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Well said men...think it's just the "brutish" feel I like best. If I'm going to ride on a large engine, sandwiched between two wheels, I'd like to experience that sensation of the engine, smells, vibration, view and look of the engine, body etc. If I want something quiet/smooth, I'll hop in my car. My 96 Buell S1 also provides a great experience - it's raucous, loud, simple, lightweight and handles beautifully - really cool little bike. Sort of a Ducati Monster, powered by a breathed-on Harley 1200 Sportster motor...

Anytime you can upgrade something and keep it factory appearing is always a classy touch! That looks and works excellent!

This is actually in Marvic's gallery. Appear to be 18" but it does look effective.

You will probably find the return tube the culprit . It will be easy or a MF to change . The easiest and best purchase will be MG Cycle . When you install , make sure you clock the hose clamps where they will be easy to tighten .

Kinda spooky stopping in at the Lodge at Tellico to the empty garage. Only The Ghost of SpineRaids Past . . .

http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/cerchi-per-moto/oz-motorbike-aluminum-and-magnesium-rims/ https://shop.daes-mototec.com/de/Fahrwerk-7/Fahrwerk-24/

Here are a couple of Meinolf's posts where he confirms the "opening at idle is not critical" . . . "The opening at idle is not critical. It will be what results out of setting the required idle speed with both cylinders synchronized carefully." "The value after reconnecting the linkage doesn't have to be 525mV. It can be 500 or 400mV. The ECU will interpolate anyway (unless you follow below procedure, then your idle setting is exactly at a break point). Set it so the specific bike idles best." [docc added the emphasis.]

While not using this map, I recall agreeing with @Meinolf that, once all the other parameters are set (TPS at 157mv, CO fuel trim at zero, valves set, and throttle bodies balanced), you can put the idle wherever you (and the motor) are happiest. Personally, I prefer somewhere 1250-1350 which varies on its own under various conditions.

Thanks docc. Was it Eclipse or Monsoon you tried? Older series? My Eclipse seems to display the voltage precisely. The auto-dimming functionality worked great last night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But if you insist on 17s I’ve seen Honda CBR wheels used. The rear hub can be machined down and a Guzzi hub bolted up. Daytona/Sport non Cush drive drive splines are available from MG Cycle.

18” race rubber by Continental, Bridgestone and Metzeler is readily available, cheap and sticky. Marvic can make you a set of magnesium wheels in 18” for around $2400. Weight for both is less than the weight of 1 OEM. 17” tires are readily available but now you have a wheel problem. go to 18s and you have no problems. speaking from experience here, not BS. I run 18” Continentals 130 rear and beat guys on 150/160 wide 17s all the time.

Hi, thought I would give it another go, found the idle dropped to 1000 at 521mv with the air screws closed. Anyone else using this map, is it ok just just set the idle where I want it (C1100) using the left idle stop screw and not worry about the MV going up? ..Cylinders are in sync at idle and 3k. Thanks

Ah, yeah, I remember now. Running (even a good quality) 20 amp relay in a circuit pulling 22.5 amps can become an issue. The G8HE OMRON is 35 amps NO, IIRC. I realize you're looking for something specific to the left cylinder, but a general problem with the Fuel Injection/Ignition system could be suspect as well. Perhaps just swapping Rely #5 for #4 (the ECU real is pretty understressed) is worth a try and easy. Also, there are some nefarious spade connectors beneath the fuse block that feed the FI/Ignition through fuses #1 and #2: (The fuse block will just pry up out of the rubber mounts without messing with the fasteners.)

Right now I am yes. I went with the method of backing out the right side and only using the left screw.

True, that. I recall reports that the injectors are extremely difficult to extract, even on the bench. @Grim, have you looked at the ignition wire under the boot where it leaves the coil?

Which raises the point that the bypass are for idle! (or is that tick-over?). Before disturbing the injectors, you "could" try a good clean of the bypass needles and seats (throttle body or carb cleaner, and Q-tips up the passage to clean the seats. Set them to 1 turn and see what happens. Easy enough to undo. EDIT: OK, 1:1,000,000, but could there be a blockage between filter and throttle body? Could the TB shaft bush be worn out of spec? Do yours have the vacuum hoses leading from the intake rubbers inward? All are "potential" sources, even if odd. Could pull those vacuum hoses and put a cap on the intake rubber spigot, or simply hold your finger over it.

Have you swapped injectors side-for-side? With luck, the problem follows the injector. Are you speaking of the pilot screws closed?

This is my closing statement in Step 6) Idle Speed of the "Decent Tune-up" . . . "Don't worry over the *degrees of opening* or the TPS idle voltage; seriously, just put the idle where the motor idles nicely for your conditions and liking. Once Steps 1-5 are set, you can put the idle anywhere you want. But you cannot start here."

Check the crankcase vent hose. I think that is the most likely culprit.

My 89 LeMans also has the Caruso gears. But I got it with the mods already done, and I have never ridden a stock Tonti-LeMans. The PO said each mod made significant improvements. He didn't mention any head or cam work, but he was especially rhapsodic about the Zard stainless exhaust. He said the header pipes are a larger diameter than stock and "woke up" the bike. Brick on a stick... that's funny.

I spent a *lot* of research, time, and money on my '85 LM1000. The Web 86b cam is so big I had to change lifters and mill the lifter bores- yet it is far more drivable than the stock camshaft. I milled in perhaps .5 point compression and had the heads ported, but retained the stock Dellorto carbs. It's my studied opinion that the 'brutish feel' of these old hot rods is the 'brick on a stick' camshafts they had, ancient paper designs whereas the modern bikes (and aftermarket cams) have the benefit of computer dynamic modelling of both airflow and valvetrain dynamics, so both power and drivability can be largely determined before the first spark is thrown griding the cam. My '97 1100 Sport-i isn't as smooth, even with the newly installed Caruso gearset- which was an enormous improvement.

It was all going so well.. I decided that with my Mistral crossover and straight through carbon exhaust cans I should richen things up with Meinhof's map. ... But now I'm back with a weak left cylinder! Not sure what happened but it's running weak and fouling the plug. 😭 I think the lower idle uncovered it, my idle was quite high with the Ti map. Things I had done previously to get to this point: Set valves to world values. Reset TPS Did a compression test, ok Tested coil resistance, ok Air screws all the way in Synced TBs at idle with rod Synced TBs at 3k with rod No exhaust leaks New intake rubbers With all that done, the left cylinder is missing a bit at idle, if I pull the plug lead from the right cylinder then it stalls after a few seconds, however if I pull the left plug lead and the right cylinder will run happily. What could make the left cylinder do this, I'm at a bit of a loss. Thanks