Leaderboard

OK! it stopped raining and I went out and removed the phase sensor, cleaned it.. and indeed, that oring was all messed up. So I removed the ring.. it was chwed up and expanded etc.. no good. Cleaned the mating surface as best I could.. put it back in.. and VOLA! the bike works! Now it has done this before... so not sure if its just back to its intermitant "runs Great! then dies in a few miles- or its actually now set correctly. My brother is nearly here so I may try and ride up and he will follow and see how far I get. NO oring but a bit of oil leakage I can deal with at this point.

This behaviour sounds exactly like mine did. Only happened when the bike was hot, eventually traced back the problem to the phase sensor. A non-oil compatible o-ring underneath it had swollen, causing the mounting plate to bend and the phase sensor move away from the phonic wheel causing these issues. A new o-ring did the trick in my case. Not saying in your case it is the o-ring, but the phase sensor explains the behaviour very well.

Fuel filter ever been replaced?

#5 is the one of the two most stressed relays on your early Sport. It is at the back. Your #1 is the next most stressed. But, it seems you took care of this with the proper High Current G8HE OMRONS? A set of simple (but neglected) connections to check are beneath the fuse block for the front two fuses. The fuse block can be lifted (pried) up and these connectors inspected and secured:

Re-check main battery connections

Multimeter will tell you, shoud read 580 - 650 ohm I think. Phase sensor coud work fine cold, but dead when hot, easy to check. Cheers Tom

Phase sensor. I'm betting a dollar, now..

The phase/timing sensor is located at the top/left of the timing chest forward of the left cylinder. Its spacer is a metal shim under the hold-down flange. It is not spaced by the O-ring (although Tinus89's swelled O-ring interfered with his. @jetboy, does your Sport still have the electric petcock? If so, pull back the rubber boot and inspect the electrical connections. Those wires have been known to break causing a fuel starvation.

I agree with Chuck. That sensor wire makes a sharp angle when mounted sometimes and can break or stress the wiring inside, can get worse when engine is hot as the wire shielding can get soft.

My bet is on the phase sensor, too. It certainly can't hurt to put fresh gas in it, though, although didn't you have this problem before the trip?

its not SUPER new. 3 years? there were a lot of dragon flies. still- that should not have those symptoms. I'll clean it out anyway as soon as the guy gets back and I can borrow some more tools. Meanwhile, I think I may have found it. the timing sensor cable must have been too close to the engine, the rubber has two burn marks in it, making divots. I don't see any wires but it could have been enough to fry them. I may take it out and see if I can repair it. any harm in just pulling that sensor side with the hex bolts? or do I have to do a thing before I do that? may totally not be the problem, but it looks suspicious. hopefully someone in town is better at soldering than me (also I have no tools for that one)

sounding like fuel maybe. one of those disintegrating filters? water in the tank? can't remember is the bike new to you?

That is sooooooo unlikely. More likely a connection or switch. 1) Does it return to normal when cooled down? 2) Does the fault change with sidestand up versus down?

Oh, a flat-tappet AirB&B + V11LM.com . . . Does it run normally now that it has cooled down? [V11Sport-OhShitHotLine - Operators are standing by . . .]

I'll take a look at the ignition switch. I thought maybe that would be it and tried turning it on and off while riding to see if the bike would start working again... this seemed to sometimes work, but other times no effect. But also many other things "seemed" to work - its so intermittent. I can't find a pattern. Not sure I can service it on the roadside here. see what I can do. Good news is the airbnb guy has some tools and invited me to have dinner with them. cool surfer dude with a VW van... so you know hes constantly having to work ont hat thing.

Are you also posting on Wild Guzzi that would improve your chances, all the Guzzis back then used the same sensor If not a member on there somehow send your cell No so we can link you up.

So the fuel pump is running but just for a couple of seconds? Is it still running while cranking over, if not it's probably the Phase sensor. The phase sensor turns on the injection relay through the ECU, the injection relay turns on the pump and the ignition coils, if the Phase sensor dies you lose the injection relay, pump, spark & injectors. You could make sure no-ones added extra spacers to the sensor, sometimes that gets done in an attempt to make it oil tight. The gap should be 0.6 - 1.2mm. Probably your best bet to find another sensor is to borrow one from a local Guzzi owner.

As Tomchi said, here's the schematic, the sensor has a short cable plugged in under the tank somewhere, measure between 1 & 2. Note also how the petcock fuse is right on the critical path battery to ECU relay, if you hot wire to fuse 8 it will also energize the ECU relay, the ECU will energize the injection relay. Actually that's a good point, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key On, if not it's something missing in the main interlock circuit. The pump will still run even if the Phase sensor has failed but only for a couple of seconds, if the pumps not running for the initial 2 seconds chinches are the Phase sensor is OK. (its a while since I looked at an old guzzi wiring LOL) When you turn the key On the pump runs independent of the sensor but only for a couple of seconds. When you crank the motor the sensor lets the ECU know and it turns the pump back On Actually for the starter to work, ignition switch, Sidestand relay and kill switch all have to be closed, that feeds the Start button.

@jetboy, the O-ring is a standard #112. Viton should be available at a quality parts store.

It might well be the phase sensor others have suggested but it could be just a simple electrical fault. I would hot wire from the battery to the ECU, that will tell you one way or the other. The phase sensor is a very simple device, just a coil wound over a small magnet but it's absolutely vital, a good idea to carry one on a trip because there isn't work around that I know of. Sorry I don't seem to be able to post a link here but basically you need to be able to liven up fuse 8, the petcock fuse, that will back feed the ECU relay and so turn on the ECU. Be warned this will bypass the ignition switch, side stand switch and kill switch but that beats being stuck on the road. An alternative is reading the Voltage at fuse 8 with the key On, it should be alive, if not it's one of the 3 switches I listed above. I had a light on fuse 8, Docc named it the Go Winkie light.

it may still not be related at all- as it sometimes for no reason jsut does work for a while. but fingers crossed that is the issue identified- and partially abated. burned the heck out of myself getting to it though.

I usually leave my phaser set to “stun”.....

it does and I inspected them.. they look fine. but they could be a problem for sure. on the list to do a better job once I get it to the shop. anything come to your collective minds about things I would need to order vs just make work? I only have a limited time in oregon to see if I can fix it so probably need to order now and express it.

I have a 2007 Norge and love it. I use it on "longer rides" and when I need the use of the bags/trunk. I plan on hitting the road for a few days on it later this year....thinking a run up to the Barber Museum. It's only an 8 hr ride from home.

could be so many things I guess. I am waiting to go into town and get some fresh gas- I think if that is not it.. then I can't do much more here. this morning- as cold as you want- it barely got started, then got about 1/4 mile and conked out. I just left it there and did not push it back this time. I had hoped it had just enough to get into town and get some gas but no go.

The short gearing, drag bars and lower seat make my Centauro a wonderful city bike. While the 12S is a consumate sport tourer. Both are from the house of Marabese.

Agreed

Did anyone suggest the side stand switch? Bypass that.. If you do suspect bad fuel, try using Heet instead of seafoam. Maybe a can of octane booster if that’s available there.

Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf Josh, I suspect that your phase/revolution sensor PN GU01721600 is bad. It is a coil of very fine wire inside a resin body. It can work ok when cold, but become open circuit as the engine warms up. If the connection in the coil wire is intermittent, then the engine will be erratic. See links below to previous posts including an alternate non-Guzzi part source, and gap setting instruction attached. phase sensor repair - How to... - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19509-v11-sneeze/&tab=comments#elControls_211454_menu Timing sensor Leak - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

When you find the problem, you can say "I have found it" - which is a fun thing to say in Eureka. If you don't believe me, just ask Archimedes.

Dave- is there a (email) list to be on to get a heads up on that show each year? Somehow I only see that its happening every year after the fact. User error I’m sure, but whatever... I need a nanny I guess.

You can remove the sensor if you think the wires are damaged. Just be careful on re-install that you have the correct spacers. There could be none, or 3 spacers, or who knows... whatever. Just put it back exactly how it was. They are very sensitive and need an exact gap to run properly. FYI, I do have a spare ECU and possibly other stuff, that I could post tomorrow if you have a need (and I agree that needing and ECU seems very unlikely.)

I just took it out. it was different, but not fixed. Seems to run perfectly then suddenly cuts out. now its backfiring more- which it did not do (as much)before. not out the pipes but back up through the intake. kickstand seems to have no effect (other than it will kill the engine if its down in gear etc. )

yes, I thought it was vapor lock. sorry trying to fix bike while also checking in here. once more going over electrical. here is the old one: its been fine since then BUT i had not tried to ride it for 8 hours straight either.

and was "tank suck" discussed?

Have you ever serviced and inspected your ignition switch?

post a link to the original problem

Dynotec makes the Centauro look a bit better IMHO

Doing some research reading the December 1992 issue of AMA Magazine I came across this advertisement. Then it hit me, I too, have been primarily driven by my shaft in a lusty manner for the better part of my entire life! Hmmmmm......here I was thinking it was more complicated then that.

Fuel pump turns on and pumps fuel. Used that to clean the lines of the possibly bad fuel! Sadly i am sending this from the side of the road. Ran beautifully for about 2 miles then just stopped. And back to doing the weird rev cycle. Still waiting on pick up. Should be here in about 30 min

well. I took it out- tried to get to town and it started off fine.. then crapped out completely. I had to push it back and it was like 1/2 a mile and I am now officially exhausted. I am starting to think: YES it could be bad gas. at this point its all I have left except that one wire. and the wires seems to have no effect if I move it or pinch it etc... so its probably fine actually. unfortunately. If its bad gas that will be excellent- as I can just get new gas. I got petrol at a fairly normal station up here-- but it DID start to happen right after i got that gas, and progressively got worse. perhaps as I ran through the decent gas still in the tank. seems crazy it could really be that bad, but its worth a shot. Drain, Seafoam, and fill. maybe that will fix it! tomorrow. its dark now.