleeder-kit-power-bleeders-classic-car-and-marine-kits I bought one to do fluid changes on the cars and its brilliant. Screw the cap onto the fluid reservoir and pump up the unit to 15 psi or so and open the bleed nipple. System empty or full air or no air doesnt matter now more lever pumping etc they just push the air out. Vacuum bleeders are also a bit useless as well, I have one of those and I'll never use it again. After you've used one of these you wont go back to the old way. Ciao

The twin clutch plate unit on my old engine would rattle at idle just like yours and and the quick clutch "flick" would reduce it about 50% Its just allowing the intermediate plate and the friction plate splines to unalign themselves and take up some of the backlash in the splines. If your bike isn't affected by the recall then you dont have an issue in that regard. It's easy to get focused on a normal noise that you haven't noticed before,happens to me sometimes. Your bike sound like its way above 750 rpm to me, might just be the recording and of course TB balance makes a difference in clutch rattle Ciao

New pc545 ....5-13-20. 12.63v put on charge .... 5-13-20......13.2 v at 5:15 pm took charger off 5-13-20......12.9 v at 9pm 5-14-20 .....12.8 v at 9 am 5-15-20 ......12.8 v at 4 pm

No need to go the hassle /expense of dual plugs on the V11 Tomchri. (As an aside - physical improvement of the combustion chamber. Mike Rich’s MRM HiComp matching beveled pistons have a flatter/wider dome - lessening impedance to flame front & matched slanted squish turbulence). Returning to the main point of ignition - & more fundamentally open to the possibilities of building a better mousetrap... as you know dual plugs improve ignition by having two sources. There’s less acceptance however that a single ignition source cannot also offer vast improvements. I’ve not stopped at the Multi-Sparks (brilliant as they’ve been) - I’ve recently been further experimenting with pre-chamber TJI combustion. Do a little research on Turbulent Jet Ignition - as first introduced by Mercedes in F1 a few years ago. Mercedes was recognised as having dominated with more power & increased economy. Initially thought to be cheating - then subsequently adopted by the other teams like Ferrari & Renault you’ll find there are other easier options to increase the combustion chamber flame speed on V11’s. As a side-note, unfortunately my earlier suggestion of the Brisk LR12ZS Multi-Sparks may have aggravated some old raw nerves as gstallons indicated. However, to be even handed I’ve used the stock NGK - they work. But I’ve also tried Brisk Multisparks - and my V11 absolutely performs better. If anyone has used both - then fair enough, go ahead and agree or disagree as befits the results. I’d previously read plenty on Beemer forums with sea-dogs opining Brisk’s are snake-oil until I just paid my monies to find out the merits of the vigorous back & forth discussions. Glad I did. Not all combustion sparks are equal! ⚡️⚡️