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It shouldn't be popping and crackling on the over-run.check the throttle stop screws for tampering. Valve lash should be 4 & 6 thou inlet and exhaust. When removing the plug caps to get the rocker covers off use a long, thin screwdriver through the cooling tunnel above the exhaust manifold to lever the caps off from underneath. Do not tug at them from the top. Before even thinking about touching the throttlebodies check that the paint on especially the left hand stop screw is intact. If it isn't you need to be able to connect diagnostic tooling, (ie Guzzidiag) to check the TPS value. If you're lucky it won't of been re-set and you'll be able to simply physically adjust the reading back to 4.8 degrees before starting the tune up. If the paint has been gouged out of the screw and it has been obviously fiddled with but the TPS value is at 4.8 then it most likely has been recalibrated and you're about to enter a world of pain trying to get it right again. The fact you say it vibrates as well as popping and farting on the overrun doesn't fill me with confidence but hopefully, if it has been shaved aped it will be able to be unfucked with diligence and care.

OK. This I can understand. Fuses 6 and 7 power the parking lights and direction indicators and are turned on by the ignition switch that feeds them from contact 2 on the ignition switch. So, when you turn off the ignition switch, they should stop working. What has confused us is that the rest keeps working. But this is understandable because it is only the wiring from contact 3 of the ignition switch that is being kept on by the fault short-circuit between the Red/Black wire coming from the Lights mini-relay. Since this is fed directly from the battery via Fuse 4, it doesn't go through the ignition switch, and so this fault can keep this circuit working until you pull in the clutch and press the starter. At this point it de-energises the lights relay and interrupts this faulty supply. So this is all consistent with there being a fault between the red/black wire from the lights relay and the Orange/blue wire from the ignition switch that goes to the starter and the Neutral Gear mini-relays as well as to the front dashboard 12-way Amp connector to power the neutral lamp. So i really think we have it nailed. Disconnect the ends of these wires at the relays, ignition switch, side-stand switch and 12-way connector. Test between them to prove they are shorted. If they are then run new wires, sleeve them, replace the terminals and reconnect and tie them neatly in parallel with the harness to take their place. Let me know how you get on.

That is how I learn

Link to the thread: I usually encounter the Donnie Darko rabbit or Brer rabbit in the rabbit hole as opposed to the more cuddly rabbit brother from my childhood; consequent aversion.

Ok, everybody that wants one, send me an email to 59dot chuck at G mail dot com (I don't know if that stops robots or not) or a PM with your name and snail mail address. When I get 10 I'll order stock. From a different supplier. They just gave me a royal hosing on shipping and fondling charges on my last order.

The Terblanche SSs make cool street fighter projects IMO. I need to be more upright to be comfortable with that tank to seat ratio. The Tamburini SSs though, look perfect to my eyes. I think it’s like a poor boys 851. I’ve just never ridden one. Somebody mentioned Il Monstro, the early 94-00 900s with the good heads definitely get a look too. @Lowryter, you SS is poetry in motion but I’d have to sell my three bikes to have one and I just like having a vintage bike around!

I have the new SS 939. Unfortunately, I've sustained some substantial damage to the exhaust system by encountering road debris. I've posted some photos and description on Wild Guzzi. Right now I am hopeful the cracked replacing the front header from ebay take off flange can be welded ground out. The muffler and bracketry have been replaced. I'll say that Duc SS 939 ranks top for anything I've owned or ridden. The only nit with the bike, it "only" has 110HP. It's light, comfortable, it brakes and handles better than anything I've ridden. It's also beautiful and has factory saddle bags. I've ridden the 2nd generation SS version that Phil has and found the riding position very extreme. Much more a full-on sportbike rather than a touring sport bike like the 939. The 939 is actually little more touring oriented than the V11. But it has 110 hp and is 100 lbs lighter and rides incredibly well. I just wish mine was on the road again.

Hi, While re-reading Phil's post one more thing came to mind. The throttle bodies, when fastened to the braces, are not well seated in the rubber thingies (can't remember the correct term). In other words, the screws and threads in the braces don't align well. They can be forced in, but then the throttle bodies sit slightly twisted in the rubber boots (ha, memory came to the rescue). Enlarged screw holes and regular cylindrical inbus screws seating on top of the braces allow for installation without tension and offer the benefit of screw heads which won't self-destroy during the next time the TBs are removed. Cheers Meinolf PS I'll post a picture when back in Germany. Just now I'm living the good life in a cafe in the old town of Limassol on Cyprus, visiting my mate's daughter and the first grandchild

This a 2013 with the big tank and the roller tappets. 20,000ks on the clock so just about run in. I will get it on the Guzidiag some time in the next month to check the mapping after I have been through the rest of the bike. The vibration is not major and could just be the tyres ( new Shinko 705s) on the highway. It is just the California has zero vibration. (The Cal is a pig to move about under 4kph, As it wants to lie down and is impossible if you park it down hill, but otherwise once rolling is a great cruiser!). No insulting my Mule! On the Stelvio, when delivered they had changed the oil but overfilled it well above the dipstick with the result that When they had subsequently run it, some oil had migrated into the air box as was evidenced by oil coming out of the drain tube. I dropped the oil level to about 75% on the dipstick and cleaned out the small amount of oil in the air box while checking for air box holes as advised by the Oracle - Pete Roper, but I did wonder if there is an air flow meter or oxygen sensor on the intake air side that might get fouled by the excess oil? If so this might explain the popping on deceleration. All suggestions gratefully received. Now have to set the tappets and check the gearbox and CARC oil Then take it for a trip to the North part of Vancouver island before thinking about Fuel mapping. here is the Stelvio and for comparison also the California during last month’s 2000k trip around central BC. It may be a big lummox of a bike but it performed flawlessly. all for now.

I recall sitting on a carb 900SS and it didn't feel like that extreme of a riding position.

02 sensor is not connected on my 03 RC, and using a 15M ECU with Meinolf's mapping. Meaning she is running very well. Since I have a spare 15RC, I do it out of curiosity and for fun. Cheers tom.

About a week out and I see I started the Sport's shakedown three months ago and have ridden it over 2700 miles. About as ready as it can possibly be and properly separated from the Waddington Effect (unwanted outcomes from my messing with it ). I told a buddy that if I didn't saddle up and head out next week she would probably sprout a cortex and leave without me! SpineRaiders are looking to number 10-14 for this S'xteenth South'n. Y'all ride well, ya hear?