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Epic necrodredge thread bump! I stumbled on this in a web search and couldn't believe I was brought back to my very first thread/post on these forums. Eighteen years ago! For the record, these early gearboxes were recalled by the manufacturer. Mine was replaced entirely later in 2003 with about 27,000 miles. I kept try to tell everybody my Sport quit shifting right!

I've had this discussion before at length docc. In 35 years of using a LOT of CF parts on bikes and on top of that in aviation I've never experienced it. It's another one of those Theory V practice things you come across regularly. I've always taken the view that theory has it's place especially when you're designing something or have zero practical experience in the area but I've generally sided with what is demonstrated to work in actuality over being a slave to the theory. As I said my experience demonstrates it's not an issue, for me at least. On an ocean going racing yacht with a CF hull and aluminium mast in a permanent salt water environment I might show it some concern, but on a bike, no. Ciao

That's Jodie Comer from the series Killing Eve. Ciao

Last weekend I added a Carbon weave alternator cover on my Rosso...along with changing out the damn crossover pipe with a set of Mistral down tubes. The cover I got was from Pomponi's Garage. Claudio did a really nice job on the part and was great communicating with me from Italy. This picture shows the cover with the old cross over pipe, which was a beeyatch to seal (even with a solid shim kit) and was always in the way. The new Mistrals sound great, were easy to fit. They run into a Stucchi x-over and a set of Mistral Titanium ovals.

Sure it can. You *do* need to tune up the pre selector, though. I'm out of Lucky Phil Shifter Extenders, though.. so you are SOL there.

YAH....I worked with Ocean going racing Yachts for years..Then you have a concern..but so far have never seen the need for a Galvanic Anode on a Motorcycle......

My bike had corrosion on the Ohlins front fork attachment lugs to the carbon fibre front mudguard. Managed to clean it up then used plastic spacers.

Not me !

Maybe but not at that capacity..

I think I've now about reached the end of this but wanted to post some more prelim data for now and some more test results tomorrow. Who'd have thought I could spin out a 4 page thread on a bloody spring. So here's what I've found as a rough guide regarding shimming the OEM valve with the Griso spring. Below are 2 results, the first colum is static test data. In other words putting the valve in an oil tester or pumping up the valve on oil, if you use air the results will be different, probably lower from what I saw. I gave up on using air as a medium the leakage was so bad I couldn't obtain repeatable results. The oil I was using was a 15-50 full synth room temp 18-20C, cold oil for both the static test and the crank test. When static testing the valve just starts to crack then around 5psi later is well off the seat so it's difficult to pin down an exact lift value, but easy to get a ballpark within 5psi for when the valve lifts All results psi, shim numbers in mm. On all of these there was no crush washer or shim on the spring retaining nut on the PRV top, some have these installed others not. IMHO they serve no purpose, however, if they are in place they will subtract from the shim value as the nut will not penetrate as deeply into the valve body and compress the spring Shim Static Oil Pressure None 80-85 68 1.5 105-110 82 3 125-130 95 I think the results were pretty well linear in behaviour, so as a "Rule of thumb" for every 1mm of shim compressing the spring you'll see 14psi increase in static lift pressure and approximately 9psi on the oil pressure. Can only base this on my own anectodal evidence, but knowing that no shim gave me 68 and 3mm shim gave me 95, a 27psi difference, 1mm equated to 9psi. 1.5mm should give me pressure in the bike of somewhere around 80-83psi. When I crank tested it was somewhere between 80-82psi. If you have a facilities to static test by all means do it, you may get different numbers to me, but be aware that the static lift values are higher than what you'll see inside the engine. The figures here are just what I saw and posted up as a rough guide and starter for anybody mad enough to try it

I find that either running the glow plug cycle a couple times first, or praying the rosary 3 times, works better for rebooting the Zumo GPS.