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My Ballabio in the mountains in Northern Colorado, smoke and wildfires cut short the ride. Hope everyone is hanging in there in these strange times, take care. T

I have responded to Chuck on mail. I thought mail was a proper platform for one-to-one chat. Come on folks! We need this stuff[emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The same here. We’re almost there! Let’s shift this puppy into high gear!

They are tiny. I'll walk down to the shop and get my welding tip cleaners to use as a gauge.. Edit: Ok, I'm back. Hope you have a really small drill set. Mine is .018".

Thank you very much you nailed it!!!!! A view weeks ago i changed my throttle cable, to get there i had to loosen the brake lever slightly. When tightening, the cable has become trapped between the two sides of the bracket and this caused a short circuit between the red/black wire and the white wire. So the problem is found!! Now i got to think of a way to fix this neatly. There is a very little space to de-solder the wires and solder them neatly again. (The wires are long enough)

Luckily the starter decided to give up the ghost two weeks ago. I had a spare ready and waiting so all should be well.

The best way of thinking about what is happening is to think of the way you would arrange for a relay to latch itself ON and not turn off. The way this is achieved is to connect up the contacts so that if you energise the coil, it switches connects a live (12V) feed to the side of the coil being energised. So, when the initial coil energisation is removed, the relay stays energised directly from the battery. This is what is happening on the V11. The lights are connected directly to the battery; they don't go through the ignition switch but, if everything works correctly, the ignition switch energises the lights relay and this switches on the lights and off when the ignition is switched off. What is happening is that a short circuit between this circuit and the output of the ignition switch is keeping the lights ON AND energising the output of the ignition switch and keeping the engine running. In effect it is just like the simple latching relay circuit. And the only way to switch it off is to interrupt the coil current which pulling in the clutch and pressing the starter button does. In fact, if I'm right, you don't need the tank and to start and run the engine to get this effect. Just switch on the ignition. The lights will come on but if you switch off the ignition, the lights will stay on. Assuming this happens, I think you can be confident it is a short between the red/black wire and the Orange/blue wire that is causing the problem. Now, your comment that if you disconnect the 5-way everything works OK is also interesting. The red/black wire goes through pin 4, but the Orange/Blue wire that goes to contact 3 of the ignition switch does not. However, if if you have the side-stand down, the Orange/Blue wire could be falsely energised if there was a short-circuit between the red/Black and the white wire that goes between the Neutral gear relay and the 5-way connector and this also connects to the White/brown of pin 2 of the 5-way if the run-stop switch is closed. This would imply that the fault between these two wires is not in the long harness down the spine of the bike to the relays in the rear but in the wiring and switches of the RH handlebar controls, either in the 5-way connector, the wiring or the control switches themselves. This is good news. Can you put a meter across the various pins in the 5-way connector when it is disconnected? I'd specifically look to see what pin 4 (Red/black) seems to be connected to. It should connect to pin 5 if you collapse the side-stand, but should not connect to any of the other 3 wires. My expectation is that you will find a spurious connection between the red/black on pin 4 and the adjacent White/ Brown of pin 2 or possibly the white wire of pin 1 that are connected together by putting the kill switch into the RUN position. If so you then need to work out if the problem is a fault in the RH handlebar switches, in the connector or the wiring between them.

Hi, Paul6506! Looks like you are just north of I-40 about 20 miles northeast of Knoxville. Not sure who is traveling in from that direction. Slip down to Tellico Plains for a visit!

Another Eagle, has landed near by , and I sort of know the guy, 1 more ordered. Cheers tom.

Yep. I mixed up my "Toms" . . . Looks all good now. Thanks for all the replies!

Finally drank the relay Kool-Aid. I've decided to hold onto all 10, though, as I like the idea of having spares on-hand, and eventually doing pre-emptive replacements at some point down the road. __Jason

All I have to say is that if you've never ridden a Ducati do it at least once. That being said there is something more visceral about the V11 Sport. Which is saying something considering the opposition.

Yes when I caught up on the thread I thought that might have happened. Would never have happened to me of course, I'm to much of a "one tracker" as my wife keeps reminding me:) No side roads and one catastrophe at a time, then move onto the next. That's me. Ciao

You are correct Lucky Phil and thank you. I should have done that first, but got side tracked with a number of the items that were related to the starter issue, mainly getting to the ignition and taking that apart. But thank you again for your help - much appreciated!

You know, in an incoherent Guzzi electrical engineer sort of way (now there's a contradiction in terms!), grounding via the oil pressure switch makes sense. If there is oil pressure, no need for the starter. Thus, if the light is out, either the sender or the bulb is DOA. Note: mid 60s Ducati 250s had a mystery toggle switch on the taillight bracket. No one ever figured out what it did. Oddly, a guy on the Kawi EX500 forum advised me: That designer must have taught Guzzi a few tricks.

When in doubt look at the shop manual. Looks like you have an earlier owners manual. The transition of components for Guzzi isn't a hard line and so neither will be the owners manuals. Ciao

I'm in Strawberry Plains Tenn Will anyone be riding by my area?

That's 9. I imagine someone else will show up. I'll start looking for a new supplier. $68 to ship a three pound 4 foot long box with a piece of 1/32" plywood in it.. That was the last straw. They can stick their shipping and fondling charges up their

So far I have: Cliff Kane (2) David Burrows Vic Dickinson Jan Jonsson Jan Hammershang Pat Cowden Tom Bennett (2)

Interestingly, this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2004-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Ballabio-Complete-Front-Fork-GU01490280/362402336724?epid=13021999341&hash=item5460dccfd4:g:M5QAAOSwyglbYOlK Shows the same... both forks are marked "R" only: Not sure that really solves anything, but... 🤷‍♂️ __Jason

35 mm of sag is more of a "common" number people try to achieve. It doesn't just happen. It will depend on what springs you have....what fork oil you are running....and fork settings. They are different for everyone. If Docc has his sport set to 35mm of sag and I get on his bike, sag will be about 70mm.Docc is about 170 soaking wet and I am about 230 dry (pounds).Anyone who has ridden my bike says it seems harsh and stiff. Probably is for them but its really good to me. So ....were you able to turn the middle section? if yes, how many turns did it go. And if it was 3-4 turns then that may mean that is your C adjustment. Which also means you might have to take the top cap off to put in a shorter spacer per some commit I made earlier. Maybe Roper will chime in later as to what forks you might have. I'm betting they are Marz just a different model. and we will figure out what to do. if you do pull a top cap off be sure the weight is off the front. thats all I have for now

what does the manual say about the larger center nut ?....maybe that is the compression adjustment.

The top of that fork almost looks like you can adjust preload by turning the bigger middle nut...19 mm in size maybe. The smaller screwdriver blade adjustment is for compression and/or rebound. Those fork top caps a very different from the earlier V11 Marzzochi forks. Looks like the top piece with the C / R adjustment is mounted in another piece that has flats on it like a nut, which may be you preload. I would assume that the largest area with flats that would accept a wrench or socket is the top cap of the fork tube itself. If you have a way of taking weight off the frontend, you might do so and see if you can turn "the middle nut "CC wise which should soften/give more sag.

Thanks, As far as I know they are stock. Not the gold Ohlins like on the Corsa models. 2 owners before me. First added a power commander. Next changed nothing. maybe the left cap is wrong cap but it adjusts compression. sorry my pictures are poor. It won’t let me upload over 200k

Unless someone else chimes in about a 2005 model year LeMans, you should have left tube C right tube R. Do you know the history of this bike? Has someone replaced a component because of an accident? Unfortunately to set preload you will have to try different length spacers under the top fork nut. Specifically, you will want a shorter spacer than what is in there now. Andy

Sì, sono bellissime e staranno benissimo sulla V11 Yes they are beautiful and will look great on the V11 Pubblica alcune foto della tua V11 quando puoi. Post some photos of your V11 when you can di che anno sono le marmitte Triumph? È una R? what year Triumph are the mufflers from? Is it an R?

Seems that Vic, footgoose, VeeEleven, and maybe one other have responded from this list. @Kane ? @Tomchri ? @hammershaug ? @doslemans ?

Grazie Footgoose. Mi sa che li prenderò e poi saranno dolori per adattarli, però sono bellissimi.

pure gold

Wow 3 pages of pulling the bike apart and I had the answer in the second post. As I said then, if the wire hasn't fallen off the switch and the light comes on if you ground the switch wire and turn the ignition on then its the switch. Ciao

It is apparently a V11 CAFE SPORT US 2004, so hat's off to you @footgoose. So what are the big differences? I have a carbon front fender, carbon side covers and the full Ohlins set-up front and rear. The matching gold wheels also appear to be original. Is it primarily cosmetic and limited production? Honestly, I assumed it was an RC based on the paint.

Many thanks Docc and gstallons! I'll let you know if the be switch solves the problem. Seems like it must be it.

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=GU17768750 $10.90US ! For another $1.84, I added this sealing boot over the connector: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_209&products_id=315

+1 Bad switch.

Yes . you should get 12v at this wire with KOEO . If so , ground this lead and your light should be on . If it is , the oil pressure switch is bad .

Ok, so when I connect a grounded wire to the disconnected oil pressure switch wire, I get the bulb to light with key on engine off! Progress! Make sure the connection to the switch is clean and treated. Also, there should be continuity from the switch connection to the engine case with the engine off.

The tiny T5 sockets have rather fragile connectors in them. Have a look at a known good socket and chances are that the oil light socket contacts are dirty or bent out of shape. Carefully reshape them using a dental pick if you have one and do a live test. Some of the pressure exerted by the contacts on the bulb is caused by the rubber socket being squeezed into the gauge receptacle. With the key on, sometimes you can squeeze the socket and the bulb will light. As I found out, LEDs are polarized and if they don't light up, flipping them side-for-side or end-for-end will solve the problem. EDIT: Oh, joy! No ground. Now to consult the plate of spaghetti wiring diagram? Is the blue a common ground?

I found out about this man about 9 mos. ago while I was in CD warehouse at Cape Girardeau . Playing through the speakers was what sounded like a garage band playing Shake Your Moneymaker . As crummy as the recording was , I purchased the copy from the store and listened to this racket EVER since. Peter Green's Fleetwood Mac at the Marquee Club . Unfortunately , he passed away July 25 of this year . His music ( and I have worn YouTube out ) is/was/will always be some of the best ever recorded . I am sorry I did not post a video , but I can't find one good enough to post w/out deciding "this one is better" . RIP , Peter Green .