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Hi, I still get emails asking for the V11 BIN I made available several years ago. I can't find my post with the download links, which don't work anymore anyway, so here's the current download link. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e7MMuO6vrUZGFfmkCtL3zsW1qeS6uDgY/view?usp=sharing The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is: - TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed - Both bypass screws completely closed - CO trim set to 0 - Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws - Running sync as usual And while we at it, here's the link to the Jackal (works with any California with 15M) BIN. Same base setup as V11, but I recommend a larger valve play of 0,3mm for exhaust and intake. The Jackal BIN is quite recent. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb2LXrRrgDI1WO0krnb_GeiAvewbwA1K/view?usp=sharing Cheers Meinolf

Yeah, that's it.. thanks for that. All airplanes are a bigger job than most realize, but this one is (relatively) easy. I expect to fly it next spring, and will have had something to think about and *do* for a year of staying at home. I spent 12 years scratch building a 1930 Great Lakes from the original factory drawings.. now *that* was a job. 044 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Needless to say.. I like building airplanes..

Today is the anniversary of the passing of Giovani Ravelli, for whom Carlo Guzzi and Gorgio Parodi adopted the eagle of the Italian Air Force as the symbol of Moto Guzzi. Since then, we have flown the eagle for many dear friends to be remembered . . .

Yes docc and paulnaz are correct. Personally I dont think I've actually washed a bike for years, its something I try to avoid because it introduces problems. I wouldn't advise washing a bike unless it was unavoidable and necessary. When I do I just use a detergent and water mix and apply it to the bits with road grime and confine the hose to those parts with gentle spray only enough to wash it off. Everything else including wheels,bodywork and screen etc gets sprayed with Mr Sheen furniture polish. It takes off bug spatter as well. It's all we used to use at the race track to clean the bike and screen etc including the IOM where the bike is caked with flies after most races and practice. The switch gear gets Armour all. As I said personally I think washing with water and suds should be kept to a minimum on a road bike. Nothing much benefits from it , wheel bearings, instruments, wiring, chain drives, switch gear. Only after a ride in the rain do I approach the bike with water and detergent and then very sparingly as outlined. Ciao

Sorry Chuck 12 years. I thought I need to check that figure but forgot. Good advice, one step at a time, small bites, one day at a time,break it down to manageable pieces. Works for life as well:) Ciao

That would be 12, Phil.. don't short me. Yeah, on massive projects a guy can't look at the end or he will see how much work is to be done, and never finish it. It has to be, "today.. I'll start fabricating parts for the oleo on the landing gear." Nothing else. After that project is done.. you might think, "Hmmm. maybe I should figure out how to make those aluminum covers that fit over the landing gear struts." One project at a time.

I mean building from scratch is massively impressive Chuck but more so sticking at it for 10 years. I always suffer from the mid project slump and struggle to keep motivated and thats on the 6 month jobs. Ciao

I'm looking at replacing plastic fuel line disconnects on a 2004 Nero Corsa. Any suggestions from someone who has already done this? Was considering these as an option--made for 5/16" line. Would these work? https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

No Cheers tom.

This would be the 3rd set of different valve clearances I've seen from Meinolf for various bikes and probably due to language differences the usual intake/exhaust way of expressing the figures he has now given them as exhaust/intake so just be careful to not get them the wrong way around if this is what you want to use. Maybe docc you might want to change it around in the post or maybe highlight it. Or maybe its just me? Ciao

No I havn't done anything to the master since I've owned the bike and I rode it the other day and it seemed fine..I put new tires on recently and slid in a new set of Ferodo pads..something I've done a million times without issues..so I was quite surprised ..I tested the front and rear brakes while leaving the house like I always do..they seemed ok at that time. I looked at the master as soon as I got it home and on the lift..it seems normal...I will test it out thoroughly after replacing the damaged parts though.

Most likely cause for this is a mal adjusted master cylinder or a master cylinder thats jammed partially on. have you been doing any work on the brake lever or foot pegs? Could be the caliper of course but the first 2 are the usual suspects. Ciao

Personally I'd start from scratch with new crush seals in the heads. Remember to remove the old head seals as I've seen a few with 2 seals fitted there. So remove the headers install new crush seals and re install leaving everything loose and nip up the joints that are causing the issues and then the headers in stages with the rest of the system. I've fitted many many full systems over the years and Termi's on Ducati's can be an appalling fit that you need to wrestle into place. The Akra full Ti system on my 1198 is the only system I've ever fitted that fits perfectly everywhere with the most beautiful and highly accurate slip joints you could imagine and zero strain on anything. I couldn't believe a system could fit so perfectly until I experienced it. Mostly there will be stress involved OR some degree of poor lateral positioning. Sometimes both. How much lack of engagement at the joints do you have? My system has at one joint maybe only a couple of mm past the clamping slot on one side and it creates a tiny black line on the pipe there after a while. Another 3 mm would be good but its about on par with what I expect from a system these days. You could always go to a decent exhaust place and get another 5mm of pipe welded on and linished back smooth. Ciao

What is wrong with your caliper ? The rotor I will have to think about parting with it .

And you should make these "loose" numbers !

Can't imagine my bikes without washing for years, up here at 59d, so a lot of gentle cleaning comes with the territority. Australia'n continent moved 1.5m north the last 22years, but that probably didn't change your need to wash Cheers tom.

I had to get home to confirm in mm. I believe "world spec" is commonly thought of as 0.20/0.15mm (0.008"/0.006"), Exhaust/ Intake. Thank you, again, for sharing this with the community!

We're talking the same shape, but...

Charlie Mullendore (MG restorer/Antietam Classic Cycle) has given Joel Levine good marks for the odo/tachs he has sent to him. For my ITI odo, I gave up and scrapped it. Ordered a "new" kph ODO (manufacturer is duR) from TLM. Cost was $158 plus postage (about a year ago) but it works excellent. I put some very tiny thin strips of red electrical tape to designate 40/50/60/70 mph until my old mind is able to make the conversion without too much thinking.

I love this picture! Beautiful composition and exposure. Makes me want to jump in a canoe and go fishing! docc, are you back to running the flyscreen? It certainly gives your bike the “Silver Bullet” look.

Finally, a clinically derived solution to properly treat That Bloody Farking Front UNI Joint on of the early ShortFrame V11 . . .

Just a heads up to anyone who buys one of these things. Local Bloke has one, fitted a new rear tyre from a different manufacturer and it threw a service warning ⚠️ and refused to engage the cruise control. Dealer, (The importer's shop.) was useless. They "Plugged in the computer" and it didn't tell them anything so they pushed him out the door with a shrug and the dash still lit up like a Christmas tree. Back in Bunged End I ran into him in the pub and as he bemoaned this I suggested checking clutch and brake switches as faults with these will disable the cruise but then it dawned on me, "Did you recalibrate the TC after the new tyre was fitted?" "No." "OK, try that on the way home." Problem fixed. Now if you replace the tyres as matched pairs, even if they are of a different brand, chances are the circumferential difference betwixt front and rear won't be enough to make it have a spazz. If you just replace one tyre with a different brand, even if the profile is nominally the same, it must push the TC out of its comfort zone, hence the ⚠️ and lack of cruise.

Thing is guys your cars aren't stuffed full of identical technology and you never give it a second thought! Why worry about it on your bikes.

I went for a ride today on my 03 Rosso Corsa..I guess while on the highway the rear caliper seals blew ( the bike had been sitting 5 years)..and so it looks like it froze the pads against the rotor..then over heated melted and fried the whole mess..blew brake fluid all over the tire..caliper is un saveable..Rotor is complete toast as well...I did't realize what was happening until I got off the Highway and went to stop and had no rear brake pedal....it could have been worse I guess. I want the rotor like mine with the Gold center so if you don't have one like that or if you don't want to part with yours thats ok..I'll just order a new one..they are'nt super pricey.