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Not just any dress. PARTY dress!

I am offering my Rosso Mandello for sale on this forum to fellow members This bike was in storage for a while so I completely went through it and replaced anything that was required, it has new fuel system, all fresh fluids, new Pirelli Angel tires, new battery, this bike runs like new and sounds amazing with Mistral pipes and crossover system. I have boxes of spares and manuals, plus a framed limited edition #266 Rosso Mandello certificate. I am asking $7,800, I am located near Franklin TN, pm me for further information or high definition photos

This is crude, dirt-biker behavior, but it works. Just wear a thin, moisture wicking t-shirt and a mesh jacket. Get a big CamelBack and fill it with ice and water. Leave your jacket open a bit at the front. Take huge gulps of water and spit them down the inside of your t-shirt (helps to have a modular helmet for this step). If it's super hot, you can periodically take off you helmet and soak your hair with the ice water. Then you will find out how well your helmet vents work. I also wear shorts under mesh pants. I tried a cooling vest several years ago, and I was not impressed. Maybe technology has improved?

I've got a cooling vest, the kind you douse with water. I've worn it under a mesh jacket and over a t-shirt. Can't give it a positive and perhaps not a negative. It seems a bit clammy and didn't breath, and seemed to match my skin temperature after a little while. I think it might be better to wear a mesh jacket and douse the t-shirt and leave cooling vest home. I suppose I never gave the vest a real chance other than riding locally but with humidity, it didn't seem to help. I'd almost forgotten I bought it until I saw it in the bottom of my rider's closet.

Funny I had her out today, running well, she developed a misfire at one point but it cleared Oil pressure in clear air 58-62psi although I was seeing 70 on ocassions. Only problem with the engine is traffic and I hit the most horrific jams on the way home. Oil pressure light then flickers at idle around 8psi pressure. It's due to the temp skyrocketing, was 130C when I checked it once back at the house. Going to try installing a larger oil cooler in the Winter, but when on the open road it's a fantastic bike all round and that engine just loves to rev.

The ECU I believe. It has an unswitched hot wire to it through fuse 1. Ciao

An unexpected gift of kindness from @Mikko !

another Marabese moment . . .

On a recent visit to Tellico Plains with the wife, I noticed the restaurant on the river has reopened. Perhaps this is to be investigated! https://ironworkstellico.com/

That looks like a great lunch spot Docc! Looks like I got lucky...and secured the last room at the lodge, had a nice chat with Walt yesterday, so I'm booked the 10th/11th at Tellico lodge, with a departure on the 12th to meander back to Houston by the 14th. I notice that there is a nice bakery in town called Tellico Grains, looks like a must visit place as well for a breakfast or lunch spot. I'm guessing prior Spine raiders/riders have been there and can suggest the tastiest options! As tempted as I am to ride the Scura, it's a long haul from Houston, so 95% chances are that I'll be on the Norge. Sounds like I need to pack some Loctite to avoid pilfering of valuable parts...although I suspect there's not a whole lot of interchangeability as I look at the fleet in the garage other than tires, but for now I'll keep the Griso in between the Norge and the Scura to prevent any feelings of jealousy from cropping up before the trek out east. Hoping for nice weather, riding conditions in that part of the country look wonderful with plenty of interesting sights to see along the way.

With the current temperatures felt, I found out that my multitasking jacket does not cut it. I purchased it earlier this year, but even with the liner removed, it gets uncomfortable. Not that I am not used to extreme temperatures, on both ends. Being an older guy, I would rather avoid a heat stroke if I can. Given that on a motorcycle, you need to remain focused on the road. I would like to purchase a jacket which is not a compromise summer/winter. I would like something which is exclusively conceived for hot weather, and still carries the usual protections. If anybody has any suggestion, I am listening. All the manufacturers have fancy names for Air flow, but I would rather follow advice from someone who wears one on a daily basis, not just a one time review. My second point is about those so-called "cooling jackets". You soak them in water, prior to your ride, and they are supposed to help for the next five to 10 hours. Anybody tried? are they effective?

A bottle of cold water poured over your neck, front and back every 1/2 hour...wearing moisture wicking materials. A bandana around the neck also soaked in ice water every 1/2 hour A skull cap also soaked in ice water that goes on inside your helmet, provides a huge cooling effect on the head, eliminating heat stroke possibilities A camelback filled with ice as mentioned above, refilling very often and drinking. Vented jackets above 90F work worse than unvented jackets....you're just frying from the blow dryer effect. Drink, drink and drink more...as they say...if you're not peeing, you're dehydrated! Riding here in Texas is perfectly safe if you follow the above...but the heat stroke is real and can catch you...seen plenty of folks passed out under the shade of a tree for lack of hydration.

Where is it now? Does it have a US title? Check with DMV Austin, as there are certainly specified requirements. Vintage or special interest is an exception in many titling/licensing cases. EDIT: It is entirely possible that one may have to register the vehicle in an "easy" state, such as Oregon or Alabama, before titling it in Texas. That may require a "trusted" friend who would temporarily place it in his name before transferring to you. However, at each exchange, the taxman loometh.

I can't help you with the wiring, as I just gave up and paid a shop to fix my voltage problem. But I am trying to give away a motorcycle tire changer... so you don't have to pay a shop for that next time.

@innesa I am sure you already know, but the weak point on the levers is there to protect your fingers in case they would be wedged between the grip and the lever. This is a safety feature.

Yes Steve. The Cat D might put some off, but it means nothing given the prices of new Guzzi parts. Even a tumble off the side stand could see a bike 'written off'. It's not the best cosmetically, but it's original and almost 20 years old. Under 15 000 miles too. I got stung with having to replace the original clutch and flywheel within a fortnight of getting it, and a subsequent wait for parts. I've got 3 bikes at the moment and generally insure 2 each year, and storage space is bit of an issue. I'll probably keep it. I enjoy riding it, but it's not a bike that's best suited to pottering around N. Yorkshire lanes. I remember the Cafe Sport you had. That looked spotless. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Finally got the Flagship out today and promptly burned up my rear caliper. I’m assuming a piston was sticking. Been riding the ‘10 all this time and I wondered why it seemed sluggish and down on power. Aborted the ride and when I got home the bad news was easy to spot. Hmmm….. I ordered (2) Rear Brembo Caliper Rebuild Kits one for now, and one for posterity as these might be hard to source in the future. Then a bunch of other stuff from https://www.egpartspros.com/ Gold Rear brake disc, Stop switch, Gasket, Rear Pads, Disk Screws, Brake caliper Cover, Circlip, O-ring, Ball bearings That should be a pretty decent rear brake overhaul….

Been reviewing this thread and realized I hadn't acknowledged you for your time and expertise! Thank you @Kiwi_Roy, kind Sir! Much overdue.

nice poster docc

@Tapoco Lodge the wedge of lettuce.

How cool, @PJPR01 ! Yes, Tellico Grains is delightful. As is the Tellicafe. Also, Trout Mountain Coffeehouse (more than just good coffee).

Once upon a time, SpineRaiders gathered for a grand loop on Saturday. More recently, it has worked out much mo' better to choose-up into small squads, solo, duos and whatever-you-like for the Saturday riding. Not only is this safer and kinder, the Saturday evening debriefing (libations on the pavilion and in the garage) are much livelier, varied, and more interesting. It is quite common to cross the Cherohala Skyway eastward toward the "Tail of the Dragon" / Deal's Gap. Some feel compelled to traverse those 318 curves in 11 miles. So they can say they did. And be legit getting the sticker and the T-shirt. Just be aware how congested that stretch is on the weekends. Factor in strict law enforcement, sharing the way with unskilled riders/drivers, and long delays for the quite common and often ugly collision incidents. Not to deter you from snatching up this iconic stretch of motorcycle road. My last ride over and back was enjoyable, uneventful, and fun. I got-me a couple stickers. Jus' sayin' . . . be aware. Otherwise, an interesting lunch spot opened a few years back quite near that locus that has great food and covered motorcycle parking. It has become quite enjoyable to "run into" other SpineRaiders lunching at the Tapoco Lodge.

Just Guzzis in a dress

Your in the right place then..I think everyone has been nominated at one time or another !

So, there's this thang called Occam's Razor which is sometimes inaccurately paraphrased as "the simplest explanation is usually the best one." Without further ado, is that in this particular chapter of Dead V11, fotoguzzi wins the Occam's Razor award for nominating the kill switch as the culprit. I would also like to nominate myself for eejit of the year award for not checking the kill switch until suggested. I would like to apologise for wasting everybody's time, particularly that of Weegie (Bloody Hell, but those Magni's must be special machines!) for wearing his puir wee fingers to the nubs for typing his essay-like response. And of course, docc, for his input into either my 2nd or 3rd post that he has responded to. My thanks to all, along with that apology. If you need me, I'll be over in the corner, self-flagellating for my stupidity for not checking the kill switch... Ffs!!!

Pretty extensive thread on RAM Mounts -> here. @KINDOY2 achieved a fine result mounting to the steering stem:

Installed Roper plate. Actually spent most of the day scraping baked on insta-gasket from sump plate(s)/oil pump/everywhere. Also, why does nobody tell you not to remove the oil strainer? Or at least index it so it isn't impossible to line up the sump cover on reassembly. I was consistently about 2mm off every damn time I adjusted it, and I did not want to chew up my new (only)gasket.

I've been to SSR's on my Ballabio, Norge, Griso, EV, and Stornello. Not sure which this year, but my V7 III is a SSR virgin, so mebbe. I found it humiliating at first to be made to sit outside the covered area by the fire pit for post-ride benchracing and belching, but have gotten over that. Bill

I apologize if I've falsely raised hopes for short frame owners, this worked for me on that hidden grease nipple on my LONG frame bike. Imho, if there is any coupling that MAY work on short frames, this would be it. Take a look at the photo on this link below; that short 4" pipe to the left on the 180 degree swivel coupling with the spring over it, has male threads on both ends;remove it; you now have a 180 degree swivel with female threads. Remove the coupling from whatever type of grease gun you have, exposing the male threads and screw the 180 swivel on, in it's place. On my LONG frame, I could see the top of that hidden grease fitting, but it was welded in so close to the shoulder of the driveshaft, I needed a coupling approximately 45-60 degrees (WAG), this cheap swivel worked like a charm for me, on my LONG frame; I make no promises it will work on a SHORT frame, but for $10 Canadian funds, I'd take the gamble and try, fwiw ymmv. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-180-degree-swivel-grease-gun-coupler-0282760p.html

PULL the swingarm, take the shaft off, and grease it on your desk. And before and after greasing you feel if the ends rotate without sour spots. That is the only way to be sure that all is right.

They say practice makes perfect.....so I should be getting pretty good at replacing fuses and wiring. Couple weeks ago I go out and my 08 Breva 1200 Sport I purchased to replace my Norge fired right up and I rode it to meet a buddy for breakfast. No issues there or home. The next day I try to start it for a ride and all I hear is the dreaded click from under the seat. Not again!!! Yup another dead starter fuse. Replaced the fuse, bought a Startus Interruptus and installed a heavier gauge wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. Turn the key, just touch the go button and she fires right up. All good in Guzzi Land.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge.gif BTW the starter (25) shown on here is nonsense. You replaced the wire between the relay/5 and the starter, that's good but only half the job. According to Carl's drawing you still have a Start relay powered through the ignition switch. This is easy to check, find the Start relay and see if the main contact 3 is alive with the key Off. Strange as it may seem the more current you can cram into the solenoid spade connector the less power (Watt seconds) it uses because it gets the job done quicker. While the solenoid is engaging the starter gear the battery has nothing else to do, it doesn't start spinning the motor until the gear is engaged. On these bikes its suggested you snip the yellow wire below the relay and splice it onto a new yellow 16 gauge run direct to the battery through a new fuse or perhaps splice it into the RH main fuse Switched Fuse B still feeds 9, 12 & 19 through the original yellow The number plate light on these bikes was trying to tell us something, I'm sure it was going dim whenever the starter was making the dreaded SI click

Case in point: The world's foremost authority on the Moto Guzzi V11 series is not the factory, its representatives, published materials, importers, or any dealer-anywhere. It are us!

Unfortunately, I've gotta agree, Pete.

WRT the factory's definitions the early Stelvios were known as '4V' and then the NTX 'Big Tank' models got called '8V'. As an example of just how spectacularly stupid and dishonest the management are in an interview given by one of the Piaggio wonks about the time the V85 was being rumoured he stated that the Stelvio was sold in two forms a 4V engine and later models had an 8V motor. Such woeful and pathetic ignorance of the recent model history of the marque is inexcusable. Any person with more than a passing knowledge of Guzzi's recent history knows that ALL Stelvios use the 4VPC, total 8, valve motor! It just shows exactly how contemptuous they are of their customers! Raging assholes the lot of them!

Will be picking this up from Woody in Cincinnati next week. Gonna love it

Wowsie, you got a very rare MOTO GUZZI SPORT ELEPHANT! Watch out that it doesn't sit on those other midget bikes.

Part # 92249224 for the bearings.

Hi 100% agree with this. It takes about 30 minutes with practice to get the wheel and the swinging arm off. You can then check the swingarm bearings; if these are notchy they can be saved by lifting the dirtshields off the beari ngs and repacking with grease. Much better than putting new bearings in. Wheel bearings are next; Guzzi are notorious for fitting u/s bearing spacers, and bearing failures are not uncommon. If yours have gone, before banging the new bearings in, check the spcer length, and if u/s, buy some bearing spacer shims from a good bearing stockist and pack to the correct size between the bearings. Plenty of threads on this forum about spacer measurement. Then check the state of the rear caliper pads, these are only 2mm thick when new and wear rapidly in my experience. e e If the spline grease nipple is broken off on your bike, simply pull the shaft halves apart and LIGHTLY grease the splines by hand. You will have to manipulate the halves back together again to release any trapped air which will act as a gas spring for a while..... Greasing the UJ nipples is best done with a needle. With the swwingarm off the gearbox end UJ nipple can be done in situ, while with the bevel box off the bike, access is even easier. Grease until old grease comes out of the joints. Finally put some grease on the bevel box output shaft splines before putting the wheel back on, and make sure you look at the little unshielded roller bearing that acts as a pivot for the bevel box. This should be cleaned and greased every toime you take the wheel off, as it siezes very quickly. Then grease the wheel spindle to make sure it doesn't seize in the wheel in future and you're done. Sounds a lot but in practice very quick to do, and saves days of heartbreak...... Cheers Jon