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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/06/2020 in all areas

  1. You should try and see how much load is on the system, lights, battery etc. This would involve a current measurement which is a little tricky if you don't have a clamp meter. See if any fuses are warm also. Sometimes a lot of heat can be generated from loose/coroded connectors.
    3 points
  2. They look like bloody great resistors to me. Probably there to try to balance the load to (try) to keep the flash rate correct (as you already stated) and balance the circuit loads to keep the overall resistance (and thereby current flow) the same I dislike resistors they waste power and just get hot. However, that said, if they're already there and haven't melted anything, then I'd just keep them in. From the picture it looks reasonably neat so if it aint broke don't fix it. I do apologize I need to read the first post more thoroughly in future I was under the (mistaken) impression you were wanting to ditch the resistors. Providing the new LEDs don't consume vastly more power, and I doubt they would, then it should all work just fine. Should you want to junk them later then diodes are the way to go, tiny in comparison, no heat and more efficient. Wiring them into the turn signal warn light though is a faff (well it was on the Sporti and Daytona), so why give yourself the trouble
    3 points
  3. A separate question. On the top of my rear shock is a 10mm long bolt. It secures the top of the shock and has about 15mm of threaded bolt sticking out on the left side but there is no lock nut on it. There are yellow paint marks on the end of the threaded section, so my question is should there be a lock nut or castellated nut on the end of this bolt? Yes,šŸ¤” I think a Nyloc is in order. Canā€™t do any harm and one less thing to think about while tooling along at speeds close to but not over the posted limit!
    2 points
  4. Just that curious bronze patina our pipes offer us from running her hard (but never putting her away wet!).
    2 points
  5. 2 points
  6. Done the tappets and now set to 4&6 thou. They were a little bit wider than that but not a huge amount. The throttle cables were slack as a wellie boot top, with about 20 degrees of ā€œfree playā€ before the twist grip did anything, so I took the slack out at the handlebars end, which has made rolling off and on a lot easier. The paint on the left hand throttle stop is intact, and I pulled the two sensors on the throttle bodies and cleaned them with carb cleaner, in case fouled with oil from the over enthusiastic ā€œRed Sealā€ mechanic who changed it at the selling dealer. Just on that the gearbox was also a little overfilled. Not significantly, but I dropped it down to the hole. On the vibration front I dropped the tyre pressures to 28/32 fro the 36/39 in the book and the vibration has gone! The popping on engine breaking is still there, but right now I will treat it as a ā€œfeatureā€œ. Otherwise the bike goes very well with lively acceleration and good handling. I will admit that it is an order of magnitude better than the Cal in these departments and the Cal could more than hold its own in class. So the last check will be Guzzidiag, once I can get ahold of a copy from a fellow Stelvio owner who has both the cables and the right program etc. I will report back when this is done. I have a set of cables but no windows computer right now! On a separate note, what is the perceived wisdom for the Traction Control on gravel? On or Off? I have tried both and found that with it ON the bike bunny hops on corduroy and with it OFF the back end squirts about a bit; but generally I liked it OFF better for gravel but so far only a short test. I have not as yet tried turning on and off the ABS so could do with some guidance on that one too. thanks in advance M.
    2 points
  7. Thanks Pete. One less thing to think about.
    1 point
  8. Well the reg converts excess output into heat but how much heat is the question. Sound a little too hot to me but others would have a better idea. BTW everyone these days should have a temp gun in the home/garage, you know those hand gun style thermometers you point the infared dot at and it tells you the temp of the part or even person you are pointing it at. This way you could tell us all the exact temp it is and we could compare it to our units. I use mine all the time esp in these Corona days. They cost bugger all to buy now so everyone needs one. You have your orders:) Ciao
    1 point
  9. Thanks, Weegie, very helpful. The assembly was previously ty-wrapped behind the headlight bucket. With a jumper, I think I can incorporate everything inside the headlight shell, there's plenty of space. The blinkers are operational for brief periods, so I don't think too much heat and the LED headlight bulb does not give off much. I did replace the flasher relay with an electronic unit a when I first got the bike which solved the rapid flash problem. Don't know if the addition of the resistors by the PO was to curtail the 4-way flash affliction, but they were obviously okay with the rapid flashing which rendered them ineffectual. I appreciate your time and patience in responding.
    1 point
  10. No nut is fitted to the top bolt ex factory.
    1 point
  11. 1984 R45 specific valve tool/spoke wrench. Paul B
    1 point
  12. My vote would be NyLoc self-locking nut. Good find, there, LangleyMalc! That would make me keep looking . . .
    1 point
  13. I love the way the way @v11_meticcio looks ready to leap into the air, spread its wings, and soar down through that lovely valley . . .
    1 point
  14. Thatā€™s a moving display of moto-art. Docc, for all of the great pics of your lovely V11 that Iā€™ve had the pleasure of seeing, this is first time Iā€™ve wondered if your head pipes are ceramic coated? Kind of looks that way here, but light can play tricks.
    1 point
  15. You know I'm warming to these a lot. It's not often you see a GT style bike that actually still looks good with cases fitted. These days 110 hp on the road is plenty for me. Ciao
    1 point
  16. GM, the first think I did to my 939 was install a 14T front sprocket ($20) (15T is stock). Woke the bike right up, it was pretty doggy before hand. The bikes have a close ratio transmission with a tall first gear and short top gear, no overdrive, no need to downshift to pass: pass a semi at 80 and get around him at 120.
    1 point
  17. I have the new SS 939. Unfortunately, I've sustained some substantial damage to the exhaust system by encountering road debris. I've posted some photos and description on Wild Guzzi. Right now I am hopeful the cracked replacing the front header from ebay take off flange can be welded ground out. The muffler and bracketry have been replaced. I'll say that Duc SS 939 ranks top for anything I've owned or ridden. The only nit with the bike, it "only" has 110HP. It's light, comfortable, it brakes and handles better than anything I've ridden. It's also beautiful and has factory saddle bags. I've ridden the 2nd generation SS version that Phil has and found the riding position very extreme. Much more a full-on sportbike rather than a touring sport bike like the 939. The 939 is actually little more touring oriented than the V11. But it has 110 hp and is 100 lbs lighter and rides incredibly well. I just wish mine was on the road again.
    1 point
  18. Both Italian? I fired up my Ducati yesterday. It's eerily smooth although it sounds like it should shake. There is a big difference between the 90 and the 45. My brother is selling the V11 Sport (it's on eBay) as he prefers his Ducati. Having ridden his I can see the appeal. Revs to the moon and feels a lot lighter. But I'll stay with the Guzzi because it's a little rough and pudgy, like me.
    1 point
  19. I don't have an SS, but I have a M900 which... is sort of like an SS with no bodywork... if you close one eye and squint šŸ˜‚ The Ducati is significantly lighter. The Guzzi is significantly easier to do a valve adjustment on. šŸ˜‚ I like 'em both. Someday, I hope to get my Ducati back on the road (its been sitting too long for various reasons non-bike-related, and now needs some good TLC to get back into proper order). The V11S is the bike I would never sell, though. __Jason
    1 point
  20. About a week out and I see I started the Sport's shakedown three months ago and have ridden it over 2700 miles. About as ready as it can possibly be and properly separated from the Waddington Effect (unwanted outcomes from my messing with it ). I told a buddy that if I didn't saddle up and head out next week she would probably sprout a cortex and leave without me! SpineRaiders are looking to number 10-14 for this S'xteenth South'n. Y'all ride well, ya hear?
    1 point
  21. Love it! i'll head down to napa and get one right away, and carry it in the V11 road tool kit :-> i've got a soft spot for Alfa's, "peculiar" as they are. I spent the summer when i was 15 in italy tooling around in a 2.0 quadrifoglio (sp?), with an uncle who lived there and was insane enough to let me behind the wheel, so he could smoke and cue up his music on what was then a state of the art stereo (mostly Mario Lanza, Buddy Holly, and John Denver). All that espresso and nicotine formed an "elder" family member who should have been saying "slow down kid", and instead was saying "faster!"
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Most reliable product Alfa ever made!
    1 point
  24. We've got a meth-head so screwed up , he stole all the wrought iron fences around the ( extremely old ) family graveyards around here .
    0 points
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