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The bevelbox on the CARC system is generally pretty robust. The one Achilles Heel it has is the light preload on the pinion bearings supplied by the nut and the fact that it is held there simply by a lockwasher. For some bizarre reason Guzzi don't Loctite it and if the bearings settle or wear the preload is lost, the nut comes loose and things go pear shaped fairly quickly. First symptom will be noise from the final drive on the over-run. If you notice this stop riding immediately. Not only could it preceed a catastrophic failure but also if you stop it there and then it may well be possible to save your final drive. I can't stress how important catching it early is. If you don't and continue to ride the consequences may be terminal. Michael has just stripped Peter Hughes's box after he continued riding it for a while. Unfortunately it's fed bits of lockwasher all through everything and the results are terminal. Sorry but there's no saving this one. This is the pinion nose bearing. Most of the other bearings in the box and reactive bridge look much the same. Now if you do catch it early and there is no crownwheel or pinion damage it is, despite what the factory may try to tell you, quite possible to rebuild the entire reactive bridge and therefore the bevelbox. My guess though is that very few shops would be willing to try it, either because they don't have anyone with the skills or for liability reasons. It's this sort of numbskull 'Built in obsolescence' that makes my blood boil and we won't have a bar of it. We can at least look at your box and tell if it's salvageable and if we can rebuild it you can bet your arse we'll be Loctiting the living Bejasus out of the pinion nut as it's preloaded so the bastard won't be coming undone again! Oh, and as an indicator that this sort of repair is quite possible my box on my GRiSO played exactly the same trick. I caught it early, cleaned everything thoroughly and didn't even replace any of the support bearings! Just replaced the nut and lockwasher, Loctited and preloaded to about 120 inch pounds on the nut before bending up the tang on the new lockwasher. That was nearly 50,000km ago and it's still running silent and strong.

I was shocked and amazed that Tom Petty's bassman has the same J-bass that just now showed up and plugged in to my amp. I'm honored! Earlier, I tried to explain the riding thing to a non-riding friend and ended up back at "Treetop Flyer" . . . My favorite YouToob version is what @JesterGrin_1 posted in the Aircraft/piloting thread;

In search of more comfort for a broken/repaired pelvis and hip socket, I gave in to drilling my top triple today. I left the brackets for the Verlicchi touring bars in place so I can return it to that configuration super easily, if the ape hangers I’m installing don’t work out. Easy to put ss snap in buttons to cover the holes. I’m using a set of VStrom short risers from eBay. I’ve got a set of hose extensions from helibar if needed. Again, easily returnable to stock, and can get custom hoses if my pelvis says yes.

sorry , resized pic

Managed to source a TI race kit someone had pulled off their bike before selling. I couldn't wait so tried installing the pipes as soon as they arrived. A little disappointed in the pipes as they have a few marks and a couple of small dings. Anyhow the foot peg hangers would not bolt up due to different hole distance dimensions. On searching the web I noticed a small adaptor bracket is necessary. Contacted the seller. "oh yes I remember those". Bugger! He is going to have look for them. Anyhow I settled on just changing out the ECU. Out goes the 15RC and in goes the 15M. I had already turned the lambda off previously. My god the difference is incredible. My OEM pipes have been cored so it runs fantastic. Not one cough at any rpm anywhere. More responsive and the motor actually seems to sound different and definitely has a different character. I like it a lot....now to figure out wat to do with the TI cans to tidy them up. Thinking about dismantling and taking them to a decent panel beater then giving them a good polish.

Oh dear me, I cannot believe that ten minutes in, Reynold's Strat and Haynes' Les Paul did not burst into flames! Dave Matthews Band . . .

Ciao

Got a new Ti ECU with my cans,, decent price, but I wasn't impressed. I like spares Cheers Tom.

If you can measure the fork dia and offset I can measure the V11 and give you an idea. I'm sure the stem will be the same as I'm sure the top clamp nut is common to them both. Ciao

As a starting point I just checked the fuel, offset and ignition maps of the Ti map against the V11 Sport map and the only difference between a "Titanium" map and a std v11 Sport map is ignition advance at the top end at larger throttle openings. So from 36.8 to 84.8 (full throttle) there is between 3 and 5 degrees extra ignition advance on the Ti map. That's it. It was a similar thing with Ducati, I would never pay the extra money for the Ducati "special" ecus and just buy the pipes without the ecu as it was never worth the extra silly money they charged for them and had no practical effect on engine performance with a Ducati. Those ecu's just added 3% fuel everywhere and you paid around 1500 dollars for them. Ciao

Of course your right Docc, I don't know what I was thinking.. back to the original question. Will a Centauro top triple fit a V11.. I have the Centauro part but no V11 to camp are to.

Yikes! I remember groaning the last time I learned something from Master Roper. But, I couldn't sleep till I checked. And yes, my shock linkage and swing arm bearings were dry. From the factory. So, thanks again, Pete. My '08 Sport's next (30k) service is gonna be epic!

Moderator magic! Images fixed. All you really need to do when posting an image that is hosted (like yours, Pete, on flikr) is right click on the open image and select "copy image location" then paste into your post. Image addresses that begin and end with [img] (BBCode) won't display.

thanks

Asses?.......Quit talkin about me and my friends...lol

Thanks I will take it!

IF you don't know what to look for ad/or the seller is vague , take a friend / authority with you to be a good third party . my 02/03 had more patina than I wanted , BUT I bought it from another member . I am satisfied with it and ALL the $ I've poured into it . I doubt if you will be taken , but be a careful buyer . ASK plenty of ?s and have a checkoff list . If there is a member in the area , get them to go along . Is this bike perfect ? Hell no . you will be busy with it and you will be satisfied with a damn good bike !

Oh, you'll also need some A06 spacers. You'll need to contact Renthal USA for them once you have proof of purchase of your CL003.

No need. On the underside of your top yoke there are the bosses ready to be drilled to take bars. I used Renthal CL003 bar mounts and an 828-50 Fatbar with bar ends and G176 grips.

From my maintenance log: For future reference on brake howl, rear brake side bearing problems, the rear spacer is 113.2mm. Some were short by 1mm.

No problem, I’m not far away if you need any parts or help

Forgive me docc "Two Nations divided by a common language"

Same as a v11 Sport there is no real need to. The only thing that will cause there to be residual pressure in the lines is the internal check valve in the pump at the discharge. I've never seen one that actually holds pressure after it ages. So when the pump shuts down any pressure in the line dissipates through the pump and back to the tank outlet. If the pump check valve is actually working you will get a small amount of spillage when you remove the hose from the regulator but it won't be spraying everywhere. As the fluid is incompressible and tiny release of fuel either from undoing a line or leakage via the leaking check valve will dump the line pressure immediately. It's never an issue in the usual scenario. Some people with the in tank pumps pull the fuel pump fuse and start the engine apparently which runs briefly but I've never had the need to do so. Ciao

Seems what Weegie calls a "jubilee clamp", we Yanks call worm-gear clamps, or just "hose clamps." Pretty fun history on the whole "Jubilee Clip" thing on Wiki. So, the 1100 Sport-i is set up like the first generation V11 Sport (External fuel pump/ filter/ regulator). Once the system sits for a bit, the pressure just bleeds off. As Weegie says, you can then release one of the [hose clamps] and catch a bit of fuel. I typically take off the return line to the regulator and drain the filter atop the spine frame. Looks to be 100 ml or so, but not pressurized.

Gives new meaning to the term "smite."

Not sure how the hell a drive shaft gets bent but if it is then it's time for a new one I'd say. The only possible option would be a drive shaft specialist but most only tackle the car shafts they are used to dealing with. I personally would have a go at straightening it in a press if it wasn't too bad, but that's me. It's definitely bent is it, I mean if the shaft is full of grease it can stop the splines fully engaging from memory and the suction can make them hard to get apart, or am I dreaming again? I wouldn't be surprised if you stuck a runout gauge on a Guzzi shaft it would have .010"-.020" runout. ciao

My Father in law ( RIP) had an antique Art and collectables store in SF for years...When my wife would ask how much something was worth..he would say..its worth whatever its worth to you? How much do you have ? How bad do you want it? I always kind of go by that..How much do I have? and How bad do I want it?..that is really all that matters.

2500-3500?

I will go this year, definitely maybe

Didnt realise we had figured it out! Ciao

That is, perhaps, one of the most charitable descriptions anyone has ever applied to some of my plausible bull$#!t . . . But, there it is: the referenced statistical evidence. I think we should all be going around the world saying this. Try it sometime! (Then stand back and marvel at the *ripples* in the conversation!)