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MySport's been parked for over a month leaking fork oil into a catch pan while my "other bike" is on the lift. Pretty sure the fussy Italian girl just had to pitch her hissy-fit. I have the seals in the pile, just need the lift. But the little Honda is waiting on a NOS cam. From Israel. Gonna be a minute . . . So, I decide there is nothing to be lost by using the SealMate® that @Mikkosent me a couple years ago. Without any real hopes, the left fork went 118 miles today and stayed dry! Shocked! So, I cleaned the right and feel like we're back on the road. Thanks @Mikko ! !

Someone left the gate open and the Sport gassed up. docc bolted!

I've got sort of the same thing, but it cuts out for 1/2 sec. But... I had a TRX and it had was getting harder and harder to start. Every time I thought I found a reason it proved not to be it. Eventually it was a fracture on the pcb of the ecu and once I was able to get another ecu it suddenly became an easy fix. From that experience I would say you are doing all right things. Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

" - Dismantle main switch and check contactors and soldering." @Gerry_L , if this means the key-activated "Ignition Switch", by all means: yes! 20A OMRON (G8HN ?) are not full-on High Current OMRON (G8HE) . . . vital for Position#5 (Fuel/Ignition)! And Position #1 on an early Sport! > High Current < relay positions! There are also the weak, hidden spade connectors under the fuse block to fuses #1/#2 (Fuel/Ignition and ECU): Otherwise, it's Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and another Decent Tune-up to catch up all the stray issues . . .

This looks to be sorted, so thought I'd post an update. My issue was a slow fuel seep from the fuel level sensor, which had never been off the tank since I purchased the bike new. Gas was collecting under the rubber boot, so after seeing the photo Chuck posted, I suspected it was seeping through the potting or one of the mounting flange-washer-sensor mating surfaces. I guessed that the leak would be less localized if the tank-flange interface (ie - the o-ring) was the problem instead. I pulled the sensor and found the aluminum washer at the base was pretty cruddy. Likewise there was material caked onto the rubber of the sensor housing itself. Guessing this was mostly calcium phosphate from EtOH-water issues. I also found that the sensor had come unglued from its rubber housing, perhaps because the rubber had swollen over the years (see photo). The mounting flange and o-ring had a bit of caking as well. I cleaned everything up, re-installed with Permatex non-hardening liquid gasket, and leak tested O/N with a 1/2 tank of gas. Next day…TA-DA! No leaks…what a hero! I filled the tank on my victory ride, and sure enough the wife complained of gas smell in the garage-adjacent TV room that same night. I'd had enough. I bought a new sensor and a tube of the reputedly magic Hylomar, drained and dried the tank, and brought it inside where I could work on it patiently. All mating surfaces got skim coats of Hylomar, which was allowed to dry thoroughly at RT before assembly. It's been about a week with no leaks. I don't know precisely why the old one was leaking, but decided I'm ready to move on and live with a little more mystery in my life.

I can also attest for Seal Mate. Fixed fork leaks on my VFR and Monster S4R in the past 3 years. Seems to be true that most fork leaks are caused by small debris that gets up in your seal. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Probably the reason for change was the simple one, cost. In all honesty with your Eldo I'd have to ask why go to the trouble of swapping? A chain with a decent Valtek type tensioner will last at least 120,000km. Are you really likely to ride a nearly 50 year old bike that far in your lifetime? Id be far more concerned about establishing if it still has chrome bores and if it does? Fixing that before I worried about the cam drive. You'll also find that if you are looking for a set of the original Guzzi gears the oil pump gear is different from memory, straight shaft on one set up, tapered shaft on the other. I might be mistaken on that, dealing with that stuff was a lifetime ago. Really though on a 50 year old vehicle worrying about the cam drive is a bit like worrying about the mouse hole in the skirting board when you're sitting in a room with a hungry tiger!😂

I was going off the title I just picked up from the post office. The shipping company called me and said she’ll be here Wednesday or Thursday. Together Chuck, we shall delve into this mystery machine and reveal its secrets! Plus I’ll post a bunch of pics and a video!

I’ve got a buddy with a V85 and a drum brake Eldorado loop frame. He rides the loop the most. He was going to buy a new V7, but when he found and rode the loop he fell in love and passed on the V7.

My first thought was ignition switch, but when feathering the clutch brings it back to life? Hmmm.

It's a neat bit of kit that everyone should have in the tool box. I was skeptical at first because I was taught once they start leaking, the only fix was a rebuild. I can say that my Fork leg is still dry. I've been more then pleased considering that tool was just a few bucks. Probably one of, if not the most cost effective repairs one can do. You are welcome Docc!

"I'm gonna break my rusty cage. And run."

@docc thanks for the excellent feedback! I do have the G8HE's - I got the reference from this forum and had to buy them from the US. Couldn't find them in Australia. The fuse block is a good lead - will head out to the garage and hit that one now. May as well do the ignition switch while I'm there. I've done most of the things in the tank-off list and it's tuned to within an inch of its' life. When it isn't playing up it runs so sweet it would make a grown man weep tears of joy. When I finally get to the bottom of this I'm gonna ride the wheels off it! Thanks again.

Cap in hand and begging for help here. I've been trying to sort my 2002 V11 Sport for way too long and I'm at the end of my tether. I'm desparately looking for suggestions that I haven't thought of. It cuts out suddenlt without warning - complete and instant - but kicks back in immediately I feather the clutch. Sometimes it'll backfire if I stuff up the clutch work but has never stranded me. Some days it will limp home cutting out very few kms, some days it can run perfectly all the way home. (I only take it out when I'm testing a new fix). It can run perfectly for 2-300 kms or it can do it 2 kms from home. Hot weather/cold weather. To date I've tried: - Clutch & sidestand switches - All new 20A Omron relays (and re-tightened the spade connectors in the relay blocks) - New ignition sensor (wiring had gone hard and brittle) - New filter & fuel hoses (with heat insulator over the tank line) - Checked, cleaned and tightened all earths. - Brand new battery (charging at > 13.5V) - Swapped ECUs (it runs a Jefferies myECU unit but I have the same one on my Cali - I can swap them easily then just load the appropriate map. Cliff checked and re-flashed one of them for me when I was fiddling with the relays and caused some mischief). Still to come: - new fuel pump on its' way (not convinced this is the problem but I'm grasping at straws here). - Dismantle main switch and check contactors and soldering. - new fuel tap Please feel free to add to this list - the answer will be there somewhere I'm sure. Thanks in advance

Maybe this is a red herring Chuck. I looked at the wiring diagram as well and couldn't come up with an answer on that with regards to the clutch switch and a running engine but here's a thought. When it dies ( and the OP hasnt mentioned if this means just the engine or complete electrical power) I will assume engine only, the natural instinct is to whip the clutch in and start modulating the throttle to keep it running. Maybe it's worth thinking more about what's happening with the throttle and the TPS as a possible issue. Ciao

@Chuck I do agree with your logic, but as per my comment on the fuel pump, I'm down to clutching at straws here. Like everything else I've tried so far, even if it doesn't fix the problem it all adds to a better runninng bike (eventually)...

Sorry, but all the bodywork is gone. Mike

Another great read that I stumbled upon, I just purchased a 74 Eldorado, thats needing a chain tensioner/chain,my plan is to install the the gear setup and eliminate the chain altogether. Why did Guzzi drop the gears and go with ,what seems to be a lesser chain setup? Also from what I've read they had three different gear setups, the difference being the number of teeth (gear pitch)? On the three different sets. Is their any advantage to more or less teeth on the gear sets? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!

It’s titled as a ‘98, looks like this person bought it in 2013. So the one owner story isn’t true.... Hmmm... well as long as she runs I’m not too worried about it.

Right. This is me all gooey over the old LoopFrames. I recall @pete roper saying, (and I paraphrase heavily), "What's all the bloody arse-up with Americans looving the Loopers? They are bloody awful bikes with brakes like wet roller skates and heavy as a lard sandwich with greasy chips." (That's not at all exactly what Pete said, but he left me with this, er, >impression< ) The answer, of course, is: "Nostalgia."

Just saw this version on YouTube. Appears to have mid-70s Duc 900SS bodywork.

I'd agree to an extent but wouldn't quite go so far as to say the 1100 is horrible, I'd agree it's not nearly as nice a design as the Sfida 1000. I'm at odds with how Magni's take is horrid, compared with Guzzi's on the Sporti. The Guzzi version for the UK (and I think the US), where they junked the trapazoid headlight and installed the rectangular unit was even worse. I can remember my disappointment when I purchased an early Daytona and it had that setup compared to the trapazoid in the brochures I think the Sfida 1100i looks great with the fairing added when Magni produced the Giappone, which is essentially a Sfida 1100 with USD forks, the Magni V11 exhuasts and a full fairing. I'm thinking about the fairing as a possible winter project for mine I can understand the beauty of the MGS but its never really sang out that loud to me and the input from, was it Ghezzi or Brian? is obvious. As you can see I love the Magnis and prefer the Australia design over the MGS. Perhaps it's an age thing, I'm getting on a bit and prefer curves to angular, but that's simply taste (and mine may well be up my ass) Vive la difference po18guy You do know about the Guareschci don't you? Not identical but if you were looking to have something close to an MGS for the road it's not so bad, I Iike it a lot Oh just one more to clarify Magni actually produced HiCam and an 1100 sport engines stuffed into his version of the Tonti chassis in very limited numbers. EDIT As well as a few Sfidas being stuffed into Magni's version of the Tonti I also meant to add that the Australia 92 (they were built in 2 batches in 92 and 98, as I recall) had the same tontiesque frame too. It was only the later Australia 98s that were beam/spine framed. I can't find any pictures right now but there were a few Anyway I'll get ma coat, nuff said by me

Don't be tempted by any of the alloy or alloy/steel composite sets available. They're all garbage despite what their fanboys will try to tell you.

Perhaps the solution are breakers that can be reset, vs. having to carry a spare fuse? I think that's the way airplanes do it; since riding a motorcycle is deemed just one step below flying helicopters for "learning difficulty," maybe we should steal a page from aero practice? After all, for a Guzzi it's just going back to their roots...

GEI Relays are made in China. Omron's are made in the USA. Omron makes relays with higher contact ratings that will fit the socket, and the base is sealed. I have had one installed for a couple of weeks in the starter position and it hasn't failed, but that's a short term test. I have a pretty high level of confidence in Omron. They make one for automobile applications with an even higher contact rating, but it's not available through distributors. As an OEM to the automakers, I have contacted Omron directly to obtain a supply. They are still thinking about it, because I'm honest with them and told them, no, I will not be buying millions. I'm confident I can pull strings if necessary, but it may take a little time. Arc suppression using a capacitor is not a good idea for this application. In a distributor/coil ignition system, a capacitor allows the coil primary voltage to reach the relatively high levels it needs to create a high enough voltage on the secondary to ignite the mixture. The capacity is also designed (in a good design) to equalize contact erosion between one side and the other of the contacts to extend life. The better relay coils used on the MG have resistors in parallel with their coils to limit the peak inductive "kickback" or "flyback" voltage. These typically permit the voltage to reach around 60-80 volts. If a capacitor were used, when the contacts closed, they would have to absorb a momentary, but quite high, current to discharge the capacitor. Ideally, 50 milliamps is just enough to keep contacts clean in controlling a circuit with very low current draw (not the situation in Guzzi's), but that would require a resistor plus capacitor, which is more expensive for manufacturers. A diode with current rating at least as high as the load would probably work fine in Guzzi's. It only allows the kickback voltage to rise to 0.7 to 1.2 volts. However that will slow down the time the coil takes to de-engergize, so in applications where you want the relay to release quickly, that might be a problem. I'm not aware of any situation in a Guzzi where this is an issue, so a diode would be all right. Virtually any diode will withstand the reverse voltage in a 12 volts system. In cases where fast response is not necessary, a diode is a good solution. The thing to make sure of is the current rating. Be advised: The most common failure mode of diodes is they become a short circuit, so if it fails, you may start blowing fuses. :!: I'll pursue the Omron supply as a priority.