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The problem for me with these different lowered pegs is that is places your feet outboard about an inch more. With the oem pegs your boot is partially on the mount bracket with the lowered ones it is not..so you have to kind of turn the front of your foot inward to really get it under the shifter rubber otherwise I felt like just my big toe is doing the shifting..At least that is my experience..I didn't like it...Maybe others have a different opinion.

I wasn't aware they ever were?

When you look at the wiring coming out from the switch,,, every time from right to left with the handle bars, makes unnesseserly stress on the cables. What I did,,, gave the cables some room and strapped them at the switch, not perfect, but relieves the stress on the soldering. Cheers tom

An example -

If it's not leaking, measure the sag, and on the road,, SHE will tell you things tru riding, you have the aerea to it Yes I do like the Øhlins suspension on my Corsa, but still not ready for Wilbers on my Greenie. Just my own idea. Always nice to upgrade, Morten Magers Wilber business in Konsmo is taken care of by his son, I heard. Have some experience with Wilbers,, exelent product for the money. Cheers tom.

Sorry, but I don't recall the bolt size. You might have to do a bit of trial and error to find the right size. There is a washer between the lever and the foot peg to prevent binding. Mike

Kind of you, but just 'cause I've had this bike a while and rolled some miles still doesn't make me an expert. There is an improved tensioner. If ever I had to go into the "timing chest" (that is usually to address leaking, especially on the "wrinkle" black cases), I suppose I would upgrade the tensioner. I just don't recall any real issues with the chain. Lucky Phil (as I recall) did report improved running when he switched to a gear set. When I see the kinds of things done to this low mile V11 (timing chain, power commander, shrouded fuel pump, etc.), it always makes me think someone never really got it running right addressing the simplest known issues (Decent Tune-up, High Current Relays, Grounding, and Ignition/Run Switch service go a long way).

I had never heard of these pegs before, but when I researched them and found a few posts here and elsewhere; one of the complaints I read a few times, was that users did not like having to do "pigeon toed" shifting. I didn't understand what they meant; but after taking a look at the a/m photo and your explanation, I do now. It's the bulky bracket, peg attachment that seems to cause issues, I'm surprised that no one has designed a simple clean L shaped peg assembly all in one. Tks Kelly

I would be afraid to try to weld it. That might actually make it worse. The stock shock isn't very good anyway. So replacing the stock shock is your best option. You fix the seriously dangerous issue of the shock eyelet failing and you will probably get a better shock in the deal. The wife's V11 has a Penske shock in the back. Way better than the stock shock. But there are other less expensive options that will still be better than stock.

Good luck . Take deliberate and slow steps in diagnosing this so you will know what you do to repair it .

Thanks Docc, will check kill switch to. My relays sits actually tight in all the vaseline in the base, but will at least change one cable between relay 1 and 2,,,, to stiff. Cheers tom.

"Kill" Switch gets power from the Sidestand Switch with stand up and from the gearbox Neutral Switch/Relay#3 in neutral. Since yours died in both neutral and in gear, worth addressing the Run/"kill" Switch. Easy to get to, inspect->clean->.Caig DeOxit . . . You have tightened your relay bases as Kiwi_Roy has helped us to understand?

First time died in front of the gas pump in neutral,,, just about to hit the switch,, didn't have to . Second time running slow in 3'rd. I know I helped every possible connections not long ago,, I have a look tomorrow at the kill switch - sidestand. Cheers tom.

Solder joints have been found failed or failing at the ignition switch. Also, later V11 run the starting current through the switch (instead of the early V11 using a relay) which stresses the switch further. It is very common to find the contact grease dirty/hardened and interfering with contact.

Nope

Na they would have all been out along my route to salute and throw down a bed of rose petals being an Aussie Guzzi rider:) Ciao

They heard that an Aussie was coming!

Many years ago, a leak around the shift shaft was one of the things that stopped me from buying a nice greenie. Which I regret to this day. Don’t know how common it really is.

The new and reinforced spring from @Chuck and @Scud in place. The old one has another geometry. Must be compressed? A pretty straightforward task, except for the placement of selector gears when re-mounting... I didn't note what gear it was in when tearing down the gear cover. I think it was in 1st, but I moved the gear level pedal when I took it off and accindentally changed gear. Can I see it from this photo?