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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/2021 in all areas

  1. And can I just rant? What the hell are these manufacturers thinking when the majority of mesh gear is black? I finally got some good vented dirt bike pants that are light grey - reflecting the heat make a big difference compared to the black pair I settled on before (due to availability). I have a Bright yellow mesh jacket, that still has a lot of black on it... and I can feel the difference on the black parts vs the yellow parts. WTF? Why is it so hard to find other than black? And for the record, I know it can be found... but it's uncommon. Seems like if staying cool is the goal, somebody would say, "Why are we making all this black mesh stuff? What about some light colors?" OK end of rant. But part of staying cool is: try to wear lighter colors.
    6 points
  2. I got this several years ago just for "those" days. I won't say it's high quality but for $60. it works well. 5pc CE, plenty of pockets and strappage. Even has a liner. Made in C, has held up. https://www.amazon.com/Xelement-Igniter-Silver-Armored-Tri-Tex/dp/B086RQSL3M
    2 points
  3. In case you would be tempted, The San Jacinto Museeum is a good destination for a V11. There is a lot of historical facts which have to do with Texas. It is always nice to learn about our past, isn't it? I decided that it was 95F with a 108F real feel, and the Guzzi had rested long enough since the Dime Box trip. This was a quick run, but nice nonetheless....
    2 points
  4. Wow that brings back memories. Lived just across north side of San Jacinto river from the monument first 22 years of my life and now have same Lemans as yours but not near as primo condition. As kids we had a mix of scooters and bikes from cushmans to cushman 3 wheel trucksters to hondas, bridgestones, suzukis and so on. We all rode together many times on the Lynchburg ferry from Highlands, TX across the river and to the monument and museum. If the parents knew we would all have been in big trouble.
    1 point
  5. OK I got my meter on the right wires on the 1100 sport TPS, Top + bottom negative. My meter read 2300 MV so I tried to adjust it but it would only drop to 1900 MV. So I left it at 2300. I then checked the air bypass screws, the one on the right was 1/2 turn out but the one on the left would not move. I then hooked up the carb mate to check the throttle body balance. It was spot on at idle and at 3000 RPM. The plugs looked like the bike runs rich but it gets about 40 MPG. The bike runs strong but some times misses at 2800 RPM. It also died at idle once on my last 120 mile ride. It has K&N air pods and PC3. I"m not sure what to do from here. Any thoughts?
    1 point
  6. I had the same thought when I was looking to purchase a helmet. I wanted a Shark, Carbon Fiber, and all they offered was.... black! unless I purchased a Jorge Lorenzo repro. I wear a fire red jacket, and if I could I would have red pants and red boots and a red helmet. Just because my Le Mans is Red. I need to stand out on the road, so people texting and driving can at least think: what's that red thing in the middle of the road....
    1 point
  7. I think the MGNOC Texas rep did every Texas County Court House in a year's time oh her Guzzi 750 small block. I'll give you that the Texas court houses could make a coffee table photo book.
    1 point
  8. I have bought several pairs of motorcycle jeans and two pair of cargo pants from Brosh Tech in Tel Aviv, Israel. They specialize in hot weather gear and kevlar panels in their clothing. They made one pair 4" longer in the inseam for me. Here is a small block rider who rates a couple of their products.
    1 point
  9. Agreed. My treasured Olympia ventilated, and armored, one-piece is silver. About as reflective as it gets. Imagine that - docc thinks silver is a good idea . . .
    1 point
  10. Didja know that Aerostitch's "Rideable Days" graphic https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-rideable-days-poster.html says that there's more rideable days in Anchorage AK than Phoenix AZ. Pussies can't take a little heat !!
    1 point
  11. Now, must devise a fine-threaded rotating thumbwheel for the TPS so that you don't go from .100-50.75 in one little jiggle.
    1 point
  12. Phil is spot on, you'll find some misleading info, not only in the manual, but on my Sporti and HiCam bikes the wiring is different The best way is to check it as suggested or at least confirm wiring colours. I "think" on the Sport it's the outside wires, on the HiCam it's one of the outsdie wires and the middle, adjacent to each other. Loving @po18guy s setup very nice. Being the cheap and lazy sod I am I use a paper clip up the back of the plug to read the voltage
    1 point
  13. You've got all the "gen" from minds better than mine. I'd drop the pan and check the filter and gaskets as suggested then put a gauge on it that @Scud has kindly offered a loan of. One of the reasons I love Guzzi ownership, I can't think of more generous crowd willing to help strangers out with insight or special tools etc: etc: When checking the pressure after the pan's been re-enstated, I'd remove the plugs (to reduce bearing load and help it spin faster) and pull the injection relay to stop the fuel pump and the coils being energised. Turn it over on the starter, in several 4 or 5 second bursts. It'll take a 10-15 seconds or so for the supply to prime then you should see the pressure shoot up on the gauge to somewhere between 50-60psi.
    1 point
  14. From memory the manual for the sport is wrong when identifying the pins. There are 3 wires one constant 5v reference or "power wire" if you like from the ecu. 1 earth wire and 1 output wire back to the ecu to indicate throttle position. You need to measure the voltage between the earth and signal wire output from the tps to the ecu. The PF09 ( Daytona) and PF03 ( Sport) pin positions are different but he manual shows them as the same ( it covers both models). I "think" you need to measure between the middle and lower pins. The centre pin is the earth which is easy to check even with the power off. Once you confirm that then the 5 volt supply wire is easy also because it will be the same voltage no matter what you do with the throttle. The remaining wire must therefore be the signal wire. You know you have it right when you open the throttle and the voltage increases from 0/157mv to around 4.8 volts. If it starts at 5V on goes backwards when you open the throttle then you have the wires crossed. Ciao
    1 point
  15. I agree with checking the filter first, which is a known problem. Any more starts could be with un-lubricated surfaces. IMO - not worth starting again with a rocker-cover removed. In fact, you should not have to remove the rocker covers at all to solve this problem. I have an oil pressure gauge if you want to borrow it. To use it, you have to remove the sensor, then screw the gauge's hose into the block.
    1 point
  16. My advice is based on eliminating the known troublemaker before operating the engine any further since its had some running with the light on and has history. Yes I remember your oil pressure issue Lowrider, painful from memory. Ciao
    1 point
  17. Pete and Lowrider have of course made good suggestions but we are talking about oil pressure here and about the only thing that really causes this that's a possible disaster is the filter coming loose OR 2 gaskets fitted to the filter. Seeing it's a long running issue I'd drop the oil and open the access hole and remove the filter and check if it's got 2 gaskets fitted. Even if it's loose when you check it still remove it as it's likely it's loose because of a double gasket scenario. Once you have eliminated the worrying aspect then just change out the switch which in all honesty is the most likely culprit. BTW the oil cooler is thermostatically controlled so if you were on a short ride in cold weather it could still possibly be coolish because the thermostat hasn't allowed full oil flow. Ciao
    1 point
  18. The oil pressure switch lives on the front left of the block adjacent to the fitting that the two hoses that go to the heads comes off. The switch is a proprietary part the important thing is that it have the correct thread which from memory is a 12 x 1.5 mm, anyway, it's a coarse thread. If replacing the switch doesn't fix the problem then the chances are the filter has come loose. Drop the sump and have a look. If you don't have the correct cap wrench and try to tighten the filter 'By Hand' through the manhole it won't be tight enough and will come loose.
    1 point
  19. And that's Precisely how the universe and life operates. Einstein's theory of relativity or as he himself explained it for mere mortals " “Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute, and it seems like an hour. Sit with a pretty girl for an hour, and it seems like a minute. That's relativity.” OR, at 67, 10 minutes cleaning header pipes seems to take a day but at 37 it's done in the blink of an eye. That my friends is relativity. Ciao
    1 point
  20. Anyone in New Joysey or the NYC metro area knows heat and humidity. I was there when it was 96F and 95% - clearly not the worst. Still, almost had to be surgically removed from a vinyl sofa. And I was 26 then. It would prove fatal today.
    0 points
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