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@Slivsgaard (Claus!) It is just the beginning . . .

The 85TT was prepared by Gianfranco e Vittoriano Guareschi, historic Moto Guzzi custom shop in Parma. Placed at the 9th and 8th place against the usual Yamaha and KTM. It looks nice!

I'm not sure if this motor is actually black, but shows if your donk is big enough it's gonna draw the eye . . . (Another absolutely great image of a (very special) "V11": LuckyPhil's V10 Sport)

Behold! A turd that has been rolled in glitter!

Ron.. I must have had that preselector apart and back together 100 times when I was developing the unbreakable pawl spring. (I see Phil just posted) *I don't remember* but if you run it through it's travel up and down shifting, it should be obvious I would think.

OK I spent some more time with it last night and see what you're talking about - I thought the original post was suggesting polishing the wide flat sides of the pawl arm (which ideally don't ride against anything, hence my "Why do this?" question) but now I realize the filing/polishing is meant for the narrow surface on/around the 'hooks' that mate with the pins in the upper wheel and the intent is for it to slip over those pins easily. I filed and polished that surface. The pawl arm is pretty straight and I don't want to risk making it worse so I'll pay attention to where its riding on reassembly and bend/straighten accordingly if needed. I also noticed the roller wheel that rides in the detents on the upper gear wasn't riding anywhere near the middle of the detents so I bent that and its now riding like it should. Chuck replied and said there's no more LuckyPhil shift extenders available. Still haven't heard from Scud on the spring, hopefully he has one as this is ready to go back together once my lightweight Redline gear oil shows up and I want to see if its fixed! I checked and didn't see any evidence of the shift pedal/linkage hanging up on the frame plate or anywhere else so that wasn't causing my problems. Hopefully my last question - setting the clearance for the return limit eccentric adjuster - there's raised areas on the pawl arm that face that pin (red arrows in pic pointing at them). Am I setting the clearance between these areas and the pin at .030", or is that the measurement from the flat part of the pawl arm (between the arrows) and the pin? As always, thanks for the help!

All those Guzzis and a 1964 Galaxie as well! 390, 406 or 427 perhaps? I thought the Swedes had bought all of those.

Hi guys thank you for your time. I met up with my friend who has a dyno and him being a world class tuner ,we made plans for removal of the PC lll. At the moment I am waiting for the cables from Lonelec so communication can be established to the titan ecu and surgery will commence. I will try to have before and after charts done for reference, And keep you in the loop ( pun intended). It still has an occasional hiccup around 2500-2800 rpm… but it’s manageable . I’m going on my planned trip next week….3500 km in 7 days with a lot of carving in the alps/Dolomites and highway transport to and from. Afterwards we will have a go at tuning on the dyno, as we were unable to find time before. Looking forward to sharing the results with all of you. br. Claus

So odd, to me that all the foot and hand levers are all intact. My levers break off if I fart or otherwise hiccup abruptly.

yes, odd crash. Looks like it flipped to me. frame is toast. I'll bet some goodies remain

my first v11 had the titanium kit racing ECU with the PC. it ran beautifully. My current one is bone stock. also runs beautifully (well, it recently had some issues.. but not with the ECU)... go figure. it was some years apart between the two but I can't tell any difference.

@swooshdave did some cool things with this a few years back. Even gave a Greenie sport at one point!

In your image, it appears to me that the assembly is simply resting on the shifter shaft that goes through the plate seal on the right of your image pressing that side of the pawl mechanism inward. Otherwise, the pawl arm could be bowed that much (bent) from its stamping. The pawl arm pulls and pushes pins on the upper cam wheel (on the left in your image) to change gears. That surface can be quite scored from tooling marks and benefit from a good polishing. Also, they tend to be warped from stamping and benefit from straightening (flattening).

Those are SpeedHut instruments. Details of my design and installation start on Page 8 of this thread:

Worth getting that pawl arm on the bench for a straighten and polish as Lucky Phil details on Post#1. I don't think you can go wrong with any of those RedLine ShockProof products. Personally, I've always uesd the blue Lightweight in my gearbox, now also in my reardrive (having stopped using the red Heavy altogether).

I totally missed this is about the illumination, not the warning indicator lights. Sorry for that drift, @Grim!

BREMBO PARTS This place has good prices on some Brembo parts like master cylinders and calipers..ships fast and seems like a nice guy on the phone Many of the earlier Ducati's like the 748/996/Monsters use the same stuff as the V-11's https://store.bevelheaven.com/index.php?p=home

Summary: Sudden and intermittent loss of throttle: electricity still on, but all combustion seemingly cutting out. 1. Did this months ago and I limped home, pausing to let it cool then going a short distance. It started to "Huff" when given gas... revving to 4k and then falling off then up and falling again. ruh... ruh.... ruh... ruh. I changed the relays and it then seemed completely fixed. (but it also got cooler and I was not riding far.. ) 2. I took it on its first extended ride and about 5 hours into the ride, as I came off the coast into the inland heat, it started to cut out again on the freeway. first just once, then progressively getting worse until I limped into Eureka. sounding and acting like it had months before. After that it would maybe start, maybe not, and only run for 1/4 mile.. or less. I fiddled with a ton of stuff- but nothing roadside would fix it. at least all my connectors got a good greasing. Ended up replacing the Phase sensor: A fairly generic sensor for the timing. NOTE: after I did this it seemingly ran fine- but I did not take it on a 200 mile ride to find out. Since I was working on it, I also replaced the fuel pump and petcock with a manual version. Subsequently I went on a ride and it had some bogging down issues at throttle- but turns out I was an idiot and did not tighten down the return fuel line. that done- all seems good! But not done the 5 hour test yet! that will be later in the summer or fall. thanks for all the help -

You'll need to bead blast all the paint off and dry the tank out then preferable line the inside. The bead blasting leaves a really good finish for paint to adhere to but there are plastic primers for the task. Every car bumper is plastic these days. Its a pointless exercise patching a tank on a motorcycle as by the time you prep the tank for blending you've painted most of it anyway. Personally I can't see a good painter having an issue matching the paint. I've got a belly pan and several side covers that have been re painted and they are all a very good match. Ciao

Hello Simone, There are some BIN files available for the 15M at https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/ If you cannot download them, send me a personal message, and I will email them to you. I can't find a 15RC BIN, but there are people who may help. See discussions: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16359-california-vintage/page/6/&tab=comments#elControls_251108_menu https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22035-ecu-limited-by-stock-o2/ DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC and with Meinolf's BIN, he is very happy with the results. This disabled the lambda sensor. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19652-v11-ecu-15rc-vs-15m/ Happy 2021, Marty.

Those look great. I really like the kph inner ring on the speedo with the red 100. And it must be refreshing to have two orange needles.