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Here is what happens when the engine was run with the Griso spring in

You can sort of figure out the series resistor value of an LED. A small one like an idiot light draws about 10 milliamps (you can measure it), the LED has ~ 3 Volts across it so you need to drop 9 Volts. 9 / 0.01 = 900 Ohms, that would be the minimum in reality it could be much higher like 1-10 K Ohms, you really need to read the specs to figure it out. Back to the topic When you put the "controle light" in the socket, does it light at all? If not its shorting the socket out and all four flashers are getting power, this happened to me also, as a temporary fix I snipped one side off the wire contacts. If the lamps on one side are working correctly but the other side are flashing dimly its because the current the "controle light" draws is enough to make them work, then you need to change the wiring a little as per my sketch No 3, The back to back diodes prevent the signal from going to the opposite side. Any small diodes will do they only carry a few milliamps the other side of the "controle light" goes to chassis. I found the old file under the topic Main Switch Fuse Blows Sorry about the poor resolution, I took a picture of the screen because it was messed up by photo bucket.

It is difficult to measure resistance of LED lamps & incandescent bulbs. Incandescent bulb resistance depends on temperature, and will be very low if it is not glowing. LEDs generally have infinite resistance in reverse connection, and will only begin to allow you to measure forward resistance above a certain voltage. That's why some multimeters have a dedicated diode test function. The electrical difference between LED lamps & incandescent bulbs is mostly about current draw. LEDs have other advantages too, but lets stick to current. If you hook 12 volts to a 25 watt incandescent bulb then it draws about 2 amps. The actual current depends on filament temperature; hotter temp = higher resistance = lower current. If you hook 12 volts to a 6 watt LED Lamp, then it draws about 0.5 amps. This lower current makes the original flasher unit flash at the wrong speed, so a common work-around is to add a resistor in parallel with the LED so the combined resistor and LED draw 2 amps. Some aftermarket LEDs are marked "error free" and have the parallel resistor inside. This avoids an error from modern vehicles which detect the low current and interpret this as a blown bulb. The parallel resistor shouldn't be confused with a voltage dropping series resistor which is hooked in line with the LED and is hidden inside the lamp socket. LEDs usually run on 2 or 3 volts, and 12 v would destroy them, so the series resistor is hooked in line to drop 9 or 10 volts. So, if I found extra parallel resistors on my bike, I'd remove them after fitting an electronic flasher.

Pretty much docc. The first Daytona engines didn't have the Carrillo rods and had different pistons a slightly heavier crank and the P8 ecu. Then all the Centauros and the later Daytonas, including the RS's had the Carrillos, later pistons and the 16M ecu. The only difference between the the Centauros and later NON Singapore, Swiss and US versions was different hotter cams. The Centauro's and Swiss,US and Singapore Datyona RS's were identical spec. Ciao

Well I finally found mine ....... they are everything and more than what I expected IMHO Wishing you luck on your quest. Ciao

Shit Pete............ we gotta have a pop one day.

The thing I like the most docc is the way the carbs hang down off the cylinder heads like some piece of ripe fruit ready to fall off I don't have any particular aversion to the bike itself, its just another backyard hack job on an old bike that produced a backyard hack job outcome. Have we all lost sight of the fact that just about every English Rocker/ Cafe racer back in the 60's did this sort of thing to his Triumph,BSA,Norton in the front room of some old bed sit in Liverpool or Birmingham. The only thing that's changed is now people seem to think its worth making a video about and others are "amazed" buy it's" awesomness". Seems we have regressed somehow, today we are amazed and awed by what was routine and everyday back in the 60's. Ciao

It only goes 4mph

Its just be aware that there are a few mechanical issues you need to address with the Centauro engine that are costly and need to be done to save it from total destruction at some point. So the oil pump needs to be replaced and the alloy cam and oil pump gears are must do items. The gears have a nasty habit of failing and the oil pump stops and then the big ends fail. The oil pump was never fitted with a proper bushing for the gear shaft and wears badly. The V11 pump and chain drive are the most economical option. The Joe Caruso steel gears and oil pump are the "gold standard" fix. As a guide if I was buying a 50,000klm old Centi I'd be budgeting on needing to spend a minimum of around $2000 USD on the engine in parts if its still stock standard and has been well maintained. It will still be running fine but as I said the oil pump and cam drive need to be updated and the lifters will all be failing at that mileage and they are around $230usd each. My total engine rebuild doing all the work myself has probably cost around 8 to $10,000 USD in new parts collected over a 10 year period. That's the reality of it. Ciao