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For those wondering, the good news is that Pressureangle is still selling the roper plate, I just ordered one today. Thanks Eric!

Looks like this is Teo Lamers bike or at least he has something to do with it. Earlier engine pics - With Teo Next Generation head The Bike The Gearbox. Now this is something I have often thought of and couldnt understand why someone hasnt done it earlier. Running the sprocket at the pivot stops the chain from changing tension through the arc of travel. Reduces stretching and effects on suspension. It also allows for a longer swingarm which helps with suspension. The finished product

For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.

Phil, as a Corvette owner with an LS-3 engine, I have to say it's one of the great ones. In fact, on just about every high end hot rod build TV show, the "go to" engine is the LS-3. Chevy has updated to the LT series engine with the same basic design but with direct fuel injection. The older engine is still most popular with hot rod builders in Chevy's catalog. For sure, based on power to engine displacement the push rod engine losses out to DOHC. But wait, there's more ways to look at this. Compare the 6.2 liter Chevy to the 5.0 DOHC Mustang GT and both of them make close to the same power but the Chevy engine is physically smaller, carries weight lower in the car, weighs less (all aluminum), has more torque, gets similar power, better gas mileage, easier to maintain, cheaper to build and much simpler design. It also hauls ass like an American V8. But "only" revs to about 6500. Head to head, the Chevy wins most of the performance contests. Certainly Ford builds some higher performance versions that are faster like the Shelby version but Chevy has a supercharged version too. I'll say in the real world that 435 HP is adequate with a 6 speed manual. If I turn off all the traction nannies it's real handful and I've nearly binned at time or two. OTOH, I rode shotgun on 600+ HP supercharged 'vette on a road course and with launch control, the 80 year old driver had me screaming like a baby. Being a Chevy guy, my youngest son had to get a Focus ST. That kid can break a rock, so lots of the Ford ticky tac is breaking. It has some strange repair stuff like axle bearings and the like. It eats tires, shakes unexpectedly and has the most non intuitive ergos of anything I've ever driven- even to the point of adjusting the seats, plus annoying chimes and sounds. But it's a total hoot to drive. And zooming through traffic, it's size and agility make it a fast ride that I'd have hard time matching with my Corvette. I've always liked hot hatches and nearly bought one before I found a low mileage 'vette. There are plenty of pampered used ones at bargain prices.

Good folks like @czakky and @JRD will be glad to know that proper "studs" are an integral part of of our anachronistic, basic, modern V11 pushrod engines. Pretty sure these studs knew that already . . .

A recurring theme with running issues of the V11 Moto Guzzi is that a decent tune-up often effects an amazing improvement. It is The First Place to start. This past weekend, we collectively tuned two V11 in the garage of the South'n Spine Raid. Both bikes sounded fabulous after and the members have given good reports on the results. While the *suggested* procedure is fresh in my mind, I figured to get the basics down. There are several ways to achieve a tune-up on a V11, some more time effective and some more elaborate. This one strikes a balance that is approachable by most owners with a little effort and a few tools. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 1) Valves/ Plugs: When cool (after the bike is off ~45 minutes), remove the plugs, adjust the valves to 0.006"/0.008" (.15mm/.20mm), then gap and install fresh plugs. 2) TPS Baseline: Using a Casper's TPS Breakout Harness (or equivalent), disconnect the right throttle linkage, release the upward facing slotted screw for the high idle cam, back out the difficult to reach 2.5mm hex-drive right-side idle stop set-screw, and clean the throttle butterfly, throttle return spring, and the underside of the throttle bodies (if necessary). It is critically important that the throttle plate is COMPLETELY closed and all of the above have been seen to! Many say to even "snap" the throttle closed a few times (within reason) to seat the plate fully closed. Others "zip-tie" the throttle plate firmly closed. Otherwise, you can simply apply a firm, constant pressure with one hand to ensure the plate is COMPLETELY closed. This indexes the throttle opening to the entire fuel-ignition mapping and cannot be over-emphasized. Loosen the TPS fasteners only enough to tap it or budge it slightly, it is VERY sensitive. Changing the TPS fasteners to standard hex drives (from the factory Torx) simplifies the process (M4-0.7 thread pitch x 17mm long). With a quality voltmeter, connect the positive to the violet/black wire and the negative to the violet (the yellow is not used for this setting). With the Run Switch on, switch on the keyed Ignition Switch. Adjust the TPS to 157 milivolts (most accurate over the factory value of 150 mv). Realize the TPS value changes when it is tightened down, so just repeat until you're in range. Reconnect the throttle linkage and set the high idle cam so it just nudges the throttle when engaged [we will recheck this after the last step, "6) Idle Speed"]. Leave the right-side idle stop backed out. (Some have found using both idle stop screws gives a more stable idle.) (EDIT/May 2019): Having had two TPS go bad after 50,000-62,000 miles/ 79.000-100.000 km, it is simple enough to check the TPS for faults when it is hooked up to the DOM (Digital-Ohm-Meter) . Switch the DVOM to resistance in the 2000 Ohm range with the key off. Slowly and smoothly open and close the throttle body and observe for a smooth transition of increasing and decreasing resistance from the potentiometer (TPS). If there are jumps and glitches or drops and variations in the resistance, the TPS should be replaced. Be certain to set the DVOM back to > DC voltage < before baselining the TPS in millivolts or you'll think something is terribly wrong! 3) CO Fuel Trim: Using guzzidiag software interface (or equivalent), connect your computer to the V11 with the two necessary diagnostic cables. Available from several sources, be certain the OBD cable is properly FTDI chipped. >> Check the Fuel Trim/ CO. If it is deep in the negative double digits, adjust it to zero. That may not be the exact AFR, but it will be immensely better than negative double digits or more (values of -27 to -128 have been reported!). Adjusting the Fuel Trim/CO with Guzzidiag requires the motor to be at operating temperature; simply follow the prompts on Guzzidiag. (The CO Fuel Trim can also be set with TunerPro at any temperature, but that's beyond this basic procedure). >> Don't worry about any other shown values at this point. >> Lambda (oxygen sensor) equipped V11 must have the Lambda sensors turned off in TunerPro. 4) Air Bypass Screws: Turn the upward facing Throttle Body air bypass screws in all the way and back them out one full turn. It is quite common that the tips of these become very sooty along with the passageways. If you have the time and inclination, remove them and clean them and the passageways with some throttle body cleaner. Watch your eyes, Eugene! (There is only a captured O-ring on them and no spring or tiny ball waiting to exit the universe!) [edit/May 2023: These O-rings should be inspected due to their age. Deformed, torn, or damaged O-rings should be replaced.] 5) Throttle Body Balance: Bring the engine to operating temperature. Connect a suitable Throttle Body balance tool like "TwinMax," manometer, alcohol/Hg sticks or the equivalent to the vacuum taps at the junction of the heads. With the white Nylon knob on the left, balance the vacuum at two or three thousand RPM or so (not idle). Make certain the white knob does not interfere with the shock's reservoir or anything else. See that the throttle linkage rod does not foul the speedometer drive on the right side. If you open and close the bell crank of the left throttle body, be certain the cable seats itself back in the groove. [Consider a lock nut against the white knob per Dave Richardson/Guzziology.] Some like to fine tune the idle balance using the air bypass screws, one in a little, one out a little to show good balance at idle. 6) Idle Speed: Let it idle and adjust the 2.5mm hex-drive left-side idle stop set-screw (easy to get to) to put the idle where you and your V11 are happy. Technically 1050+/- 50, I find mine *happier* a little higher (around 1150-1200+). Don't worry over the *degrees of opening* or the TPS idle voltage; seriously, just put the idle where the motor idles nicely for your conditions and liking. Once Steps 1-5 are set, you can put the idle anywhere you want. But you cannot start here. [Be certain the throttle cable has the appropriate freeplay to not pull on the throttle linkage in the idle position. Finally, recheck that the fast idle cam is not making contact, but just nudges the right throttle linkage when engaged.] ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ That's a "decent tune-up." I prefer to tune *early & often* finding that even at 5,000 miles (8.000 km), the V11 runs sweeter after setting the valves, fresh plugs, and a throttle body balance. There is a lot that could be added here, and many well informed owners and technicians do things differently, yet this fairly concise procedure has been shown to give very satisfying results with reasonable effort. As always YMMV, for informational purposes only, and no small furry animals were harmed in the testing procedures.

SOLD. For sale is a set of Mistral Oval Titanium cans I bought several years ago off of eBay. They are in perfect condition and appear to have minimal use. I never got around to installing them and they've just been sitting in the garage. Asking $400 OBO plus actual cost of shipping, from 98006 in the USA. More pictures here

I've installed temperature gauge oil dipsticks from MG Cycle (German made) on both my '03 V11 Le Mans and my '07 Ducati Monster S4R 998 Testastretta (liquid cooled). The typical running oil temp range on the Ducati is 85 - 90°C (185 - 194°F), while the range for the Guzzi is 100 - 110°C (212 - 230°F), riding on an 80°F day on both open roads and in town with traffic lights. Is this much of a operating temp difference normal between liquid and air-cooled engines? Are air-cooled engines designed to safely run that much hotter than liquid cooled engines? The red zone on the gauge starts at 120°C, which I've never hit on the V11. But is constant running between 100 - 110°C normal and ok for our V11s? Any shared knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for putting the new thread up, knumbnutz. This has been too valuable a discussion to lose.

That much discharge is a LOT !

Safely moved all of the interesting discussion about the custom twin and so may excellent replies about technology and engines and such. (Leaving the fragment about The Studs. They deserve it!)

I think they fit all years .

Yep agree with all of that, the last car I owned for 12 years before the RS was a 5.6L 6 speed Monaro ( Pontiac GTO) to you guys and I am a big fan of the Chevs. My dream is to build a Cobra replica or GT40 replica (RSR) and for that the sensible and easy choice would be a Chev crate engine but I think I'd end up using a Ford twin cam of one version or another. If you think the ST a hoot to drive the RS is in another league. AWD and 375HP with a simple hand held tune in it and old school "bugger the ride quality we're here to go around corners suspension. I need to watch myself after scaring some other motorists at roundabouts in attack mode.The wife loves the fast corners which is a bonus as well. Ciao

Another part that I bought off of eBay years ago, here's a stock seat I got as a backup, but never got around to using. The seat is overall in good shape. The surface of the cover has some discoloration and shallow marks. No rips, tears, or holes. I know for sure that the seat fits my 2001 (red frame) V11 Sport, and I believe it would fit earlier models as well. Asking S120 OBO plus actual cost of shipping, from 98006 in the USA. More pictures here

Can't answer the question, but I have a similar concern. When I take my Suzuki DR650 around town (air cooled single, essentially one-half of a V11, Japanese style), on return checking the oil cooler shows that it's barely warm. The same trip on my V11 and the oil cooler is damned hot, maybe not to boiling water, but too hot to touch beyond a fraction of a second. A major diff between the two scooters. Is one too hot, or one too cold, or are they both just right for their particular engineering aims?

Ha! I had some hair then! I still lurk around every once in a while. How the heck are you Docc?

END OF STORY..... ISP had several bot attacks and some of the addresses were blocked by mistake. All fixed and back to the speed of internet Paul B

Looks like that electronic drive is driven off the gearbox mechanical output to create the signal. Pretty sure the only time you would block off the gearbox output is when going to a GPS speedometer. Clearance for the throttle linkage is always an issue, and the reason why early V11 angle drives and later "bent tube" cable ends give us so much consternation . . .

I paid many multiples of thousands for this Truck 20 years ago. I have one of the last Marmon Road Tractors built before Navistar bought the company and ended what arguably was the best truck ever built (by hand). Insurance is a evil unleashed on this segment of the economy. With ruthless lawyers preying on this industry I pay hundreds of dollars a week for it. And no, it wasn’t Swift.. a fellow owner operator who must have been tired. Certainly wasn’t a young kid. It’s unfortunate

https://youtu.be/BXOS5czCb3Q

One of the simpler videos . There is no law you can not watch more . When you test you make sure there can be no backfeed to give you a bad reading . Some DVOMs have a diode test section on your "knob" . You want "flow" in one direction and no flow in the other .

Have you seen the modern engine valve adjustment requirements? My Focus RS, 2.3 litre twin cam DOHC Turbo 350HP stock, no valve adjustment intervals at all. No routine adjustment ever required. Modern 4 cylinder Superbike engines are out to 40,000 klm plus adjustment intervals from memory, probably more. Pushrod engines are more complicated. A basic modern twin cam engine has a cam chain and runner and a tensioner and 2 cams over adjustable buckets. A basic modern pushrod engine these days has a camchain (sometimes a tensioner) pushrods, cam, lifters, rocker arms, rocker arm pins or studs, valve clearance adjustment screws and locknuts, and we won't even go into the interior of the hydraulic lifters themselves with the closest tolerance components in the whole engine and highly sensitive to oil contamination. I read the development history of the Gen111 series of Chevrolet engines and wondered why when they were starting with a brand new design they retained pushrods. The 2 principle reasons were, they wanted an engine for all applications from delivery trucks to a Corvette and so being compact dimensionally was a factor esp for delivery van type applications and the designers at Chev were to scared to go down the OHC route because they had no OHC experience to speak of and knew pushrod engines inside out. Lucky the Gen 111 family turned out to be a great engine albeit pretty poor in the hp to capacity stakes. Ciao

Ah, when you are building rolling anachronisms, why complicate things? F.I. was mandatory. But pushrods and 4 valves would be as easy to adjust and far simpler.

Happy anniversary and the best wishes for the next 20 years! She looks good, @docc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Six weeks out and probably time to get the serious talk out of the way. Then we can return to our regularly scheduled BS . . . Concerns over considerate distancing and appropriate face covering persist. Beyond looking out for yourself and one another, let's be especially considerate of our innkeepers. They have to be in close proximity to folks from all over and often in the close space of their front desk. Let's just please be aware that a face covering and a bit of distance will be a kindness toward Walt and his good folks at The Lodge. No breakfast is being served because of the very close space downstairs. Let's all plan accordingly. Even our usual evening pizza-fest should be given some thought and care. Otherwise, there is that whole thing about this not being an *event*, but simply an idea. Most of you have heard all this before, but perhaps worth clicking the link, especially if this "idea" of a SpineRaid is a new thing for you . . .

I wasn’t even looking for a wheel. Joe Caruso asked me to buy him a Ducati 750 wheel from eBay because the seller wouldn’t deal with international types. So when I bought his wheel, eBay has those “recommended for you” things and boom there was this rear wheel for less then half what they go for. In a moment of blood lust I’m stabbing the “buy it now” button

Rats, You'll be missed. I was going to press you pretty hard to buy the Ballabio this year

Nobody mentioned the mirrors yet:) Ciao

Such appreciation to all involved to make this a reality and honor Pete Roper. Once I saw the engraving, It thought, "I gots-ta get me one o' them to go with my original MotoModa!" [Pinned Topic]

Hi Swooshdave, I traded a Ducati 350 single, non desmo.it was showroom condition but hard and confined enough for 60 year old... I have a pair of Mistral in mind, these beauties greatly benefit to a biteen of Pavarottisation!