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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/27/2020 in all areas

  1. Working with a freind to close deal on an almost "new" 2002 V11 LeMans. This will join my 2003 V11 (currently in garage with broken pawl return spring) and is my 4th MG. As I understand it was a part of collector's portfolio that was auctioned off, bought by a dealer and resold. Had 3 miles on it when purchased, current owner has about 2500 miles on odo now. It is all stock except for the handle bar risers and rear rack. Excited, waiting for DMV to get title squared away, send check to owner and have shipper to pick up in next few weeks. It is essentially in new condition. (Gonna have to hide this one from the wife out in the back garage as she already put the subtle kibosh on any more motorbikes) Despite being an endless tinker/modifier, I plan to keep this one just as she is, stock.
    6 points
  2. This has come up before, but it's been a while. For my Sport, it last happened in 2009 and I couldn't save the stator just reattaching the wire. This time, I removed the stator and made the repair on the bench after eleven years/ 45,000 miles/ 72.600 km and it appears to check out. That is, the resistance through the windings, AC output, and DC charge values all check out. (MΩ from yellow wire to ground is suspiciously low.) The wiring, mounting points, and strain relief are immensely brittle from the heat making the repair more difficult. I suspect my removing the alternator cover to access the nut to position the motor for valve adjustments every 5,000 miles has contributed to the failure. I simply must be more mindful and less careless about this in the future. Otherwise, when you have your alternator cover off, be certain to inspect these wire connection very carefully every time . . .
    5 points
  3. Replacing the wires is dead simple but you might need a 40 Watt iron, one with a pencil bit may not have quite enough heat A soldering gun would have plenty of heat or something like a Weller thermostatically controlled one, there's certainly no nend to replace the stator just because the wires are shot. Out of interest here is the stator from my V7 Special
    4 points
  4. Does it leak oil and refuse to run at times?
    4 points
  5. You know, when they are partially (Ha!) disassembled for maintenance, it's just as easy to bolt aftermarket parts back on. After all, you can switch those OEM parts back anytime you want to - just like giving up smoking...
    3 points
  6. We’re going to hold you to this.
    3 points
  7. Here is a nice pic of the shift side of my Motobits controls. I modified then with adjustable and folding toe pegs.
    3 points
  8. Took the Scura out for a ride around what Zonies call the Salt River Canyon (SRC) Loop. Ultimate social distancing. Just over 300 miles worth. From my home in Mesa, AZ to Globe, across the Salt River Canyon, Show Low, along the rim to Payson and back down into the desert and home. Lots of traffic in the Payson area. In these days of C19, lots of folks going camping for weekend fun. Caught a few monsoon sprinkles along the rim. I would say that the Guzzi purred like a kitten, but that big twin sound is much more like a flatulent Italian grandpa who ate too much spicy Italian sausage.
    2 points
  9. Sounds like a really interesting build, I'm sure we'd all appreciate photo's as the project progress. I am always in amazement of folks that dream and undertake such bold projects. Welcome back!
    2 points
  10. Interested in buying a V11? See this faq and the 'most common problems' faq This addresses the changes in V11 Sports and LeMans motorcycles from 1999-2005 Thanks and credit goes to the many V11LeMans website contributors. Breakdown of changes in year models from 1999-2005. The V11 sport variants (referred to here as just 'V11') have been produced from about '99 to 2005. I understand that this model is now discontinued, and will no longer be built. That makes it a legacy bike, I guess. Major similarities: All the V11 models are 'spine frame' bikes. The name derives from the large square 'spine' that runs the center of the bike between the cylinders and serves as the main frame component. All the V11 variants have the normal Guzzi two cylinder, two valve/cylinder motor that is in a higher state of tune than the 'cruiser' model Guzzi's. The valves must be adjusted- they are not hydraulic. All the V11 variants have the six-speed transmission and a hydraulic clutch. Older spine frame Guzzi's like the 1100 sport, 1100sporti, etc. have a 5 speed box. Real changes in the bikes from inception to end are small and incremental. 1999-2001 models have a (shorter) red frame than later models. They handle 'quicker' or some say 'more twitchy'. Some say they are unstable at high speed- I've never had a problem. The 99-01 models have clip-ons mounted below the upper triple clamp and have Veglia brand (white face) instruments. They have a thinner rear wheel (4.5") and the brake rotors have circular holes in them; apparently the 'circular hole rotors' are more prone to warping than later rotors. My mid-year '01 has later model rotors fitted, so your guess is as good as mine here. Guzzi went to a longer wheelbase in late '01 or '02 to increase high speed stability. The '01 Rosso Mandello still has the short wheelbase of the 00 V11. Some folks have suggested that appropriate tire choice (Pirelli Diablo) gives a machine that handles like the '00-01 models. '02 and later models have additional bracing in the longer frame and a wider 5.5" rear wheel. New front forks with the clip-ons mounted above the triple clamp are standard. '02 and later models have black engine paint. The '02 model paint is 'fuzzy' and is prone to flaking and blistering off- so it looked horrible- and Guzzi offered new cases to those afflicted with it. New brake rotors (triangular holes) are stock. Late '02 models have commonly been rebadged as '03 models. True '03 models should have a '3' in the VIN and have 'satin' engine paint. Fuzzy engine paint on an '03 model is an indication that it is a rebadged '02 (with short/chin-pad tank, white face instruments and external fuel pump and filter). In '02 or '03, Guzzi changed the electric gas petcock out for a manual version. '03 was a 'big' year for changes in the V11; many improvements were made. Fork diameter is larger (43mm instead of the earlier 40mm), front axle diameter is larger and the axle is hollow. A front crossover or balance pipe is added above the alternator (improves midrange performance ?). The engine has a *claimed* higher compression set of pistons, which are now cooled by an oil jet (more on this below). The fuel pump was relocated to the interior of the gas tank, so '03+ models do not suffer from vapor lock like earlier models (see below). Several cosmetic modifications are present as well- the 'chin pad' is gone in favor of a smooth (longer) tank. The engine paint is satin black, the fairing (if present) mounts further ahead on a different 'gooseneck' mount. Gauges are now ITI/ hUr brand (black faces). This interesting trivia from the V11 board: "I would like to add a note about the speedo on the 02 - 03 V11 Naked. This may or may not be common knowledge. The original and replacement speedos on my bike did exactly the same. The bottom line is that the speedo indicates in MPH, the trip-odometer registers in miles but the odometer registers in 2KM increments. If you don't believe me and have one of these bikes, pull off and stop when the odometer just finishes turning to a new number and set the trip to zero. Drive the bike until the odometer just turns an additional "10 miles". You will find that the trip reads just over 12.4 miles or exactly 20KM. " All that said- Guzzi has been known to make 'parts bin' bikes out of whatever is left over. In that case, the bike may have parts from several year models. This can be frustrating, but it attests to the fact that most parts from one year will fit on other year models. Decoding the VIN number (thanks to Todd Haven of MPH Cycles) Z is for Italy GU is for Guzzi KRAKR designates 1100 spine frame 2000-2002(sport and Lemans) 9th digit is undefined 10th digit is model year(not production) W-98, X=99,Y=2000,1=2001,2=2002 11-16th digits are identifying serial number for your specific bike.
    1 point
  11. It’s been lying in a drawer for some time. As I don’t wear watches anymore, maybe someone here is interested. It’s a Junkers Wellblech automatic watch in good slightly used nick. It has a small MG logo. A limited series was made by a Danish Guzzi enthousiast years ago. This is #25. The glass has no scratches, the housing only very minor. Dark brown leather strap. Asking price: € 200,- + shipping If noone is interested I’ll put it on eBay 😄
    1 point
  12. If I give up the tickets for Barber in Oct due to this virus, I may show in Tenn. because I am definitely bored to death and over this upper 90's heat!
    1 point
  13. Hi all. This is my first post on the forum. My 2007 CalVin was a neglected beast when I obtained it two years ago. It had been stored outside, unused and uncovered for a long period in a damp, coastal climate. I love it, together with my 1100i sidecar combination. The CalVin has a frustrating rough-spot at about 2,000 to 2,150 rpm. At low speed, if I am in this band, it feels like the motor is trapped in a valley that it doesnt want to get out of. I can drive through it, but this involves dropping a gear to do it comfortably. I am mechanically/electrically weak. There are no Guzzi dealers in my country. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, John.
    1 point
  14. The bolt size is Flat Socket Head Screw A2 SS - M10 x 1.50 x 80M. I think you'll also need a spacer -- 10mm ID, 15mm OD, 20mm long. Can find one, still looking.
    1 point
  15. That looks interesting, so I guess you'll need two. Let us know how well it works out, and perhaps some "how to" photos of the removal of the old plastic elbows and install of the new metal ones.
    1 point
  16. Since I went with the in tank pump, I wanted to make sure I won’t have issues with those plastic disconnects. I found these: https://ziptyracing.com/products/fuel-pump-elbow-oem-8000ah2930-gte-fi-husky?_pos=1&_sid=4604f34df&_ss=r you remove the plastic elbows, tap and thread the fuel pump base and screw these bad boys in.
    1 point
  17. These “450 watt” units are apparently identical. In the thread about my 2009 stator failure, Greg Field commented on this. I can link that thread later when I get home...
    1 point
  18. Yeah I had to Google the headlight (SEV MARCHAL H1 +H3 Amplilux Headlight) yesterday when you mentioned it in the list above to see what it was. That's an interesting history and a sharp looking light. Now it makes me wonder if it would fit in a Lemans bucket
    1 point
  19. Good news, apparently these can still be purchased by MG Cycle. Link below. Special order, but I've placed mine. Will keep the thread updated if/when it arrives: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=316&products_id=5654
    1 point
  20. Same. I would love more details on what was involved, bolts required, etc...
    1 point
  21. A few weeks ago I cut off those yellow, loose bullet connectors to the regulator. Then soldered and crimped the wires properly. @Tomchri told me to also check the stator wires, and I did. They looked ok. Barely touched them. Afraid of breaking the soldering points... Possibly another weak spot to worry about. As an electrician I fully agree with @Kiwi_Roy The isolation resistance must be at least 1Mohm in households with 230VAC/400VAC. On a bike with a 12V system, 0,5Mohm is _more_ than enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. Hmm... Moto Guzzi has perfect opportunity to boldly leapfrog - like it once did with the Otto Cilindri - introducing a new reconfigured Vtwin! https://electriccarsforeveryone.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/cits-two-stroke-engine.pdf 2021 will introduce a new dawn - whatever they’ve got cooking I sure hope they Seize the Day! 😏 https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/www.grandprix247.com/2020/01/15/red-mist-will-we-see-2-stroke-formula-1-engines-in-the-future/amp/ F1 is drawing bold new plans for 2025
    1 point
  23. Gorgeous! You're gonna need a shakedown ride, buddy!
    1 point
  24. They are referring to the insulation resistance 10 MΩ is what you can expect with new wiring but even 0.5 MΩ is perfectly adequate. We don't normally bother with measuring the insulation resistance for 12V wiring but its standard practice for mains wiring its done at a DC Voltage if I recall correctly 1.5 x normal Voltage so it requires a special meter commonly referred to as a Megger, not just a normal multimeter. If you use new copper wire you will find it solders well to the existing coils.
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. Stunning condition, congratulations. The rear rack is a Guzzi accessory piece btw.
    1 point
  27. Done deal, don't understand why I'm not receiving your messages, could you try again & if not received by 12pm Tuesday will try & sort. Thanks
    1 point
  28. My VII Sport did the same thing, the wire was so corroded I couldn't re-solder it so I simply replaced it with new yellow wires.
    1 point
  29. I've PM'd you about 4 times now. $550ua for both sets plus shipping which will be around $50au I think Ciao
    1 point
  30. I am not using any factory Ohlins components. The forks are top secret till they arrive. I will say that they will have Mupo K911 Cartridges in them.
    1 point
  31. Pics of the really awesome headlight. These are independently adjustable for high and low beam. The pinnacle of Marchal
    1 point
  32. Those gears are coming from the U.K. Joe Caruso has them made and they are steel. heres the invoice from Joe this morning: CENTAURO LARGE STEEL GEAR 350.00 CENTAURO OIL PUMP STEEL GEAR 235.00 CENTAURO UPGRADE OIL PUMP 375.00 BRONZE THRUST FLANGE 90.00 CAM FOLLOWERS X 4 420.00 SHIPPING TO USA TRACKED GLOBAL PRIORITY 67.00 ___________________________________ TOTAL AMOUNT UK POUNDS £1537.00 I’m wrapping my wallet in asbestos....
    1 point
  33. here are some previous posts on rear shock absorbers that you may find helpful. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19555-shocking-rear/&tab=comments#comment-212161 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17903-rear-shock-swap/&tab=comments#comment-190413 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17262-rear-shock-absorber-crack/&tab=comments#comment-184473 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/8147-broken-shock-eye/ https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/4246-shock-horror/
    1 point
  34. Well, actually this would still allow your boot to be right up against the porkchop, so I'd say "no" it doesn't cause the same pigeon toe issue as something like the Buell pegs. ...although it may feel a little odd with more than half your boot on top of the pivot and bolt instead of the peg, where in the stock location it's a bit less. Another minor consideration is that it increases the distance between the pegs and the brake & shifter, but depending on shoe size this may not be an issue. It would be curious to see more detailed photos and specs on how the bolt on the right side was handled. So this might be a good modification for some and require minimal modification, and I think I now remember this being brought up as an option in the past as well that I just forgot about.
    1 point
  35. What realy excites me is to ride my bike 'on the cam'. And that applies to any bike at all. Its just that you cannot ride anything modern and powerfull in such way if you want to be back home for your supper and not ending in a box or in jail. I have a few small bikes like an Airone Sport or a Bultaco 350 and enjoy them immensely when i can wring them around coaxing every horse availlable to stay 'in the zone' and on song. May be i am old fashioned and missing something but the Airone at 60mph is more fun than my ex Stelvio at 130. Many customers aren't looking for silly power and over prepped steers, technology is a lure and progress an illusion, give me two valves and pushrods please. There wont be any need to rebuild the head at silly expense or to remortgage your house to reshim your desmo. So for me, guzzi is on the right track staying air cooled and pushrod , keeping production costs down , but with the added value of a shaft drive thus reducing maintenance. As a mechanic, i cannot but admire the skills of the creators of those super rockets but it somehow lets me cold.
    1 point
  36. Is there any other way that you could photoshop, so badly, such a cornucopia of ugliness? It really is praiseworthy for that, and only that......
    1 point
  37. I think this is dead. If they do decide to resurrect the Lemans it'll be an 850 with a bump in power like they did with the TT and it'll look a lot like the MKIV. I was one that was sad that they killed the CARC. I will own a Griso one day.
    1 point
  38. Well buying a motorcycle is not a totally rational decision. So why pretend it is? You SHOULD love it - or don't buy it. But could you let your love wait and find greater fulfillment with a different model? Have you seen the page where all the model year differences are described? If not, here's a link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691 The champagne LeMans is so pretty...
    1 point
  39. That's my offsider Michael's workshop. His family also have a farm and have done for a long time, hence the old farm equipment. Since his return after his stack on his Aprilia we're working on making his workshop wheelchair friendly as he's now a paraplegic, (Last year was really a nasty one for us. Ron, Mark and Michael all stacked quite badly. Mark busted his Tib and Fib and is now full of Titanium rods. Ron bust something like seven ribs and a few other bits and was out of action for months and Michael bust his back, collar bone, nine ribs and split his sternum open and is now chairbound. @#!#$# 2018!) In our filthy socialist country our 'Green slip' insurance scheme offers Michael lifetime support so both he and Motomoda are getting a lot of help to enable him to continue working, not just in his current shop but in the new one being built next to his new townhouse that is being constructed on his parent's block in Bungendore. I'll keep his indolent, malingering nose to the grindstone! Pete
    0 points
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