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Got out for an extended ride on the "new" to me "new" '02 LM. Beautiful weather finally has arrived. Tipped the ODO over to 2650 miles. She's tight and runs like a good sewing machine.

Hibernation time around the corner, snow plow markers up,, ALREADY. Or just happy for another season. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

No, don't sacrifice another lovely old T3 on the altar of this obscene, masurbatory, cult. If you have to build some pretend POS 'Cafe Racer' just buy some shitty Chinese copy of a 1980's Japanese single. It'll look the part when you're sitting at your stall selling your pomade and beard grooming products and all the pissants you're trying to impress will flock like moths around a flame. Just leave the old Guzzis alone. Please.

I get what you guys are saying. To take social media culture “self-publishing” to the extreme, I am really tired of seeing pics/vids of what people are eating for breakfast! That being said, he’s doing his honor to the marque, and I bet it’s a fun-as-hell bike to ride. It makes me wish that I had a carbed Tonti to rebuild! For your average Joe, who doesn’t have the skills and resources to do the heavy stuff that some people can do, this is a nice example of what can be easily managed and he seems proud and happy, so OK.

Well the upside to that is its cheap and easy for you to scratch that itch:) Ciao

Bottom line for me is it's more beautiful and desirable than almost any new bike available at any dealer showroom in the past 15+ years - period.

Just perfect!

Corbin, way better than stock, I think. 240m today, no problem with the a. IPA time Cheers tom.

So here's another trap for the rookie, OR the experienced that gets led in a particular direction and doesn't do his due diligence.The cam support on the R/H cylinder has had a tiny,tiny annoying leak since I put it together. The sort of leak thats just a minor annoyance to be honest but seeing I had the tank off replacing the throttle bodies I thought I might as well look at it. Its a PITA on this bike as the engine needs to be supported and the front subframe unbolted and swung forward and the r/h header pipe removed to get the belt cover off. Then loosen the cam belt and remove the cam pulley and then remove the cam support. Anyway I had a suspicion I had used the incorrect oring on one side, I thought I may have used the fractionally smaller rocker cover plug hole oring so I got the support off and measured the installed oring ID against a spare I had and yes it looked to be under sized. Great I thought that's the issue. I did my usual cursory look at the associated parts as usual but not hard enough I suspect. Anyway all back together but still have this tiny leak. Very frustrating. So lets get out the 2 spares I have and do a dye pen check. Results below. Moral of the story................. look beyond the obvious and check EVERYTHING. Seems porosity isn't unheard of on these supports and right in the oring groove. Ciao

Now you're trackin' ... I wish I were his age, riding that thing to the local vino-formaggio on Friday night in Mandello del Lario with a copy of Farwell to Arms in my pocket. Another itch, another upside

Hey everyone, New member here. Hope you guys are good and fine .

Funny I had to ask you..lol..Corbin Factory is about 70 miles from my house and I have ridden over there a few times to have them build seats for me, they have a ride up service...Mike Corbin is an awesome guy as well.. Looks great on your bike!!

IIRC, no red-frames came from the factory with black valve covers, so these were probably replaced or refinished by a previous owner. __Jason

Pete, so how long have you been hanging around the west side of L.A.?

Like a BMW? That doesn't seem right at all! 😂 __Jason

Decent enough, but the V11 Tonti café was more my cup of Java. And the (apparently) lightened flywheel allowed it to rev crazy quick.

I had similar problems - too much weight on the wrists. These are expensive but solved the problem.: DÄS Mototec Handlebars ... or the Griso

I was looking back through some pictures the other day to find how I'd mounted the engine on the Great Lakes.. I'd forgotten the details, of course.. but the whole airplane is scratch built. It took a little more than a few hours with an angle grinder, btw..

New battery, new fuel pump, new relays, first ride, second ride, third ride. Funnily enough, relevant to posts above, took advice off here to buy omrons, and tried to start it with new fuel pump before I put them in. Could hear bosch relay clicking away, but pump not working put new ones in and all peachy. Took a while to clear injectors out, but a tank full of clean gas and some gentle throttle and it soon cleared up to steady tickover and smooth running thru the rev range, after about ten minutes all the stutters gone. Was going to put it away as paperwork etc, but it was such a nice night I had to take another spin to make sure clean fuel thru, then thought I should take it out again just to make sure. First impression, surprisingly flat at low revs, but stonking over 5k. Rolling chassis is gorgeous, quite shocked I am, at least the gear change is kind of notchy going into first to remind me what I am riding. Reckon the Cali is going to be getting jealous.

Yeah, the first time I saw the valve covers off of a Guzzi engine, I thought, "airplane. That sucker is sturdy.."

docc, MartyNZ & Kiwi Roy (our resident electrical consultant) have nailed it I'm not sure about your running light statement and fail to understand it. On my computer the link to the wiring diagram is also broken. It's due to the rather Heath Robinson (if you know who he is) circuit that Guzzi used linking the circuit for the warning bulb, it's quite clever and works if you don't change anything but if you modify it, then strange things happen Everything will work with the warning light removed as you state. If you want to use LED indicators then you'll need to replace the flasher relay with an electronic unit or resistors. Resistors are horrible and a bit hit and miss, besides the flasher unit will probably cost less than 4 resistors (which may or may not work, at least on first try) If you want the warning light to work as well as the electronic relay you'll need to modify the warning light circuit too. You can try the back to back LED trick, I've never tried that but it should work for the warning light. What I did when replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs on both a Sport and a Daytona (the wiring circuits are the same for the V11) was to use Roy's 3rd sketch. You disconnect both wires going to the warning light. Then solder in Diodes the sliver ring on the Diode should point toward the warning light (or away from the exisitng wire). Join then the 2 diodes, or the wires leading from the diodes, together and connect them to the non blocking side of the LED warning light (easy to test that, try one side if it doesn't work try the other) Make a direct connection to earth on the other side of the LED. Roy's 3rd diagram shows it in diagram form which is easier to understand. This just came up on a similar post https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22088-turn-indicators-aspire-to-4way-flashers/ My LED dash on the Daytona (I should have cleaned it up a little before making the video)

Side wings installed! Ridiculously expensive decals from Italy: Ready for clear coat! Complete: