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Found two very nice shift springs in my mailbox today. Now I just need a rainy weekend to install one of them. 5 weeks from CA to Sweden via customs isn't too bad with the planet being what it is right now. Thanks again, Scud.

I finally got around to looking at messages, emails, and PayPal. Most have paid already. Some have over paid. (!) Don't worry though.. I won't spend it on something frivolous.. it will go straight to beer. Thanks, again!

If you need to remove the tap docc I suggest removing the tank fitting and then separating the tap from the fitting in the vise. Maybe Chuck could mod a few for people at a reasonable cost. He's got the equipment to do a superior job to me and he'd do one in under an hour easy. Ciao

Often the way. Totally real world unrideable of course. Ciao

OEM Part Name: Fuse Block Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU01743030 Replacement Part Brand or Source: ATC & ATO available at Del City (see attached photo) $11 Part number or other identifier: "ATC & ATO Block - 8 way" Comments:. This is the exact OEM fuse block that Guzzi used in my 03 Le Mans

Some of you may be aware of my ongoing frustration with these things. Briefly I've had one that refused to close off and another that has leaked when in the open position. Time to investigate. I suspected that the issue was junk seals and it turned out I was correct. I carefully removed the crimped section of the aluminium operating knob so I could screw it off the body and remove the internal plunger. The seals were toast which was causing the leaking in the open position. Bearing in mind that this thing gets used once in a blue moon the seals shouldn't have an issue really. So seals removed measured up and left in fuel overnight. I also tested a seal from an elcheapo kit I bought at the local Aldi store for comparison. No idea what the Aldi seal is made of but it was almost an identical size to the original. The first image shows the two seals after 24 hours in fuel ( the originals hadn't seen fuel for a week or so) As you can see the original has swelled a lot, around 1 mm in dia. So if your manual tap is difficult to open and shut and needs pliers to do so here's your reason. Garbage non fuel compatible seals. My cheap control seal is fine and hasn't swelled at all. This sort of thing drives me nuts, to save pennies they use rubbish seals and to compound the issue they aren't replaceable.......until now,hopefully. The difference in the seal sizes is quite obvious after 24 hrs in fuel. So what we need is Viton or FKM seals which I suspect will need to be 10 mm ID X 2.4 mm CS. I'll confirm this soon. The problem is what to do now with the the tap and its lack of open stop since we have removed the crimped section from the knurled nut. The issue for me is the lack of equipment. I've got plenty of nice ideas but dont have a mill which would allow me to do it properly. What I came up with is in the following image. I drilled and tapped the plunger for a 4 mm grub screw that can be inserted into its hole through the tap outlet. This grub screw when installed now forms the down stop for the plunger internally by it striking the inner bottom edge of the outlet hole replacing the crimped section of the aluminium knurled nut. The only issue I had was that I drilled and tapped the plunger hole about 1 mm too high which caused issues when the tap was closed. I resolved this by opening up the throat of the outlet port up near the closed seal face. Downside? a reduction in outlet area but i doubt it would be an issue as the inlet and filter screen are smaller than the tap outlet spigot ID.Next time I'd drill and tap a 6mm access hole on the tap body opposite the outlet port and make the 4mm hole in the plunger all the way through. I'd then have a 4mm stainless grub screw with the stop end turned down to 2 mm and it would be accessed through the 6 mm body screw from the opposite side. This would be much neater and minimise the loss of outlet area. The 6 mm access screw hole would need to be sealed with some thread sealer but the tap could be easily pulled apart for seal replacement and servicing.Note here only 1 seal is fitted to the plunger. I give this idea to the greater Guzzi community and forego retiring in luxury on the Caribbean on the obvious fiscal benefits I could derive from patenting etc. Ciao

buon giorno, grazie per la mia ammissione . Mi presento, ho da poco acquistato dalla concessionaria Guzzi di Parma Guareschi la tanto attesa e sospirata V11 Tenni numero T0061. A breve provvederò al ritiro. sono felice possessore anche della Griso Tenni. buona strada a tutti.

also... the little switch is very sensitive to position and tightness of the bolts. Try loosening/re tightening them and be sure there's no bind anywhere. Often a slight adjustment will fix it.

Its a device to spike through wool bales to provide a lifting loop for loading and moving about. Ciao

Shoot, bud, we could'a tossed some stilettos on the grill . . .

Docc, you were a great host, I had a great time going to the Spineframe Raid. Your "interest" in savage weaponry, I am sure is quite normal, friend. Buddy. Very normal. You're a normal guy.

@docc: The most common types of gasoline in Germany: With Ethanol: Super 95 (up to 5 % Ethanol, 95 ROZ Octane) Super E10 (up to 10 % Ethanol, 95 ROZ Octane) Super Plus (up to 5 % Ethanol, 98 ROZ Octane) Without Ethanol: Premium gasoline (ROZ ≥ 100 Octane), e.g. Aral Ultimate, Shell V-Power Super Plus (or better) is preferred for Guzzis. Europe (Germany) ROZ/RON => „Research Oktanzahl/Researched Octane Number" according to DIN EN ISO 5164

Hi Jan, I somehow overlooked that map while I was searching my computer for a map to load on the Calvin. I will probably see my friend again this Saturday. If so I will try the CALI1100DZ_06.bin. But he is happy now. I think it is set to +3 on the CO trim but I will check again. He was riding it the last couple of days in 30C humid weather. He is running US grade super 93 octane which I think is equivalent to Euro 98.

To each their own, but to me that is hideous. And pretty F'ing unrideable..... Kinda a shame someone did that to a perfectly good Guzzi.

If I'd known this was going on, I would've never spent the night at your place.

Rolls Royce Piston Aero Engines - a designer remembers by AA Rubbra, liking your taste in reading Phil..........a lot. A great read, as are many in that series if you love engines

You can see this mapping on the diagram above. My CalVin should now perform similar to the red curve. Blue: New mapping + 1133 ccm, combustion chambers treatment, Mistral silencers, open airbox (no snorkles), BMC filter Red: New mapping + open airbox (no snorkles), BMC filter Green: Stock

Staintunes. Fortunately, came with the bike.

Well I've finally put this one to bed. Due to available sizes for Viton/FKM seals I eventually had to machine down the oring grooves on the piston to 10.2mm od from the std 10.5 and widen the grooves as well to take a slightly wider 2.4 mm seal from the std 10x2.0mm. Someone at home with a pedestal drill may be able to do this with a small file and some care. So as shown in the previous image I have slotted the piston and drilled the housing to accept a 4mm grub screw that is now the open stop. I've modified the piston oring grooves as previously outlined and used Viton/FKM seals of 9.8 x 2.4 mm which dont swell in fuel. Put it all together with blue loctite on the grub screw to lock and seal it and you have a tap that doesn't leak and works smoothly and very nicely. The whole issue is the original Nitrile seals swell in fuel and cause jamming of the piston/plunger. Nitrile seal swelling in fuel isnt an issue between 2 fixed immovable surfaces where it can actually assist sealing but in this situation it's horrible. My main concern is wrenching on the tap when trying to shut it off which is being transmitted through plastic mounted tank integral threaded inserts. Wreck one of these and the tank is scrap. So as usual the OEM has literally skimped pennies on the seals and made the tap in some cases useless.Nice design but looks like the accountants got involved. Ciao

I've done a search of those decal markings docc but cant align anything. Having said that my bike also has the original ecu reflashed somewhere between its manufacture and late 2010 maybe the decal is for that. cars usually have a decal applied after a recall. My bike had the transmission recall done but didnt need the rods. BTW I read the workscope and parts list for the recalls and they actually required the whole rod and bolts to be replaced. I thought it was just the rod bolts,but no rods as well. Ciao

Just be aware of my modified wiring . . .

Power is listed as "Adequate."

Jan, The Calvin that belonged to me that then went to a friend and then now to another friend has now been brought back to me for a complete tune up. I did the valve adjust and a TPS set to 157mV and idle and 3K rpm balance along with cleaning the throttle body bores and butterflies. I have loaded the Beard map you sent me last summer and the new owner is now riding it 80 miles back home. He rode it around the block a few times and seems happy so far, but I will report back with his feedback later this evening after more extensive testing.

novel idea to use pull rope to charge a battery.

Good find

Notably, the Rosso Corsa in footgoose's post () has had the troubling, failed tank decals removed and repainted in a solid red. Looks great! Also, worth repeating that a significant number of "early" 2003 models are 2002 "carry-overs" with the difficult, bubbling driveline paint. And it is not just the engine, but the entire driveline. @Calijackalbob , I am curious about the three V11 images in your original post. The first two are rather significantly modified or changed, and the third is a stock factory image of the 1999-2001 V11 Sport in silver (not Grrrrr-eeen ). Have you seen the Greenie in person? It is quite something to behold with one's own eyes. Yet, aren't they all?

Perhaps clutch plate clatter. Especially if it changes clutch in and out. And with the idle that low it is going to slap around more. if you hold the rpm up to around 1100 does the clatter quiet down?

How bad is this? I'd hate to listen to a V11 gearbox with a stethoscope at idle. That would be scary. Ciao

LOL.. nothing against Hondas as such, they are some of my favs like the V4 VFR800 98-01 model, but there are soooooooo many of them. Sort of takes the individual part out of it.

hello, nice bikes. the valve covers are very beautiful. where can i find them? I'd like to buy them.

40.000 yrs ago... the era of air-cooled V-twin pushrod engines

It seems entirely plausible the Neanderthal gene may be over represented in the Moto Guzzi population . . .

Believe me, I tried. The problem is this is an "ultralight" and has a max weight of 254 lbs by definition. I thought of a 650, inverted to get the thrust line in the correct place, dry sump, and limited to 3400 rpm.. but it was still too heavy. I'll use a half VW, or a Verner 3 cylinder radial. TBD.