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This is a long sad saga on how one person can be so stupid and how you should always listen to Chuck. I purchased a low mileage Australia 98 from Japan a few years back, HiCam engine and running gear identical to a Daytona RS As Winter was coming on apart from idling the bike to check as much as I could that all was in order the bike did no running. I purchased a Caruso pump and gear set to remove the "grenade with the pin pulled" oil pump and to a lesser degree the suspect OEM Aluminuim gears for the service shaft and oil pump drive, the OEM crank gear is steel. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and a dipstick temperature gauge. There were other things done along the way but they're not relevant. Come the next summer I took it out for a ride, the first thing I noticed was the low oil pressure on cold oil at idle, around 50-52 psi. The traffic getting out of town was particularly bad, with road works, diversions, queues and snarled up traffic. Just as I got by the worst of this I seen the oil pressure light come in. Went into panic mode looked at the pressure gauge somewhere between 5-10psi. Pulled off into a convenient car park adjacent to me, killed the engine and freewheeled to a stop. Checking the temperature it was in excess of 120C. Waited for well over an hour perhaps longer until the temperature dropped to around 60C and rode home via a backroad a cab driver told me about. On the ride home I was still dropping oil pressure and rising temperature. As I recall it was about 25psi when I got home, I cannot remember the temperature. Although a backroad with less traffic I was still limited to 30mph, so at no point did I really get the chance to get up speed and some real airflow around the engine. With the low pressure at idle I was convinced that the overheating and low pressure were linked and as the pressure was low from the outset thought I'd start there. The 2V bikes I'm used to will run cold idle circa 60-65+ psi. Cutting to the chase after pulling the bike apart several times, installing several pressure gauges, the OEM pump plus another Caruso pump, running multiple experiments swapping over all sorts of parts between my Sport engine and HiCam, dimensioning several bearings and journals (but not all) and about to strip it again. Lucky Phil stepped in and started to make suggestions on checks. These came to nothing BUT give me a far greater understanding of the engine architecture and I'm very grateful to him. Without his intervention I'd probably have had the engine apart (or in a skip). I also got a friend with another HiCam engined bike to install a gauge onto his and he saw 50psi cold idle. This took another interesting turn when Phil fired his blueprinted HiCam, as he had installed a stronger relief valve spring and obtained 105psi. This told me that the pump has more than enough capacity to support engine oil requirements when escaping via the normal engine bleeds & bearings BUT with the relief closed. When Phil then installed the standard spring, his pressure dropped to 50psi cold idle, so the culprit had to be the relief partially lifting early, that Chuck had told me about so long ago. I'm hazarding an "informed" guess here, but think with the large oil feed to the heads, not present on the 2V bikes to anything like the same degree, it doesn't take much lift from the relief for the system pressure to start bleeding down. Joe Caruso has been brilliant and invaluable during all this, providing me with a lot of pump data and insight. One of the facts made me go "WIDE EYED" was the HiCam oil flow from the pump, was the highest of all the bikes of this vintage. The pump gears are longer (all the pump gear diameters are the same) and spinning faster than the V11 or the MGS-01. So that's where I am now, I'm going to install a Setrab 13 row cooler, which involves shifting some components around & will hopefully improve the heat rejection avialable from the cooler. At the moment there is 15/50 full synth in the bike and if I still encounter rising temps the next move will be to step up to a 10/60 to see if the higher viscosity at elevated temperature will sustain the oil pressure. This was also Lucky Phil's suggestion and Paul Minnaert's on a Facebook Daytona page. I've still a ways to go though to complete the cooler install & here we're still under lockdown, so sometime, hopefully sooner rather than later, I'll be able to take it out and see what happens Just thought it might bring a little insight to those of you lucky enough to posess one of these wonderful machines. I'll update this as and when but it will be slow John

That's why the Goddess made Craftsman and Harbor Freight..

You need to carry a plug repair kit, but it's nice to know there's help out there. Ciao

Thanks john and a dullard you are not. I read your wiring post on the Sfida and was impressed. The 15M is from my limited knowledge of such thing a very similar electronic architecture to the 16M but is only half the size and has the flash ability so no need to burn chips etc. You can then simply email maps to people and they can download it via Guzzidiag in literally 15 seconds to your bike. Plus you can make changes directly to the mapping on your computer and then load the file to the ecu without burning chips etc. Once I've got my map fully sorted I'll be able to provide it freely to anyone that does the same project or has a need for the same ecu mapping combination. I've got to check the cold starting first. The other thing is that the 16M would be difficult to fit dimensionally under the V11 seat. The seat base comes very close to the stuff mounted under it and It keeps all the original wiring and ecu connectors etc. Much neater. I made a special long socket to deal with the oil pressure switch by welding and machining up 2 sockets. Along was too long and a std was too short so I made one in between. There's an image here somewhere. For the head feed my crank cases were under machined so as I mentioned you couldn't get a thin walled socket on the banjo head and an Open ender also had limited throw so it ended up a little under torqued. I pulled the fuel pump off and tied back the breather hose to achieve some added room and made up an open ended ring spanner and a 3/8 drive socket with the side cut out of it. It's still hard to torque up but it's doable now in situ. I'll post some tool images. So, the special oil pressure switch socket I made from a 22mm x 1/2 inch drive and a 3/8 drive socket machined and welded together to get the correct length. The other 2 are for the head feed line off the cases banjo. Note the high quality ring spanner I sacrificed ( inherited from someone) the cutout socket was one of my old AF Proto sockets in 11/16 which as a good fit on the banjo. I have no need for AF stuff anymore as I dont work on Boeings or any aircraft for that matter so I sacrifices it instead of one of my decent metric sockets. Still hurt though doing it to a Proto. I'm leaving the Oil pressure relief for now unless I have an issue or i get bored. 60 psi max is fine and as long as the hot idle is around 10 I'm happy as well. Keep up the good work John, I'll be interested to see how the cooler turns out. Ciao

So it's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've been doing stuff. Not "Chuck" type doing stuff but chipping away. Firstly I had a very minor oil weep to sort from the head oil feed banjo on the cases and replace the oil pressure switch where the gauge was fitted. The oil feed banjo was a real bastard to do and necessitated making 2 special tools. I hadn't really done it up tight enough due to the head being so close to one part of the cases you couldn't get a ring or socket on it and even an OE spanner had limited movement. Anyway finally sorted that and used my other special tool to re fit the oil pressure switch. The other issue was of course the fuel tap and I've covered sorting that elsewhere. Its now lovely to use and doesn't leak, hooray. I've got a new one on the way and I'll mod it as well. The biggest issue was the mapping and I spent many hours getting up to speed on Guzzidiag including reading every post on the Guzzi.de forum going back 9 years where Paul Daytona and Meinolf and Beard the Wizard behind diag along with Paul live. This is the home of Guzzidiag and there's a ton of info there. I'm amazed that Paul and Beard got the first iteration up and running in a few months, impressive. With my rudimentary understanding of the system my thoughts were to obtain a .bin file from a Centauro which has a 16M ecu and simply transfer the mapping info into the 15M. Gritman in England you may remember did the same engine swap and kindly sent me his map and I tried that. It didn't run that well and from the fuel map 3D it looked very rich. It ran better than the std V11 map but wasn't ride-able except around the block. I hadn't seen a std Centi map at this point so I had nothing to compare with. At the same time thanks to audiomick one of the mods at Guzzi.de and a fellow Aussie living in Germany I was put in touch to Karsten who also had some Centi .bin files and generously sent them to me. I now also had a couple of enhanced Centi bins to compare. All this is extremely useful if you actually want to learn and see whats safe to do. It gives you known references. I also had to buy a brand new ECU as the original looks like it had a failed baro sensor. It worked ok but I suspect it had reverted to a default baro setting. So today I loaded the new bin with the Centi mapping ( which has different load and rpm break points) into the new ecu and fired it up. A little ropey to begin with until I got the balancing and idle sorted and then took it for a ride. Straight away it worked really nicely, only complaint was very minor popping on the overrun. I tweaked the CO up a little from 0 and got that eliminated and it runs and rides like a champ. So time to put some miles on it and see whats what. Big thanks Paul, audiomick and Karsten for the assistance as well as Beard for Guzzidiag and the guys that helped it evolve into what it is today. It's a really good tool and in my case has been totally faultless to use. Ciao

I purchased this bike 13 years ago from Ken Johnson at Atlas Cycle in Tulsa, Oklahoma just before Ken retired and sold the business. Ken told me that it had been on display at the shop for many years. The bike hadn't been licensed for the road since 1977. All of the tinware retains its original paint. The frame and other black bits were re-painted, and the rusty hardware was cadmium plated. I tore the bike down, ordered a Gliardoni cylinder set and for the next 12 years the bike was in boxes. Last year I got serious about finishing it. Today I finished the wiring. I installed one of Greg Bender's fabulous wiring harnesses. I also installed his slick "relay solution" panel. Everything worked flawlessly. This was a very rewarding project!

....while waiting for a tow other than to take a pic (and find some shade!). Interesting experience as all these unplanned events result in (usually). Two passing bikers stopped as well as a couple in a pickup which was a nice reaffirmation of the inherent kindness of folks, a pleasant break from our current craziness. The brother of the guy who owned the towing outfit that was called lived a 1/2 mile down the road from where I broke down. He showed up on his bike. Apparently, a fuel tanker which services a number of the gas stations in the area delivered a incombustible gas/water mixture and the owner was stacked up with vehicle recoveries for the rest of the day. Well, the guy took the time to swing by his house, load up his pickup and attached a motorcycle trailer to his flatbed recovery vehicle, and dropped off said equipment where I broke down. The three of us had everything loaded up in short order. Have to give a shout-out to AMA roadside assistance who found somebody with the right equipment. I've not been as lucky in the past....

V11’s create a hell’uva lot of interest wherever they land - people & other bikers just love to find an excuse to sidle up & have a perve, a chat, even give a generous helping hand! Now if it was a generic like a Honda or sumsuch - meh! I wouldn’t be so sure. Better clean it though - she’s looking a bit skanky 😂

Hey Docc, Tks for linking that post, it made for excellent reading, and with the help of google translate, those linked articles were a treat to read. You gotta love the passion of some of the Italians when it comes to designing and producing motorcycles, it's rare in this modern bean counting world.

Miles' "Kind of Blue" is my favorite jazz record from 1959. In 1970 Miles invented fusion with "Bitches Brew" after seeing Hendrix. Miles added electric bass and electric guitar and lots of rhythm to his music. This spawned Herbie Hancock, Weather Report, Mahivishnu, Larry Coryell, Chick Corea, Stanley Clarke, etc, etc. I recently saw documentaries on Miles and Jeff Beck. So if Miles was trying to be Jimi Hendrix with "Bitches Brew", was Jeff Beck trying to be Mile Davis after hearing "Jack Johnson"? Only two cuts on the full album, A side and B side. I just discovered this after watching the Jeff Beck doc. After hearing it, I think it's perhaps the very best of the fusion genre, at least Mile's "Right Off".

Y'all boys are good *sports*! Thanks for tolerating my mirror spoof. Here is my actual set-up (early CRG barends with complicated machined attachment to the factory Sport clip-on weights): Yeah, it's wide, but its low. Worthy of a proper Blues Bassman. And bogus poet . . .

Got my chit, right there! But I'll be buying you one right back!

Well "shhheeee-it". But I'm not buying more drinks. (Guzzi content)

I don't "think" the angle of the nipples have to be opposite for the driveshaft to be balanced . The concern is the coulped front/rear driveshaft phasing . This is critical so anyone that doesn't understand should watch videos , look at these driveshafts w/slip yokes to fully understand what is going on . Historically , I have seen a lot of these in pick-ups . big trucks , etc. where the driveshaft has been removed and not reinstalled correctly . Study this until you KNOW what is right and wrong on a two-piece shaft .

It's only recently that I've noticed how sexy the curvy lines are on the V11s from the rear, but I must admit, I think there is a design conflict when the reflection behind you is measured in acreage not square inches, js,lol.

I'm speechless docc you've set the bar very low there:). If you need mirrors that big you're not riding fast enough.Dead flies on the back of the helmet? Ciao