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Opened a box from Italy. A fool and his money are soon parted.... now just need to determine if fitting them, and the new crossover, will be just the typical battle with the fitment, or if there are any special tricks or concerns with that charcoal canister/exhaust mount setup.

What sort of democracy can it be where it's official police procedure, taught at police schools, to kneele on a man's neck? On a man's neck who's hands are already tied up on his back and who's laying face down on the floor? And what sort of democracy can it be where the jurisdiction needs more then a week, if they ever will some day at all, to even react when people get killed by something like that? A policeman kills a citizen while three of his colleagues hold back the crowd so that the officer can eventually finish his job? And this for over 8 minutes? Enough time to smoke three cigarettes? I don't get it.

It's the kind of democracy that would elect Donald Trump.

If you look on the German forum for these things everyone seems to run 10W-60. The xxW number should always be as low as possible for a full synthetic oil. By that I mean a true group 4 oil. The only reason for a 20W-xx oil was in the days of mineral based oils which sheared down relatively quickly and the base 20W oil was insurance for those that didn't do oil changes. Full synthetics dont break down like that so a heavy base oil isn't necessary. For those that think a 0W-40 as an example is too thin have a think about this. At engine operating temperature say 90-100 deg C where the engine is designed to produce peak torque, in other words to be at maximum load the 0W-40 oil is around 1/3 the of viscosity that it is at room temperature. So the argument that its too thin doesn't stack up. It's still more viscous when cold than at operating temp and at operating temp its a 40 weight oil. I would run a -10W-40 full synthetic if they made such an oil. I've run my V11 on Mobil1 0W-40 for ten years with no seal leakage, no oil at all in the airbox, no oiling issues at all period. It also has adequate ZDDP levels of 1000ppm for flat tappet engines. You want to be aiming at ZDDP levels of 1000-1400ppm. More isn't necessarily better. For the Daytona I'm inclined to go heavier say a 10W-50 or 60 full synthetic only because they tend to run hot in traffic and could use the extra viscosity at idle to maintain oil pressure. A std Daytona/Centauro engine doesn't really in the real world put any more load on the critical load carrying components such as main and rod bearings than a 2 valve engine either. The power outputs of both are within reason pretty much the same So from my first hand experience and a little basic knowledge about oil I'd say for any of the old generation big block engines the choice would be a full group 4 synthetic in the 0W-40, 10/15W-50 or the 10W-60 depending on the ambient temps you ride in and traffic conditions. For the later 8 valve engines i'd go with the recommended 10W-60. Ciao

Sheep's a liar..

Who said it was official police procedure? Or that it was taught a police schools?

No need for C3 bearings with additional clearance docc. These are only generally used for high speed or conditions that generate higher bearing temps. Wheel bearings dont fit that criterior. Ciao

I found this white paper with some useful breakdowns, but may be manufacturer specific to a degree. https://www.astbearings.com/radial-ball-bearing-nomenclature-and-numbering-system.html

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Buddy , you ain't the only astonished man on this planet .

I wonder what to say, but am charging my battery and putting the GPS back on the Sport for a long anticipated ride. Keep on the side of good, friends.

Me, either. Saying how I really feel about what is going on might get me banned.

Vehicles involved in the recall campaign. This Recall Campaign involves the entire production of the following vehices: a)KR V11 SPORT connecting rod, spring drive and moveable hose:from frame number ZGUKR0000XM111112 to ZGUKR0000YM112130 b)KR and KS V11 SPORT spring drive and moveable hose: from frame number ZGUKR0000YM112131 to ZGUKR00001M114639 from ZGUKS00001M111111 to ZGUKS00001M111147 from ZGUKS00001M211111 to ZGUKS00001M211162 Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk

Second time the pin came out. I ordered the modification, see photo. Drilled a hol, put it in. Problem solved. It shifts better to, due the advantage of adjust. [emoji106] one happy biker. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk

I hope on here that oil threads are a bit calmer than on WG where everybody goes NUTS with illl informed opinions I had overheating on a HiCam which resulted in low oil pressure and I'm guessing, no more than that, that a combination of these engines running very hot in traffic and possibly the relief valve behaviour, it starts to leak around 50psi and yes most of them seem to do that, is contributing to the dropping pressure. At the time bike overheated, I was running a Motul 15/50 full synthetic and just wondered opinions regarding upping viscosity to a 20/50 or even 20/60 weight oil. That won't stop the overheating but might help allleviate the plummeting oil pressure. AFAIK the recommended weight is 20/50. Do some of the later bikes not run a 10/60? Really I'd rather run a lighter rather than a heavier viscosity but when my oil sump temp reached 120C the oil pressure had dropped to under 10psi although that was a circa 2k RPM At the moment it's just a thought, I'll probably try a 20/50 first. Anectodally I've also seen some people posting that changing oil vendors can even have a marked difference

For now I'm still running 20w50 dino in my round heads, I don't know if I want to tempt the oil leak gods by running a full synth in them just yet,lol ;~) But I'm running the recommended 10w60 synth in my Griso & CalVin, and planning to use it as well in my V11. I don't want to put words in his mouth, but iirc Chuck has shared the opinion that any bike worth taking care of is worth running 10w60 in it. I can definitely see the merits of quick full lubrication when cold with the 10w aspect,,, and the heavy durable 60w aspect when it gets real hot and the engine is working hard. If the seals, gaskets and breathing are up to it, I wouldn't hesitate to use 10w60 synth, Fwiw ymmv Kelly

Research Oktan Zahl (German) = Research Octane Number

I put a tiny little rear light on the back, to replace the small, but crappy light/bracket arrangement that I was never happy with. This Shin-Yo light is supposed to be fender mounted on the top, but I took a gamble on it fitting/being visible under the V11 rear...

Cash1000 & I with others about to set off on a cool Autumn morning.