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It could be worse, in order to log into Wild Goose you have to have a steam powered computer, no electricity is allowed.

Knumbnutz,I had an 1100 sport ie and I have now a V11 LeMans.When I first rode the V11 It felt like it was a completely different bike,it was kind of glued to the ground with much less vibrations,and hardly any strange little sounds.It almost felt like a bike from a different era.Much more modern. The 1100 sport was,if it was crosswind and a bad road more like hanging on to a steel pipe with handle bars.Part of that excitement and effort needed was one thing that got me hooked on Guzzis.Also because on a good road the 1100sport was fantastic. That's my experience of riding them anyway.

Why is this forum almost impossible to join? I pledged sigma nu back in the day and only had to survive drunken sharpie humiliation to get an invite.

What?! VIGILI URBANI? Real Guzzisti emulate the Carabinieri. OTOH ... I am willing to entertain other views. Bill That said, there are comely lasses in the Carabinieri, too. I am thus (almost) willing to forgive them for riding beemers now. Sigh. Oh ... welcome, Picasso Bull. Bill

^^^^ I don't *think* so, although the only heat treatment I've been professionally involved in was in tool steels. As LP says, aluminum hardens with time. Take, for instance, aircraft "freezer" rivets. Once this alloy is annealed, they have to be kept in the freezer so they will be soft enough to drive. As they age, they get harder than...uh..Chinese algebra.

Wait, you didn't have to ride the goat? Man, you got off easy.

The usual basic method is to immerse the part in a warm Loctite 290 bath for an hour or so then remove and rinse off. A friend of mine had his E type Jag engine professionally rebuilt a few years back and the engine guy did this with the brand new sump even before it had been fitted due to history of leaks. If you clean a head or crankcase down thoroughly and put it in an oven at 100 deg C any porosity will usually show up with a very careful detailed look or you can buy a Dye check kit and spray the cases with a light coat of the developer only after a thorough cleaning and drying and that will show it up as well. warmed in the oven even better. Any oil in the porosity will be very obvious as it was on my head images. Dye check kits are cheap, probably around $20 us over there and I've used mine more times than I can remember over the years. Ciao

Humm, hey Mister, May purchase one of those braces from you. Just let me know what info you need. Yes, Very serious.... James

LOL !...Plz let me clarify, I LOVE my V11, it's in great shape, (2000 model, 28K), extremely happy with the Metzeler Z8's, & always looking for little upgrades. NO, it doesn't wobble, shake or shimmy, just rumbles & is a nice alternate to my old SS. Still, just looking for any upgrades, & thought this would be a good fit.

Please explain the sharpie thing . I think i know , just making sure . If it was like my little brother's club house , the first to pass out got the treatment . shaved head , eyebrows , whatever . Sharpie clown faces . marked up stuff everywhere on the body . It was understood going in , the winner got it all .

Let me throw this in . I do have a two tank system on the black frame . with the red tank (NEW) having only non-ethanol fuel only used . The tank still was a JOB to remove / install with paint rubbed off in places I didn't like . I am going to say mods to the front tank pucks are the only way to go w/o aluminum .

Glyptol was the go to for the cases on old American bikes. Now with the scarcity of correct parts from the 20s -50s this practice has revealed its shortcomings. Sealing against porosity locally makes more sense than overall as with time (30 yrs and on) the total sealing effect results in a dry aluminum or alloy that is difficult to work with being incredibly brittle. I'll throw this out here that any metal or combination of metals that can be fed (in our case oil aided with temperature change) should be fed. A parallel is ceramic material, Think of the old set of cracking ceramic dishes that were never used. Ceramics need water and temperature change regularly to resist brittleness and cracking, its the same with your motor (oil not water obviously). A local point where oil makes it through is worth rectifying but only for that point. Isn't it the rate of cooling that dictates the imperfections of alloys. it should not be a problem for the V11 as it is not a "busy" head. The 4 valve though (old and new) obviously should have had a better quality or smaller production supply to address the issue.

Not sure docc but the l/h head on my original engine was affected and a mates MK4 Le mans had porous crankcases around the r/h cylinder base. Plenty with Ducati's. You'll know it if you've got it, an oil leak you just cant seem to fix is the clue. Ciao

I've posted a version of this before but so what .. Steve , Eric, and Derick great people great song

You guys talk like Nylon is such a bad thing!

I remove my tank about every three years (about the same interval as my swingarm removal). I only hope my tank does not, one day, split at the rear mount as I am "coaxing it" back on. While moving the tank forward does not look like a good option for the ShortFrame/ShortTank (1999-2001), I also am reluctant to lift the front of the tank. Sure, that might relieve the stress to the rear mounting bolt, but I don't think I would like the look . . . Here again, though, those with LongFrames and short tanks (2002 and early '03 "carry-overs with chin-pad tanks), grooming the forward mounting pucks to shift the tank forward is brilliant!

The only genuine solution docc is an alloy tank. You could of course have a spare tank and periodically rotate them on the bike so the one not in use is dedicated to drying out. Then swap them around and dry out the other, or coat the tank. Ciao

I've of high mileage heads cracking through the valve guides it would great to know if it was caused by inclusion or porosity buried inside the head. For sure what you suggested is in order. I mean that's probably the place to start a project like this. I got to say if hasn't already been said owning and working on a daytona motor is not for the faint of heart.

Spring-loaded pucks would be nice, but I'm dreaming.

Old Harley-Davidsons, particularly the sand-cast engines nearly always had some porosity. As you've done here, Glyptol was the most common answer, after a solvent bath and oven baking. V8 Automotive guys use it too. Interestingly, Jack Roush Engineering used (uses?) copper plating on the entire block, because it can in no way peel off and compromise integrity.

I do love my vert... that is, until she leaves me stranded

Picasso, FYI, there's a google group for Convert riders.. it be even harder to join.

old pic, old bike, younger guy

Could be a Taptalk issue? I've always wanted a V11 and found a nice one; the seller turned out to be unreasonable. Therefore, I ended up with a horizontally opposed instead of a 90 degree V. I will say Guzzi owners are much more welcoming, Been owners tend to be a tight knit group of conceited @sses. Some day...

here's mine

Seriously. It was a yellow BMW R1100S that my Sport caught me catting around with. She popped a gearbox seal just to let me know not to stray . . . Guzzis can be coy . . .

It seems you made it! Welcome. The site goes through the occasional update and sometimes is left with a minor technical hang up. It would be helpful if you describe what problems you encountered while joining. maybe it's an easy fix. other than that I can only think the BMW on your list 'may' have caused a problem ...

Wait . . . you mean no sharpened drunkies have been by to initiate you in to the party? Well . . . then you're in! Cheers!

Hey up Knumbnutz, one truly excellent source of information is Richardsons ‘Guzziology’. I was flicking through it only today and was interested to note that the 1100 Sports, and Daytonas, don’t have the rubber cush drives that the V11 do. Highly recommend it mate.

Here's the next question begged; Will 1100 Sport bodywork fit a V11 frame?