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Out for a ride after having the dual plate clutch installed.

Knee deep and forging fwd!!!! Time to get it all stripped , and then off to the powder coaters on Monday..The Original Flywheel looked fine..no cracks or issues..Although I can see and some point a previous owner has done some thrashing of the pressure plates, all the rest of the clutch assy looks fine!! RAM clutch kit sitting here and all ready to put back in on re-assembly, the Transmission and bearings look excellent ..some one has been in there in re-sealed it long ago..Oil pump and timing chain look like new..Found it has had High Compression FBF Pistons installed at some point..all looks good ...Having the crank checked out....Heads and valves look great! Thankful My Mechanic John helping me..learning a lot from his 50 years master mechanic of experience . She will be awesome.

Thanks for the replies. I ordered the one from Harper’s. Priced in the middle and they claim it’s quiet. Now if I could find a way to remove a 100 lbs off the bike and lower the COG. The V11 seems to have gained weight over the last year.

Everything will be powder coated except the final drive, ie;engine cases, trans cases, timing cover, sump, valve covers......I am not doing the final drive right now, mostly because I didn't feel like it , it will get done, but it works fine, the current final drive paint is like new, and it is an easy thing to pull later..but right now I have a 100 other things this bike needs done first...at some point I may buy a 2003 final drive which comes in Satin..I have 2 new 2003 collars in Satin laid aside. for that day. Actually my old Mandello had a Satin type motor paint and trans with an original finish on the Final drive that looked almost just like this Scura's current one....looked fine to me. I have restored a couple old Nortons and used the same powder coater with the same engine paint and they came out beautiful .

There's more than one way to get across borders . . .

Been there. Done that. But did not get the T-shirt. Powdercoater you say? Are you having all the cases powdercoated? That shitty paint is on the final drive case and the driveshaft collars too. FWIW, I had the collars powdercoated flat black (along with a lot of other stuff), and I used VHTs satin black engine paint for engine, trans, and final drive. The sheen of the flat black powder and satin rattle can are very close.

Should the frame number be ZGUKS or ZGUKR in this case?

I see boxes of parts that I have no idea how they would fit together. Looks like a nice big Healy there. Looking forward to read how this bikes rides when it's back together.

You're a pro a Marty, in the Hunter Thompson vain. "When the going get's Weird, the Weird go Pro!"

I've got to get some of this guy's music. He keeps bumping into my Pandora. Still awaiting some recommendations.

He's one Okie I love and never saw. The master of less is more. And sometimes it takes more to do it right.

I recall hearing the idea that the Reggae beat was a product of the wavering, modulated FM radio signal broadcasting New Orleans jazz across the Gulf of Mexico to Jamaica. In that case, I figure J.J. Cale didn't have any better reception up in Tulsa . . .

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1666.htm Ciao

Harper's has them. I have not used this one. Always call Harper's for availability. http://www.harpermoto.com/replacement-for-fuel-pump-29107261.html

I see Scud's post in his Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts in "How to . . ."

There're generic fuel pumps for less than $100 at the auto parts store. I've lost the cross ref. You might query the site and see if you can find that info. I am intending this for bikes with external fuel pumps. $55 at MG Cycle http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2491

Happy old boy. Just bought a Nero Corsa in Germany. Getting her further north will be the next challenge. 2000miles roundtrip, when possible. Anybody going North with a Van? Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

You're right. And so is he to tell you to use it. Or CAIG DeoxIT. Any dielectric is a very good insulator. But as a grease, like "bulb grease", Permatex dielectric grease, CRC dielectric grease, or "DuPont Molycote 4", the grease is easily pushed aside to let metal to metal electrical contact for terminals, plugs, bulbs etc. It stops oxygen and water from tarnishing the contact metals, so connections last better. It won't fix bad connections, (mechanical scraping does that, or unplug/repluging) but it will preserve good connections. This is what it is designed for. Vaseline does a similar job, but silicon dielectric grease doesn't burn, and won't freeze or run from -50 to +200C. Important for aircraft. Another handy property of silicon grease is it conducts heat, despite not conducting electricity. CAIG DeoxIT and similar electrical clean/protection sprays are combined contact cleaner, corrosion inhibitor, and dissolved grease in a spray can. The solvent cleans the connection, and inhibitor/grease protects the connection. They work well, but the benefits don't last as long as a dielectric grease. My bike had every electric plug & terminal connected oozing with DC4. Years later, no problems. (except for a couple of those effing relays).

Those are good questions. Interesting the "KR vs KS" frame. My early Sport is KR (4th and 5th VIN characters). Camn, are you saying Moto Guzzi changed to "KS" when the "LongFrame" was introduced with the additionally braced front subframe and lower rear subframe that connects forward to the bottom of the engine case? FWIW my long frame 2002 LeMans has a "KR" VIN. Maybe a KS frame doesn't have fuel pump mounting tabs?

hey Doc. Us Canadians cant get across the line.......... So I'm out unfortunately.