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Ok, probably the last post here unless questions. I went for a short, 11 mile sub-50mph shakedown, all low throttle sub-4000rpms. First, I cannot overstate how much more cleanly this thing drives at low rpm and low throttle. The 'city manners' are incredibly improved. The idle is steady, stable, and never missed a single beat, even though it's 100rpm lower than I had it set previously. The 'driveline snatch' at slow speed/low throttle have *disappeared*. I have to attribute this to idle/low rpm spark timing being precise, which leads to the conclusion that the stock chain tensioner is not tight enough to control the cam/crank relationship at low rpms. Significantly, the whole reason I put these gears in was because I 'thought' I heard the cam chain slapping around, and didn't know whether the bike had a spring tensioner or manual and figured if I'm in there I may as well go all the way. Supporting that suspicion is that during today's ride I had the fairing on and everything final assembled, and the reflected engine noise from the front is *immensely* lower. There was enough noise with the chain to be a constant source of discontent; not only are the gears quiet, they are comparatively silent. I've leaned my idle mixture and yesterday's ride told me the plugs are way rich at the throttle settings I rode today, though I've yet to read the plugs with my changes it felt fine which means still plenty rich. I'll have to re-tune everything, certainly everything in the low RPM columns and the low throttle settings. We'll see. At the end of the day, Joe's gears are what should be in them from the factory...but Guzzi already knew that a long time ago, didn't they? Edit; I'll add here that I've always used the 'book value' valve lash settings; This time I've used the Guzziology values, Euro +.002" I think, .006" for intakes and .008" for exhaust. It's probably a contributor, but I would not expect that to make the huge difference I feel.

I assume that is because oil pumps don't pump pressure, they pump flow. It is only resistance to that flow that creates pressure. With no resistance to flow there is no pressure. At higher rpms the resistance to oil flow likely goes down, while flow is going up at the same rate, due to increased motion of the various internal parts like the crank and rods.

"Get There. Bring Tools."

...something I should have done the first time I used the kickstand; Cut the dang post off the ridiculous self-retractor.

Even if belated. Daughter presented me with the "100th Anniversary Edition" of Ian Falloon's The Complete Book of Moto Guzzi. For such a small company, they have made a amazing variety of models and designs, albeit with some badge-engineering tossed in. Paging through, I was familiar with the smaller US models, as the tiddlers were huge in a 1960s teenager's life. I was elated to see a nice shot of a 2004 Ballabio on pages 204-205 announcing the Aprilia era. I was deflated when it was described as the "base V11 Sport."

The cases on my '01 V11 LM were redone through warranty. It came back with a wrinkled finish that almost matched the finish on the gearbox. I could only spot the difference from very close by. I believe it was done by a firm in Germany. Afaik they redid all the bad cases.

Sold locally. Was a lot of fun owning this V11 for a few years!

Mine were 670 UK pounds in February, shipping in. I'd expect that with materials skyrocketing, they'll be more today. E.

Thanks for sharing. Very interesting topic. No one has mentioned the cost, so I guess I have to ask Mr. Caruso...

Thanks, guys. I'm planning to mount a steel angle behind the 6mm nut and fastening the hose with a stainless steel-rubber clamp to keep the line away from the crossover. Next up is to mount a SparkBright Eclipse voltage monitor. I did that for another V11 owner today after replacing his defective regulator with a direct connected Shindengen MOSFET regulator. Made a 12mm hole in his carbon instrument panel beneath the rev-counter. On my Greenie I will try to fit it in the original charge lamp place, but the red plastic with the charge sign must be removed because of the auto-dimming feature. Behind the red plastic, the LED will dim too much. It needs to see daylight:)

Great explanation..............the oil pump is a positive displacement pump and any pump will produce will produce either pressure, flow or a mixture of both dependent on conditions downstream of the pump. I was stuck in the belief that the downstream restrictions were fixed but I suppose their not dependent on leak off from the components, which will rise with RPM, the leakge rate or restriction must alter at approximately the same rate as the pump flowrate rises holding pressure more or less at a fixed value. Thanks for that

Me: I’m sorry, but I don’t have anymore treats to give you.

Agree ☝️ stainless steel zip ties can also help keep lines in place.

That is a very pretty thing! (Seems you might consider loosening the connection of the oil return line to the sump and rotate it away from the contact with the exhaust and re-tighten to hold it closer to the gearbox.)

Ah hain't skeert.

Realize you're joking but that's not necessarily the case. Phil told me about a guy in Germany who actually blocked off his cooler because the bike ran too cold and Germany has, if anything higher summer temps than here in not so balmy Jockland. Other guys in the US run Centauros at ambients that would cook my engine and yet don't seem to have a problem. Another point is that above 3k RPM my 1100 Sporti and the HiCam don't appear to make significantly higher pressures. Why I don't know, logic tells you pressure should rise with RPM but after 3k or so it doesn't appear to increase significantly. It isn't always the PRV coming into play at high temps when the overall pressure is lower increasing the revs above 3k doesn't make any great difference to the oil pressure. I've yet to wring its neck to 8k, but between 3 and 5k I only see 2-3 psi difference.

[emoji736] Mistral x-over Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All I know is that I wanted a Royal Oilyfield, aka Oily Enfield 750 Interceptor (chrome tank) in 1970. Having never purchased one, I stand acquitted of any contribution to the 1973 oil crisis.

Jesus Doc. We need a satellite SSR in New Mexico or Colorado or something for all us Westerners............ Even if I took the slab me and the boys would be 5000 K one way. Not lookin for any sympathy........ just sayin.

The bassman is not allowed to do that . . . .

Well, yeah.. I did get ahead a bit.

Oil oil oil Can't do with out it Oil oil oil It's misunderstood... Pretty sure that is actually the chorus . . .

Oil oil oil Can't do with out it Oil oil oil It's misunderstood.. Back to you, Docc..

You can expect the warmest welcome!

Cheer up, y'all . . . https://www.motorkari.cz/clanky/clanky-divka-mesice/monika-moto-guzzi-stelvio-tt-13264.html?kid=9791

My Rottweiler would routinely eat the bumper cover off the back of my truck. Never the front. After a couple replacements I decided the back of the truck was his and he could keep it any way he liked it . . .

Probably the reason for change was the simple one, cost. In all honesty with your Eldo I'd have to ask why go to the trouble of swapping? A chain with a decent Valtek type tensioner will last at least 120,000km. Are you really likely to ride a nearly 50 year old bike that far in your lifetime? Id be far more concerned about establishing if it still has chrome bores and if it does? Fixing that before I worried about the cam drive. You'll also find that if you are looking for a set of the original Guzzi gears the oil pump gear is different from memory, straight shaft on one set up, tapered shaft on the other. I might be mistaken on that, dealing with that stuff was a lifetime ago. Really though on a 50 year old vehicle worrying about the cam drive is a bit like worrying about the mouse hole in the skirting board when you're sitting in a room with a hungry tiger!😂

Let me help out. As a moderator should, after all . . .