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Ok, back to our regularly scheduled program. I have the mill set up, and will start the last no doubt highly collectable Lucky Phil V11 Sport Shifter Extender (tm) run this afternoon. Yeah, I know.. I said the last one was the last. But. I have a precedent, set by Guzzi.. "Hey, Luigi..those 500 numbered Rossos sold pretty well. Let's run another batch."

"Psssst! Hey! Hey, buddy, cm'ere-cm'ere . . . trade ya this Scud-made First-Gen Chuck SuperSpring for a Chuck-made Third-Gen LuckyPhil Shift Extender" . . .

Tom, when I drew the Simple Wiring Diagram I was using my 2001 VII Sport, it had a direct feed to the Start Relay, unfortunately a couple of years later the Guzzi factory switched the Start Relay feed to the ignition switch causing untold grief for owners. You can see the difference here. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif 1999 era with a direct feed to the relay. My 2001 never had a problem with cranking but the regulator Voltage reference was the pits (through two sets of relay contacts). http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif 2004 with the start relay fed through the ignition switch, I would like to believe the factory are ignorant of the high current the starter solenoid draws but you have to wonder why they haven't spoken to the manufacturer about it some time in the last 50 years. Note this year has a direct connected Voltage regulator, that' should be a plus. I assume you are having the dreaded click when you press the start button, that is caused by too much Voltage drop through the ignition switch, the starter solenoid is designed to pull at least 40 Amps while it is moving the gear into mesh, once engaged with the main contacts closed it drops to 10 Amps. The Guzzi schematics never show the double coils in the solenoid, they are both about the same number of turn but one is of heavier gauge wire and draws 5 x the current, thats the one missing on the factory drawings. All Guzzi starters have this double coil even today. You can probably improve things for a while by cleaning the ignition switch contacts but the real answer is to change the start relay feed from through the switch to direct but that involves changing the headlight relay wiring as well. Another easy method is to add a new relay to the existing solenoid trigger circuit to boost the signal the trigger wire is removed from the solenoid and now only picks up the new relay coil, a fraction of an Amp, the new relay contact is fed from a new fuse direct from the battery, it can now provide as much current as the solenoid needs. You will probably hear about the MPH solution, I don't think that will work with your bike, it would result in the headlight staying On. I have never actually done one adding an extra relay but it has the advantage in that the original wiring remains the same. The current of 40-50 amps will only last for about 20 milliseconds (as long as it takes to close the main contacts) then it will drop to 10 Amps while cranking. The current through the motor of course will be 150 - 200 Amps, no change there. No need for a relay socket, just use spade lugs right on the relay pins.

Even easier. Use the alternator method. When you find TDC on the right side, make a mark on the alternator fin straight up at noon, then when it goes around once and stops at three o'clock you've found the left side. Then anytime you set the valve all you have to do is watch the mark on the alternator. Much easier than looking into the flywheel spy hole.

Hello. I’m a new owner of a 2003 V11 Rosso Corsa. The vinyl tank graphics have bubbled. I have some questions for the community: 1) I think the bubbling is caused my ethanol interacting with the tank structure. While I don’t use fuel with ethanol in my other bikes, do members get the interior of the V11 tanks coated to prevent the interaction, or is there some other recommendation? 2) Is the a painter or source for reproductions of the graphics? Does anyone have a recommended restoration shop? 3) What tanks interchange with the 2003 Lemans Rosso Corsa? I’d like to maintain the original and restore a takeoff tank. If this is a current topic even a link back to the previous thread would be helpful. Enjoying both the bike and reading the forums!

I'll get it out and post some images. This tanks paint is actually close to perfect. Certainly any minor blemishes can be addressed with a hand cut and polish of the clear coat. Looking inside the tank I dont even know if its ever had fuel in it. I bought it years ago and never used it. It will also need a pair of 30103730 vent fittings. There is a pair on ebay USA now for $15 new. Item # 324118401061 PM me and if your interested we'll work something out. I'm guessing the postage may well be around $100US as well. Merlins defect inspection......Pass Ciao

Yes I think this is a common issue with those tanks I think. Its Ethanol related from memory but remember it's not actually the Ethanol itself but the water it attracts. Thats what causes the leaching issue which affects the decals and finish. I have one of these tanks here which is unaffected but the paints not absolutely perfect you could have for $100US. The shipping might be the issue though. Chuck internally coated his tank quite a few years ago and I think it's still holding up. Ciao

Alright . . . I couldn't wait!

Waiting for Chuck to come along and enlighten us with his awesome Aero-Lario! Aero-Guzzi engines rock!

You'd better tell me where to send it then John! really there isn't much to compare between the 'Old' and 'New' Hi-Cams apart from the layout. The 'New' Motor has two oil pumps, one of which delivers to a dedicated, and unthermostatted, cooling circuit that's only purpose is to deliver cooling oil to the galleries around the exhaust valve seats. Lubrication, and the other cooling sprays, are fed from the other pump. This includes the cam bearings which are fed by galleries surrounding two of the studs, not, as many think, by the oil lines from the cooler. More later, I just got an SOS call........