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The idle MV setting is a "guide only" not a specific requirement. It's only so you can set the idle screw to a start point after you've had the Butterflys fully closed to set the TPS and have a rough idle position to begin the tuning process. Ciao

He needs to remove the air filter and look INSIDE the airbox at the airbox floor, not just at the filter. Ciao

Spent a day taking the bike apart, cleaned the top gearbox mount areas and I can't see any cracks, all looks good. I traced the oil to the bottom of the airbox, running down from the base of the loose breather hose, then down inner left an getting all over the general area. I should add that oil has also run down the inside of the airbox on the left hand side and seeped out around the intake rubber, adding to the general oilyness in the area. Anyway, good to have a cleanup with the tank and airbox off the bike

Just a heads up. Do not use a locknut on your adjustment rod....🙄 So I put this locknut on last time because I didn't trust the plastic nut not to move, but I just got everything in sync, left the bit running and as I held the plastic but in place and tightened my little locknut, I watched the sync go off by one vacuum inch. I guess it must squeez the nylon washer and pull the rod through a touch. Jeez. I did go over the intake rubbers again and do the valves yet again (using my tiny German 3.5mm spanner). Well even with everything synced I need air screws out half a turn to make it idle with Meinhof's map, I didn't use the wacky sounding valve clearances though .003 for both?! My idle still ends up at about 590mv. But, the left is not missing, which is a win I'm my book!

Long overdue list update. 09 Germany 29 Germany 32 Germany 39 Germany 46 Italy 57 Italy ( in the factory car park) 60 Italy 67 Germany 69 France 77 France 84 Italy 90 Germany 92 Germany 98 Italy 99 Germany 101 Sweden 103 Germany 107 Italy 109 Germany 111 Germany 127 Germany 128 Germany 134 Germany 135 Germany 141 Germany 146 Germany 150 Ireland 151 Germany 163 Germany 165 Netherlands 167 Germany 172 Finland 173 France 180 Germany 184 Germany 185 Germany 191 Germany 200 France 206 Slovenia 213 Slovenia 221 Spain 222 Scotland 224 England 225 Scotland 226 Germany 227 England 232 USA 250 Australia 251 Australia 254 Australia 255 Australia 261 Australia 262 Australia 267 Australia 269 USA 270 USA 272 USA 275 Australia 279 USA 280 USA 281 USA 282 Germany (Uncertain) 283 USA 287 USA 288 USA 299 Germany 300 Netherlands 301 France 306 Netherlands 310 Isle of Man 311 England 313 England 314 England 318 England 344 New Zealand 350 Australia 352 Australia 353 USA 354 USA 358 USA 363 USA 365 USA 370 USA 372 USA 373 USA 375 USA 379 USA 381 USA 383 USA 385 USA 386 USA 387 USA 389 USA 392 USA 394 USA 395 USA 396 USA 397 Italy 398 Germany 401 Australia 402 Italy 413 Germany 415 Germany 431 Italy 457 Italy 464 France 484 Wales 489 England 490 Wales 494 England 496 England 497 Northern Ireland 498 Scotland 500 England 502 Wales 505 Singapore 539 USA 544 USA 545 New Zealand 546 USA 555 Italy 556 Poland 562 Germany 563 Canada 565 Germany 568 Italy 577 Belgium 578 Germany 580 Denmark 593 Germany 595 Italy 597 USA 598 USA 599 USA 600 USA 602 USA 603 USA 608 Netherlands 617 USA 636 Germany 642 Germany 652 Germany 655 Czechia 666 Italy 670 New Zealand 672 Finland 688 Italy 699 New Zealand Total: 145 Germany: 37 Italy: 15 France: 6 Sweden: 1 Ireland: 2 Finland: 2 Netherlands: 4 Slovenia: 2 Spain: 1 USA: 40 Australia: 11 New Zealand: 4 Singapore: 1 Poland: 1 Canada: 1 Denmark: 1 Czechia: 1 UK 18: (Scotland: 3 England: 10 Isle of Man: 1 Wales: 3 Northern Ireland: 1) Belgium: 1

My 1100 Sport-i is '97. The only mod when I got it appears to be a FBF crossover pipe. With stock ECU and stock mufflers, it suffered from a relatively mild case of the 'idle stall and 3200rpm blues'. I installed a MyECU in place of the stock controller and tuned it over 10k+ miles to the point where the 3200rpm dip was tolerable and idle stalls were something short of maddening. Very recently (<200 miles) I took out the stock timing chain and wimpy chain tensioner and installed a set of Joe Caruso's cam drive gears, because it 'sounded like' the cam chain was slapping around. And I like jewelry- I could have installed the aftermarket tensioner, which worked as well in my '85 LM1000; nobody was more surprised than I to discover that the idle issues and the 3200rpm dip are *completely gone*. The idle, which I'd probably spent 2 whole man-hours over the time I've owned it getting as good as it could be, suddenly became perfect, stable, 100-150rpm higher; After tuning the mixture and setting the speed, it now idles at 1100rpm and is so steady it's almost ridiculous. I attribute this all to the precision of the trigger wheel, and the inadequate stock chain tensioner creating a bit of confusion in the timing signal at idle and perhaps a resonance at 3200rpm. So my recommendation, if the problem persists after all the obvious and desirable tune-up procedures, is to get rid of the stock timing chain tensioner and install the aftermarket one which is enormously stronger than stock- or if you have the extra gravy, a set of Caruso timing gears. I'd like to have someone else verify that my findings here are what they appear to be.

Nothing works perfectly docc it's a pretty crude system so some oil vapour still gets in the airbox and condenses over long periods of time. Who here periodically gets in and wipes out the airbox interior? Ciao

Yeah, like, "Hey, hey, bud - gotch'yer relays rat'chere. Need a sprang? You needs a sprang. Gotcha covered, bud . . ."

Congratulations, Bob. Re the 1000SP, you might also ask on WildGuzzi.com. And if you find the right machine, you could always have it shipped. Not sure about current costs, but it was about $500 with Haul Bikes a few years ago.

That is the right hose. But a leak can still be caused if that rear hose clamp is loose. What happens is the oil goes outside the metal fitting for the hose, down through the bell-housing and makes the type of mess that you have. I would try to remove at least the rear fitting of that breather hose and inspect it for internal cracks. Maybe give a twist first to see if it is loose. I once forgot to tighten up that rear hose clamp and it made a mess.

Appreciate the above places to look. Removed the tank and air box to get a better look at the situation. The breather pipe (goes from the bottom front of the spine to the top of the motor just aft of the Vee, right?) looks clean along its length and interfaces as does the return line from the side of the spine to the sump adjacent to the drain plug (right?). The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box. The airbox itself was reasonably clean and the filter wasn't oil fouled. I'm assuming that if either the crankcase vent or return line was the culprit, I'd be able to see evidence of their malfeasance somewhere along their runs. Reading thru various forum threads my understanding of what's going on here is that the crankcase breather vents thru that big tube going to the bottom front of the spine where two subsequent paths: one to the airbox; the other thru the spine to the sump return line. Please correct my thinking if wrong. At this point I'm going to check/compare the plugs....drop the sump...scope out the situation while doing a oil/filter change...and button her back up and keep an eye on things.

If the breather hose is original, consider replacing it. I don't know what they made those things of but don't trust an old one. They don't hold up to oil and heat. My '02 was shot by 2012 and my '00 needs replacing now.

I have experienced my return line banjo, which is made of a different material compared to the steel of the frame tube, to be partially filled with corrosion product & debris. I cleaned it out when I found it. I can't confirm this would cause the leakage as described as I do run pods (came without air filter box when I bought it) and my breather line runs to the ground.

True the "Dave Richardson" Lock Nut makes the synch knob a little more fiddly. It's much like holding the valve adjustment while cinching that lock nut. I do it while watching the balance tool to make sure it doesn't change. There is probably nothing wrong with using a little air bypass to get your outcome. Sounds like a success to me! And you are not the first to express some concern over the unusually loose valve lash listed . . .

You can usually hear the fuel pump on the Sport i when you turn the key, the pump will run for 3-5 seconds then shut off, a buzzing sound. When the starter is engaged then the pump starts to run again. That doesn't entirely rule out the pump BUT if it's running at all, it's not the pump. As far as pods they are not as efficient as a standard airbox. I've installed pods on various sports and Daytonas (of differing types, sponge, paper etc:) and know of several other people who have as well (and they are not idiots), nobody has ever had an issue. I don't dispute you might lose a few ponies but stating that it's a likely cause of a misfire is IMHO over egging the pudding. If it was me as @footgoose suggests, I'd flush the lines and the tank first, take all the lines off one at a time, check the conditon etc: Then I'd set up the TPS, balance the injectors and do the valves/tappets. Next I'd ceck the phonic wheel pickup is gapped correctly, it's a senor on the crankcase near the top of the bike and if it's not gapped correctly can lead to strange things. I know nothing of Power Commanders but if the misfire is still there, I'd remove it (at least temporarily) to check, the bike should not need it. Other usual suspects are coils and injectors, I'd check the injectors aren't blocked (they can be removed and and triggered individually via Guzzi diag), the coils are usually pretty reliable. The bikes had a poor reputation on the standard map, there are various people out there who can provide better, the guy I know is Will Creedon, but I pretty sure there are others. When you say it misfires and stalls at stop signs, how long have you been running when this happens, any pattern, in fresh air or traffic etc:? Is the misfire always on the one side? They can run quite hot and stalling and missing are the usual symptoms, when that happens the bike feels like it's losing power as well. Just some suggestions might help but probably not

I wouldn't recommend that personally. Unless there is debris clogging something all you do is loosen up stuff you don't want to. The drain line is via a banjo fitting anyway so it's a horizontal inlet the the pipe so contaminants don't tend to enter unless there's a LOT of stuff, usually rusty stuff in the spine. Ciao

The 1980s Moto Guzzi LeMans 4 and 5 both have an upswept lip on the tail, like a little air foil. This also was on a 1985 FJ1100 I had (and I was just looking at an FJ1200 wondering if I would enjoy "re-owning" that model.) And a similar style tail section was on the early 80s Honda CB1100F (also the CB750F and CB900F, which were earlier) So... what gives? Where did this tail style originate? Was there some theory that it helped airflow? What was the first motorcycle that had a tail that said "Give me a little lip, baby?"

Thats my suspicion docc. The breather into the airbox is also on the Left hand side as well. Ciao

"The only path I can make out is inside the airbox starting at the front where a tube enters with the trail leading into the cavernous depths on the LH side of said box." Ummmmm....

Yes docc, your bike like many is breathing oil into the airbox and it ends up on the LHS because that's the side it leans on due to the LHS side stand. Ciao

You are 1) right, 2) right, and 3) correct. That's three for three! These closed loop crankcase breathers are designed to separate the vapor portion (line to the airbox) from the liquid portion (frame spine through the return line to the sump). Some work better than others and the V11 design is not very effective at the separation, IMO. As a result, too much oil (not just vapor) ends up through the airbox. You may find that the hose connections between the top-front of the frame spine and the airbox could be more snug. Or that line has degraded.

Is this the code for the Omrons? G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 It seems they are on eBay now, they were not available last year when I looked.

My Moto Guzzi trailered off to Detroit area today. It was nice meeting the new owner Chris and his family, hopefully he’ll join here and introduce himself if he hasn’t already. I want to thank ALL in this forum for all the help freely given during my introduction to Moto Guzzis. You guys calmed my many fears during that intro, and the wealth of knowledge here is amazing.. I also have one more question, does anybody know of a decent 1000SP within 400 miles of north central Ohio? Nice one on MGNOC, but I’m not up for a trip to Maine. Thanks, Bob

This is my closing statement in Step 6) Idle Speed of the "Decent Tune-up" . . . "Don't worry over the *degrees of opening* or the TPS idle voltage; seriously, just put the idle where the motor idles nicely for your conditions and liking. Once Steps 1-5 are set, you can put the idle anywhere you want. But you cannot start here."

It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe. High Current Relays