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Welcome to the nanny world. Ciao

Phil, the same thing has been happening at Pike's Peak. Originally the public road was dirt and has been gradually paved. In the old days when the Unser's ruled there, the cars were Champ Dirt cars that were modified to turn left and right (rather than just left). There was talk that entire race might be cancelled once the place was paved. Over the years it's largely been a specialized race with amateurs and big corporations going at it at the same time. The Champ Cars ran there last in '68 (Bobby Unser won). BTW "Uncle Bobby" was a helluva road racer and even raced BRM F1, he also won Indy three time. I saw Rod Millen win there in a wild contraption that had a Toyota carbon fiber "Pick Up" body (the bed was a huge wing/ground effects thing) that was built on a March Indycar chassis converted to 4WD with a 2.0 liter turbo Toyota engine pushing out 1000hp. The race has been a tourist draw and the local town of Manitou Springs gets a lot of support from the competitors, spectators and local Chamber volunteer types. There's no major league sanctioning body but instead a group organized by the competitors, many of them local. So I guess I'm saying the thing has been hanging by a thread since 1968.

I saw that on the link you provided. It's oddly beautiful, I'd feel bad burying this object inside the little alternator house. I'll print that out and show it to the local guy, sure he's seen a lot of hardware in his day, I'm thinking this one will melt his jaded heart.

No clue what a good AC current reading would be, it does sound low though. Anyway @docc to the rescue If it was me I'd visually inspect it and check the AC volts as these are pretty easy to do before pulling it apart. Lot's of luck and I do hope it's not Donald Ducked.

Here ya go, @Purloined:

Right now, I'm listening to this. No! Not Jay Leno - the Alfa.

Thanks all for trying to reach me. The bike will "eventually" be up for sale. The "eventually" is the fact that it has been sitting at the Shop for close to 4 months waiting on brake parts, (disc and caliper and pads) for the rear, as the supply chain for these is basically non-existent, the pads and caliper are in, but no disc. I had planned to ride one last season and then sell her. As of right now I have no idea when my V11 will be done as the parts distributor has no answer on the disc for the shop. Every day it's the same story. BTW, I am in Salem, NH. David

Ah, yes. Such easily overlooked things as an overzealous application of insulation to the battery cables. This one was actually OK, but just barely. I cleaned the extra bit away, gave it a bit of a brush and DeoxIt'ed the heck out of it.

When you're ready David Looks like I've lost my bet then Trouble shooting electrics, looks horible at first, way too many wires on the bike and lines on the diagram. As you get to grips with how it works though it becomes (a little) clearer. The downside is that some of Guzzi's wiring philosophy is, at times, a tad bizzare (trying to avoid 4 letter expletives here). The easiest way I can think of to check the voltage at the ignition switch is to undo the 4 way AMP connector local to it and use something like a thin paper clip or a needle down the hole in the plug where the red wire goes into, on the loom side. Then put your pos probe onto said needle/paper clip. You should see 12Volts. It will probably not be so easy to measure the volts on the outgoing wires from the ignition switch. You could check resistance across the switch, but sticking with volts for now. Connect the plug together, switch ON the ignition switch and check the voltage at fuses 6 & 7, you should be seeing 12 Volts. Next is to locate the Headlight Relay. @docc as you know these machines any chance of a listing of which relay is which, physically on the bike because I'm clueless here? Once you've found it remove the relay and check the voltage where the pink/blue wire goes into the relay socket (the ignition switch is still ON right?). It will be on the socket where either pin 1 or pin 2 plug into. Below is a diagram showing the pins on the relay, the V11 uses the 5 Pin Micro Relay. If you're not sure which wire is which it doesn't matter one of the pins (either pin1 or pin2) should read 12 Volts and the other 0 Volts When you've had time to have a go at it come back with some more info and we can see if any of us can up with more ideas on where to go next John

I think I said the price was $6k. It's in Minnesota and the V7 in background is an 850t tarted up as a V7 Sport. he wanted something like $8k for that, I thought way too high. Ive kind of lost track of the bikes and guy, maybe can find out did they ever sell if your really interested at $6,000 send me a pm

That's too bad (that it is out of stock). This is my third stator and I am suitably impressed with their improvements. Perhaps if your rebuilders would care to see that image of that heat shielding and improved strain relief and apply their own version . . .

Yes, Weegie, def volts were measured, not amps as I earlier stated. As far as I can tell, the yellow connections on the stator are intact, certainly not obviously detached. I spoke with a local shop that rebuilds alternators and took some pix of the unit to show to him, I'm a little confused as to what is possible as regards rebuilding, I think he said he would only need the stator. This will doubtless be contradicted tomorrow and I will be back here tomorrow bellyaching like I do. I looked at the ElectroSport stator that docc linked; which is out of stock since the last one they had is now likely residing in Tennessee.

I can also vouch for BevelHeaven. I ordered some fasteners from them (very impossible to source), and they make new ones. Not pricey, when you NEED the parts to stay on the road. Love them.

Gold rear disc p# GU03635700 , black rear disc p# GU01635700, if this helps. https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Moto_Guzzi&T=V 11&Y=2000&L=MG-V11_1&O=Rear wheel&F=MG-V11_1_19&L2=MG-V11_1_19

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132458341364?epid=1380999889&hash=item1ed721e3f4:g:XoUAAOSwxZthCsbM https://www.ebay.com/itm/362006038250?epid=2112366411&hash=item54493dc6ea:g:Lk8AAOSw6DtYWM6b Owning two Ducati 900SSs, and a Daytona 1200, I know finding OEM parts is a struggle in patience, but I think the above will fit your V11, and it's a proper BREMBO disc. Let me know how you make out, David. Thank you again, -Tony

I know you have a life to live, David, I'm in Nashua. Let me know if/when it is rideable. I'm in Nashua. I want the MAGNI kit included if you sell to me. I'm 99% sure your have the V11 I've been after. Thank you for your time my friend. -Tony

So, yes, the stator can be changed in situ. Certainly easier on a lift. It is common that those wires get strained removing and replacing the alternator cover to turn the motor for valve adjustments. Plus, those wires heat harden where they solder in. The improved stator looks well designed.

Certainly doesn't sound very promising, I'm curious about the 3.5-4.5 readings what was that Amps? Best way to check the Alternator is to disconnect the 2 yellow wires and put a meter on them. Set the meter for AC Volts range 60 or greater and rev the engine to 3k, you should see 40 Volts AC and 15 Volts AC at 1k or so if it's good. I prefer to run it up to 3k as you're not flogging the engine to death mechanically unloaded but have the revs high enough to ensure the Alternator should be giving you an output Of course when you disconnect the the Alternator you're running on battery only so top up the battery on a charger afterwards

How about this Brembo supplier @KINDOY2 linked:

Motorbikes have been banned of Pikes Peak before. From 1920 until 1953; from 1956 until 1970; from 1977 until 1979; from 1983 until 1990 following Bill Gross' passing away.

I said this on my first post but going to ask the obvious again. All the connections are on the battery positive and they are clean? The same goes for the negative connection at the battery make sure it's clean. I usually clean them up with some Emery cloth, tighten and apply Vaseline/petroleum jelly Make sure to also check the where the negative battery cable is connected to the frame/engine. Remove that connection and give it a good clean, tighten it all back up and more Vaseline/petroleum jelly. If the connection from the battery negative to the frame/engine is poor then you're going nowhere.

Thank you, fotoguzzi.

Hi John, thank you for your reply and the additional testing advice - that is really appreciated. I realise I’m on a steep learning curve here. i’ll follow your instructions and do some testing of the voltage at the weekend. I had thought it maybe was the ignition switch and had bought a replacement and connected it up - but didn’t help in any way… I’ll get back to you once I have more info Thanks again David

Nice work!

BREMBO PARTS This place has good prices on some Brembo parts like master cylinders and calipers..ships fast and seems like a nice guy on the phone Many of the earlier Ducati's like the 748/996/Monsters use the same stuff as the V-11's https://store.bevelheaven.com/index.php?p=home

Just because.

https://advrider.com/pikes-peak-bans-motorcycles-from-competition/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=editorial&utm_content=08_17_2021