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You might be very surprised at the lack of science put into the mapping and how loose the process is. One particular late model Guzzi when you look into the software it's obvious they started with a Ducati map because it's notated in the ID details. They didn't even bother to change it as only people digging deep into the software would find it. So you go to WM and want a map for your latest model and they just dig out maps from another customer with a similar engine design and capacity and start there. Fair enough but you do wonder sometimes how interested they really get in making it run really nicely. I also had a couple of Triumphs T595's back in the late 90's and they ran the French Sagem system. The factory released plenty of software updates to correct things like random stalling when stopping at the lights and other stuff. I thought it must be terribly hard to rectify this stuff then my friend installed a Motec unit on a customers bike and had the Triumph running and carburetting absolutely perfectly after about 30 min on the dyno. So an injection system manufacturer and a motorcycle manufacturer couldn't do what a talented guy in his own business could achieve in 30min. Sometimes the big wheels turn so slowly they just grind to a stop. Ciao

Also, good to realize the V11 has a fairly aggressive camshaft profile and only two valves for the rather large bore (rather inefficient at lower revs) combined with a light (for a Guzzi!) flywheel that does not damp the power pulses well at the lower (below 4000 rpm) revs. Also, the tachometers can be optimistic and an indicated 4,000 rpm might actually be as low as 3,500 (so that an indicated 3,000 might be 2,500-2800). Very unhappy territory for the V11. As in Texas, this time of year in the US "deep south" is very hot and humid. I always revel in the coming of autumn and when I feel the combined atmospheric conditions must match those in Mandello del Lario - the Sport knows this in its core and runs like a Labrador Retriever between the truck and the lake!

I just went and looked at a std v11 2000 fuel and ignition maps and one interesting thing is around that RPM and probable throttle opening there is a large step in the ignition advance. So 2700-3200 rpm and 4.2-5.2 deg throttle which is kind of in the area of issue. The advance change is interpolated between these cells of course and maybe I'm wrong but possibly this area of change combined with engine temp and OAT play a part. If I still had the 2 valve fitted I could have a play but of course when you want it to hickup it never does. Ciao

I was worried someone might ask this. I wanted the clock mounted some other way than a Velcro sticky pad or a double sided pad so I made up the following. This aluminium plug is a slight interference fit in the steering stem tube and is tapped in with some locktite on it to the required depth. The cap screw in the ctr is held in place by a rubber oring so it doesn't fall out when the clock isn't installed. So the cap screw head faces downwards and can be accessed from the bottom of the lower triple clamp up the hollow centre with quarter drive extensions and a 3mm allen head bit. So because you cant get a single long extension up the steering stem tube with the front wheel on you feed 4 short extensions up there as you go. The bit holder on the end has a collar I made to centralise the holder in the centre of the tube so its a simple task of feeding the extensions up the tube and connecting them 1 at a time and when the 3mm bit arrives at the allen head screw just twist it until it drops into the head. Simple and easy as the tool is centred and all you need to do is apply upward pressure and rotate until it engages. With the triple crown nut I machined it down until it was 1mm above flush with the top of the clamp and drilled out the std hex hole round to locate the spigot on the back face of the clock. With the hex drilled out you need a way to install and tighten the top nut now so I drilled 2x 3mm holes which you use a pin wrench on. The pin wrench is the small brass tool in the image above. The object was to have the clock as close to the top surface of the triple clamp as possible but the holding force of the fixing screw was taken by the spigot on the back of the clock so the fixing screw wasn't trying the pull the spigot out the back of the clock rear cover. So here it is ready to slip the clock into the locating hole with one hand and with the other on the ratchet and extensions tighten it down. Easier to do than it sounds. If you had the front wheel and fender off it would just need 1, 12" 1/4 drive extension and the ratchet. Yes I know, sanity is in short supply here. Ciao

It's a question that has been around as long as the bike and experience by many including myself. I don't know of anyone having an answer to it. Some suggested wear in the cam chain affecting the ignition pickup but mine still did it after I upgraded to gears. My experience is the same as your and it appears to come and go with changes in OAT. If I still had the 2 valve engine in the bike I would be experimenting with fuel mapping via Tunerpro in the affected area and the engine temp break point maybe. The Daytona engine doesn't have the issue. Ciao

If any one, or a combination, of the tuning parameters are off it could contribute to this behavior. It is very common that the factory CO Fuel Trim setting is in the very negative range. That is, of course, a specific and important step in the Decent Tune-up (zero the CO Fuel Trim). This behavior is also common to a bad TPS. I have never been able to diagnose the TPS looking at millivoltage, but have found bad ones by watching the resistance across the TPS while slowly opening and closing the throttle looking for skips, jumps, or open readings. That said, the V11 is really not happy in these very high temperatures or at those low RPM. The combination can be particularly aggravating. So, simply riding in a lower gear to let the motor rev more freely may be all that is needed . . .

Got around to doing this. Not totally enamoured by the look but a clocks a useful thing on a bike so that tips the scales. I was struggling with finding somewhere to fit it that didn't look too odd and I finally went with a bolt on fit which involved a bit of work. If anyone is interested in the process I'll add to this thread. Ciao

Interesting. Go to 6:45 for stainless exhausts. Ciao

Good grief, made me climb the ladder and wake up ol' 3-31 and remind myself how old I am. I have only 4 relays. Weights; Siemens original 15.1g GEI Chinese, 18.9g Omron USA, 20.1g The Omrons aren't noticeably heavier than what's in the bike, I'd been fondling my Seimens spares.

I think that there's not that many options on the V11 to mount that particular clock size in a position that looks neat and tidy. The spot I chose was a bit of a last resort. You can of course just use double sided 1mm thick tape but the domed top on the triple clamp even makes that a little difficult without turning it flat. On my Interceptor I just used the tape mount system although the top nut is pretty flat on that. Ciao

All of my irons in the fire went cold. Back on the trail for an Axle/Spindle for a 97 1100i sport or Centauro This part is no longer in production. Lemme know what ya got and how much thanks andy

I believe both of those options attach to the bolts that tighten the top triple clamp around the fork tubes.

Pressureangle,, those are Omron's on Ebay,, Form C with made in USA ? And they weigh ? Mine, sure US made, weigh 20gram. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

So I received my Omron relays today from eBay. All I can say is that the quality of the housing is notable better than some others, and that they literally weigh twice as much as the non-Omron relays I have in the bike. Yikes...they may actually be what we hope them to be.

It makes sense actually. Its not really how I ride, but I have to keep in mind its an air cooled engine low speed and low revs, high ambient air temperature and high humidity at sea level. I think I am going to run some tests, including with lower temperatures, to confirm the behavior.

The jump is quite obvious. I have the tendency to always "ride on the torque", and keep the engine revs as low as possible. It is very possible that I am in the "grey" zone where there aren't as many points. Tomorrow I will try to keep the rpm above 3k, just to see if there is any improvement. I think the explanation is just that. There is too much of a gap in the mapping to keep the engine happy. And the interpolation is possibly linear, which does not really work. When you combine Air Temperature, Air Humidity, barometric pressure we get into the dew point zone? this would be consistent with not having the engine missing at lower temperatures and humidity. It almost feels like the ECU algorithm was never designed to cope with those atmospheric conditions.

This explains the LeMans-Airhead dichotomy.

Fixed it for you.

Behold! In sooth it is the turdy-most! An originally flatulent and boring motorcycle with the handling characteristics of an occasional table with castors, one of which is missing, the appearance of a 1940's Belgian croissant delivery cart that makes a noise like a parson farting in the bath. To compound it's horridness large parts of it are missing and acquiring them will mean you will have to spend time interacting with other owners of noxious, antiquated BMW's. Now if old Guzzi owners are notorious for their corn cob pipes and resistance to anything that even hints at modernity BMW owners are infinitely worse! Never mind the corn cob pipes, the BMW crowd all speak in high squeaky voices, have stained cardigans that stop, (Usually because the knitting is unraveling!) above their navels revealing their undergarments that are always covered in unmentionable stains! Their beige trousers have a crotch about at knee level and the bottoms of the legs are always frayed as they are far too long and as a result have been trodden on by their leatherette brothel-creepers. Often the trouser cuffs will have dogshit on them as well because these people are usually accompanied by small, yapping, dogs that crap everywhere. Crowning the whole lot will be a tartan Tam-o-shanter that looks like it's been farted on by a horse. When you talk to these people it's always important to wear at least a mask but preferably an airtight helmet of some sort as they are incapable of normal speech and their shrill utterances are always accompanied by torrents of spittle and half digested food. If you do, mistakenly, go ahead with such a purchase it must be remembered that within 18 months you too will resemble the type of person portrayed above! I'm sorry, but it is inevitable and cannot be avoided. Remember. Just say 'No' to BMW's. It's for your own good.

Ok, probably the last post here unless questions. I went for a short, 11 mile sub-50mph shakedown, all low throttle sub-4000rpms. First, I cannot overstate how much more cleanly this thing drives at low rpm and low throttle. The 'city manners' are incredibly improved. The idle is steady, stable, and never missed a single beat, even though it's 100rpm lower than I had it set previously. The 'driveline snatch' at slow speed/low throttle have *disappeared*. I have to attribute this to idle/low rpm spark timing being precise, which leads to the conclusion that the stock chain tensioner is not tight enough to control the cam/crank relationship at low rpms. Significantly, the whole reason I put these gears in was because I 'thought' I heard the cam chain slapping around, and didn't know whether the bike had a spring tensioner or manual and figured if I'm in there I may as well go all the way. Supporting that suspicion is that during today's ride I had the fairing on and everything final assembled, and the reflected engine noise from the front is *immensely* lower. There was enough noise with the chain to be a constant source of discontent; not only are the gears quiet, they are comparatively silent. I've leaned my idle mixture and yesterday's ride told me the plugs are way rich at the throttle settings I rode today, though I've yet to read the plugs with my changes it felt fine which means still plenty rich. I'll have to re-tune everything, certainly everything in the low RPM columns and the low throttle settings. We'll see. At the end of the day, Joe's gears are what should be in them from the factory...but Guzzi already knew that a long time ago, didn't they? Edit; I'll add here that I've always used the 'book value' valve lash settings; This time I've used the Guzziology values, Euro +.002" I think, .006" for intakes and .008" for exhaust. It's probably a contributor, but I would not expect that to make the huge difference I feel.