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Well, let's see. Decided to check the TPS today and found it set at 300 mv with all the assorted goodies disconnected and the throttle body fully closed. Set it to 157mv and proceeded to balance the throttle bodies. Lo and behold found a clamp between the throttle body and the left cylinder wasn't snugged down so there was an obvious leak there. Since it seemed to run pretty well with all this going on it will be interesting to see how it does when I take it out in the morning.

Wrapped about 90% my 115,000 mile service (5,000 oil/filter/tune-up and 12,000 mile tank-off fuel and air filters). Fork oil change remains. Learned a few things and will try to post them in the right places. Rolled about 150 miles for a shake down ride. Over 90ºF/30ºC here today, so had a nice little picnic at a lovely spot nearby, Berlin Spring . . .

Right side connector is the temp sensor located in the stock air box left side connector is fuel level gauge at least on my bike they are Andy

I bought a Zumo 396LMT-S for mine, the screen is a good size for me and it does everything I need it to do..and only a power cord to deal with..I attached the power to the Key operated parking light source and then cut it about 18 inches from the end installed an AMP connector just behind the gauges and top triple so I could easily remove the whole set up when not in use. I Had a friend machine a new Billet Steering Stem nut with a 19mm open top and enough space to machine to get a 30 mm wrench on it to tighten. I found this Ram mount on the UK site " The Visor shop", I don't see them even listed anywhere in the USA...it took about 10 days to receive it. All went together very solid and I like it because it doesn't get in the way of the ignition and is right in the line of sight with the gauges

You guys did an awesome job of working through the RAM steering stem mount. Welldone! I have been using the one shown above to mount my GPS offset (eccentric? ) to the left. Saying goodbye to me twelve year old 550 ZUMO. That's pretty impressive age for any electronics, especially seeing the hard duty and weather of navigating 60,000 miles/100,000 km on my Sport in all conditions, roads, and weather. The replacement mount for the Garmin 595LM ZUMO is hard wired to an absurd octopus of a harness with four extra audio plugs and a stupid amount of wiring. I only need 12v power and want to able to remove both the device and the mount when not needed (98% of the time) leaving the Sport cockpit clean. Planning to remove everything right of the AMP connector: The new mount (as well as the new device) are much trimmer than the old 550: Now to take the side cutters to a perfectly good, brandy-new harness . . .

Hey Vic, the reproductions made by EMGO are exact replicas, and very nice. I can't tell the diff, but for a small 'EMGO' at the bottom. I use them after scratching/breaking originals. These are 'likely' EMGO and they may be found cheaper. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41&products_id=3016

Here it is:

Thats a lot of grief to process. Keep going, better times ahead. Ciao

Thanks for the compassion, friends. I appreciate your kind words. Yes, I'm very eager to take «miss greenie» for a trip, so I have to get her up soon. Here's my project status list: Oil Pan is glass bead blasted, painted and back in place. New gasket, oil filter, and bolts. The battery holder had some rusty spots. Sanded, painted and ready to be mounted. Burned 30A fuse/fuse-holder replaced with Tyco 30A breaker. The unoriginal and stiff intake rubbers are replaced. Fuel filter and fuel hoses are replaced. Throttle bodies are cleaned and mounted. Partly cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner with kerosene and manually with brake cleaner. The defective electric petcock is replaced with a manual type. External ground (1,5mm2) to voltage regulator is replaced with new (10mm2/7 AWG) https://www.flickr.com/photos/hammershaug/albums/72157714007221726/page2 Haven't decided about replacing the pawl spring now, or after season. Haven't decided to put back the air filter box or the new, big K&N's. Yes, I know, the warning... but I like it that way;)

Pretty sure this topic belongs in "How to . . ." I'll be moving it after I make this post. Having taken my tank off this morning for filter changes, I thought how nice it would be to have a functional manual fuel tap /petcock. Pretty inelegant to apply slip-joint pliers, even through a leather pad, to accomplish fuel shut off. I did note that my tap needs almost an extra half of a flat to close fully. So, only about 1/12 of a turn. Right annoying. Thanks, again, Lucky Phil!

Hi Bob Maybe this thread can give you tips on possible cause of the noise (tapping) in your bike. I think your bike sounds the same as my did. The solution to my problem can be read on page three in the thread. Good luck! // Jörgen

Pretty Clever Foto, What kinda oil ya runnin' synth or.........DINO?? Paul B

Sorry to hear that Jan, my condolences. Cheers tom.

Thanks for letting us know. This makes me look even more forward to "Greenie Coming Up . . ." as I know your friends will be there with you. Hang in there, friend.

Hammershaug, I feel for you, that's a lot of pain to process. While you're digesting all that life has thrown at you, please be mindful and careful. Hope your bike comes out the basement easily, and you get some quality time with it. Kelly

Top feed stops the oil gravitating back to the sump when resting John but I've seen it done both ways. Dont think it matters that much. Ciao

Wow, Hammershaug.. you have had your share of heartache. (!) Take care of yourself, now, and keep going forward.. I feel for you.

Hammershaug, Sorry to hear about the passing of your Father, even when expected it only dulls the pain. Condolences.

Well I've finally put this one to bed. Due to available sizes for Viton/FKM seals I eventually had to machine down the oring grooves on the piston to 10.2mm od from the std 10.5 and widen the grooves as well to take a slightly wider 2.4 mm seal from the std 10x2.0mm. Someone at home with a pedestal drill may be able to do this with a small file and some care. So as shown in the previous image I have slotted the piston and drilled the housing to accept a 4mm grub screw that is now the open stop. I've modified the piston oring grooves as previously outlined and used Viton/FKM seals of 9.8 x 2.4 mm which dont swell in fuel. Put it all together with blue loctite on the grub screw to lock and seal it and you have a tap that doesn't leak and works smoothly and very nicely. The whole issue is the original Nitrile seals swell in fuel and cause jamming of the piston/plunger. Nitrile seal swelling in fuel isnt an issue between 2 fixed immovable surfaces where it can actually assist sealing but in this situation it's horrible. My main concern is wrenching on the tap when trying to shut it off which is being transmitted through plastic mounted tank integral threaded inserts. Wreck one of these and the tank is scrap. So as usual the OEM has literally skimped pennies on the seals and made the tap in some cases useless.Nice design but looks like the accountants got involved. Ciao

I omitted a whole bunch of stuff and now have a very rigid mount. I found a nut the same size as the hole in the chrome cap. I threaded that on followed by a couple washers then the nut supplied with the kit. Tightened everything up and done. That simple. I just spin the whole thing on. Solid, no cutting and simple. If it loosens you just take some pliers and take the chrome nut off. It shouldn’t be that tight anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk