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Roper sloppage plate, LP extender, and Scud's spring. All finally in. And new rubber too!

Thanks for your input Pete,your right in that I'm probably over thinking this whole thing. I bought the Eldorado from the "Guzzi doctor "in north Chicago, it's being shipped next week. He reported that their is some chrome and rubber bits from the tensioner when he dropped the oil pan. I've ordered a new set of 850 "Gilardoni" cylinder and piston kit to cover the chrome issue,( I almost went with a big bore kit,but reason kicked in). So now it's down to the timing problem. Was 74 the first year for the change from gears to chain,and in the swap the cam changed from a tapered to a straight shaft ? I guess I'll find out soon enough when I tear into it. The bike supposedly only has 35k miles on it. I've wanted one for a long time,and the prices are really skyrocketing, hopefully I haven't bitten off more then I can handle buying one that needs some TLC. Let the fun begin!

Maybe this is a red herring Chuck. I looked at the wiring diagram as well and couldn't come up with an answer on that with regards to the clutch switch and a running engine but here's a thought. When it dies ( and the OP hasnt mentioned if this means just the engine or complete electrical power) I will assume engine only, the natural instinct is to whip the clutch in and start modulating the throttle to keep it running. Maybe it's worth thinking more about what's happening with the throttle and the TPS as a possible issue. Ciao

Auction started at $100. Now 43 bids have it up to 8K!?! https://www.ebay.com/itm/174740324615?hash=item28af55c107%3Ag%3AbY8AAOSw81Zgf2FE&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500 Nostalgia and pockets run deep.

Hey, the GEI may have been better than the Bosch. Which were better relays than the Tyco, that were better than both versions of the Seimans. Then we learn that the G8HE OMRON is heads-and-shoulders better than the G8HN. "Best Relay" is a concept that was derived, partly, through this long thread. Again, thanks to so many dedicated contributors. Yet, we cannot neglect the other significant "hiccup"/misfire/stumble sources. (esp: TPS, CO Fuel Trim, 30 amp fuse failure) . . . Gotta cover all the bases!

saw 'em play it twice. Never saw Hendrix.

Have to say, Stevie Ray Vaughan's version of Voodoo Chile is one of the few examples better than Hendrix' original.

Just reviewed this ten+ year-long thread. Restored some links and images and refreshed my memory of all the contributors. "Thank you, gentlemen! " is yet appropriate. Like so many conditions involving complex systems, a V11 "Nasty Hiccup" is likely "multi-causal." In this case: Weak/under-rated relays + bad TPS + negative CO Fuel Trim setting + faulty coil wire connection + failed 30 amp charge fuse = *Nasty Hiccup*! (At one point in those ten+years, even loose intake clamps made a contribution to the elusive badness . . .)

Probably the reason for change was the simple one, cost. In all honesty with your Eldo I'd have to ask why go to the trouble of swapping? A chain with a decent Valtek type tensioner will last at least 120,000km. Are you really likely to ride a nearly 50 year old bike that far in your lifetime? Id be far more concerned about establishing if it still has chrome bores and if it does? Fixing that before I worried about the cam drive. You'll also find that if you are looking for a set of the original Guzzi gears the oil pump gear is different from memory, straight shaft on one set up, tapered shaft on the other. I might be mistaken on that, dealing with that stuff was a lifetime ago. Really though on a 50 year old vehicle worrying about the cam drive is a bit like worrying about the mouse hole in the skirting board when you're sitting in a room with a hungry tiger!😂

The single biggest improvement you can make to the shift action of your V11 is to lengthen the shift lever arm and incorporate a new eye end mount hole 12mm ctr to ctr from the original upper hole. Shortens up the shift action to Japanese bike standards and gives the gearbox return spring greater leverage over the shift lever. It also makes the shift action a little bit stiffer which means you need a little more load on the lever before it shifts gear which makes for a faster cleaner shift. This is the shift selector. The area that is blued rides over the pins on the shift drum during the lever return after a shift. It usually has a rough finish and often doesn't bear across the full face of the pin and causes the shifter to hang up on return. Draw file it smooth and blue it to check for correct contact and if it isn't right dress it so it is. Do the other face on the left of photo as well of course.This arm always has a bend in it due to the way its stamped from a flat sheet. Carefully rework it so its flat and straight without any twists and polish the faces with some fine emory. The shifter mechanism stop can allow over travel of the mechanism. This one has had pads welded to the stop faces and dressed back to prevent this happening. Don't ever be tempted to adjust the large eccentric on the shifter cover with it fitted to the bike. It is a very sensitive adjustment that controls shifter travel and over travel and needs to be on the bench to set up correctly. It wont solve your shifting woes alone so leave it alone when on the bike. Note the detent roller, it often doesn't ride correctly in the detents. Remove and bend the roller arm until it locates correctly. Note the different covers, the later type on the left with the shift selector arm return limit adjustable eccentric and the older type on the right with the fixed roll pin. Set up the eccentric with about 0.030" clearance to the shift arm at its closest point in the travel. This later unit also has the extra banana shaped support plate. Guzzi sell a mod kit for the earlier bikes. A close up of the return limit eccentric adjuster on the later covers. The return spring can be installed the wrong way. Make sure when fitted the spring isn't contacting the cover, if it is remove it and install the other way. On the bench set up and ready to install. The V11 shifts like a Japanese bike now, short travel, slick shifts with or without using the clutch and no return binding. This is the mod kit which comes with new cover with eccentric adjuster, new selector wheel pins with the ability to fit the banana support link and from memory a new shift selector arm and spring and new centering spring. Note the shifter input arm and stop assembly in the lower right hand of the photo. The pin you can see under the shifter wheel with the spring arms around it is the large eccentric adjuster which controls the travel of the shift mechanism and provides the stops in both directions. As mentioned earlier adjust it on the bench only, its very sensitive and governs how far the mechanism moves the gear selector dog to engage the gears. If its a long way out you can have a situation where it moves the gear to a fully engaged position and then pulls it partially out of engagement during the shift and under engagement in the other direction. Ciao

I had a great ride today up the coast to Jenner ( on the Pacific Ocean ) and back..about 220 miles all in all. Beautiful day and this is a beautiful route once you leave the FWY in San Rafael...on the way up you wind thru Lucas Ranch road and up HWY 1 past Pt.Reyes Station..then at Jenner you cut back east on 116 along the Russian River and thru beautiful Sonoma wine country all the way back to HWY1 Only thing missing was my Scura as she is still in the middle of restoration...But at least I did have my S4RS which runs awesome!

Just trying to tie the clutch action to the recovery of the running. Can't see the clutch switch having an effect and working the throttle isn't going to recover a cut in ignition or loss of fuel supply. Only thing left is TPS. No guarantee of course. You can buy a new PF3C TPS from CA Cycleworks for $92us Ciao

The older PF09 on my Daytona yes the later PF03 on the V11's no. My image is of the PF09 Ciao

Yes true but he says he's covered the SS switch. Ciao

Could it be the side stand is not resting hard against the switch? Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk

I agree.. looked at the schematic and it looks to me that it is only involved in starting. It just seems strange that it always works. That sounds like ignition has been lost then returns after a few revolutions. I'm sure it is frustrating, but think of the pleasure you will get from solving it.

Yes docc and here's what the inside of an earlier TPS looks like after a while. Note the crud and debris on the wiper and track. Ciao

I’ve got a buddy with a V85 and a drum brake Eldorado loop frame. He rides the loop the most. He was going to buy a new V7, but when he found and rode the loop he fell in love and passed on the V7.

"I'm gonna break my rusty cage. And run."

I loaded mine in the truck and dropped it off for electrical service. Hoping for a working bike next weekend. She's got new shoes and needs to go dancing.

drift

He plays around here in the Bay area semi regularly..they had a big benefit for him here just before covid....some medical issues I believe. Great talent!!

I recall hearing the idea that the Reggae beat was a product of the wavering, modulated FM radio signal broadcasting New Orleans jazz across the Gulf of Mexico to Jamaica. In that case, I figure J.J. Cale didn't have any better reception up in Tulsa . . .

April 2, that's early up here. 11c and sun, Great. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

I love it when people keep a bike or car for a significant percentage of their life. A tangible, physical connection to their life journey and history. I've sold so many things over time and all I have to show for it at the end of the day is some soulless cash in the bank. Very nice. Phil

Wow, Dave! Soooooo nicely done! Thank you for sharing with us!

Thats the way my 2001 is wired. Notice how it bypasses the ignition switch, this bike will never suffer from Startus Interuptus. A couple of years later they used Fuse 5 for the headlight and used Fuse 4 through the ignition switch to try and feed the start relay, I'm guessing this improved on charging at the expense of reliable starting. Sorry about the sketch, you can check it from Carl's http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif

At the moment I just have a length of wire stuffed in 30 to 87 of the relay socket. For some reason I am reluctant to change the wiring, if I find a good side-stand switch I will re-instate it, perhaps a magnet activated reed switch thus avoiding the chance of future corrosion I agree, it is really the Neutral relay

The foil is GONE .