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Yes, I was. Did you? As you can read from the description on the Flickr page: «Heating and careful work with a hammer and an old screwdriver made it happen.» Throttle bodies, stabilizer rods, and new hoses are remounted, but Greenie is still in the basement... I'm building a new motorcycle workshop these days. Busy as hell. Rain tomorrow = replace gear change pawl spring.

Good . Put on some Steppenwolf and go !

I think you just remove the assembly ? This was some X ago . It can't be too difficult , I did it . Look at your parts diagrams then order the o-rings & superbad valve cover gaskets . MG Cycle is supposed to be the vendor for these . Get the o-rings from them too . Adjust the valves to taste and have fun ! Trust me 0.002'' isn't going to throw the Earth off it's axis .

^^^ this is a very good sign ^^^

I was hoping someone had the definitive answer for this . . . I've been through a couple pair of FIAMM horns. Nice to sound like a pickup truck when necessary! They are certainly susceptible to gathering moisture and debris. I learned to angle them away from the tire spray: . . . using the FIAMM guards (secured with black RTV silicone). FIAMM once offered to replace my horns when they quit. Worth asking. (They also sent me the guards, pictured, free of charge).

Yes, I put my old TPS and now the V11 works fine

Got metal gaskets from MG. Two things: 1) The "mechanic" who last touched it used zero washers here, one there, two there. Sloppy work. The guard is apparently not supposed to have any washers under it (between it and the valve cover). This one had washers underneath the guard at both end screws and and none beneath the center screws. Thus the ends bolts were doing their job whilst the center bolts were attempting to pull the guard down into contact with the valve cover. Epic fail. 2) All such gasket failures I have seen show the failed gasket being sucked inward rather than blown outward. This is curious. Negative crankcase pressure? It is assembled correctly now and torqued properly using a CDI ex-aerospace dial torque wrench. I have two changes of metal gaskets should this or the other side fail. I suspect the right side is next, as the same shoddy workmanship is evidenced there, with washers being peppered about.

I wouldn't blame the previous owner,it was a design flaw from the factory and was recalled for a couple years.If you have a black engine and ride and work on it,you're gonna have chips.The way to prevent it? Repaint it and put it up on a stand in the living room and don't touch it...I would use "textured" to describe the paint finish.But most Swedes speak better English than the average American so I wouldn't be too critical of a translation error...

^^^^ Actually, the one I had on the Palm Pilot worked. I had to send it to him so he could load it on the PP. Maybe the only one ever? Dunno. Checked out The Kid's Duck with it.. he was impressed.. it would work on anything. When the PP died, so did the program, though.

I have an assortment of the green "high pressure" O-rings for car/truck HVAC use. They appear to be viton - rather higher durometer than the usual nitrile - so would be appropriate for Guzzi crank sensors and that kind of stuff. 390º was their designated limit for that material. Boeing experience you say? I was in tooling in the 70s until I found a steady job in the government Dad spent 38 years there, ending up in Experimental and Test (B-3410 for any Boeing types) in a small building adjacent to the runway. He enjoyed the heck out of it, as the shop was a microcosm of the manufacturing process, with early CNC, heat treat furnace, autoclave, A&P welders etc. He told me stories of the various times he had to demonstrate to certain engineers that two objects cannot occupy the same physical space.

Yep, not bad. I've looked at a dozen or more of these charts over the last few months and whats frustrating is they can vary wildly in their application criterion. I was primarily looking at Petrol compatibility and as this chart shows FKM is very good but I've seen charts that says Nitrile is good with petrol which it isn't in my experience. It's acceptable in fuel for a captured joint with no relative movement where the significant swelling can work to improve the seal but if you want a seal that wont swell in fuel you need FKM. An example. The link you sent indicates Nitrile is "poor" for gasoline but if you go to their complete compatibility guide it's rated as a "1" "satisfactory" ! There are so many seal material compositions that it gets complicated and identifying what a seal is actually made from can be next to impossible if it's not labeled. Viton/FKM all the way for me, you can't go wrong in the majority of applications. We actually had a major issue with Leading Edge slat actuators leaking on 737's a few years ago. They changed the seal material and the new material wasn't as good at low temps. On a flight of around 3-4 hrs of cruize@ 42,000' when the actuators had cold soaked they used to leak everywhere to the extent the passengers could see a trail of skydrol coming off the trailing edge of the wing. Shorter flights were ok and once it landed the seals in the actuators had warmed up again and stopped leaking. Even the designers get it wrong sometimes. Ciao