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Its a combination of many things but its mainly the difference between air and liquid cooling. Liquid cooling is a far superior and more stable way to cool an IC engine and that translates to less engine temp variability and lower oil temps. An air cooled engine relies to a much greater degree on the oil to assist with the cooling. Liquid cooling also has a greater reserve capacity than air cooling which has none as it takes exponentially more energy to heat water the hotter it gets so the system copes with changing conditions better. It has elasticity to an extent. 100-110 is well within the capabilities of a modern oil esp a full group 4 synthetic which you should be using these days. Ciao

In Folsom California... https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ZJVPnmeiUhz8t3v8 Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.

Working with a freind to close deal on an almost "new" 2002 V11 LeMans. This will join my 2003 V11 (currently in garage with broken pawl return spring) and is my 4th MG. As I understand it was a part of collector's portfolio that was auctioned off, bought by a dealer and resold. Had 3 miles on it when purchased, current owner has about 2500 miles on odo now. It is all stock except for the handle bar risers and rear rack. Excited, waiting for DMV to get title squared away, send check to owner and have shipper to pick up in next few weeks. It is essentially in new condition. (Gonna have to hide this one from the wife out in the back garage as she already put the subtle kibosh on any more motorbikes) Despite being an endless tinker/modifier, I plan to keep this one just as she is, stock.

Splitting the Extender posts to that topic . . . Stand by in the Transporter Room . . .

The use of a high quality synthetic oil will also help ease any worries. It is not as affected by heat as even the best of mineral oils. It is specifically formulated for the higher running temps of so-called modern engines, particularly turbo engines which can be extremely hard on any oil. Synthetic evaporates less. Many engines, particularly air-cooled, that are considered to be oil burners are actually running hot enough that a fair percentage of the lost oil has evaporated. This is from the higher heat level and has the vaporized oil has simply been sucked into the intake via crankcase ventilation and burned, rather than by-passing the rings, as is often thought.

Also, my new Coppa has the same rack and I found a matching OEM accessory bag that is allegedly still available at MG Cycle. I placed an order and can post a pic when it comes in: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=316&products_id=5654

Oh, I'll make them, but the water jet shop won't do less than 10. It's not worth their (or my) time to make the blanks.

Built by the technician Gattuso , with the collaboration of the brothers Gennari, of Verolanuova BS. On the valve cover there is a G with the tail. The meaning of this "logo" stands for G squared, or the two Gennari brothers, and the G's tail, to remember Gattuso's little dog. [

Looks like that electronic drive is driven off the gearbox mechanical output to create the signal. Pretty sure the only time you would block off the gearbox output is when going to a GPS speedometer. Clearance for the throttle linkage is always an issue, and the reason why early V11 angle drives and later "bent tube" cable ends give us so much consternation . . .

SOLD. For sale is a set of Mistral Oval Titanium cans I bought several years ago off of eBay. They are in perfect condition and appear to have minimal use. I never got around to installing them and they've just been sitting in the garage. Asking $400 OBO plus actual cost of shipping, from 98006 in the USA. More pictures here

Haven't got the plumbing yet to measure fuel pressure, but wondering has anyone gotten rid of stuttering, misfiring, exhaust bangs going steady between 2000 - 3000 area by getting a little higher fuel pressure ? She is missing some fuel in that aerea. Idling, balancing, TPS, valves, 0.85mm cam sensor and all elec have been gone thru,,, AND she runs VERY strong in the mountains in the upper rpm. Curious as usual, so be great if someone said,, yes I had a problem like that with my f regulator, little red neck adjustment cured the problem The cure was a suqqestion from a what I call a awaked friend. Suqqestions, yes please. Problem shall be solved. Cheers tom.

You don't have to worry . It IS gonna do this and no matter what you spray on the case , it is going to peel , delaminate or whatever it is called .

Since this one is a 2002, I am just a wee bit worried about the engine case paint spalling off. I plan to use either one or the other of these to protect/preserve the paint/coating. I use the Moto Protect on my KTM 250 (plastic, aluminum and painted surfaces) with good success. I have also used the HD Engine Brightener on my 2007 Street Glide (before I traded it) and have sprayed the engine cases/valve covers/trans. of my '03 Lemans with excellent results. Both are silicone in nature, but the HD product is quite a bit heavier and therefore stays intact longer. But I must caution, either of these must not be used on seats, grips, pegs, TIRES! and all brake surfaces (pads/rotors/calipers) should be covered before you try to spray it on. Of course, the HD product comes with a HD price LOL. Any feedback or experience on engine /trans case preservation on 2002 LeMans welcome.

I agree, I'm not really worried about the oil performance. What I am concerned about is a repeat of what happened to my first air-cooled bike - a '95 Ducati 900SS/SP. Many years ago on an 85° day I was leaving Port Jefferson shortly after the ferry arrived and was stuck behind 50 cars and a series of 4 or 5 stop lights. 10 minutes later when we finally got through the last light and got moving, my buddy pulls along side of me and starts pointing at the back of my bike. We pull over and he tells me I have blue smoke coming out of one of my exhausts. Long story short, turns out that the rear aluminum cylinder (the rear always runs hotter on Ducatis due to less ventilation) warped due to overheating. The bore became slightly ovalized which allowed oil to bypass at the two new long ends of the oval. The '95 and earlier 900SS did not have an oil gauge and the overheating warning light never came on. I have no idea what the oil temp got to that day. So, I'm more concerned about the heat causing warpage than the oil breaking down.

Consistent readings within a narrow acceptable range are a very good sign. I have wondered if I should mount a pair of 12V CPU fans in front of the oil cooler, but no apparent need. As to the difference between the Ducati and Guzzi gauges, one would first have to dip them both simultaneously in a liquid of known temperature to avoid the apples and oranges conundrum. If the gauges verify each other, then maybe the Ducati is intended to run cooler, or it may have a malfunctioning thermostat. As it is with our bodies, i.e. blood sugar, alkaline/base balance etc., too hot or too cool are both detrimental to our health. A little testing and consultation of normal op temps would be in order. As well, German made goods have their variations in quality control as well. Is one gauge an anomaly? One way to find out.

If not for the Staintunes there now, these are awfully tempting. Looks like they might be high mount or semi-high mount?

Wow, congrats Tom. That bike really is near perfection. Al, great looking bike as well. I like the Corbin touch. I'm beginning to feel that I need a LeMans to park next to my Coppa and Griso! They really are very different looking machines.

Thanks Docc, everything is simple when,, IPA will not be running low, beer is on me. Did try right now with the PC, a little better. Tried with the Titanium ECU, WORSE. Have 847 regulator on both bikes, very happy with that. It's friday [emoji482]. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

The V11 has this standard but the Griso doesn't which seems odd but there you go. Ciao

Yeah, liquid cooling tends to be more consistent. That said, I always want my oil temp to get above 212 degrees F so it boils off any water / condensation. 230 degrees F is no issue for decent quality oil. And an oil temp between 212 degrees F and 230 degrees F is what I want. You can install an oil cooler thermostatic valve that diverts oil from the oil cooler until it is up to temp. And you can combine that with a larger oil cooler to gain additional cooling capacity. That should allow more consistent oil temps with a slightly lower max temp while still getting above the 212 degree F target. But personally we don't ride in city traffic and don't have temp issues very often on our Guzzi's.

Having chased so many hiccup/stutter/pop/ misfire over these many years, it still surprises me when the Sport smooths out after some improvement in the charging system. Just something more to consider before the IPA runs low . . .

yeah, i mentioned that in another post. I upgrade all my wiring on equipment with tin plated marine wire. This company has it for the best price and in stock. Marine Grade Wire

I have never bothered but you can buy wire that is tin plated, they use it on boats a lot so a marine store is a likely source. I think it would stand up to the conditions in the alternator better, Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out. Roy

Paul "Loopy" Lewis was involved with the Dock Gate 20 Harley dealership in Southampton, Uk. He seemed a likeable chap the few times I chatted with him, happy to listen to you and told a few interesting stories. I do remember him wheelying a full dresser Harley in a very tight space at a show. Also going like a maniac pulling wheelies around the roundabout opposite the shop. No longer sure of the details but I remember him saying he could beat any non-racer on any other bike with his Harley. .

Yeah, most tractors have a governor rather than a throttle.

Did the problem occurred before or after flashing ECU with Meinolf’s map? Just wondering. As always; one step back and take a deep breath [emoji3] Good luck, Tom! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Paul Lewis is happy to tell how fast he was He works down at the local Harley shop in Newstedt, Brisbane these days. I imagine his "confidence" may not have been overly popular at times but he could walk the walk from what I have seen. He had some interesting races over the years including a stouch at Daytona 86 where he and fellow competitor on a ducati clashed, Lewis fractured a foot and the other guy crashed off the track. Lewis rode to 2nd and then got carted off to hospital after giving his press conference from a stretcher

Here is a PDF of a magazine article which shows the designers original BOTT bike - Pier Paolo Gattuso http://www.fastguzzi.nl/files/g&g.pdf The website has some unique Guzzis too http://www.fastguzzi.nl/

Maybe it s so you can run a governor Ciao

Safely moved all of the interesting discussion about the custom twin and so may excellent replies about technology and engines and such. (Leaving the fragment about The Studs. They deserve it!)

Yep agree with all of that, the last car I owned for 12 years before the RS was a 5.6L 6 speed Monaro ( Pontiac GTO) to you guys and I am a big fan of the Chevs. My dream is to build a Cobra replica or GT40 replica (RSR) and for that the sensible and easy choice would be a Chev crate engine but I think I'd end up using a Ford twin cam of one version or another. If you think the ST a hoot to drive the RS is in another league. AWD and 375HP with a simple hand held tune in it and old school "bugger the ride quality we're here to go around corners suspension. I need to watch myself after scaring some other motorists at roundabouts in attack mode.The wife loves the fast corners which is a bonus as well. Ciao

Looks like this is Teo Lamers bike or at least he has something to do with it. Earlier engine pics - With Teo Next Generation head The Bike The Gearbox. Now this is something I have often thought of and couldnt understand why someone hasnt done it earlier. Running the sprocket at the pivot stops the chain from changing tension through the arc of travel. Reduces stretching and effects on suspension. It also allows for a longer swingarm which helps with suspension. The finished product

Another part that I bought off of eBay years ago, here's a stock seat I got as a backup, but never got around to using. The seat is overall in good shape. The surface of the cover has some discoloration and shallow marks. No rips, tears, or holes. I know for sure that the seat fits my 2001 (red frame) V11 Sport, and I believe it would fit earlier models as well. Asking S120 OBO plus actual cost of shipping, from 98006 in the USA. More pictures here

Still trying to rope you into a South'n SpineRaid, buddy! Pretty sure I wrote you a note, already . . .

Perfect for cooking off the moisture!

Here are MartyNZ's relay temperature readings in ºC. Mine are a few posts above in ºF . . .

No, this plate is for the 'Broad sump' engines so the Centauro, Daytona RS, Sport-I and V11's. I'd also add that unless you are really a hard launcher it is unlikely you'd need one on one of the five speed bikes simply because of the way they are geared and their unlikliness to wheelie.

How much fuel was in the tank at the time? I've run out of fuel twice in exactly the same location slowing down for a give way sign on a long downhill section( not steep) as soon as I roll through the give way sign and the road goes a little up hill it fires up again. Both times to get me to the servo about 300 metres away. Ciao

Not sure, I'm a bit of a computer Luddite I just know it's been faultless with me. I did however spend a LOT of time researching Guzzidiag on the wildguzzi forum and the Guzzi.de forum where the people that invented it live and there are quite a few connection issues resolved there. Mainly in the earlier iterations and for Apple users. Have a look at the guzzi tutorial thread on the Wildguzzi forum and start from page 1. It takes a while to read through but it's an education and will help. The only things I have to add re connections are these, not from personal experience but just what comes to mind from research. The black lead on the interface leads doesn't need to be connected to the battery. The ECU will provide the earth. Dont connect the power and earth leads around the wrong way or you'll destroy the chipset in the leads. Swapping computer ports can be the answer. make sure you have the correct model bike loaded in Guzzidiag Connecting the leads first and then launching the application can work Erasing the guzzidiag programme and re down loading and re launching can work. make sure the battery voltage is ok or connect to battery charger. Kill switch on. I mostly pull the fuel pump fuse not for connection reasons but to stop the injectors sending a shot of fuel down the intakes every time I cycle the ignition. I think thats about the extent of my knowledge on connection issues. Ciao

Celebrated twenty years with the Sport today.

The very first time I used GD on my Griso, I could see everything, but not connect with the ecu on the bike, I screwed around for 3-4 hrs, double checking everything, but it was only when I found the reader driver and launched it that I actually connected with my bike. I've used GD a few times since and am more comfortable with it establishing a connection; but it's never been a seamless, smooth in and out, I to have to work at jamming a connection through and especially getting the CO trim connection to take and save the changes. Make sure that the kill switch isn't engaged and neither are the safety switches ie clutch, neutral or side stand ?, I think if they happen to be open , I don't think GD will see the ECU, fwiw. Patience and fresh eyes from a different angle have helped me muddle my way through it. Good luck with it Kelly

That looks familiar ...I think they did a great job with as I recall this one year color combination. This was within just a few months of buying mine back in San Jose, California circa 2002.... approaching 20 years ago. Wow.

that's a clean one

Pardon my prior playfulness. Here's some actual advice: I needed to re-install a bushing on my pre-selector (since I overlooked it a few days ago). So I took mine off just now. Having done it a few times recently, here are some lessons learned. You want as clear and straight an approach as possible so you don't get sealant everywhere. (How did I learn that???) It's a good idea to dry-fit it first (without sealant) so you have a feel for it and don't get sealant everywhere (again, how do I know?) Loosen the lower nut on the oil return line and wedge the line as far away from the transmission as possible. If your fuel line is in the way (top right) you can wedge a screwdriver in there to keep it above the transmission case. And you probably already figured out that you need to grind down a hex wrench to get at some of the lower bolts. This would not be a problem on the red-frame bikes, because there is no frame rail connecting the engine block to the lower transmission bolt (that goes through the porkchops.