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I agree with checking the filter first, which is a known problem. Any more starts could be with un-lubricated surfaces. IMO - not worth starting again with a rocker-cover removed. In fact, you should not have to remove the rocker covers at all to solve this problem. I have an oil pressure gauge if you want to borrow it. To use it, you have to remove the sensor, then screw the gauge's hose into the block.

My advice is based on eliminating the known troublemaker before operating the engine any further since its had some running with the light on and has history. Yes I remember your oil pressure issue Lowrider, painful from memory. Ciao

BTW, I'll take 115 in Phoenix over 95 in Houston any day.

You've got all the "gen" from minds better than mine. I'd drop the pan and check the filter and gaskets as suggested then put a gauge on it that @Scud has kindly offered a loan of. One of the reasons I love Guzzi ownership, I can't think of more generous crowd willing to help strangers out with insight or special tools etc: etc: When checking the pressure after the pan's been re-enstated, I'd remove the plugs (to reduce bearing load and help it spin faster) and pull the injection relay to stop the fuel pump and the coils being energised. Turn it over on the starter, in several 4 or 5 second bursts. It'll take a 10-15 seconds or so for the supply to prime then you should see the pressure shoot up on the gauge to somewhere between 50-60psi.

From memory the manual for the sport is wrong when identifying the pins. There are 3 wires one constant 5v reference or "power wire" if you like from the ecu. 1 earth wire and 1 output wire back to the ecu to indicate throttle position. You need to measure the voltage between the earth and signal wire output from the tps to the ecu. The PF09 ( Daytona) and PF03 ( Sport) pin positions are different but he manual shows them as the same ( it covers both models). I "think" you need to measure between the middle and lower pins. The centre pin is the earth which is easy to check even with the power off. Once you confirm that then the 5 volt supply wire is easy also because it will be the same voltage no matter what you do with the throttle. The remaining wire must therefore be the signal wire. You know you have it right when you open the throttle and the voltage increases from 0/157mv to around 4.8 volts. If it starts at 5V on goes backwards when you open the throttle then you have the wires crossed. Ciao

You need the voltage supply from the main harness. At the excellent advice of others here, I purchased a Caspers Electronics "TPS breakout harness." Plug one end into the bikes harness, the other into the TPS and the two free leads into your multimeter. http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&search=guzzi+&product_id=853&search=guzzi+ Here's how I decided to terminate the harness. Now it's plug plug plug-n-play.

From a guy who moved from Houston to Phoenix . . . Evaporative cooling vest work OK, IF the humidity is low. Pretty much rules them out in Houston. In Zonie land, a wet vest lasts an hour or less. So, you ride with 2. One on your body and the other in a ziploc bag filled with water in the tank bag. (You are carrying water with you as you ride in Arizona). Pull over about every hour and swap. This is the only good solution on long trips. Another lesser known option is phase change gel cooling vests. I get mine here - https://glaciertek.com/ These don't last as long in Zonie heat, maybe 1/2 an hour. BUT, there's no water involved. You put the gel packs in the fridge or freezer before the ride. The gel magically maintains a constant temperature as you wear it. I used these when commuting to work. Plenty of cooling for a shorter trip and you don't have a wet shirt when you arrive at work. Evap vests will water stain your clothes. I have both kinds and use them based on the ride. Or just run in the heat, staying hydrated. I have been in Zonie land for 30 years now.

s258 checking in from australia

Pete and Lowrider have of course made good suggestions but we are talking about oil pressure here and about the only thing that really causes this that's a possible disaster is the filter coming loose OR 2 gaskets fitted to the filter. Seeing it's a long running issue I'd drop the oil and open the access hole and remove the filter and check if it's got 2 gaskets fitted. Even if it's loose when you check it still remove it as it's likely it's loose because of a double gasket scenario. Once you have eliminated the worrying aspect then just change out the switch which in all honesty is the most likely culprit. BTW the oil cooler is thermostatically controlled so if you were on a short ride in cold weather it could still possibly be coolish because the thermostat hasn't allowed full oil flow. Ciao

The oil pressure switch lives on the front left of the block adjacent to the fitting that the two hoses that go to the heads comes off. The switch is a proprietary part the important thing is that it have the correct thread which from memory is a 12 x 1.5 mm, anyway, it's a coarse thread. If replacing the switch doesn't fix the problem then the chances are the filter has come loose. Drop the sump and have a look. If you don't have the correct cap wrench and try to tighten the filter 'By Hand' through the manhole it won't be tight enough and will come loose.

I"m trying to set the TPS on my 1997 1100 sport. I disconnected the plug to the TPS then inserted fine wires in the female plug, one in the top and one in the middle with the wires sticking out of the plug'. when plugged back in. I then put the + lead of the meter to the top wire and the negative to the middle, but my meter just reads zero. My meter is set on the lowest MV setting. What is the correct way to take this reading?

I concur with all those who have experience with high temps and high humidity. I have workrf in the Libyan desert, in Saudi Arabia, in Chad where temperatures are higher than what we have here, but when its dry, it is bearable if we could compare working with riding a motorcycle wearing protective gear. Well working you wear PPE, but excepted for flame retardant textile, you are more or less fine. I don't think there is any solution just yet. All that we have revolves around mitigating the heat, but we don't have much in terms of riding in "good" conditions. Hydrating does not last long. And if you start making stops to refresh, you end up stopping at every gas station to cool down. Not withstanding that when you get to your destination, the first requirement is to change clothes and take a shower...

I remember living in Phoenix for 2 years back in 1993-1995, a memorable summer of 118 for 3 days straight seems positively cool by comparison to the heat waves you guys have had this year with days above 120F. That's just not humane anymore when it gets down to 100F at night as the cool spot! When golf tee times at 5 am are the most popular of the day...something is wrong! One thing I did enjoy in Phoenix/Scottsdale are those misting systems around everywhere outside you can walk near shops/restaurants. Riding thru Texas, New Mexico and Colorado in mid Summer on a trip to the Guzzi Nat'l Rally in John Day, we were going thru 3 full 3 liter camelbacks per day just to stay hydrated (partial Gatorade, no sugar mixed with ice and water to keep some electrolytes, or at times with Noom tablets)...just brutal riding conditions...but using the full non mesh jacket instead of the mesh helped a lot along with the other tricks posted above. Good post on Heat Stroke vs. Heat Exhaustion above...

Didja know that Aerostitch's "Rideable Days" graphic https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-rideable-days-poster.html says that there's more rideable days in Anchorage AK than Phoenix AZ. Pussies can't take a little heat !!

+1 to my Arizona breathren.. And you got a Scura which shows you are a man of good taste.

I never thought this would work but it does.. I wear a canvas oilskin with a mesh liner. And Im in Tucson. Air goes through it but still good for the hot rainy monsoons.. Mine's a Merlin.

Steve, I haven’t sold a V11 recently, but I have bought two over the past 18 to 20 months, which may help. I’m currently maxed out with V11’s as I have 5 of them at the moment. I bought a Rosso Corsa in March 2020, and I do plan to sell my 04 Le Mans, but haven’t got around to selling it yet, so I am interested in learning more about the current pricing situation if it’s any help for you I paid £6K for a mint 2003 Rosso Corsa with 14k miles on 18 months ago. The previous owner was downsizing his collection, and had paid considerably more than that from a well known Guzzi main dealer around 18 months previously. The Ohlins bikes are rare and I was happy with my purchase at that price. I bought it from an ebay ad. A few months previously I purchased an early red framed 1999 Sport, near mint with only 4000 miles and much money spent by the previous owner, I paid £4.2K almost 2 years ago Guzzi’s are always niche bikes, and I think the size of the potential market is relatively small, but may grow as these bikes approach classic status. I do try and keep an eye on prices, and I know a local main Kawasaki dealer sold an immaculate 1999 Greenie with fairly low miles in April for around £5.5K What I would ask though, is why change a V11 for a V85? A few weeks ago I left my silver 1999 Sport at the local Guzzi dealers for a throttle body balance (I’m not great at doing that). Later that day I walked back to their workshop to pick the bike up, the dealer had just taken delivery of a new black V85 demonstrator, and I was looking this over as their mechanic rolled into their parking lot having road tested my V11 after setting the throttle bodies. He saw me looking at their new V85 and said, you don’t want one of those, your V11 is way more fun to ride, he then spent the next couple of minutes explaining why he thought I’d be disappointed with the V85 knowing I usually ride V11’s and a Griso 8V I will book a test ride on a V85 just to see for myself, but I think you’ll miss the grunt of the V11, and as it’s a Ballabio it does have comfy bars rather than clip ons, which for me as I approach my 7th decade, are hard on my back after too few miles just my thoughts …. I have sent you a PM on ebay about your terrific carbon fiber belly pan

Now, must devise a fine-threaded rotating thumbwheel for the TPS so that you don't go from .100-50.75 in one little jiggle.

Guzzis in their Sunday best, hey Weegie?

Phil is spot on, you'll find some misleading info, not only in the manual, but on my Sporti and HiCam bikes the wiring is different The best way is to check it as suggested or at least confirm wiring colours. I "think" on the Sport it's the outside wires, on the HiCam it's one of the outsdie wires and the middle, adjacent to each other. Loving @po18guy s setup very nice. Being the cheap and lazy sod I am I use a paper clip up the back of the plug to read the voltage

BYOBacon?

My standard black suit is two-piece. The gray one I had last year is one-piece. I much prefer the two piece. I use the two-piece as one piece most of the time, it's a pain to zip and unzip, nearly impossible while wearing it.

Phil, you're much smarter than me. I'd still pull a cover first and make sure that there was oil pressure or not. And since I've had a weak oil pump, that's not out of the question. 1) pull a cover and if you have pressure it's the sender, if no pressure, 2) drop the pan and if that's OK, 3) pump.

Take off the valve cover, it's easier than the sensor IMO. But pull either one. If the oil ain't spraying out, it's oil pressure, otherwise it's the sensor. Check for a loose or leaking filter gasket. If it's not the oil filter, it's very likely the oil pump. Whatever you do, don't run the engine until you know. With so few miles I'd bet on the filter vs pump or sender. BTDT for filter and pump.

Rosso Mandello black cases are not prone to the failure of the 2002 V11, AFAIK.

Seeing as how we have largely mastered these SpineFrame beasts, there are more important TechSessions to consider . . .

This is crude, dirt-biker behavior, but it works. Just wear a thin, moisture wicking t-shirt and a mesh jacket. Get a big CamelBack and fill it with ice and water. Leave your jacket open a bit at the front. Take huge gulps of water and spit them down the inside of your t-shirt (helps to have a modular helmet for this step). If it's super hot, you can periodically take off you helmet and soak your hair with the ice water. Then you will find out how well your helmet vents work. I also wear shorts under mesh pants. I tried a cooling vest several years ago, and I was not impressed. Maybe technology has improved?

Funny I had her out today, running well, she developed a misfire at one point but it cleared Oil pressure in clear air 58-62psi although I was seeing 70 on ocassions. Only problem with the engine is traffic and I hit the most horrific jams on the way home. Oil pressure light then flickers at idle around 8psi pressure. It's due to the temp skyrocketing, was 130C when I checked it once back at the house. Going to try installing a larger oil cooler in the Winter, but when on the open road it's a fantastic bike all round and that engine just loves to rev.

@Tapoco Lodge the wedge of lettuce.

On a recent visit to Tellico Plains with the wife, I noticed the restaurant on the river has reopened. Perhaps this is to be investigated! https://ironworkstellico.com/

Not just any dress. PARTY dress!

That looks like a great lunch spot Docc! Looks like I got lucky...and secured the last room at the lodge, had a nice chat with Walt yesterday, so I'm booked the 10th/11th at Tellico lodge, with a departure on the 12th to meander back to Houston by the 14th. I notice that there is a nice bakery in town called Tellico Grains, looks like a must visit place as well for a breakfast or lunch spot. I'm guessing prior Spine raiders/riders have been there and can suggest the tastiest options! As tempted as I am to ride the Scura, it's a long haul from Houston, so 95% chances are that I'll be on the Norge. Sounds like I need to pack some Loctite to avoid pilfering of valuable parts...although I suspect there's not a whole lot of interchangeability as I look at the fleet in the garage other than tires, but for now I'll keep the Griso in between the Norge and the Scura to prevent any feelings of jealousy from cropping up before the trek out east. Hoping for nice weather, riding conditions in that part of the country look wonderful with plenty of interesting sights to see along the way.

Once upon a time, SpineRaiders gathered for a grand loop on Saturday. More recently, it has worked out much mo' better to choose-up into small squads, solo, duos and whatever-you-like for the Saturday riding. Not only is this safer and kinder, the Saturday evening debriefing (libations on the pavilion and in the garage) are much livelier, varied, and more interesting. It is quite common to cross the Cherohala Skyway eastward toward the "Tail of the Dragon" / Deal's Gap. Some feel compelled to traverse those 318 curves in 11 miles. So they can say they did. And be legit getting the sticker and the T-shirt. Just be aware how congested that stretch is on the weekends. Factor in strict law enforcement, sharing the way with unskilled riders/drivers, and long delays for the quite common and often ugly collision incidents. Not to deter you from snatching up this iconic stretch of motorcycle road. My last ride over and back was enjoyable, uneventful, and fun. I got-me a couple stickers. Jus' sayin' . . . be aware. Otherwise, an interesting lunch spot opened a few years back quite near that locus that has great food and covered motorcycle parking. It has become quite enjoyable to "run into" other SpineRaiders lunching at the Tapoco Lodge.

Just Guzzis in a dress

Your in the right place then..I think everyone has been nominated at one time or another !

At least she has the good sense to wear a helmet.

Looks more like a glimpse of the promised land.