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I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...

Are you sure you are on the compression stroke of the engine at TDC?

The single biggest improvement you can make to the shift action of your V11 is to lengthen the shift lever arm and incorporate a new eye end mount hole 12mm ctr to ctr from the original upper hole. Shortens up the shift action to Japanese bike standards and gives the gearbox return spring greater leverage over the shift lever. It also makes the shift action a little bit stiffer which means you need a little more load on the lever before it shifts gear which makes for a faster cleaner shift. This is the shift selector. The area that is blued rides over the pins on the shift drum during the lever return after a shift. It usually has a rough finish and often doesn't bear across the full face of the pin and causes the shifter to hang up on return. Draw file it smooth and blue it to check for correct contact and if it isn't right dress it so it is. Do the other face on the left of photo as well of course.This arm always has a bend in it due to the way its stamped from a flat sheet. Carefully rework it so its flat and straight without any twists and polish the faces with some fine emory. The shifter mechanism stop can allow over travel of the mechanism. This one has had pads welded to the stop faces and dressed back to prevent this happening. Don't ever be tempted to adjust the large eccentric on the shifter cover with it fitted to the bike. It is a very sensitive adjustment that controls shifter travel and over travel and needs to be on the bench to set up correctly. It wont solve your shifting woes alone so leave it alone when on the bike. Note the detent roller, it often doesn't ride correctly in the detents. Remove and bend the roller arm until it locates correctly. Note the different covers, the later type on the left with the shift selector arm return limit adjustable eccentric and the older type on the right with the fixed roll pin. Set up the eccentric with about 0.030" clearance to the shift arm at its closest point in the travel. This later unit also has the extra banana shaped support plate. Guzzi sell a mod kit for the earlier bikes. A close up of the return limit eccentric adjuster on the later covers. The return spring can be installed the wrong way. Make sure when fitted the spring isn't contacting the cover, if it is remove it and install the other way. On the bench set up and ready to install. The V11 shifts like a Japanese bike now, short travel, slick shifts with or without using the clutch and no return binding. This is the mod kit which comes with new cover with eccentric adjuster, new selector wheel pins with the ability to fit the banana support link and from memory a new shift selector arm and spring and new centering spring. Note the shifter input arm and stop assembly in the lower right hand of the photo. The pin you can see under the shifter wheel with the spring arms around it is the large eccentric adjuster which controls the travel of the shift mechanism and provides the stops in both directions. As mentioned earlier adjust it on the bench only, its very sensitive and governs how far the mechanism moves the gear selector dog to engage the gears. If its a long way out you can have a situation where it moves the gear to a fully engaged position and then pulls it partially out of engagement during the shift and under engagement in the other direction. Ciao

Got it It was a balance problem Twinmaxx, Techmate, or electronic balancers are shit, Got Carbmate or tune and it showed they were out. Dont waste your money on electronic buy ananalog they are much more accurate in my opinion. Running like a scalded dog.

I've never heard of valve lash increasing after TDC. Yet, I have never actually checked the clearance anywhere but TDC. The only mechanical explanation I can think of is the cam is not perfectly degreed.

You can be on TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke. For the later, the valves will be open, the former has them closed. Typically, if you can't get a feeller cage in, it means you're on the exhaust stroke and need to take another 360 degree turn. If you still don't have gap, that sound like a problem. One hint I use, I mark the fin on the alternator with a marker at 12 o'clock on the right side TDC. One full turn and past to 3 o'clock will be the left side TDC. I always check it with the timing marks but it's much easier to do that when watching the marked fin.

And the fact that the valve clearance may increase when the piston leaves the TDC is wrong? Or maybe it's okay and I'm worried for nothing

No , you want the piston at TopDeadCenter . when the piston is at it's maximum travel , then adjust the clearance of both valves . Good luck

"If" the camshaft were wearing , or any of these components were wearing , the clearance would be opening instead of closing . The only time clearance closes , is when the valve stem height goes "up" or gets taller . As when valve seat or valve face wears . Don't worry about this for now . Please make sure you are taking these measurements at TDC compression . Remove the spark plugs so you can rotate the engine . If you have a bike stand , get the bike up on the stand and put the transmission in high gear , use the wheel to rotate the engine to get the piston on TDC . One TDC will give you valve overlap , the other will give you what you are looking for . Adjust these valves and go to the other side and repeat the procedure . When you are finished , Take a break , then recheck your work .

Alrighty now.. I'm beginning to count parts. Here's what I have: Kelly White Paul Beingessner Brian McReynolds (2) Kevin Trapp Tommy Allison Phillip Larsen (2) Ian Griswold (2) gene stallons Tom Christiansen Kosta Suli Dave Swanson Nick Looijen Brian Boles Tim Scudder Jamin Horner Randy Minton James Ferrell

You are on the list. No money yet.. I'll email with exact charge including shipping.

Ok, you are doing it right. Unfortunately, if the clearance keeps closing up.. it sounds to me that the cam may be wearing. I don't know of any other cause for that to happen. Maybe someone else will come up with a reason I haven't thought of..

Best Wishes, Paul. Good luck with this.

I will never figure out running this important of a circuit through an ATC fuse . 2020 hindsight , I suppose ?

No, not mine. A customer's bike.

If needed I can make a vector file of this logo.

The Kid did his shop chair with some decals he had made for his Spot. I *think* it was done photographically.

Here's how mine looks now Pete I know, I know, took a work of art and butchered it Not sure, possibly the Classico & the Arturo were before it. Anyway as already said "Eye of the Beholder", personally I think they are things of beauty, compare them with Guzzi's offering of the time, the LM 1000 from which it's derived

It's a thing from another age. It's beauty is mainly from an engineering standpoint. It was I think the first reactive drive to ever be used on a Guzzi.