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Thanks for that. I honestly get a great deal of joy sharing ideas and helping people with problems. I do think though that the real talent is materialising the idea and developing it into a workable ,reliable piece of engineering. Ciao

Alrighty, now.. they are winging your way after a marathon packing and shipping session with Dorcia's help. Domestic should arrive in 2-3 days. Overseas should arrive eventually. From memory, the longest of the last batch was about 10 days. FWIW, USPS has never lost any that I've sent out so far, but I have tracking numbers if necessary. Whew! It's officially beer o'clock.

Closing this out with the requested info as the Ducati coils arrived today, all four of the coils tested are Marelli BAE 850 AK OEM (coils that are in the bike) Primary 0.60, 0.63 Ohm Secondary 3.172, 3.188 k Ohm Ducati Coils Primary 0.60, 0.59 Ohms Secondary 3.195, 3.168 k Ohm

TPS setting, etc. is similar to the V11s. These Instructions are very helpful: http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html I have used Guzzidag for this too. Unfortunately the Vintage is running very lean. The Cali is popping and stuttering as soon as the ambient temperatures are high e.g. 28- 30°C. I have tested various maps (one from Beetle - very rich and also useable for gasoline of bad quality I guess). I also worked together with Beard (Guzzidiag) and got one which is better than stock (but also lean) but this one did not work so well in another Vintage. All those maps switch off the lambda probe, so you have to set the CO-trim (possible with Guzzidiag). I ended up with a fine tuned mapping from DÄS Mototec (Germany) on a 15M ECU which solves all the problems (lean running, torque dip). This mapping was made for an airbox w/o snorkels and a BMC air filter but I have decided to keep the snorkles otherwise it is much too loud for the driver. The bike still delivers more torque than stock . Däs proposed to lower the CO-trim then (e.g -20 to -30). I was lucky to get an used 15M ECU (from a Ducati) for approx 100 Euro, the mapping costs around 200 Euro. Roland Däs develops all his maps on a dyno test bench for individually for your motorcycle (which is more expensive I guess) but I have never visited his shop. I have just sent him the ECU which is good enough for me.

My 'theory' on the RC and NC valve cover color is that they are the same, possibly left overs from the Rosso Mandello. I swiped the pics of these covers and tank from Surg's post. These were new or nearly new parts for the RM. The paint does fade though, on the alm, as evident on my '03 RC below.

Tinus89, you were right on the money! I took apart everything down to the springs, re-seated them and put it all together. With the clutch pulled in, I was able to rotate the shaft while the bike was in gear! I've since re-assembled everything and the bike is running now! Hopefully this'll be the last time in a while where I have to pull everything to get at the clutch.

I'm just sayin..

Wow! She’s-a-bella! If I were to have a second spine frame to compliment my Greenie, that bike would do it. The long frame, the Ohlin, and the RED! That bike is hot!

Dragging this up from the past, if anyone gets here looking for answers, the gear that sits on the worm drive, and also the connecting gear up to the odometer are identical in the Ducati ST2/ST4/900SS CEV speedo. The face looks like this: The trip button is also the same, so it's a good source of 3 spare parts!

So yeah, as has been noted, and to expand on Pete's comment "So which is 'Best'? That is entirely up to you and how you are built, assembled and ride. " ... they're all similar enough to maybe just pay attn to the faults we know of that you'd like to avoid. Like the single plate alloy flywheel models ... unless the repair has been done. Avoid the '02 and early '03 (carryovers) with the bubble-up/flaking motor paint, unless you want to fix it. The early red frames have a quirk of the occasional transmission case crack, but there's a preventative for that. All other nits and fiddles are more or less common to all of them and are easily seen to. I say 'easily' with the very high regard I have for V11 LeMans.com and the folks here who make it easy for me. The only real difference to any of them - to me - is between long and short frames, and that difference is handling. Not a huge difference, but it's there. And as Chuck said "03 and later are the best sorted from the factory."

There is no specific workshop manual for the Vintage, but these will work: Workshop Manuals http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_california_en_de_ne.pdf http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_california_update_en_de_ne.pdf http://www.guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/Moteur1100_102005_Atelier(USA).pdf ... the CalVin has the Breva engine with a different alternator, gearbox, etc. Owner´s Manuals & Wiring Diagrams http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/owners_manual_california-vintage_2006-01_it-en-fr-de.pdf http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/owners_manual_california-vintage-aquila-nera_2009-09_it-en-fr-de.pdf http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/owners_manual_california-vintage-wiring-diagram_2006-01_it-en-fr-de.pdf http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_California_Vintage.gif Parts Lists http://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/CaliforniaVintage_2006-2007_112007_PL(GB).pdf http://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/CaliforniaVintage_2006-2008_082011_PL(GB).pdf http://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/CaliforniaVintage_2006-2011_052012_PL(F).pdf https://www.stein-dinse.biz/download/GU079.pdf http://www.motoguzzicalifornia.com/ ... and maybe some of my videos might be useful too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjpaIdMLrRU&list=PL3U2TKTfHX8amjJuLr8yBtUxXUeO6duTT

Hi Tinus, I can send you the ones from Beetle and Beard (I have asked for this) for the 15RC ECUs. Those maps were made for the original exhaust system. Remember to save the orignal one and set the CO-trim to "0 %" as soon as you use a mapping with the lambda probe switched off. First steps: - Check if the spark plugs are really connected corretly (double ingnition) - mine were not! - Clean the throttle bodies and the air bleed screws and their ducts - TPS check, setting + throttle bodies sync In general: Luigi did not make a good job when mounting mine. Grease was missing everywhere and it seems that the previous owner trusted his dealer.

They may have faded from the heat, but funny enough my Mandello Rosso has that as well. The porkchops do the same (but less), and the tank and seat cover stay nice and red. It almost seems like the paint on alu parts does not hold as well as on the plastic parts.

docc, I did check the input hub, and it seems to have not loosed at all. Lucky Phil, I have SD-TEC plates in it, and one of the issues I had was I put the friction plates in backwards, so the clutch wasn't engaging at all.

I had a look for your original thread on the idea and mfg of the very first one Phil. Would have posted the link if I'd found it, to show the thought process behind it as well as a guide for those who missed out on one this time and may want to make their own. Thanks for coming up with the idea and sharing.

Looks like Stihl chainsaw orange. Why? The rest of the bike looks bloody great!

Best minute-and-forty-six-seconds of my whole day!

Should fit my Scura just fine then.😊 Thank you for the kind offer to reduce the price, but I insist on paying full regardless of condition. PM with shipping details to follow.

I'm not that familiar with ecu/efi or mechanics in general so I was reluctant to post, hoping that someone with more knowledge and insight might jump in; but I do own a CalVin and can give you some basics that may help you. The CalVin is basically a blend of 2 models, the chassis is like a California, but the engine ecu/efi is like a Breva 1100. You can apparently use guzzidiag on the CalVin in a similar fashion to the capabilities on the V11's; you don't get full access and control with it like you apparently do on a CARC bike. A factory defect that "all CalVins" ? shared, was the disintegrating fuel lines/pump assembly in the tank, one of the symptoms could be running out of gas at higher throttle levels as the fuel pressure leaks out inside the tank at higher levels, inform yourself and ensure that the fix has been done, lots of info on wildguzzi about it. Could the fuel line defect cause the pinging you are describing,,, possibly,,, I can get my CalVin to ping, if I'm a little lazy on my gearing, ie running the rpms too low, imho. They were known for lean mapping and running a bit hot, the 3rd muffler in the crossover is a bit of plug in the whole works, I'm in the process of replacing mine with an H pipe, fwiw. Dead batteries on CalVins, are usually caused by using the 55 watt driving lights, most guys swap them out for lower wattage or LED bulbs, I just make sure that I don't turn them on, I have no idea if their use could have contributed to your blown 30 amp fuse, idk. The ECU "should" be a 15RC, TPS measurements have to be taken with a voltmeter at the TPS connection, I used little copper wire jumper cables, but picked up a Caspers break out cable for future use. I think the proper TPS baseline and idle settings can be a somewhat fluid thing, but at this point it seems that a baseline setting of 150-157 mv and an idle setting of 485-500 mv should be in the right ball bark. Iirc. The consensus on the best tuneup guide seems to be this one http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html Beetle does have a map for the CalVin, and his improved tutorial on guzzidiag over on wildguzzi is the go to reference for any of this type of work, jmho. Like any tuneup on a guzzi, I like to start it with the valves adjusted and finish with the TB's or carbs sync'd. Good luck Kelly

All my bikes are red, even my green one.

Bob, the simple answer is that there is no simple answer. During the decade, (Roughly.) that the V11 was produced the motive unit, (Engine, clutch and gearbox/final drive.) changed barely at all apart from the use of a single plate clutch on some models. The main changes were a swap from open to closed loop engine management, a lengthening of the frame and later addition of extra bracing for the gearbox and most importantly changes to bodywork and suspension components. Apart from that pretty much everything else to my limited knowledge is cosmetic. So which is 'Best'? That is entirely up to you and how you are built, assembled and ride. Also you have to remember that the last V11 rolled off the production line over a decade ago. Unless you are very lucky any bike you buy is going to be far from perfect mechanically no matter what it's cosmetic condition. The 'Short' and 'Long' frames handle really quite differently. Different suspension options and riding positions/control choices make all of the different versions more or less desirable due to countless interacting factors. Asking which is *Best* when examined holistically is really a bit asinine. The question you need to ask is of yourself, and that should be "What do I want from this motorbike?" and from there start asking questions as to whether one or other model is the best starting point.

There are lots of little variations in the V11 family, and everyone has their favourite. Clip-ons vs handlebars, fairings vs naked, chin pad tank vs in-tank-fuel-pump, white face clocks vs black, silver engine vs matt black vs satin black, green vs silver vs red... You are going to have to make your own choice. They are all good.

Anyone interested in the difference externally anyway between the OEM Ohlins and the race Ohlins these are images of my 1198. FGRT803 Forks. Billet lowers and different damping adjustment,different internals. These are the real deal, albeit entry level "real deal". TTX rear shock, alloy body,high and low speed damping,mechanical preload adjuster and different internals. The silly part is that they werent that much dearer than the OEM Ohlins stuff 10 years ago. Track guys used to buy the base ( non Ohlins) model bike and buy the race spec Ohlins like these and be a couple of grand in front for a race or track bike after they sold the stock stuff.

...having owned a Scura with Ohlins, and now a Le Man's with Marzocchis, I can say they are both very good when properly set up. The Ohlins are maybe marginally more compliant over bumps while remaining firm under braking and cornering.

Guzzi spec Ohlins are the same quality as Ducati,Honda,Yamaha spec Ohlins. They are obviously better quality than the original equipment Guzzi suspension its just they arent really any better than the std late model sports bike suspension from the big Japanese 3 or 4. The Japanese and Ducati fitting them is more a marketing exercise than anything else as it aligns with their WSB's and as far as the V11 goes they are an upgrade. I've just mentioned in the past that the Ohlins obviously aren't bad units but forget all the hipe the Journo's and others go on about with the std spec Ohlins. If you're going to upgrade your suspension esp the shock dont bother waiting around for a good second hand Ohlins shock to appear on the market and pay a premium for it. You can buy better quality now cheaper. As far as the forks go apart from the ease of conversion from the std to Ohlins OEM for a V11 there are way,way better late model japanese oem forks around than the original oem Ohlins on the V11. Ciao

That would be a personal opinion . I do know I would like to have one with Ohlins suspension to see if they are all that . There is one thing I KNOW , every time I get near my bikes , I cannot see why these bikes are not in everyone's garage .

The best component on any Guzzi is V11 Sport candy apple green paint.

Some cracking stuff here, glorious I posted these up on the Pete's "Look what I found lying about looking sorry for itself" thread, but thought I'd put them up here too. It's not exactly a Tonti but sort of resembles one in spirit and is contemporary. First pic as it was after the refurb the solid discs warped and the pods were too long Second pic before I threw it and me into a wall, which rearranged the fairing somewhat Third is how it currently looks (never bothered replacing the fairing decals, which I should) I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap but I orignally got the pipes Cermakromed, which looked shit, then I had a rethink when I added the cast wheels, so the system went to black. Problem was because of the Cermakrome, the black never keyed properly and started to flake on the headers. By this point I was sick of the whole thing and just thought "sod it" I'll wrap them and its been that way ever since.

I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...

I have a feeling that one of the positives out of this will be renewed quest for sustainable and less polluting technology. I have to think we'll see lots more electrical vehicles once the economy kicks back in. I don't think people will want to go back to where we came from. Just a thought, I could be wrong.