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I'm curious if there is anyone in Oregon who has experience performing docc's decent tune-up and would be willing to share tools and knowledge? No problems adjusting valves, installing fresh plugs or changing the oil, but the rest of the procedure has me scratching my head. I'd enjoy learning more about maintaining my V11, rather than dropping off at a garage in town. I'm in Central OR, and will be happy to pay with beer, bourbon, fine Italian wine, etc. Thanks!

I'm thinking by "foam strip" you are referring to the "chin pad" of early tanks? I found this thread by @cash1000 , but can see what you mean by making the ring stand out more. Also, be aware that deforming the chin pad can make them prone to loss by compromising the attachments underneath:

I've been looking over my TechPrep on the Sport for the SpineRaid: two months and about two thousand miles. Got some good things done, made a few discoveries, and got snuck up on that once . . . Down to to a rear tire (I don't want to be THAT guy, again! ) and staving off the Waddington Effect. Four weeks out! Cheers, y'all!

Thanks Doc,couldn't think of the official name for this part, but "chin pad" sounds right, also good heads up on compressing this pad, I'd sure hate to loose it. Kindoy2, good thinking on the bag shimming, this fix never occurred to me. Just goes to show that combined,great minds can fix any problem. I'm going to give it a try.

I would think that one thing you could do is take the screws that they send you which go in through the inside of the bag to attach the other half of the mount to the underside of the bag ,to the hardware store and get some screws which are that thread but a little longer to accomodate placing a matching spacer/shim of some sort the between the bag and the underside mount, rather than raising the tank ring off the tank raise the bag whatever gap needed ( probably not much..to ease the pressure off the chin pad?? . Just a thought.

Nothing , put 'em in and snug them up. snug , not loose and not too tight .

Got it right. Thanks for your responses, especially Lucky Phil, who kept me from doing something dumb.

Post retirement motorcycle mania has left my poor girl (1990 Toyota Supra Turbo) sitting under bike covers and surrounded by 2 wheel adversaries.

I had you down for one. No problemo. That's nine, but I'm now *thinking* about ordering some stock. Naturally, I used it all on the last order.

Many of us have been aware that the rubber part of the torque reaction rod can deteriorate or tear and become loose. It has always mystified me that the bushing appears captured by the "pivot" bolt creating (what has seemed to me) something like a "torsion rod" that would interfere, even limit, suspension movement. Seems to me it would be better for the spring and damping to work without that interference. With the reardrive off and swingarm out, my torque rod has always just stuck straight out like a . . . uh, well, stuck straight out from the bracket on the frame cross member. Sliding the rear pivot bolt through without the reardrive, I realized there is clearance for the torque rod bushing to actually pivot without "capturing" the bushing and stressing the rubber part. Upon removing the front bolt it occurred to me that I can't recall ever pulling it out . . . "OH, that's why [ it doesn't pivot ]" . . . Cleaned it up, BelRay Waterproof Grease, and only set the tightness on the locking nut to allow the torque rod to pivot without clamping the bushing hard into the bracket. Proper Witness Protection Marks to monitor and a promise to add this to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist . . . Friends don't let friends let their pivot bolts seize up!

Funny, after tampering with my Sport from new, I started looking at the yellow marking paint as "don't forget to mess with this one too!"

Yes I agree docc, the torque arm isolators or lack thereof don't impact the transmission itself. It's a cost effective and maintenance free solution to the mechanical requirements not a better solution than rod ends. As I said swapping to rod ends made no difference to the feel or suspension performance it's just a more compact and neater solution. Ciao

I have been discussing with docc about conducting another V11 tuning session during Spine Raid 2020. I have all the cables for connection, a new to me (non-electrical bloke) Fluke 117 multi meter, a spare TPS, a bunch of spare stainless steel hex head cap screws to replace the TORX screws in TPS and finally the TWIN-MAXX cylinder balancing tool. However, I am short on both computer knowledge/ability and a computer to do the guzzidiag part of the decent tuneup. Wondering if anyone technically (computer) inclined could bring along a computer device with guzzidiag loaded to use in a tune up session? I will surely be happy to compensate anyone for the trouble. If not,I will bring along my small desktop computer (Windows10) that I loaded guzzidiag on in hopes someone can guide me thru it.

Thats what actually concerns me docc. You now have the end faces of the bushings rotating against the frame tabs and the bevels drive support faces as the rod rotates with suspension movement. I'm actually impressed with the condition of the bushes in your torque arm docc. Ciao

I don't know about this docc. These style of bushes are actually designed to work clamped up as standard and the rubber flexes. It's served you well for many many miles now. The issue now is that you have 6 additional wear points, 2 on each side of the internal bushes and 2 on each pivot bolt. Car suspension arm bushes work the same way as the Guzzi torque arm with the isolating bush clamped up tight and the rubber providing the flex.I know it "feels" like a good idea but I don't believe it actually is. It's not going to be an issue in the short term though. If you want to go the other route you should use a torque rod with rose joints at the ends as my bike has. I cant tell any difference in performance or "feel" to be honest. Ciao

Excellent -- thank you. I put it back to rights after dinner, and by keeping the clip-on clamps below the triple clamp and extending the bar post all the way up (4"), was able to get the rise I wanted, keep the stock hoses and cables, and not worry about disturbing the front end. Will post photos tomorrow.

My mistake,I misread your reply, still were getting close!

You cant leave the upper clamp in the position you have it. The underside of the clamp must be flush against the bearing adjuster nut. The upper clamp acts as a fail safe to prevent the bearing adjusting nut from the possibility of backing off. Ciao

I have one on my Rosso Corsa Lemans...Having owned a lot of Aprilias I recognized the cap . Order the tank ring for a 2002-2005 Aprilia Tuono...same exact thing..went right on in 10 minutes..Got it from AF! racing https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=94017&sku=TW-TRT.00.640.17500.B&description=SW+Motech+Quick+Lock+Gas+Cap+Tank+Ring I have the Quick lock " Evo Daypack" and the Quick lock "Evo SPORT" tank bags got them from Revzilla Love them

So for those of you keeping score,it looks like the list for round two is as follows: Kane (2) Tom (2) Vic (1) Hammershaug (1) Footgoose (2) Doslemans (1) Vee eleven (1) TOTAL (10) This looks like a good start.

Sounds like a proper nice garage! When the Norge first came out I had reserved one to rent from Agostini’s, and was pretty excited. Plane broke down in Detroit on the way over to Italy, and I spent my “work vacation” in Wichita getting the plane fixed. A painful memory. Rode Red to work today, during this brief interlude from the hot summer temps (I know.... hot is all relative). Was about 50F in the morning, and the cool clear air along with a fresh throttle body sync helping to lift both our spirits, she purred like a kitten. Love it.

That wouldn't fit the ITI speedo on the V11, it has a thread like the early Veglia speedo the ITI knob has a tiny screw securing it

I sent mine to Palo Alto Speedo for service . The only complaint being the painted needles faded again .

Seattle Speedo "says" he can rehab ITIs. I sent him mine, duped me for about $580. Don't send to him, he has apparently scammed quite a few folks. One guy from California sent him about 6 rare Porsche gauges. Sadly he never saw them again. (Moderators: delete if this is inappropriate - Tom).

Mikko, thanks for posting. The Falcons look like a cool, serious boot. They will go well with your emerging dark knight bike! As for the Daytona boots I was asking about, I did buy a pair from Helimot. After trying the regular 45 size I exchanged for a narrow 45, and it’s a good fit. The turn around time with exchanges was pretty fast, and Helimot does a good job. Their price on the Daytonas is very good and I like buying from a small mom-and-pop operation like they are. The Daytona are pretty comfortable and seem to be well made. Not too hot for summer riding so far, even with the Gortex boot liner. I have not yet tested the Gortex boot for water protection, but I look forward to cooler and wetter weather, although wet is only a dream it seems in Southern California.

Well , I have just carbon-dated myself !

Update (sort of): I traded my Volvo 240 for... a Volvo 240. 2 years younger and a lot less kms on the clock. (My GF started to worry)

Baby's gettin' new shoes! And the wheels refurbed . . . "Needs some suspension work. Shocks, brakes, brake pads, linings, steering box, transmission, rear end. Maybe new rings. Also mufflers . . . a little wiring . . . ."

Here are some historic pictures of the LM III of the avatar. More or less my lifetime project. I am now in the process of removing the lower frame and move the block and gearbox 10mm to the right. The 160/60 R18 rear wheel from Fast Pauls Daytona should then fit better.

I'm done with cars. I've had a truck for a long time. Currently driving a 2005 Toyota Tundra Double Cab that I've had since new. It's basically only for road trips, bad weather, and hauling motorcycles (the best is when all three conditions are met at the same time). I'm just about to give it to my middle daughter and get myself a diesel truck - which will also only be for road trips, bad weather, and hauling motorcycles. Some cars I've had that I liked: 1955 Cadillac Fleetwood 7-passenger Imperial Sedan (aka limousine) - had it for about 20 years - drove almost all my friends for their weddings. A massive 20-foot, 6,000 pound car: white with grey crushed velvet interior. When I sold it, I had only one motorcycle (BMW RT) and I made a deal with my wife: "Someday this same amount of space will be filled with motorcycles." I should've said "the same amount of weight..." 1964 Ford Mustang - 289 c.i.d. 4 speed manual. Daily driver for many years: restored it twice before I sold it. 2001 Volvo V70 2.5T - probably the best mix of performance and practicality of any car I've had. I realize that's not much of a statement when compared to the mustang and caddy - I've had some other cars too, but I didn't like any of them.

After 2 1/2 years and almost 3,000 views, I hope this posting has been helpful to viewers. I admit, I refer back to it to keep my Sport up to the mark! I realize, though, that the thread is locked. So, please, if you have any suggestions, corrections, or additions please PM me on my profile. "We few, we happy few, we band of brothers!"