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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/02/2021 in all areas
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I am proud to present these new dept gauges - produced by our Norwegian member Tom Christiansen. He and me has discussed the best method of deciding which shim thickness should be used for our timing sensor. As the picture shows - I have found a 3/8" bolt and a nut - which should give me a good dept figure. But I was not fully satisfied with this simple tool. Tom produced some better tools - which ha can sell to our member friends. The timing sensor needs about 0,5 - 0,8mm clearence to the timing wheel. I have measured one of my naked sensors to be about 29,6mm lenght (without any shims). So first find the exact dept. Then reduce this number by let say 0,6mm. Then reduce this result by the lenght of your naked sensor. The result should give you the shim thickness. Shims are produced in 3 thicknesses. 0,3 / 0,5 and 0,8mm. Use a correct material for the O-ring that can withstand oil. These first 7 gauges will be presented to the Norwegian autumn club meeting, for about 40USD / 40Euro / 400NOK each. If the V11 forum members are interested -. then I hope Tom will produce some more for sale during the comming autumn and winter. Rolf6 points
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Metric is a clearly superior system. In the US, we had a chance to switch back in the late 70s or early 80s if I recall. But we blew it. I've got plenty of 10mm wrenches and sockets. They're in caddies by ascending size. The caddies never go back in the drawer with an empty space. And as aside... My 1997 F250 was such a PITA to work on. It was half Metric and half SAE. So I'd need to grab two sets of wrenches and two sets of sockets for every little task. And another cool thing about metric... you can go 200 km/h on a V11, but you cannot go 200 mph. Obviously, metric is faster.5 points
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Tioga Pass... 9,943' elevation at the West entrance to Yosemite on Hwy 120, on street-oriented tires. Then swapped wheels for some fun single-track, which was nice and damp from the recent rain. Having two complete wheel-sets, one with aggressive knobbies, the other with TKC80s, makes this by far the most versatile motorcycle I've ever had.3 points
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Also, be aware that your early Sport's front Relay #1 has excessive amperage through the weak NC contact. Use a High Current relay (OMRON G8HE Form C) in that position. Otherwise you are pushing close to 15 amps through a weak 10 amp NC contact. Take the "Livin' Easy Test" for your Relay #1:3 points
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When it comes to the red frame V11’s, the Greenies always seem to get the attention. What about the “Silveries”. Rarer than the Greenies, but classy & subtlety understated in their traditional silver finish. I don’t think they are drab, they have a classic cafe racer look, and the color really suits the V112 points
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Stein Dinse has them,, but Easily made home in an afternoon. IPA time Cheers Tom.2 points
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The Greenie’s no quicker / better to ride than the other short framed V11’s but I cannot think of a cooler looking motorcycle, it oozes class I’ve also got an early silver V11; it got me thinking, I see a few Greenies around, the occasional silver one - they seem to be rarer, but cannot remember the last time I saw a black short (red) framed V11. The black ones must be the rarest2 points
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Yep. That ground travels back through the entire loom to a ring terminal on the battery. Make certain your battery terminals are clean, tight and treated with some kind of magic like Caig DeOxit Gold®.2 points
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Me?...No I'm all Scura'd up...I Just finished mine ...but if someone thinks they might be seriously interested in it I would go look at it for them and send some pictures and an honest opinion! Its only a couple miles from me.2 points
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I Don,t know the guy or the bike but this came up this morning. They don't seem to come up often. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/d/berkeley-2002-moto-guzzi-v11-scura/7358777731.html1 point
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I can honestly say I cannot ever recall seeing a real live black V11, or even an advert for one in recent years, it would be interesting to see the actual production nos1 point
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The green is beautiful, and all three colors are so well suited to the bike I could not decide which to pursue while I looked for one. I still scour the adverts as I always have and though not as many come up these days, it seemed in the past there were always more green for sale, closely followed by silver, and hardly any in black. I don't know if this reflects production numbers but I suspect it does. It seems clear that they planned for the green. The silver, which I'll bet is the base coat for the green, was a natural choice and in keeping with the sport heritage. Vivid black maybe was just a safe third choice. I'm glad such a nice black one popped up for sale so near me.1 point
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Japanese metric use 12 and 14 on their bolts and Euro use 13 and 15 on theirs . There are other #s for the other sizes , but I can't remember them . Fun Fact .1 point
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Looks like the digital window will fit in just over the chicken. I like 'em. Swap to white face for some (me) .. should be easy.1 point
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I was thinking that the gauges on the original LeMans would be a good inspiration for a custom design with Speedhut. The RPM x 100 gives an interesting symmetry with the speedo - especially if tach is 0-80 in increments of 10, and the speedo is 0-160 MPH in increments of 20. (example in the photo is km/h). I also like the key-lines that divide the faces in quadrants. Some changes would have to be made for the digital display on the Speedhut speedo, but other than that, what do y'all think of these?1 point
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Thank you, docc! That is very helpful info. I am glad to know that it is a direct path from headlight to battery ground.1 point
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I managed to get something from Brembo, but I had to log myself from within Italy to get to the motorcycle configurator; And as you can see, for your bike, they only sell the rotors. No brake pads, no caliper....1 point
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I got a new one for my Rosso Corsa from AF1 racing a few months ago...Brembo Gold Rear....GU30653001.. ( it says front on their site when you enter it but its the rear..and that is the correct number for a rear) It was only $104.00 dollars complete with new Brembo pads..and they usually have it in their USA warehouse..took about a week.1 point
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I spent my whole career working on US built aircraft, so all AF (plus a lot of years on Airbus, and Fokker come to think of it) and the metric system is by far and away the best. I can measure out 900mm OR 35 and 27/64ths", spare me. The only thing I still convert is 10ths and hundredths of a mm, thousandths of an inch seem more relevant to my brain for some reason. But I always do the calculation in my head, I'm not mad enough yet to use a calculator or anything. And who cares how much force a horse from 1824 could produce and the length of a mans foot from the same time. Ciao1 point
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Pretty sure 13V is fine normally the charging volts are in the region of 13.5 or higher, this is off the top of my head, but I would not be concerned about that in the least. Have you looked at the Odyssey charging thread yet...................it goes into more detail than you'd ever EVER want to know about all things Odyssey1 point
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Today I circumnavigated and summited the island of Maui on a Honda Africa Twin that I rented from Riders-Share.com. About 225 miles in total, including the famous "Road to Hana" and some less-travelled, twisty, one-lane, two-way roads on magnificent cliffs. Haleakala, the summit in the National Park, is over 10,000 feet elevation, While some of the road is at sea level - and by sea level, I men including wet pavement from wave spray. Some pics... At end of the ride, I checked my MPG: Mango Pineapple Guava Shave Ice. So I can report excellent MPG for this ride. I've been curious about the Honda Africa Twin for a long time. This was a DCT model. It was comfortable and I had a great day. But I don't think the DCT is for me. I'd like to try one with a manual transmission. While I applaud Honda for trying something new, I got really frustrated with the DCT. It would upshift automatically when I was trying to pass uphill... and upshift when I let off the gas to corner (meaning I was constantly either bogging the engine to exit, or hitting the manual downshift button with my left thumb. Sometimes it would downshift mid corner, which I found unsettling (especially in the dirt road sections). The DCT was kind of nice on straight and level, and small grades with easy curves - like a giant scooter. On the rough pavement and dirt, when I stood up, I kept doing "phantom shifts" with my left foot... but of course, there was no shifter. I suppose we will all have to get used to stuff like this as we move toward electric motorcycles. But I still like manual shifting. I think it's part of the fun of riding.1 point
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Whilst of limited interest to most here I thought I'd gauge whether anybody would be interested in a documentary of a single spark 1400 Nuovo Hi-Cam build? I've just acquired a 'Repairable write off' Griso that I'm going to use as a test platform for final development, (I've already built two 1400 single sparkers.). I'm not willing to have my old warhorse off the road while playing silly-buggers with the motor so the idea is I do the build, iron out any problems, then fling the final product in the 'Green Horror'. This will be my swansong. I hope to be retired within a year.1 point
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Not really? In what way complex? The primary timing system is basically the same as the early loop frame engines, a train of three gears. Secondary system by chains up the rear of the cylinders, a lot neater and simpler than the 'Old' Hi Cam system with the huge, cooling air flow blocking, belt housing with a complex vernier system for the cams, up the front of the cylinders. Third gear, below the crank, drives the oil pumps. One for lubrication, one for cooling. The cooling circuit doesn't have a thermostat for the oil cooler though meaning that these engines run stupidly cool most of the time.1 point
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Well, it's funny, every time I think, "Ooh, there's a nice V7 Loop Frame! But I'd like another gear. Maybe a bump in the displacement. Disc brakes. More horsepower. A better gearbox. A more rigid frame. Bigger brakes. Fuel injection. Modern wheel sizes. Better suspension. Clip-ons. Rear-sets. Better lighting " . . . I always start with an early loop and end up right back where I am!1 point
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Griso was made in three sizes. 850, 1100 and 1200. The first two used versions of the venerable two valve per cylinder design, the 1200 used a four valve per cylinder design and a Hi-cam in each head driven by chains from an idler shaft running in place of the camshaft on earlier motors. It is possible, although not easy, to enbiggen the 1200 to 1400 using 1400 pistons from the Cali 1400. It's far from a simple 'Drop in' conversion though. I've built two now. Approaching it from different ways both times. This time I'm going about it yet another way. The biggest issue being differences in the galleries and drains for the cooling oil supply as the 1200 and 1400 motors are completely different in this regard. From 2008 the old 2V motor was phased out and the CARC series bikes all went to the 1200-8V which besides the Griso was used in the Norge, Stelvio and 1200 Sport platforms. Sadly the Piaggio bean counters insisted that the original 8V should use flat tappets. This was a huge mistake as the system failed miserably, ruining the reputation of what is in fact a fine engine. It wasn't until 2013 after three botched attempts to get flat tappets to work that the change was made to the bulletproof roller tappet system then used until the series and engine was discontinued. It's my belief that the motor was originally designed with roller tappets and this penny pinching measure of attempting to use flats seriously undermined the credibility of what could of been a game changer for the Guzzi marque. Sadly, because of this the series never got the sales they deserved and Piaggio decided that Guzzi was not to try and produce interesting and novel bikes and should in future produce toys for hipsters and underpowered and unthreatening mid-weight ADV bikes with uninspiring 2 valve pushrod engines that have the charisma of a dry cow-pat and the performance envelope of a housebrick. Pity.1 point