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Yes that would work but not so nice as adding two small diodes LEDs are diodes as well, thats why it only works properly for one direction, if you flip it around it works for the other direction Add 2 diodes and run it to chassis and the current is always going the right direction through the dash LED, it cannot get to the wrong side lamps because it's blocked by the other diode.

I have one of those oil temperature dipsticks on my Griso. It was an interesting tool for teaching me exactly how cool the 8V motor generally runs but apart from that it's pretty useless. In reality it's just a bit of bling. As for the V11? Unless there is something grotesquely wrong with it it's never likely to seriously overheat. With regard to a pressure gauge it's easy enough to mount one using a splitter that can be screwed into the original hole the pressure switch goes into. Using a splitter allows you to keep the original light which is a good thing as its far more likely to be noticed than a gauge. Having said that, I'm with Phil. Chances are if you fit a gauge all it will do is frighten you! Idle pressure on a hot engine is pathetically low! The switch at least only illuminates the light at something pathetic like 5PSI but at idle, when hot, the pressure probably won't be much above that! I had both a pressure and temperature gauge on my old SP 1000 simply because it came with them and I fitted a pressure gauge to my little hot-rod I built back in the nineties to try and identify why it kept torching it's big ends! The answer turned out to be that at a certain point close to 10,000 rpm indicated, (By the Vague-Liar tacho, nothing more sophisticated.) the oil pump would cavitate and pressure would drop to almost zero! Not really surprising it had an appetite for big ends! That engine had a 70mm crank with 4mm overlength Carillo rods, specially made forged pistons to get the CR where I wanted it, a stupid cam, Ti pushrods and a whole host of other crap. 40mm Carbs, a lightweight clutch assembly and worked through a low ratio, straight cut ZD gearbox and 7/33 final drive. When I'd got it as right as I could it made 84 rear wheel HP out of 891cc @ 9,800 rpm! And while I think the Dyno was a bit optimistic I reckoned that was pretty good for a 10,000 rpm ditchpump! The thing was after all that time, effort and money I picked up a bone stock, low mileage SP1000 and it was an infinitely more enjoyable bike to ride!😂 I eventually squarefined the motor for a bit more capacity but it was never as much fun as it was as an 891. Shortly after I finished it's squarefin transformation I bought one of the first Griso 1100's to come into Australia. It did everything the hot rod did only better and more reliably and had the benefits of modern suspension, chassis and brakes. Two years after that I bought my current 8V Griso, wrecked out the hot rod and the rest is history, I became an Eight Valve Evangelist and while that engine may of suffered from the flat tappet fiasco its never had any oil pressure, or temperature, problems!😝

You can buy a dedicated magnets for the oil filter. Its called a Filtermag. I run one each on the two "nice" cars I have. More useful during break in I think when there is a lot of wear particles coming off piston rings. They cant hurt but no good on a Guzzi internal filter. just buy yourself a nice anodised 19mm drain mag plug off Ebay like I have on my engine. Cheap as chips and effective. Two Blue mag plugs on sump Ciao

1 kg/cm2 John is .9806 bar so close enough for me to 1/1. Mine has a "5" stamped on it but produced closer to 3-4 on the bench, for what air testing is worth. Truth is that both engines will survive happily on 50-60 ish max as road engines. If I was racing one and it was turning 6-9000 rpm most of the time I'd think it was prudent to go to the Griso spring for a little head room at the top end. The path down this oil pressure black hole,lol which has opened up a whole lot of interesting learnings and knowledge which I genuinely enjoy originated when you had a LOP indication in traffic due in part to high oil temp. So the major issue here is to get some head room at the bottom end for hot traffic conditions so you don't get into the uncomfortable position of the oil light coming on in these situations. Not that it's a big issue idling because you can verify things are ok by a blip of the throttle and if the light goes out then all is fine. Even at the 4 psi LOP light switch threshold you'll have enough oil pressure at idle.However it is not something you want happening to distract you in heavy traffic. The easiest solution for the low end pressure is to run a XXW-60 oil at the upper end of the grade tolerance. The other pathways are the Griso spring which seems to work or in your bikes case to try and keep the oil temp down which is mainly due to I believe the full fairings it runs, something you are working on. For V11 owners all this info could still be useful at some point if you have oil pressure issues or questions. Personally the std V11 system seems adequate to the task but a higher rated oil pump and/or a Griso spring would be a nice upgrade to provide plenty of pressure head room esp for the later models with the oil squirter holes for the pistons. Ciao

"If' I was to install an oil temp and oil pressure gauge on my V11, are there locations which would be preferable both mechanically and logistically?

In general aviation, only two words describe what the gauges will subsequently tell you: "dead stick." Generally speaking, landings are then much more interesting.

Went to the advertised garage sale this morning. The above poster was huge and already sold. But the seller, a known motorcycle publications author by the name of Todd Rafferty, confirmed that the pictured scooter is indeed Italian, namely a '50s era Gilera. Goes to show that small motorcycles can be really exciting to ride (if you know how to handle them).

I've never run the GT, so I'm no help either, but following the 10% rule should get you in the ball park.

I'm not running Pirelli anymore , but went through a bunch of them in the mix (just mounted tire #57 on the Sport). FWIW, I found the best wear/handling balance at 35/40 psi, fr/rr. As always, "YMMV." Literally!

Well in the commercial jet world generally speaking you don't do anything on the strength of 1 parameter failure. You look at the other parameters and if they are all normal you continue. I once had a pilot call me looking to divert to a small alternate strip because of a fuel filter clogging light on. I asked him about the other parameters, any fluctuations etc? No. I mentioned to him that these switches were prone to failure and that by the time he diverted to the small alternate remote strip with no support of any kind he'd only be 10 min from his major scheduled destination strip anyway, but it was his decision. He went for the alternate, sigh, and it took us half a day to get him out of there. You can lead a horse as they say. Ciao

Well, I wanted a leak that I could not blame on Guzzi.

This is awesome John truth be told I thought the pump was the problem just figured sloppy cut-off point for the gears in the housing. Hey I thought the relief vale was only along for the ride. I don't want to worry you but you are dealing with systems here and changing one thing effects a whole lot of other things. Not trying to put a spin on your work I plan to follow in your footsteps. I'm can't think for the life of me why Guzzi didn't do something with this. I mean as a manufacturer they would have a vast amount of data to look at. What weight of oil were you using for your test? Here is a crazy idea if the spring controls pressure switching to a lighter wt oil might increase the volume of oil as a cooling media (might also take your oil cooler). You might lose a couple psi but gain a little horsepower over a 60 wt oil

The other zero-effort thing I did today: new K&N pods. The old ones were getting sort of ratty - particularly the left side, which got a bit crushed somewhere along the lines. Last time I cleaned and oiled them, I decided it would be the last time, and it was time to get some freshies. __Jason

Jason, I put a computer hard drive magnet on the oil filter of my Toyota Hilux pickup. It stayed in place till the next oil change, when I opened the filter can to look. I could see the outline of the magnet on the inside of the filter can. Just a dark outline that disappeared as soon as I touched it. So the magnet was collecting steel particles from the oil, but I don't know if it has any real world benefit. It certainly can't do any harm on an external filter, but I'd be reluctant to put one inside the sump of my bike.