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Rather than start a new thread, I'll just append to this one. I've installed my Caruso gears, I'll add a sound file if I can figure out how to do that after it's on the ground. I was surprised at how much sludge was in the bottom of the front chaincase. I'm now installing my own Roper Plate, we'll see what the bottom of the pan looks like. Also, I discovered that my cam sensor clearance is...frighteningly close. .002" or so, but with zero witness marks on the sensor after 15k miles I'll not touch it. Whoopsy- imagine my surprise when I actually got the centerpunch and drill straight enough to save the original threads.

Today I circumnavigated and summited the island of Maui on a Honda Africa Twin that I rented from Riders-Share.com. About 225 miles in total, including the famous "Road to Hana" and some less-travelled, twisty, one-lane, two-way roads on magnificent cliffs. Haleakala, the summit in the National Park, is over 10,000 feet elevation, While some of the road is at sea level - and by sea level, I men including wet pavement from wave spray. Some pics... At end of the ride, I checked my MPG: Mango Pineapple Guava Shave Ice. So I can report excellent MPG for this ride. I've been curious about the Honda Africa Twin for a long time. This was a DCT model. It was comfortable and I had a great day. But I don't think the DCT is for me. I'd like to try one with a manual transmission. While I applaud Honda for trying something new, I got really frustrated with the DCT. It would upshift automatically when I was trying to pass uphill... and upshift when I let off the gas to corner (meaning I was constantly either bogging the engine to exit, or hitting the manual downshift button with my left thumb. Sometimes it would downshift mid corner, which I found unsettling (especially in the dirt road sections). The DCT was kind of nice on straight and level, and small grades with easy curves - like a giant scooter. On the rough pavement and dirt, when I stood up, I kept doing "phantom shifts" with my left foot... but of course, there was no shifter. I suppose we will all have to get used to stuff like this as we move toward electric motorcycles. But I still like manual shifting. I think it's part of the fun of riding.

I just measured the swingarm shock mounting bolt on a 1100 Sport I . 12mm Dia. by 130mm length as measured to the inside face of the cap head.

Have you called Walt and asked him to reschedule the other group?

In the UK, at least where I am from, everything seems to be online only. Not many independent fastener stores left, just DIY places that sell general house stuff.

I feel like there might be paint over this rust... At least I cleaned up the driveshaft and greased the notorious front UJ. I should have taken before shots of the back one, was unrecognisable.

Yes, get the same 5 prong relays replacement for all of them. Swapping relays is an essential practice and long standing pastime and hobby in the Guzzi world. BTW- I'd wager that some of the other dash functions weren't working but I can't think off the top of my head what other functions that relay controls.

Banana may have been an exaggeration.

Having just R&Red my rear wheel, I noted that the axle bearing on the drive side was marked as made in Poland. From past misadventures, I do know that the basic number of the bearing only specs out the physical size. As gstallons correctly notes, it's all the BRLXQ on the end that tells you how soon you will have to replace it.

Yeah, well, they got quite >JEM< quiet after the noise stopped . . . (Here, again, I had a short wheel bearing spacer, 112mm - not the correct 113mm, but those JEM SKF ate up in no time and left me stranded on failed new bearings.)

RS is rubber seal H is heavy duty JEM is quiet running, apparently.

Go to a fastener store and try to find a bolt with a non threaded length to suit your need . You can cut to fit your need . Take a hacksaw and remove the "extra" , leaving a couple of threads and spray this with whatever you feel comfortable with . FWIW , When the shock bolt is tightened , the only thing that is gonna "move" is the rod end on the shock . Yjis bolt and everything it tightens becomes one piece .

The SKF that failed me were not the SKF 6204-2RSH/C3 as @Grim sourced. (These had rather thin inner races as shown in the image posted): SKF 6204 2RSJEM (Made in Argentina) I understand the increased radial tolerance of the C3, and 2RS (two rubber seals), but do not know what the difference in the suffixes "H" and "JEM" might specify . . . Looks like "H" could mean case-hardened inner ring (good!) and the "J" : "stamped steel cage" (bad?) . . .

Keep in mind ALL that prefix and suffix stuff means EVERYTHING . You don't buy the best price , you buy the best quality for the application . Do your research

(Left to right: Romanian Koyo C3 / Xhinese "National" bought as Federal Mogul / Argentinian SKF ):

The shock mount bolt is 12.9 hardness. The swingarm lock nuts are 30mm (I see that I had to add a 30mm socket to my toolset).

Early Workshop Manual shows the drive side wheel bearing as 20X47X14. AFAIK, the later wheels used the exact same bearings. Source QUALITY bearings. I have settled on KOYO C3 after all of my rear axle bearing nightmares (internal spacer 1 mm too short!). I don't see the dimensions of the bolt fasteneing the lower shock eye to the swingarm, but the PN is GU98610616. (Perhaps we can find its specification with that PN.) With that bolt bent, do VERY CAREFULLY inspect the shock eye! They are prone to cracking/breaking!

At least there are free returns if you have Amazon Prime! In Mandello, they look around and see only brand new bikes. Not one of them needs replacement parts, so why should anyone else?

The Gambalunga won the class and maybe best of show. Dunno, didn't stick around that long.

Well, I thought it was going to be good but it was more than good. It was gooder! I have never seen so many V11 Sports in one place. I think I counted six. Here's a taste. There will be a video released in the next week with more goodness. I don't recall what he was asking for the silver bike. The LeMans was $4k. More pictures in the next post.