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Ordered some 5-pin Ormon Form C relays so I'll update them when I get it and do a few local test rides to shake her down,but I least I know where to look if I don't hear fuel pump click...thanks!

I remain surprised at the number of odd-sized and oddly-designed fasteners I encounter. I realize that there is a reason for each of them, but it has been said that we cannot avoid using reason - we can only avoid using it well. The Japanese are known for sizing the fastener to the task, while the Germans are known to employ the fewest sizes so as to simplify design, supply and manufacture. In the north of Italy, it seems that the fasteners are produced in accordance with a national law which mandates that 7, 9 and 11mm fastener companies are kept in production. I think it was a post-WWII reconstruction thing. Or not.

So I don't know if your continuity check on the yellow wire was a mistake or that wire really was grounded. If it was/is grounded, you'll have blown fuse 6 and won't have instrument lights, tail light or number plate in addition to the city light I asked about the instrument lighting as it's tied in directly to the same circuit as the city light. Might be worth checking Fuse 6 and also if you have a tail light......................just a thought

Solid wire like that has no place on a motorcycle and please use lugs On a high milage bike you may find the wires are starting to break around the headstock, if you can separator them reef on each wire one at a time, the broken ones will stretch and break. You can run a short wire from the headlight and ground it to the frame or an engine bolt to bypass the long black wire back to the battery, dont pass any current through the steering bearings.

There you go. Then we gets-us some Moto Goozies and try to play in 9/11 time . . .

I'm witnessing mass cabin fever.

Yes, black is ground. Isn't yellow the power to the 4 watt "city light"? With the bulb in place, a continuity test can show continuity to ground through the bulb filament, if I am not mistaken. Have you serviced the battery's main grounding point on the right rear of the gearbox? This is a critical point to avoid harness damage . . .

The green is beautiful, and all three colors are so well suited to the bike I could not decide which to pursue while I looked for one. I still scour the adverts as I always have and though not as many come up these days, it seemed in the past there were always more green for sale, closely followed by silver, and hardly any in black. I don't know if this reflects production numbers but I suspect it does. It seems clear that they planned for the green. The silver, which I'll bet is the base coat for the green, was a natural choice and in keeping with the sport heritage. Vivid black maybe was just a safe third choice. I'm glad such a nice black one popped up for sale so near me.

Yeah as docc said, you'd normally use the drain plug anyway before trying to remove that cover. If you just removed the filter cover with the sump full of oil unless you had a big catch can underneath it'd get very very messy................no don't ask me how I know. Just my opinion but I wouldn't try to undo that plate anyway, perhaps under normal servicing yes, but you need to drop the sump and check the gaskets anyway. If that access plate is like the ones on the HiCams and Sportis be careful, it's on a pretty fine thread and it's stupidly easy to damage it. Not so much when removing but when putting it back onto the sump.

No instruments lights, they went out when all of these lighting issues began. Well I know better now about solid core wire and steering bearing. It was a quick fix with what was on hand. I’ll get some stranded wire on my way home and redo. Thanks, appreciate your input and advice!

Oh for goodness sake cut the guy some slack. The OP freely admits he's has some difficulty with electrics, which is far from uncommon. While I agree with the sentiments that solid wire isn't a good idea, he needs to have the bike running to get to work so probably grabbed what he had available and jury rigged a fix. If I was in that position and needed a "bodge" until I could address the issue properly I would have, most likely, done the same. The only difference being I'd have made a loop by bending the solid wire end around and possibly whacked it with a hammer to flatten it to get better continuity. I'd have also run it onto the engine or frame, relying on current passing through the headstock bearings can be hit and miss. I agree with @docc yellow is the city light positive, looking at the wiring diagram, I'm surprised that fuse 6 didn't blow when the lights were turned on as a positive supply is then being grounded. Do you have instrument lights on the speedo and tacho? Black is the ground as already confirmed. If your checking continuity the yellow would show resistance as it has to pass through the bulb (around 36 Ohms, if my shocking arithmetic is correct)

I need to sit down with a beer to consider the wisdom shown in this thread. But should I measure the beer in milliliters, pints, fluid ounces, or British standard bathtubs? (I just made that last one up). The V11 fuel tank holds about 1/64 BSBs.

Yeah, tire and inner tube sizes are weird. Somehow most of the world got stuck with inches for wheel diameters - then went ahead with metric for width. Some truck tires in the US are all inches, a 35x12.50R15 is a 35 inch (0.9 meter) tall tire that is 12 1/2 inches wide and fits a 15 inch rim. These don't specify the sidewall as a proportion, they give the total height of the tire. @PJPR01 You're gonna need more than 400 Kelvin to melt the sugar on your Creme Brûlée and get that nice crusty top.

When it comes to the red frame V11’s, the Greenies always seem to get the attention. What about the “Silveries”. Rarer than the Greenies, but classy & subtlety understated in their traditional silver finish. I don’t think they are drab, they have a classic cafe racer look, and the color really suits the V11

Okay, "Houston, we have a problem." The scooter is a 2004 V11 Sport Naked with about 2650 miles on the clock. I haven't changed the oil or done any other work recently. There have been a few instances in the past where after a short two to three mile run and stopping for a time, the oil light would not go off upon restart. I would let the engine run for ten seconds or so, then shut it down, wait a bit and then restart, at which point the light would go off. Today, however, the light refused to turn off upon restart. I ran the bike a few blocks at low speed (maybe a mistake), no bueno, light stayed on. I noted that while the cylinder heads, valve covers and engine case were warm, the oil cooler was dead cold, not typical. So I called AAA and got a tow home. First check at home for oil level indicated sufficient oil volume. Then a search here resulted in suggestions for either an oil pressure swith or a valve cover removal followed by a start to check for oil pressure (squirting oil). Having had the trauma of replacing a leaking valve cover gasket (much time and effort to scrape off the sticky remains of the old gasket without scratching the aluminum), I think I'd prefer the pressure switch check. So my dummy question is, where exactly is the pressure switch? A quick visual check indicated it's not a snake as it didn't bite me. If oil squirts, then I understand the replacement of the pressure switch is the answer (recommended source?). If no squirt, then time to drop the pan an check for a loose filter and metal shavings (please, no!). Thanks in advance for this info and any other helpful advice!

That is true. But I understood that a few on this forum where already planning to come to Italy. The link is for the documents to fill-in specifically for Corona and to go into Italy.

Simply drain the oil through the lowest point on the back of the sump as if you were changing the oil. Lay down a sheet of cardboard for the few drips that remain. To remove the filter access plate, you can fashion a tool using one of your 27 mm axle nuts.

In music, they say an "interval" is the distance between two notes. The smallest interval in Western music is the half step, the largest the whole step. Here is Texas, we prefer to use the "two steps".

Here's my 6 cents; In your narrative, you report the issue was initially intermittent. The light would not always go off after a restart. The work around was to shut down, and restart after a cool down. The analysis would be the pressure switch is the culprit. If the oil flow path was the root cause, it would not have been intermittent. A failure of the oil pump, or a short path circulation created by a non sealing component would have been permanent once established. I may be wrong, but it reads this way. A malfunctioning pressure switch could fail the way you described.

FWIW, I’m a drummer. Not, btw, a sissified percussionist. 😄 Bill

Shim / gasket sensor comes in more than 3 dimensions: 0,3mm - 0172270000 0,4mm - 0172270100 0,5mm - 2972276000 I have no idea why this size has another article number, but it looks to be identical with the others. 0,6mm - 0172270200 0,8mm - 0172270300 1,0mm - 0172270400 1,5mm - 0172270500 O-ring: - 9070614100 dimension ø15x2 I must correct my information about the diameter of the sensor well. The sensor diameter is just a little smaller than Ø15mm. The bolt size I used was not 3/8" - it was 9/16" which is close to Ø14mm. I will ask Tom to increase the gauge piston size from about Ø10 to about Ø14. This to ensure that the bottom of the piston touches the teeths of the cam wheel in a better way.

Postponed until 2022 I hear. Ciao

Major and minor keys Flats and sharps Adaggios and crescendos and Piano piano I used to find playing 6/8 time much harder than 3/4…who knows why, mathematically they are identical! and scales…so many scales to practice over and over! Years of playing French horn in my youth….ah the torture sessions in Orchestra and Band with the conductor…good times!! Who was it who said something to the effect of “A good blues player is not one who knows which notes to play, it’s someone who knows which notes not to play!”

Oh, wait, music is way worse than thread pitch and shoe sizes. Sure: base 8 for octaves. Then there is "time" - 4:4. 3:4? 5:7? Change-ups? I remember another musician saying, "It's just A-B-C-D-E-F-G" Yeah, yeah. But NEVER in that order. And there is the the >time signature< and the change-ups and the keys, and chord progressions. No wonder the drummer sometimes scowls at me.

Winner!! 😅😅

ooooh, I am so busted reaching for too many wrenches. And throttles. And levers. And not enough strings. It occurred to me that I play some "eight to the bar" blues, but thought that ended up being Base 12. No wonder the drummer scowls at me sometimes . . .

Docc - I seem to recall you being a bass player. Isn't musical notation in base 8? An octave is 8 steps, right?

The mystery is revealed! The V11 fuel tank is in Base 8!

All the airhead bikes are a "safe" motorcycle for the old fart's club . Good looking ,reliable , a good membership network . Just like this one , it is divided between professionals and non-professionals . It would be a nice bike to have .

Good advice !

I do love mixing the fractional with the metric along with the ephemeral . . . > about 1/4 of a ml < Temperature is another wildcard. My chemist son specifies that coffee must be extracted from the beans in Celsius degrees (196ºC), yet is to be consumed in degrees Fahrenheit (165ºF). And volumetric measure? A "fifth" is not 1/5 of anything! And while "1 cup" = ~ 200 ml, I still can't think of anything in Base 8 . . . Even "8-Ball" (the pool table game) is in Base 7 + 1 (seven stripes, seven solids + the Eight Ball).

No it probably wont be arcing (unless your doing something very dodgy) it's just fiddly enough without worrying about spiked connections creating variability or coming unspiked etc. If I was on a trip and needed to do it on the side of the road or something I'd do it but it wouldn't be my first choice in the way I approached it.

Fun thread!! I’m going to drink 1035 milliliters of Fat Tire beer, to accompany a 25.4 millimeter brisket meatball, followed off by a 3 millimeter crust on my creme brûlée, coming out of the oven at 400 Kelvin after 425 hexaseconds while sitting in my hexagonally shaped bar chair just 0.75 meters above the ground. Please translate all of the above back to base 8 please and report results! 😅😅

I'd love to know the total for all the short ( red ) frames! But it would be interesting to see the breakdown of the colours too. Cheers Guzzler

HMB also has some: https://hmb-guzzi.de/Spacer-ignition-sensor

Perhaps it is the color "the V11 was drawn from" by Luciano Marabese .

The Greenie’s no quicker / better to ride than the other short framed V11’s but I cannot think of a cooler looking motorcycle, it oozes class I’ve also got an early silver V11; it got me thinking, I see a few Greenies around, the occasional silver one - they seem to be rarer, but cannot remember the last time I saw a black short (red) framed V11. The black ones must be the rarest

Tech Spec will make them for you and ship fast, no problem. I am still running with mine on the tank, and they work great. However, they will rub off and stain your pants. If you ride with light colored pants and grip the tank you may end up with stains that are hard to get out. Case in point:

Tioga Pass... 9,943' elevation at the West entrance to Yosemite on Hwy 120, on street-oriented tires. Then swapped wheels for some fun single-track, which was nice and damp from the recent rain. Having two complete wheel-sets, one with aggressive knobbies, the other with TKC80s, makes this by far the most versatile motorcycle I've ever had.

Yep. Until now. Be aware you are running a 20 amp (and questionably rated) in a 22.5 amp circuit. 20 amp relays run really hot there (which will affect the connections adversely). Source some OMRON G8HE (35 amp, and honestly rated). Form A/ "1A7T" (4-pin) will work in all V11 positions except the Start Relay, front/#1. Seems onlinecomponents still has the Form A G8HE (High Current 4-pin). Otherwise, members are currently sourcing the 5-pin (Form C) through ebay. ---> OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12

It appears the individual July/August 2018 issue that contains this article can be backordered individually without a subscription. For those not familiar, Motorcycle Classics is very well produced, expertly authored, and features spectacular photography.

That is a pearl of wisdom, thank-you very much.

If I understand correctly, every time the ECU starts our V11 the enrichening cycle runs for some specified number of RPM, even if the motor is actually up to operating temperature. (?)

I've moved the Neutral Switch mess I've made off this thread to Tech Topics. Thanks for helping me figure out what happened! [edit/July 31, 2021: one of the circlips failed to stay in its groove and allowed the cam wheel to shift inboard where it did not contact the neutral switch.]

Just to add a voice, I get all the way forward on the bike when I want a bit more speed and performance in the corners. I run 34psi front and 38 rear, I might try some softer front pressures based on comments above. In California, where the freeways have rain grooves, you can really feel the difference with and without a damper. I had an airhead BMW that would wobble like mad on those grooves, and the damper was adjustable while riding - it would instantly stabilize the bike. The V11 has better manners without the damper, so I keep mine close to the loosest setting.

Unlike others here, I like airheads. Easy to fix, reliable, good parts supply and, god help me, I like the looks of them. I have no illusions- they handle terribly and do attract the human equivalent of undescended testicles. And those humans do tend to overvalue the bikes when they are in a shit state. $1500 is too much.

The shock mount bolt is 12.9 hardness. The swingarm lock nuts are 30mm (I see that I had to add a 30mm socket to my toolset).