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Picked up the Scura yesterday, after a long wait for a voltage regulator. Finally, it runs again (been sitting for over 2 years, maybe 3). Took it on a romp, and remembered how much fun this bike is. WOT at 6,500 RPM up a long, curvy grade... just lovely.

Seems I tried to turn my GB into one of those . . . Just back from a Completion Ride after thirteen weeks and parts from three continents, several set-backs and learning experiences. Thank goodness for good friends and Polished Tools!

Bolted on the Shindengen 847 MOSFET regulator today. Charging 14.5V. Yes, I can finally go for a ride:) No more charging light. No charging light ever(?) because the blue and red/black wire to the charge lamp(reference voltage) has no connection with the new regulator. Is there a way to get it back, or do I have to look for another type of voltage monitoring? EDIT: I like simplicity. This is simplicity: SparkBright Eclipse No-brainer?

two kinds of relays, those that work and those that don't.

One can hope. she has given me some challenges lately having been rather neglected in favor of riding (and fussing endlessly with) mySport. The GB is my first bike, bought new in '92. And one of my finest Polished Things . . .

Trying to put my "other bike" back in service reminds me how poignant : "Polished Wrenches for Polished Things" . . .

I dig! I dig!

Well, seems "somebody" must have bought the last 1200 or so OMRON G8HE High Current 5-pin micro-relays. Perhaps the source will present itself. Prolly ain't gwanna be five bucks anymore . . . "Pssst! Hey! Hey, buddy . . . gotch'yer C-form H-E ree-layz, here. Comes with a free horse."

Recent reports that Online Components no longer has the C-form (5-pin) G8HE. They apparently have the A-form (4-pin) which can be used in Positions 2-5 on our V11, but not Position #1/ Start Relay. That requires a Form C/ 5-pin. If anyone discovers a source for the discontinued OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12, please post!

As many of you know, I am a fan of the OMRON relays for the V11. I found Ryland3210's evaluation compelling and have seen numerous (other) relay failures on V11 over the years. Yet, I'm afraid I keep posting a Digikey link for an part no longer available through them. I struggle with deciphering this part number: G8HN-1C2T-R DC12 --->EDIT (Mar 28 2018): Best (High Current) Relay, derived from this thread: Link to this post on page 5: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

G'day( or good evening in the Northern hemisphere ) mate ! That sounds right ( I'm not that well versed in these matters ). It was Brad Black ( Brad the Bike Boy), a well known ( world wide actually ) Ducati mechanic who suggested putting it on when my original one gave up the ghost many moons ago.He swears by them so I figured if he recommends them they must be the way to go! Never had cause to even think about it again and I ride year round here in Victoria ( well Covid lockdowns excluded ) and don't ever charge the battery. Anyway mate you shouldn't have to think about your reg/rec again so hopefully you can get out there and enjoy your summer riding season. Cheers Guzzler Ps we've just had a once in 10/20 years storm come through which wiped out the power for 3 x days! We had a lull in the storm where the winds and rain stopped and I thought maybe I'll sneak out on the greenie.Wife insisted we take the car and charge her phone ( our only connection to the world ) whilst we're driving. Wow, very very glad I left the bike at home! Also BLOODY GLAD to be reconnected to the V11 world again!!

Good evening mate! Regarding the «3 wires something», the V11 has a single-phase stator while the Shindengen regulator is made for 3-phase. Jack from Roadstercycle confirmed it works with both systems. Just to cut and crimp one of them - and use any 2 of the 3, he told. The original Ducati R/R has a connection for reference voltage, which connects to the charging light. No such on the Shindengen. That's why the lamp died for good I guess:) No lamp - no problem... haha!

G'day mate I 've had a Shendengan Reg/rec on my bike for about 10 or more years! Yep they are good! Anyways I don't have the battery light on mine as I remember Brad ( mechanic ) mentioning that this couldn't be connected!! Something about 3 wires and only 2 connections?Or something along those lines. I look at it as a small price to pay for not having to worry about reg/rec's again. Cheers Guzzler

Well, there was also Honda's "Looking FOR a problem" bikes, the ones with the oval & elliptical pistons. The Motorcycle Museum in Solvang has one.

Enough love that the hairy-knuckled Neanderthal creep that owns would check the oil and top it up. I had gotten where I only rode it two or three times a year (mostly out of guilt). Then I resolved to ride her once a month, but failed to consider thirty year old valve seals with 50,000 miles. What a disheartenment. So, fresh rockers, cam, rings, light valve lap and bore hone. And a frustrating education on how the automatic double compression release really works and why the motor won't start if one little, tiny part is left out . . .

When I first saw a GB500, I wanted it badly. That was when they were new and I was riding a Yamaha Radian (a pretty sweet little 600 standard). But at that time I also wanted more power, and ended going to a Yamaha FJ1100. So... it's a Honda, which means it will run forever with just a little love. What kind of love does she need?

Is the GB500 going to come out and play?

What brand did you go off tangent with ? Just for discussion's sake ; brakes are going to wear pads or rotors . Something has to "wear out" .

Please explain . You don't give much to work with .

Yes indeed I am a weak man when it comes to these spectacular machines. Hope they always do well in the market place. Ciao

The datasheet on this TE Connectivity 1-form-C HC (High Current) appears to check out. Not sure where they are made, or if we can even get them. Remember, there are high current loads on certain of our V11 relays that benefit from true high current relays with quality construction like silver contacts. https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/418/5/NG_DS_V23074-X0000-A001_0615-844367.pdf

If you intent to remove the recesses on the back of the plate and move them to the front for cosmetical reasons, please also consider the fairly large radiusses used on this fairly stressed part. If you design the recess on the front side just to be milled out with an e.g. 10mm mill on a CNC lathe, the very small internal radius in the recess may still cause cracking, even though the design is strong enough for the general loads. Short version: when reproducing a casted part by CNC process, seriously consider the radiusses.

I recently got some Omrons from Verical https://www.verical.com/ the onlinecomponents order I placed never arrived- not sure it was their fault but they did not offer a refund or replacement- saying it was too late when I told them the package did not arrive. I was a bit late checking, but I'd been patiently waiting.. or so I thought. Verical showed up quick and seem to work!

Docc, I don't suppose you'd ask Pyro Dan?