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Mine came with Staintunes. Pretty throaty, but not obnoxious. Db killers out. With them, it is just so wrong. Recently rotated them up for a little more spiff.

OK... we're posting Scura pics? I'll play. As for the Stones... wow, just wow that they are touring. I don't know if I am more surprised that Keith Richards or Ozzy Osborne are still with us... but they both gave us some great music. Speaking of music... maybe this would be a good time to put some aftermarket pipes on that Texas Scura?

Well, on a steady state throttle, as in rolling down a freeway, I have seen as much as 40 mpg and am confident my tank will deliver five US gallons (maaaaaybe 5.1). So, sure, 200 miles in those conditions. Yet, I absolutely love-love rowing this gearbox and ripping up-and-down through the revs. I am total hell on tires and brakes and fuel economy. On a chilly day when the weather feels like the Sport is climbing the Stelvio pass, and I'm pretending to be Omobono Tenni, I can see as little as 32.5 mpgUS. But it's worth it . . .

Super nice day for a ride on the Scura in the forest and surrounding areas…with a nice stop for cool drinks at the Classic Rock cafe to visit Cash and Mick! Had to celebrate the good news that the Stones are back on tour again and coming soon…with the last show at COTA in Austin! Still have tickets so it’s a go!

So as long as we're just talking about gas and fuel and have pretty much gone off topic, I'll play. So far as my Greenie, I've never gone more that 160 miles, and it was coughing when I went to the gas station. I've never gotten better than 37mpg from it. And I'll mention my Ducati. I average about 43mpg from it, it has has a much smaller tank. I took a recent trip to Ark on it. I wanted to make some curvy roads. I'd never ridden with the crowd I was riding with. When I showed them my route, they all declined, too many twisty roads for too many miles. So we would meet for lunch in Marshall, they'd take the interstate and I'd take my route. I didn't consider: 1) our motel was 50 miles further out than I'd done before and 2) there are no gas stations in rural Ark. Anyway, I'd had a blast of aggressive riding and was following some great roads when my low fuel light came on. After riding a ways, I saw a sign that said I was 30 some miles from Marshall. I ride through a couple of small towns with no gas. I finally get to a town, I see someone by his house and ask if there's gas station here? He said to follow him. I did, filled up, called my guys who said they were eating at the "Daisy Queen in Marshall". I asked the attendant "How far is it to Marshall?" He said "You're in Marshall". "OK, where is the Daisy Queen?" He pointed at a drive-in about two blocks away, "Over there". wheew.

Having owned a 1984 RS /7 I can confirm a lot about what people are saying. What they aren't saying is bikes from that era although parts are available they can be very expensive. Sometimes BMW will surprise you and they'll be reasonable but not often and net engine parts. Then there is the problem of working on them true simple maintenance is pretty good but if need to dig deep into them your going to need a special tool to do almost anything. I mean it, its like some kind of sick German humor. What would take a few hours might take days because you'll be building a special tool or buying one. The technology is just different not better or worse just different. A Guzzi you could keep workshop manual on the self and never use its intuitive. Not a beemer, if you don't study your manual (and it better be a good one) you WILL SCREW something up. Handling? I guess they earn the name "Rubber Cow" but if you were smooth on it. It was a good handling machine for the time period. Better then my loop frame that's for sure.

yes, it gets brighter

My experience with the low-fuel lights is that they are not that useful - knowing range and watching the odometer is better for me. Although I am spoiled with an accurate fuel gauge on my Stelvio, and I would welcome that feature on my V11. The low fuel sensor is currently not working on my Scura, so I am thinking about fuel at 120 miles, and I don't push it past 150 miles. Sometimes gas stations are far apart in the lonely places I like to ride. And I have seen close to 200 miles from a tank on a long journey, but that would have been on a boring stretch of road.

Thank you both for your answer. I am learning something new every day. A few years ago I ordered 100ea. G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 from Online Components - and I have sold almost all off them to my Guzzi-friends in Norway. (I had to buy for high quantity to have them send for a reasonable shipping cost.) Now I wanted more of the same relays, and searching for Omron G8HE, I found that Online Components could deliver, so I bought another 100ea. - without checking the rest of the specification. Now these new 100ea. "A = 4-pins" are on their way. I am now happy to be able to inform my new "customers about the use of the A=4-pins and the C= 5-pins versions. Rolf

Really docc, I'm sure my bike would easily do better than that. say more like 195-200 miles. Ciao

I went the Quill route. The cans are so much lighter than stock, as is the straight through crossover. The end cans come with a removeable baffle, which at point of sale the dB can be chosen. I went for 95. Was impressed at a track noise check, they said it was 95db. The ground clearance is better too. They are real mellow until approaching 5000rpm on a strong throttle. Then on up it gets blood curdling.

I've been to SSR's on my Ballabio, Norge, Griso, EV, and Stornello. Not sure which this year, but my V7 III is a SSR virgin, so mebbe. I found it humiliating at first to be made to sit outside the covered area by the fire pit for post-ride benchracing and belching, but have gotten over that. Bill

Yes, compared to the other "warning lights", the Low Fuel light is much more likely to sneak up on you and stab you in a kidney because you weren't watching the elapsed mileage. I watch for mine to flicker an intermittent *glow* at about 138-145 US miles. Then it goes out. Maybe glows again at idle or very low throttle (opening the throttle cools the sensor with return fuel and extinguishes the warning light.) Early V11 tanks and later (internal pump/filter) tanks differ, but the actual expected range may not be much different . . . 165 to 175 and I'm on the roadside doing the Left-Tip-Slosh-Get-Me-There drill . . .

Anyone enthusiastic about the V11 will likely be comfortable at a South'n SpineRaid. We hardly ever scrounge parts off Norges. But, mebbe . . . Rooms left at The Lodge? Dunno at this point . . . There is a motorcycle campground very nearby, and often SpineRaiders at The Lodge might have a wee space to share a bunk. Comes down to: Get There. Bring Tools.

The intensity varies on mine, not that it means much really. The last thing I'm about to rely on with an Italian motorcycle that's 20 years old is the fuel warning light and the Neutral light. The trip meter is my guide. Then again I've twice rolled into petrol stations coughing on fumes. Which either supports my theory to the perfection of my range calculating or not, depending on your perspective. One thing I never do is let an Italian motorcycle warm up on the side stand with the neutral light illuminated. That's just too tempting for the Italian God of electrics. Ciao

Fourth stop, Stop #46: world largest Dime in a box, Dime Box, Texas. In the suffocating heat, a quick back and forth to a little village named Dime Box, where you can find the world's largest Dime... or so it says. The town feels really lonely... thank god, they had Moto Guzzi feed! It was 1:12 when I reached it. The last part of the road from Burton was a lot of fun.

Straight off a charger or immediately post shutdown an Odyssey will read well above 13 volts for a while until the surface charge dissipates but from memory 12.85 is fully charged after that. As a matter of fact 12.5 volts is only around 40% charged for an Odyssey. The figures are on their website. Ciao

I know I will come across as pedantic here, but please bear with me. Friction dampers are similar to the ancient friction shocks we see on early 20th century cars and mid-century bikes. 'Steering brakes', if you will. But they have no brain, no valving. Actually, to some extent I imagine that they work the opposite of what is intended. Max friction in such dampers occurs at zero steering speed - forks straight ahead. It takes some effort to overcome that static friction, which to some degree is good. However, once the initial resistance is broken, it cannot resist movement to the degree that it did, as the force of a tank slapper can break that friction and keep the damper moving until the fork stops are hit. Then, it simply repeats in the other direction. What they resist best is the initial rapid deviation of steering angle that is associated with wobbles. But what after the forks are swinging? Sliding or rotating objects are much easier to slide or rotate once the initial static friction is broken. Sliding a sofa to a new spot in the living room is a practical example. Tough to start it sliding, but much easier to keep it sliding. This is the beauty of hydraulic dampers. Their brain is crude, but they are be set to provide progressive damping of steering oscillations, which is a very good thing when at high speed. They provide low oscillation damping at low steering velocity (not to be confused with vehicle velocity) and high resistance to high velocity steering inputs from either rider or tire - it goes both ways. I have a 1966 Yamaha that has a friction steering damper. It mostly just makes the bike ungainly at low speeds, when rapid steering input helps maintain balance. Road racing bikes make good use of dampers but trials bikes, on the other hand, rely on quick and undamped steering movements so as to retain balance and negotiate seemingly impossible terrain. Something like that.

Kinda spooky stopping in at the Lodge at Tellico to the empty garage. Only The Ghost of SpineRaids Past . . .

I attached mine to the bolts just below the gauges. I think I had to bend the little brackets some

My Formotion instruments have arrived; sadly, they don't glow in the dark. Now is the time when I need to figure out how I will affix them.

Discalimer I don't own a V11 so can only go by the wiring diagram When you hit the starter does it turn? That would rule out the side stand switch, the kill switch and the clutch switch. It appears from the wiring diagram that the clutch needs to be pulled in before the starter will operate, which is a little odd If everything fine there ensure voltage on fuses 1 & 2, both sides, these feed the ECU and Injection Relays. Without either of them working the bike is going nowhere. It might also be worthwhile checking fuse 8 as it operates the electric petcock Pull all the relays inspect then reinsert, just to make sure none are damaged or have become dislodged in the tip over. Then swap over the Injection and ECU relay with another 2 on the bike, or better still spares if you have them. I think the V11 is an In Tank pump, if all of that proves fruitless, I'd pull the pump and filter assembly from the tank, as something may have got dislodged in the fall and check it. With the pump assembly still removed but electrically connected I'd turn on the ignition, but just for a second to so to ascertain the pump turns. Don't run the pump for more than a second or so out the tank as it could damage it. Real V11 owners will be along soon with real understanding of the model, my own knowledge is somewhat limited (I own models somewhat akin but not identical), and confirm or deny my steps

As I see it, a weave can be time consuming to address, unless caused by something obvious (tire pressure, tread style, or construction or even rider input). They involve much smaller steering movements, and those may fall within the velocity range of quick cornering inputs. Any damper that will stop that risks substantially altering the twisty road maneuverability and will make the bike nearly uncontrollable in a slow U-turn. Technically, a damper could be constructed (Ohlins probably has) which denotes speed, gear, RPM, trottle setting and whether the steering input is rider or wheel initiated and then decides which type of damping to apply, if any. On a different note, deceleration wobbles are very often front tire related, i.e. low pressure, cupped tread, tread pattern or compound not a good fit with the bike's geometry etc. On the Kawi EX500 forum, we see lots of complaints about decel wobbles, and that bike has very relaxed steering (27 degree rake), so front tire is one place to look, as well as steering head bearings. In Seattle they have the infamous First Avenue Bridge. It is a drawbridge with an open metal (look down and see the river) grating surface. Was not designed by or for motorcyclists. Talk about weave! Early on, I learned to relax my grip and just let the bike weave its way across. All attempts to the contrary only worsened the weave.

Looking for a V11 Sport in Verde Lagnano Green! Low mileage. Text please 714-325-4545 Stephen

My bike has a new electrosport and I think from memory it puts out around the same voltage amybe a touch more on my multimetre . I've tried to think of a way to calibrate a multimetre as well but haven't figured a reliable voltage source to use a reference. I guess the best way to decide if the battery is charging adequately is to go for a suburban ride for say 30 min with the lights on. Park the bike for an hour and check the battery voltage. 12.85 volts or better means the charging system is fine. Be aware though that the V11 does have parasitic drain of around .070 volts so the battery will drain over a period. Ciao

Coming from Houston to ride the area in the first two weeks of Sept, If I were to show up on my Norge and not the Scura, would I be allowed to park the bike in the same building as the V11’s? Are there any rooms left for the Spine raid?

So I went to Dime Box Texas, and back; about 200 miles. This morning I did 35 psig front and 40 psig rear, and I completely loosened the dampener. I did not touch the fork. While the 290 was kind of boring, I kept a high pace. The reward was FM1697, even if the first section from Burton had some loose gravel. There were tighter turns, and the Guzzi handled like a charm. I only did 39 mpg, as my low gas warning light came on at 170 miles completed. Lots of fun, even if the heat was sizzling in full gear. I have another question, but I will create another thread since it is off topic on this one.

Seven weeks to the Seventeenth South'n SpineRaid. Might as well flirt with Waddington . . .

Truly. An important distinction between "wobble" ("tank slapper") and "weave" (that some early V11 were prone to at high speed with lateral air blast like passing a semi/tractor-trailer rig). Increasing the steering damper damping worsened the high speed weave (without benefiting the absent corner exit "wobble".)

The Moto Guzzi Titanium pipes on mine give a rich, deep tone that is a bit louder than stock, but not obnoxious. They were OEM on a few special models, but are no longer available. Mistrals sound about the same as that. But there are probably lots of opinions on pipes. You can get carbon mistrals that will look similar to stock if you want to keep the look. And if you feel like spending even more, you can get a lighter Mistral crossover.

Great choice in Guzzis. 👍

po18, I have a friction dampener on the EV, so I don't think theory holds for that. Since the V11 is a hydraulic, in theory, I can agree, in practice, no help with a "weave", perhaps for a true tank slapper?

In my collection I own the V11, just bought a 74 Eldorado, and have owned the R90/6 for 20 years. Love them all, don't see it being fair to compare the V11 with the /6 totally different time of production. To compare the Eldorado to the /6 is a more direct comparison. The Eldo is a cooler bike,but which one has an oil filter,which one has an alternator vs a generator .Like I said love them both,but in some ways the /6 is probably a more advanced, reliable machine, and the parts new and used are easier to come by. Hopefully some one will bring this one back from the dead and turn it into a bobber that seem to be so popular these days. But as it sits,it's a $200 parts bike, just my 2 cents.

Yeah, temperature makes a difference on the exact voltage reading. But AGM batteries like the Odyssey will measure higher than normal lead / acid batteries, and at or just under 13 volts is fully charged. Only charging at 13.8 volts is low, but I assume that was at idle. As rpms come up charging should increase to 14 volts or more.

No problem, I haven't checked the latest info but looking at an old Odyssey catalogue it states a fully charged battery will have a Open circuit voltage of 12.85 or higher at 25C so I don't think you've anything to be concerned about

Pretty sure 13V is fine normally the charging volts are in the region of 13.5 or higher, this is off the top of my head, but I would not be concerned about that in the least. Have you looked at the Odyssey charging thread yet...................it goes into more detail than you'd ever EVER want to know about all things Odyssey

"briefly up to 6000 rpm" why just briefly? These motors love to rev.

Unlike others here, I like airheads. Easy to fix, reliable, good parts supply and, god help me, I like the looks of them. I have no illusions- they handle terribly and do attract the human equivalent of undescended testicles. And those humans do tend to overvalue the bikes when they are in a shit state. $1500 is too much.

It gets pretty warm inland from where I live on California central coast, and I've seen the guage register 100 F on several occasions. The calibration is done on my unit by rotating the thermal expansion coil so the needle reads the current ambient temp. There is a plastic backing inside the stainless back ring, which would seem to allow some degree of thermal expansion, although I think the silicon oil is fairly expansion/contraction stable under normal climate heat range.

My Formotion gauges are 10+ years old on my 03 Rosso...... have held up well even with just stick on tape and velcro mounts on my fairing inner. I have to change clock batteries about every 12 - 18 months and I just recently had to refill my thermometer with silicon oil, which was easy to do, and recalibrate the temperature. Quality stuff! Andy

Ciao, Based on the look of your V11 Sport, I purchased the signature clock and thermometer from Formotion. I thought about symmetry; besides, Texas is no longer what I thought it was. When I came here, I was expecting "hot and humid" all the time. This year, we have had a different Texas than the one you came to expect. And the Guzzi is definitively temperature sensitive. Yesterday, we had cooler temperatures, and I could run around the 3k mark without having any protest from the fuel injection. So I decided that I definitively needed time and temperature. I chose the black bezels, because my ITI instruments are black faced. And I opted for the bolt on option. One reason is that the temperature gauge can't be had with the adhesive mount, because it is vacuumed silicone oiled filled. Installing them so they don't look like warts will be the challenge. I have a few ideas. This is when I wish I had a lathe and a few other machines option. When I worked I my battle tank factory, I had access to all the machines and tools and supplies one could dream of. Anyway, I am looking forward to having time and temperature on my Le Mans. I forgot to mention, I like that Formotion proposes analog gauges. They fit the V11 Guzzi so much more in my opinion.

Under no circumstances cap that port off. The fuel map is designed to meter fuel at a pressure dictated by the regulator which controls that pressure via a bladder with spring pressure on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other. Plugging the vent will seal the bladder from atmospheric pressure and affect the delivery pressure. It was originally used on other applications to regulate fuel pressure to inlet pressure but everyone abandoned the idea early in the piece. The very first injected ducati 851's used it but then discarded the connection. Ciao

He needs to remove the air filter and look INSIDE the airbox at the airbox floor, not just at the filter. Ciao

I am going to Murray for my first meeting to schedule everything . I want them both fixed a the same time . Be in prayer for me this goes PERFECTLY ! I can hardly walk as it is .

A couple other aspects of the evolution of the South'n SpineRaid come to mind . . . This idea* started in 2004 when my warranty was up, my dealer was out, and I had only ever seen one other V11 Sport (and that dude had sold his). I figured it would be good to gather these up and compare notes. That has turned out to be an awesome benefit of the South'n Spine Raid! For a while, a "Tech(nical)Session" was pre-planned. We measured reardrive temperatures relative to gear lube selection, measured the offsets of swingarms, performed "Decent Tune-ups", and so on. After a time, it became apparent that someone's V11 already has a TechSession cooked up for us and will reveal itself. That's when the motto became "Get There. Bring Tools." Originally, I thought the location should be easily accessible from all directions. For a couple years, we met at a nice motel by the interstate with a restaurant across the parking lot. After that closed, we wandered around for a few years before settling on the cabins that are The Lodge at Tellico. The proximity to great riding, enclosed garage, and comfortable common area remain a good mix. "Dry" counties have been avoided as the post-ride gathering times are essential to the mission. Another feature that changed over time is the format for Saturday. After a series of incidents (nothing serious), I stopped planning and "leading" a group ride. Raiders are encouraged to study the area and gather in squad-size groups (from solo to four or five). This served to enhance safety, relax the atmosphere, and really charges the story telling under the pavilion on Saturday night since folks went off on so many different adventures and experiences. Win-win! It would be really great to see other Spine Raids. After all, it's just an idea, but without any intellectual property®©™ strings attached . . .