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Sorry, been away from here for a long time. Still have the bike. Still works great. As noted from the other response (also a long time ago) (but thought all the information should be in the same place) I had to get the clutch push rod machined down at the clutch end. I had them make it symmetrical; both ends have matching diameter and depth steps in them, and it worked perfectly.

As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude. With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis. Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came from the factory connected between Left and Right indicators the current drawn was insignificant compared to the incandescent lamps in the indicators, about 100 mA but with LEDs that tiny current is many times what the LEDs draw. All you need to do is wire a small diode from each side pointing at the idiot lamp with the other side of the lamp to chassis. The diodes prevent the lamp signal getting from Left to Right indicators, even if you change the idiot light for an LED you will need the diodes. This change takes place inside the dash, no additional wires except the new ground for the lamp. If you decide to change out the incandescents in the dash for LEDs don't even think about using the original lamp holders. BTW, if any of you also have a CARC Guzzi you do need to add a shunt resistor (just a tiny 1K 1/4 Watt) to some LEDs to keep the lamp alarm happy and stop the lamps glowing with the key off. I tried to add a sketch file but it's even too large at only 200 dpi

Wendy Pirsig has donated the Super Hawk to the Smithsonian. "Bob’s philosophy explored human values, and he aimed to show how quality is actually at the center of all existence,” Wendy Pirsig says. “It seems consistent with this focus on quality that his motorcycle collection joins the nation’s exemplary history museum at the Smithsonian.” https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/cycle-zen-art-and-motorcycle-maintenance-comes-smithsonian-180973836/ [Not exactly "breaking news" as the Smithsonian article is a year old, but it's the first I've heard of it.]

I did this as I had a spare mudguard so got rid of the number plate lamp, the LED lamp has one built in

I recently did the swap as well. Zero indications that the aluminum flywheel was about to fail. But I was having shifting issues which I'm nearly certain was due to clutch drag. FWIW, after swapping out the gear selector springs, new gear box oil, bleeding the clutch lever, and putting in the RAM clutch replacement, the bike has never shifted better or smoother. Worth it for that, and peace of mind that I was no longer sitting on a time bomb.

Andy, it looks like Photobucket is holding your photos hostage The aluminum flywheel is an annoying dilemma. There's no guarantee it will fail. I don't doubt some will last forever. The lack of confidence finally got to me. New Ram clutch installed this month. 13,500mi. No signs of doom on my flywheel, but I wasn't terribly impressed with the casting.