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There are actually two drains in the moat. The raised one is for gas to go to the cannisters and the flush one drains to the ground. the flush one is about the 7 o'clock position(while sitting on the bike) and may just be covered with debris. Inner cable from a bicycle brake or some 80 Lb test fishing line will rooter it clear. Paul B

Yeah, that's it.. thanks for that. All airplanes are a bigger job than most realize, but this one is (relatively) easy. I expect to fly it next spring, and will have had something to think about and *do* for a year of staying at home. I spent 12 years scratch building a 1930 Great Lakes from the original factory drawings.. now *that* was a job. 044 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Needless to say.. I like building airplanes..

Guys, I've corresponded with Joel Levine: www.joellevinecompany.com. Says he can do them for $295 which includes a 1-year warranty. He was recommended from this forum. Shipping today, will let you know how it goes.

Don't read too much . Just get one and install . No more H Farmall shifting . It will take a week to find N the shifting will be so close . You will be mad at yourself for not doing this earlier ! DO IT !

We're talking the same shape, but...

Thank you, guys. I’ll take another look and try cleaning the drain.

What I did with the v11 is selling it [emoji15][emoji17]. I bought a Norge instead. I wanted to travel in comfort with my wive. I miss the v11. It was running well. But when I sit on the Norge, everything is so easy. Great driving, handling well in the corners. Have some things to do on the Norge but that is how I like it. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

This should drain off through the overflow. Check to make sure the overflow is not blocked or its hose kinked? When using a pressurized hose to spray the Sport, I try to use minimum pressure and volume while being careful not to direst the spray onto sensitive areas (electrics, gauges etc). Then use an electric air blower to get water out of traps and crevices.

Will this work?: https://www.youtube.com/embed/0cn_RCfI6P8 At least it’s a link to see. Just “something to do” huh? Dang. RESPECT to you, sir!

I've always avoided reading amperage/current with my multi-meters for that reason. The lamp is a great trick I always forget about! No doubt the batteries will discharge from charging level voltages after coming off a charger or being ridden. A healthy AGM looks to take 24 hours or more to fall off into the 90%+ range (12.75-12.84v). When this stator failed, the battery had gone too dead to start the bike. After I repaired the stator and charged the battery, it fell off to ~50% overnight (not characteristic of this conditioned PC545 at all). Disconnecting the red charge wire stopped the discharge. Replacing the regulator definitely stopped the discharge. Testing resistance, I found continuity from the red charging wire to the regulator case/ground under 1k Ω.

That wouldn't fit the ITI speedo on the V11, it has a thread like the early Veglia speedo the ITI knob has a tiny screw securing it

I sent mine to Palo Alto Speedo for service . The only complaint being the painted needles faded again .

I did the same a you Cabernet on a Sporti based Magni, with the Magni the dash is difficult to read due to the Magni fairing. So I got a Harley dash and mounted Speedhuts. I had a spare Motogadget sensor lying around so got a mount made and installed the sensor. I then removed the speedo drive internals at the gearbox (which is of course different to the V11 but probably uses the same old speedo output and drive). Remember that second thrust washer which easily falls into the box and can do untold nastiness. I then just blanked it off with a plug like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M16x1-5-BLACK-METRIC-Hex-Allen-Key-BLANKING-PLUG-BUNG-BLOCKER-Male-Oil-Adapter/272164826776?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Seems to work well, I did grind all the lettering off the disc bolts too.

Thank you docc Yeah, plugs out so its spinning close to idle speed. If it's anything like the old spring, the crank and idle pressure will be identical. I don't think many are that interested in the HiCam but I thought this thread might be worthwhile. The agony I've been through trying to understand this engine and the MGS (no I don't own one) changes etc have taken forever and were hard won (and I'm only in the twilight knowledge wise). I'm not that bright but luckily I lucked in when 1) Found Lucky Phil's HiCam thread 2) I'm taking advice from Phil on and off about where to go to next, thank goodness for another "superfan" of these lumps and brimming with experience and know how to boot I'm pretty sure that the pulsing you can see is the spring lifting, so it controls around 82psi but I worry about what will happen when the valve chokes, relatively few revs required for that to happen on cold oil. As I mentioned in the original post, which is a bit long, so a lot may just skim through it and not take it all in. But for anybody thinking about which way to go to eliminate the "Grenade with the pin out" pump there is a lot to chew on, bad news as it is for the cheapskates of this world. A lot think that the MGS-01/V11 chain config must be the "Dog's Doo Dahhs" because the MGS-01 is the pinnacle of these engines. It is but the thing is Guzzi made significant changes to the head design and the MGS heads don't drink oil like a Scotsman finding a pub with free beer in the desert. The pressure on these engines is governed by the relief valve (Duhh) but the kicker is that the valve has only just gotta crack a little and the pressure starts to drop through the floor. Combine that with the heads insatiable thirst for oil and signifcant cooling issues (these engines run toasty hot, well mine does) and you can be balancing on the head of a pin. I've still got a few rabbits in the hat yet, including a new oil cooler, a second oil cooler to be mounted in series to the first and finally going to a 10/60 synth, not to mention perhaps trying to source a halfway house spring. My worrry about the high cold pressure is the rear mains seal, it's not the end of the world to replace but its not a job I'd lke to be doing every time I took her out for a run. John

My output is pretty redundant now, as my Speedo runs off the rear disc retaining bolts, like the Speedo on a Breva. Initially, I calibrated the new Speedo to the old. Later, I used a Garmin Sat Nav. It was an eye opener how enthusiastic the OEM Speedo was.

Finally, a clinically derived solution to properly treat That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint on of the early ShortFrame V11 . . .

Celebrated twenty years with the Sport today.