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I had an 1100 sport ie with a Staintune exhaust that I really liked.Apart from being very well built and had a nice deep sound it was really good torque and throttle response from 3000-6500 rpm. Now with a V11 LeMans I have looked around to find a replacement with those specs. to get the same result on this bike. So I ordered a full exhaust system from MASS moto in Italy 42mm ID all the way from cylinder to end of silencers. I got a picture of it sent to me before they shipped it. What are your thoughts on especially the crossover part? I have recently done a neck surgery,so I have restrictions to using my arms for quite some time.Otherwise I would just put it on and see what happends.That's why I'm posting this. I guess I'm just curious and can't wait.. Link: https://www.massmoto.it/

Seal instillation is more complicated than people think. I hate doing it and always have another one on hand just in case. Probably just me. Pressing in is the preferred option after getting the seal started initially but tapping with a protector/seal driver but sometimes you dont have a choice but to drive it in. Directional mono seals are better than bi directional at keeping oil in and are generally used as OEM on seals where replacement is a lot of work. Thats why I always use OEM for seals that are work to get to like crank seals and gearbox input shaft seals. Here's a new wrinkle. Some new material seals these days need to be installed dry and if you lube them they will leak. They work by depositing a layer of seal material on the running surface in the initial period of rotation. If the workshop manual doesnt say to lube the seal then install it dry. As if it wasn't complicated enough:) On the subject of seals I've bought a LOT of Viton/FKM seals lately and I asked the seal guy how you tell the difference between a black Nitrile seal and a black Viton/FKM seal. He showed me that the Viton/FKM are more a charcoal colour and the Nitrile are closer to jet black. It's a subtle difference but if you look closely you can tell the difference. Important to know for fuel and + 100 deg C heat related applications. Ciao

I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front. I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered. Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Konis; Upgraded fork springs and FAC dampers. After some spirited if limited local riding, I ended with the forks out of the top triple clamp about an inch. These are the steel clamps, I have no way to know if they're 'original' or 'kit' trees, and don't know the exact difference. Ultimately, the thing was a lumber wagon with the 18", perfect for fast straight riding but with proper setup the 16" is perfectly stable with good feedback and confidence, while being enormously easier to turn in all circumstances. It's possible that the thing just really hated the Metzeler front it came with, but I never tried something else before the swap. So there's no definitive answer, but that there is no inherent problem with the 16" front. You just have to find what it likes.

Ride it w/the 16 in. wheel for one year , then decide what you want to do .

So if both both pipes have flats there must me a restriction in the pipes at that point. Looks like a case of Form over Function.

This is a very old post, but you know how it is. I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans. For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair. So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the two pipes flattened and welded to each other, with no holes in between. Lovely engineering, eh? Perhaps it's better for power, I don't know, but calling it a crossover is a bit disingenuous. I have to wonder what Stucchi has done there. Meh.

Hi, the point is the following. The ECU uses two tables with fuel injection values, left (main) and right (delta) cylinder. The tables are indexed by throttle opening (TPS value) and rpm. The TPS is attached to the right (delta) throttle. The challenge is to synchronize both throttle valves so that they are using the same TPS breakpoints. This is essential a small throttle openings, as the TPS breakpoints differ initially only very slightly. At idle the springs are pressing the butterfly valves against the stop screws. Due to the numerous joints there's some play, which is overcome when opening the throttle. So, two different states. Pressing at idle, drawing when opening the throttle. My description is a pre-requisite when using my BIN, as the fuel values were arrived at logging lambda data based on it. Cheers Meinolf

Ya know, someone promised to "bring a handful of Cubanos" a few years back . . . . . . then showed up with a tankbag full of cigars.

Joined the cool kids Sunday. Woohoo!

Nearly fifteen years and 118 pages, I am impressed by how many of the older images still display (many don't). Every now and then, I enjoy scrolling through and looking at some awesome images that have been shared on this thread. Like this contributor, Daniel Kalal, who hasn't been on here for over ten years, but this image (on page 2) is just very moving, IMO: